RadMax8 Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Damn, ‘Stang that’s quite the project you’ve put together there. Might good looking from my seat! Way to stick with it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schwarz-Brot Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 That's one gigantic pencil! Beautiful detail - hopefully it will be seen at least a little with the cockpit closed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 On 4/18/2020 at 12:25 AM, RadMax8 said: Damn, ‘Stang that’s quite the project you’ve put together there. Might good looking from my seat! Way to stick with it! On 4/18/2020 at 3:44 PM, Schwarz-Brot said: That's one gigantic pencil! Beautiful detail - hopefully it will be seen at least a little with the cockpit closed. Thanks Max and S-B! I think at least the top 2/3 rds of the shifter will stick up out of the transmission tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Working on the rest of the interior now. I didn't like the OOB door panels ………………..at ALL. First off , the OOB armrest and inside door latch handle were barely visible. No "Maverick" trim bezel was present at the top of the trim panel either. Being a car than only sees the track....it's not SUPPOSED to have a window crank handle either....BUT...it was molded in and I decided to install a PE handle and knob from the spares bin. The armrest was made out of spare resin parts block retainers that I had, the door latch handles were made out of square bits of PE that I bent and glued into place and the trim bezel was from extra window crank knobs that I had in stock. Interior in the foreground is OOB with the one I'm using in the back ground..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six97s Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 I was following this on the MCM forum. Those Futureattraction parts are nice - you must have a very steady hand. 😵 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Six97s said: I was following this on the MCM forum. Those Futureattraction parts are nice - you must have a very steady hand. 😵 Actually one of my strong points is my patience. There just aint no other way to build some thing like this. As for the turn out I'm going to hand that to Scott at Futureattraction. That guy has some of the best products I've ever seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 Well guys....I can't believe it's been almost three months since I've touched this car but I needed a dang break after that shifter ordeal. That thing kicked my a$$!!! I managed to get the seat drilled and slotted to make way for the seat belt harness. The harness build up wasn't too bad outside of me not paying attention to what I was doing at times and having to go back and make some corrections along the way. This is not the period correct harness I was hoping to build but the correct one is actually harder than the Liberty shifter that I just built for this car. I'm not about to go through anything like that again on this build. lol 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Still looks pretty good even if it doesn't quite match what you originally wanted. I think that gearstick would have driven me round the bend too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Thanks Spiny! Today saw the installation of the shifter. I cut the rods to length as well and will be installing those tomorrow morning. Really adds a lot to the interior.... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 Ok folks....got the shift linkage/ rods in place. Now for that tachometer.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 This morning I got her standing on her own. Rear tires will be going in a smidgen to give her the proper look but this is going to be the ride height. All this time I had to find a way to lock the front suspension ride height in and I finally was able to do this by drilling small holes in the front of the frame and installing locating pins. Worked like a charm: I worked a lot on the firewall this morning by modifying to work with the Mustang shock towers. I'll post progress of this on the next update. Meanwhile I also cut out the battery box/ pedestal on the R/H shock tower panel. Battery is located in the rear of the car so no battery box was needed here. Plus I needed all the room I could get with that big bottom 427 in that engine bay. Before.... and after: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 This week has been slow and it usually seems to be that way towards the end of alot of my builds. All the planning that I've been doing for the last 4 months all comes together at the last part it seems. Sometimes I'm hesitant to move too fast as a screw up at this point would mean alot of re-work. I've been working on the firewall area, removing the already installed transmission mount and moving it to the rear a little more so that the engine and transmission will set into place properly. That meant popping the mount loose, sanding and repainting the chassis (which I had to separate the front subframe from the main part of the chassis to gain access to the areas for sanding and the repaint) and reassembly of the whole chassis again. I also worked on the rear part of the chassis so that I could get the proper rear tire alignment with the body (in other words...suck those big fat rear tires inwards a little bit towards the center of the car to keep 'em from sticking out too far from the wheel openings). I received my tachometer from Ted's Modeling Marketplace and while it is the perfect size and diameter, the tachometer decals that came with it were NOT. Really frustrating why a manufacturer (Detail Master) would put a smaller tach in a package and then throw decals for a MUCH larger tach in the same bag. Really PO'd about that I found a decal that works. Most of the efforts moving forward will center around the engine bay and all the parts fit as well as the engine detailing. I was really surprised when I actually thought about it that I'm around 80% complete with this bad boy. I've been on it since late December/ January so it's been a long road but I'm well pleased with how it's turning out so far. Here's the shot of it so far with a decal from the Revell Pro Stock Thunderbird decal sheet that actually fits the tach face. Tach is mounted up in the correct placed to boot. