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Scary Skeeter - Aeroclub 1/72


CedB

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Sorry to be off the pace in following your work of late Ced but my goodness what a pleasant catchup - some truly lovely developments.

 

Your brassworking looks excellent my friend - no advice to add save to say that once you develop a 'feel' for the metal it will suggest what it needs you to do in any given situation. Glad you're enjoying it and getting such excellent results!

 

 

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I forgot to mention vocabulary and argot

 

Helicopters are full of it mate

 

I love, yes love how you have done the little cast rotor head and seeing what you have done so far convinces me that I was right to 'cede it to Ced'

 

I always remove the little nubs with my curved Swann-Morton number two craft knife blades, the curve lets me get in tight to the etched edge and lose the nub

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6 hours ago, giemme said:

Neat job, Ced! :clap: :clap:

 

Ciao

 

Thanks Giorgio :) 

6 hours ago, Marklo said:

Depending on your molding method, every little blemish may be visible. I have a canopy on a mig 21 conversion where if you look carefully you can make out the wood grain from the balsa wood plug. Since then I’ve started using basswood and the grain is fine enough not to show.

Thanks Marklo :) Heck… I wonder if the dental machine will do the same? We shall see!

5 hours ago, limeypilot said:

Damn. More tools I need.

Nice work Ced!

 

Ian

Thanks Ian - Ha ha, glad it's not just me :) 

5 hours ago, TheBaron said:

Sorry to be off the pace in following your work of late Ced but my goodness what a pleasant catchup - some truly lovely developments.

 

Your brassworking looks excellent my friend - no advice to add save to say that once you develop a 'feel' for the metal it will suggest what it needs you to do in any given situation. Glad you're enjoying it and getting such excellent results!

 

 

Thanks Tony, appreciated (from one of my Gurus!) :) 

5 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Rod things = dampers

Cheers matey, DO please keep feeding me the proper terms :) 

5 hours ago, perdu said:

I forgot to mention vocabulary and argot

 

Helicopters are full of it mate

 

I love, yes love how you have done the little cast rotor head and seeing what you have done so far convinces me that I was right to 'cede it to Ced'

 

I always remove the little nubs with my curved Swann-Morton number two craft knife blades, the curve lets me get in tight to the etched edge and lose the nub

Thanks Bill also appreciate another Guru positive vote :blush:

 

 

Remember this:

 

49546876006_219c63b536_z.jpg

 

It was a bit big and I noticed that the bottom of the real thing tapers inwards, so I filed it a bit and now it's better:

 

49547383613_de70ece15f_z.jpg

 

Bearing in mind Keith's warning, my soldering skills and the fact that I've been worrying about how to do FOUR twin supports for the frame, I think I might 'simplify' the frame, do the big ones that go to the back in brass (for practice) and either leave the others out or do them with plastic rod (that I can cut to size and stick in more easily).

 

I'm not touching anything at the moment though - I'm TOO CROSS :jump_fire:

I took the car into the VW workshop at Bristol to look at the dashcam/smart systems problem this morning.

Left it with them for a couple of hours.

Remember Halfords had not only failed to fix the DAB but they'd also messed up the Stop/Start, Front Assist and Parking sensors?

VW connected the diagnostic computer to the car and it said the car had reported an 'unknown device' and had shut down the systems 'for safety'.

Their advice was to see if the NextBase dashcam could be 'coded' so that the computer recognised it, but they couldn't do that. They said perhaps I should have a VW dashcam fitted?

They also said they had checked the wiring and that was fine.

Charged me £82.62 for 30 minutes labour for their 'Experienced Senior Technician'.

 

I was sad and a bit miffed. Had a lie down and thought I'll look on the 'net. 

The T-Roc forums suggested using the fuse that drives the cigarette lighter sockets.

Hmmm.

 

I remember the Halfords chap (nice bloke) had forgotten what fuse he'd used so I (not an 'Experienced Senior Technician') had a look in the fusebox and guess what?

