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Legendary Blackbird - Part 2: M-21 Mothersip with D-21 Tagboard (Italeri Conversion)


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I was really hoping that I can start to paint both A-12 and M-21. But after spending a lot of effort to correct the aircraft shape it wouldn't be nice to leave the afterburner area as is...

 

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Therefore I decided to improve this area. To add afterburner can I have taken 1:48 F-16 PW resin engine parts which I made copies for my ongoing Viper projects.

 

First I removed afterburner spray rings:

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Done:

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When all the parts assembled together it looks better than before:

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I haven't decided yet whether I should keep the afterburner spray rings as is or cut from plastic card to make the turbine blades visible...

 

Serkan

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Glad to see what you have done to the exhaust. With your attention to detail l am sure that it is within your capabilities to improve the afterburner rings.

 

Regards

Robert

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22 hours ago, Robert said:

Glad to see what you have done to the exhaust. With your attention to detail l am sure that it is within your capabilities to improve the afterburner rings.

 

Regards

Robert

You convinced me Robert 😁

Here is my afterburner assembly drawing:

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Using plotter/cutter I scored the lines on styrene sheet:

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It was not easy to score the lines on 0.5mm thick styrene sheet even after three passes:

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Next step is to assemble the parts together and see if it worths all these efforts. 🤔

 

Serkan

Edited by Serkan Sen
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Here is my afterburner ring scratch build...

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The shining sun is the jig to align eight afterburner ring brackets (actually sixteen but other eight is not so much visible)

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First the brackets were placed and then the rings:

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Then the jig was removed. Here is the afterburner rings placed on turbine exit:

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Comparison of original versus scratch built afterburner rings:

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And full nozzle assembly including resin afterburner can versus original one:

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Now the same process will be repeated for the other side...

 

Serkan

Edited by Serkan Sen
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The clear parts were casted and masked. They are ready for painting:

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The front and rear canopies are not crystal clear as I have forgotten to polish the master pieces (gray primed) before preparing silicone molds:

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I applied a coat of Future/Pledge to make the canopies clearer. I will use these parts at least place holders for painting.

 

I will cast new set of canopy and polish them to make new molds for crystal clear part casting. Later I can replace new canopies with these ones.

 

Serkan

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Excellent work on the nozzles and canopies, Serkan! 👍
 

On 28/02/2020 at 21:23, Serkan Sen said:

Both M-21 and A-12 are now waiting for next step 🙂

Looks like we’re going to see both finished soon... 😋 

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39 minutes ago, Nikolay Polyakov said:

Looks like we’re going to see both finished soon... 😋

Thanks Nikolay,

I have made some attempts to apply alclad metallic paints but experienced that at some areas the paint was lifted off with masking film when I was applying different shades of metallic colours. It was most probably due to finger oil which I forgot to clean with IPA. I will apply the alclad primer and metallic colors again...

 

Serkan

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9 hours ago, Serkan Sen said:

I will apply the alclad primer and metallic colors again...

Tamiya has a great acrylic metallic paints, along with a GSI. There’s no need to use an Alclad, in my opinion. Just my Ten Cents... 😉

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59 minutes ago, Nikolay Polyakov said:

Tamiya has a great acrylic metallic paints, along with a GSI. There’s no need to use an Alclad, in my opinion. Just my Ten Cents... 😉

Until last year I have only used MM enamel paints including metallic colors. But I was not very happy with metalizers when I had to mask them. Even using metalizer sealer did not give any successful results.

Then I have decided to give try Alclad II and bought complete set of bottles... The primer works well but the metallic colors are very sensitive to surface smoothness and has to be free of finger fett...

Recently I have bought the complete set of Tamiya X and XF colors because my wife was complaining about the nitro smell in basement...

Now it will smell IPA as I will use it to thin paints and clean airbrush 😁

 

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22 hours ago, Serkan Sen said:

Then I have decided to give try Alclad II and bought complete set of bottles... The primer works well but the metallic colors are very sensitive to surface smoothness and has to be free of finger fett...

 

Serkan,

 

I still don't have many experiences with Alclad II, but I don't think it's a waste of money to have them. Once I copied some useful information on how to handle Alclad II paints best from a forum. I already posted this info here

Maybe it comes a bit late as you already work with Tamiya paints, but maybe it will help you in the future.

 

The key to avoid the loss of shine by masking tape use is to seal the metallic paint with a layer of Aqua Gloss. This is mandatory if you use high shine colors. It will also allow you to use decals with the decal setting solutions without altering the metallic shine or having other problems.

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1 hour ago, Sting67 said:

Maybe it comes a bit late as you already work with Tamiya paints, but maybe it will help you in the future.

Thanks for hints Ramon. I haven't started to use Tamiya colors yet and I will finish both Blackbirds with MM and Alclad paints. I have used in both models Alclad gray primer but the Alclad metallic paint was lifted off when I removed vinly masking tape. Next time I will make first the vinyl film less tacky and then mask the panels.

I need to make more experiments to learn how to work with Alclad metals before going back to pending Flanker projects because the engine and exhaust areas require several shades of metal finishes...

Serkan

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4 hours ago, Space Ranger said:

I inadvertently stumbled upon this, which may be a higher resolution copy than we have seen up to now:

 If I am not wrong this is the drawing of SR-71A with SLR nose.

Unfortunately I didn't see any high res detailed drawings of SR-71 either.

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