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Fixing the dihedral on the Revell Lancaster


Harry_the_Spider

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Is it easily done?

 

I assume that you split and the lower wing and add a packer then bend the upper wing to suit, with a small cut on the upper leading edge. Then apply a packer to the outside edge of the outer engines to bring them back to the vertical. 

 

It sounds easy when typing it, but in reality am I setting myself up for a fall? 

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The late Ted Taylor did an online article on building this kit with his solution to the problem of the Revell Lancaster dihedral. There are other problems with this kit, the wheels and guns being not what would be expected in this day and age. Link below 

http://tedtaylor.hobbyvista.com/132-revell-lancaster/page-132.html

Edited by Mr T
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Smply cut external parts of wings and after doing reinforcement of joint then glued it with desired dihedral. If you base on elastic properties as you suggest you have to prevent flattering of profile.

The second problem is, that external engines should be cut out and set again vertically, what is not very difficult in fact using sharp knife.

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14 minutes ago, woody37 said:

Yes, just needs the lower wing slicing...

 

 

You'll need to cut into the leading edge of the upper wing as well, otherwise bending the wing up will distort the shape.

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On 2/21/2020 at 10:14 PM, VMA131Marine said:

You'll need to cut into the leading edge of the upper wing as well, otherwise bending the wing up will distort the shape.

I don’t think I did that but what your saying sounds right

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2 hours ago, woody37 said:

I don’t think I did that but what your saying sounds right

Maybe a little but there is a lot of  general give in the plastic, so no need to do it over any great distance on the top surface for the relatively small angles at stake. 

 

Of course the geometrically 'pure' method, and what you'd have to do if it were cast metal rather than moulded plastic, is take the whole outer wing off, re-face the dihedral break at the revised angle, and re-attach the outer wing with some kind of carry-through spar to make it all robust.

 

But given the amount of elasticity in the Revell wing, in practice it works just fine limiting the cut to the lower surface and packing the cut out a bit, as you (Woody) and many others have demonstrated.

 

Harry: Make the cut, insert your wedge, see how it fits. If you need to cut a little further you'll be able to tell. Take it step by step and adjust as you go, don;t make the cut any more profound than it really needs to be. 

Edited by Work In Progress
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