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Scary Skeeter - Aeroclub 1/72


CedB

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I'm quite envious of your soldering gear, showing the actual temperature and the set point. Mine only has a knob on a generic scale and a red led to signal when it's reached the set point ... 

 

:D 

 

Tiny bits looking good, BTW

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme
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1 hour ago, Spookytooth said:

I see that @TheBaron had better move over, the king of brass is here. LOL

A better person than I Ced, great work there sir.

I would of melted the brass, table, everything . LOL.

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon, but I think I've got a long way to go before I reach Tony's level; and he keeps upping the bar! :) 

29 minutes ago, giemme said:

I'm quite envious of your soldering gear, showing the actual temperature and the set point. Mine only has a knob on a generic scale and a red led to signal when it's reached the set point ... 

 

:D 

 

Tiny bits looking goo, BTW

 

Ciao

Thanks Giorgio :) It's nice, when it works!

 

BTW I think the 'old solder' melts at 280º. I've written it on the roll now - the labels fell off in the '70s!

 

Skid shaped:

 

49560652642_bd1202419b_z.jpg

 

I'm not going to get much closer than that TBH. Tiny.

 

I've also stuck on the filler cap:

 

49560496586_375aa8d067_z.jpg

 

Fitting the top frame is proving tricky. I had to file down the tops of the inner frame to try to get the ring to lay flat:

 

49560453896_b72b414bfa_z.jpg

 

…and of course I knocked one of them off.

I need to leave that until I get more patience:

 

49560762137_28d892801e_z.jpg

 

We're away for a few days now so there will be a pause 🐾

Keep yourself busy and be good!

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12 minutes ago, CedB said:

Thanks Giorgio :) It's nice, when it works!

Quite. I had one of those, and it used to hunt up and down, by about 20°C either way, rather than stick at the set temperature. In the end, I went "pro" and invested in some serious German technology.

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I find it easier and more controllable to apply Mr Dissolved Putty with a small paintbrush. As it starts to set you can pull it into shape, useful for small knobs etc!

Totally sandable too, I've used it for years for the coaming around open cockpits.

 

Ian

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Soldering irons with displays to show how hot they are, or even just with knobs and a red light?

Mine has a handle, power lead, and a plug. No fancy display, no knob to twiddle, no red light - not even one of those springy cone-shaped things to stick it in...

 

On the rare occasions that I actually used it, I think it suddenly leapt from 'barely melt an ice-cream' to 'thermite lance' in a mere nano-seconds...

....'cause the solder would sit there unyielding, then suddenly drip like molten lava - and whatever I was attempting to join invariably fell apart later!

 

 

Prime 'Fnnarr' material in some (most) of the first part!

Edited by andyf117
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13 minutes ago, andyf117 said:

Soldering irons with displays to show how hot they are, or even just with knobs and a red light?

Mine has a handle, power lead, and a plug. No fancy display, no knob to twiddle, no red light - not even one of those springy cone-shaped things to stick it in...

 

On the rare occasions when I actually used it, I think it jumped from 'wouldn't melt an ice-cream' to 'thermite lance' in a matter of seconds...

....'cause the solder would sit there unyielding, then suddenly drip like molten lava - and whatever I was trying to join invariably fell apart later!

 

 

Prime 'Fnnarr' material in some (most) of the first part!

I know the feeling, trying to solder with a spade is not easy.

 

Simon.

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12 hours ago, CedB said:

Trying to get the tip tinned I set fire (yes, fire) to the cleaning pad:

 

49560480927_5981968dd4_z.jpg

 

…and the iron seemed 'quite hot'

 

Ced you might get on a bit better if you add some water to that sponge. 

It will still clean the tip though I keep some fine wire wool for that.  I use the (wetted!) sponge to wipe of any excess build up of solder on the tip

 

 

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On 2/17/2020 at 4:43 PM, andyf117 said:

Some of us can only dream of only being charged £82,62...

....having to have the passenger door module replaced in my C70...

....can only be done by Volvo, as it will have to be coded to the car...

....is taking a week to get and fit it - with a total price tag of £850... 😧

In a further development, took a call within the last hour saying the PDM is now fixed, so "everything on that side is now working again - but..."

On taking the car for a test drive, there were a couple of sudden losses of power, wild battery charge level fluctuations, and then trouble starting the car...

....apparently traced to the CEM showing corrosion (some "green pins") - to have it replaced would be a further £860...

....I've never experienced any power losses, or issues with starting - so for now, it's being 'cleaned up as best they can'...

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Ask 'them' to put No-Crode or a similar substance on the pins before  they plug it all closed

 

I use a product from AES called contralube, it stops corrosion and can eat any which is in your connections

 

They may offer to use a spray to do the job, better than nothing but a purpose designed substance is better

 

 

STOP PRESS

*just found a vintage tube of No-Crode on 'the bay', as far as I can remember it doesnt go off, might be worth a punt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOLTS-NO-CRODE-BATTERY-TERMINAL-GREASE-CORROSION-INHIBITOR-VINTAGE-32G/254514020883?hash=item3b4237c213:g:oa4AAOSws11eSOpU

 

I always used it when putting car wiring together, it eats corrosion

 

** the ebay thing is nothing to do with me, but if I was still working on cars I'd bite his hand off for it

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39 minutes ago, perdu said:

Ask 'them' to put No-Crode or a similar substance on the pins before  they plug it all closed

 

I use a product from AES called contralube, it stops corrosion and can eat any which is in your connections

 

They may offer to use a spray to do the job, better than nothing but a purpose designed substance is better

 

STOP PRESS

*just found a vintage tube of No-Crode on 'the bay', as far as I can remember it doesnt go off, might be worth a punt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOLTS-NO-CRODE-BATTERY-TERMINAL-GREASE-CORROSION-INHIBITOR-VINTAGE-32G/254514020883?hash=item3b4237c213:g:oa4AAOSws11eSOpU

Thanks, Bill, but we're already beyond that now - 90 minutes after the above-mentioned phone call, took another from the service manager to say that the situation had worsened, insofar as 'cleaning up' and re-fitting the CEM resulted in a completely dead car...
....the 'upside' is that with it having happened whilst with them ("on my watch", as he put it), he has stated that they'll replace it for "significantly less" than the previously-stated £860 - "rolling the two jobs into one" and "at in-house cost" were two phrases used, so I won't be looking at £1700+ had they been done separately...

Edited by andyf117
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18 minutes ago, perdu said:

I think you might be looking for compo at this rate, migod what are they playing at there

There was a recall for some models (including C70s) where water ran back along the wiring to the CEM from the washer pump - but my car wasn't subject to that one...

....and the Volvo Owner's forum has various instances of failures and problems due to corroded CEM pins - so it's nothing new, or anything they did, specifically...

....lucky for me that it happened when they had it, thereby costing me less - and that it didn't happen blasting along a dual carriageway, or on a narrow Cornish lane...

Edited by andyf117
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6 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

And I was considering looking at a Volvo next - think I'll stick with Japanese (although they ain't as reliable as at one time....)

 

Keith

One word: Subaru Outback. Okay, that's two words …

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