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted November 18, 2020 Author Share Posted November 18, 2020 Ok.....I'm FINALLY back in action on this bad boy. Just one helluva late summer gang. Then my wife caught Covid-19 and then messed her knee up so I've been busier than a one legged man in an a$$ kicking contest. So.....with all that being said.....here is my re-entry back into this great forum.... After months and months of thought and fizzled out ideas I've finally got it. Sorry it took so long to get back to you Roger. I was just flabbergasted at the whole thing when it came to this part. First off...I had an idea for the fenderwells that have been giving me so much grief and pause on this build. We'll be moving forward using soda can aluminum for those. I have to move the shock tower just a shade to the rear of the engine bay to make this work so here's the plan moving forward. First off, I didn't have a Diet Coke can but I did have a Sprite offering. aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand Presto!!! I've still gotta play around with cutting and trimming here and there to get it all to fit just right but you get the idea. Now I can cut the shock tower from the plastic piece and adhere it to the aluminum part in the correct place and I also get rid of that windshield washer bag that shouldn't be there. BONUS!!! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 Hint: Instead of drink cans, the supermarket sells baking and pie tins by the million and they are bright, shiny ally and .005" thick - perfect for scale. Here's one on my GT-40 as heatshield under rear glass: 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 4 hours ago, Codger said: Hint: Instead of drink cans, the supermarket sells baking and pie tins by the million and they are bright, shiny ally and .005" thick - perfect for scale. Here's one on my GT-40 as heatshield under rear glass: I do like this idea Codger and may have to give it a try at some point. Definitely keeping that one in mind. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 Good to have you back at it @mustang1989, hope the wife's doing ok now! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted November 21, 2020 Author Share Posted November 21, 2020 Thanks Jeroen. She's all better and back to work now. My brother and his wife have it and so do my parents. So far they seem to be doing alright. Three days worth of titting and scrapping 3....or is it 4?? fabricated inner fenderwells no and I've finally got it. I got the idea to put the base engine in the bay adn it changed the whole complexion of things......ALOT. With the engine in place I get to see what's gonna work....and what aint. So with all that stuff being said I had to approach this with a whole new mindset and put an inner fenderwell in place with no V cut outs for the shock tower for added rigidity once fitted into place. then I cut the plastic shock towers from the original inner fenderwell and thinned it down enought to clear the rocker covers and headers. This.....is gonna work. Afteer more than 6 hours at the bench enduring trial and error ...I think I've got it. A nice coat of semi gloss black and it'll all look the part. The modified shock tower is laying just in front of the radiator core support area: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 I managed to get the engine installed and the headers painted and attached. Those couple of items may not sound like a whole lot but believe me....there was a whole lot of planning, test fitting and modifying to make just those few items happen. Added a small amount of blueing to the end of the exhaust outlets. Not much.....just enough for effect. I also painted and installed the driveshaft. About all that's left here is to fabricate some steering linkage and the bottom side will be done save for some scratch built wheelie bars. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vesa Jussila Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Nice work. In local hobby shop used to have lot of these Jo-Han kits in early 80's. Now just stupid prices now. Are molds still somewhere? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 1 hour ago, Vesa Jussila said: Nice work. In local hobby shop used to have lot of these Jo-Han kits in early 80's. Now just stupid prices now. Are molds still somewhere? Thanks Vesa. There are resin copies on ebay but that's about all I know of. I was fortunate to get my hands on two of these kits for good prices. One was unbuilt and the other was already 3/4 of the way assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 At this point there was still some tweeking left to do with the spark plug wire "boots" in the way of shortening them. I chucked up several of these pins that I have in the drill and ground the ends against a file to reduce the diameter of the pin heads. Then I cut all of the down to the same length And here the plug wire boots test fitted into place. At this point they still needed shortened and painted black to be fully prepped for the wire install. (Part of what's been stalling this is waiting on the correct color of ignition wires to arrive in the mail which happened yesterday so forward we go) ... Here's with the ignition wires formed and installed. This is NOT what I was opting for because these wires should be red but the "spark plug wire" that I got sent was the scale size of a battery cable so I went for orange. Here in this pic I just didn't like how the "magneto" on the engine looked and it wasn't "correct" for the build so I removed it and went with a regular coil. I also dirtied up the ignition wires as well. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Mansfield Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Filing down 8 pin heads in a drill sounds dangerous! But the result is really good. They look fantastic 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 On 11/30/2020 at 3:06 PM, Mr Mansfield said: Filing down 8 pin heads in a drill sounds dangerous! But the result is really good. They look fantastic Thanks Mr. M! Been working on the fuel induction the whole week. I started out with the intake runners and plenum. Shot with the unpainted carburetors from Futureattraction: Then I shot a coat of Tamiya X-31 Titanium Gold on 'em, filled in the throttle bores with some flat black and assembled them Then came a dark brown acrylic wash, allowed to dry and followed up with a dry brushing of ground up black pastel to flatten it all out and add some "age" to them. I took a comparative pic of both carbs. One on the left is with the wash and pastel treatment and the one on the right is without it. And with both carburetors painted and "weathered". Now.....it's time to add the details. Once the fuel lines and the throttle levers got added I installed them both on top of the intake and test fit the whole assembly to the top of the manifold. The engine takes on a whole new appearance with everything now together. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 Throttle linkage is around 90% complete. Still gotta and the levers from the firewall to the throttle quadrant (that still has to be added as well) and from the quadrant up to the carburetors. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vesa Jussila Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Very convincing details. I have only once seen this engine in real life. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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