THE FUSE FOR THE Stop/Start, Front Assist and Parking sensors WAS MISSING!!!

Halfords had obviously put it back in the wrong place.

 

Death's too good for them…

I'll try to get some money back but I'm not holding my breath.

 

Signed

Angry of Bath

Oh, OK, slightly miffed.

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I promise you I would be more than slightly miffed, what's that  thing where hot things go lighter than 'lighted up'?

 

Ah yes I remember


I would be bl++dy INCANDESCENT with rage

 

Now calm down a tad and tell me, have YOU fixed the fault from using the T-Roc forum?

 

Good job you are retired or you would be Bristle and Barf's next auto-entrepreneur start up

 

I agree that if one is less skilled than a skilled person with irons(and fires?) to break the framing down is the best way forwards  :)

 

 

You know I am kidding don't you, getting the framing right in there will be a good sized step along the Way Of Brass like Brother The Baron and Brother Hendie

 

Think on...

 

Oh dear seems some "Northern" stuck yesterday...

 

:(

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1 hour ago, CedB said:

Charged me £82.62 for 30 minutes labour for their 'Experienced Senior Technician'.

Some of us can only dream of only being charged £82,62...

....having to have the passenger door module replaced in my C70...

....can only be done by Volvo, as it will have to be coded to the car...

....is taking a week to get and fit it - with a total price tag of £850... 😧

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2 hours ago, CedB said:

THE FUSE FOR THE Stop/Start, Front Assist and Parking sensors WAS MISSING!!!

 

If a VW 'Experienced Senior Technician' didn't spot that, I'd be demanding my £82.62 back, seeking compensation for time and fuel wasted and complaining to VW's UK head office - that 'Experienced Senior Technician' is obviously completely useless! My daughter used to have similar problems when they used to have Audis - she was always complaing to the head office and usually got her money back and compo in the form of half price services or somesuch.... 

 

K

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18 minutes ago, andyf117 said:

....can only be done by Volvo, as it will have to be coded to the car...

 

I thought that was 'illegal' now as manufacturers are supposed to make their electronic diagnostics available to independents?

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1 hour ago, perdu said:

Now calm down a tad and tell me, have YOU fixed the fault from using the T-Roc forum?

I did Bill! :clap2:

All working now (I think). I put the missing fuse back and moved the piggy back to somewhere less sensitive.

To be honest the fuses aren't well documented in the user manual but someone posted a 'proper numbered picture' on the forum and someone else found some of the details.

I don't know why VW are hiding the details, it's not as though they're known for hiding things (ahem) :whistle:

1 hour ago, perdu said:

I agree that if one is less skilled than a skilled person with irons(and fires?) to break the framing down is the best way forwards  :)

 

You know I am kidding don't you, getting the framing right in there will be a good sized step along the Way Of Brass like Brother The Baron and Brother Hendie

 

Think on...

Now that sounds like a challenge! I suppose I could try…

1 hour ago, perdu said:

Oh dear seems some "Northern" stuck yesterday...

Eeee oop Lad, get thee cap on and call t'ut Whippet :D 

(Stereotypes have gotta come from somewhere)

14 minutes ago, andyf117 said:

Some of us can only dream of only being charged £82,62...

....having to have the passenger door module replaced in my C70...

....can only be done by Volvo, as it will have to be coded to the car...

....is taking a week to get and fit it - with a total price tag of £850... 😧

Ouch.That hurts Andy :( 

2 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

 

If a VW 'Experienced Senior Technician' didn't spot that, I'd be demanding my £82.62 back, seeking compensation for time and fuel wasted and complaining to VW's UK head office - that 'Experienced Senior Technician' is obviously completely useless! My daughter used to have similar problems when they used to have Audis - she was always complaing to the head office and usually got her money back and compo in the form of half price services or somesuch.... 

 

K

On the case now Keith!

The guy I saw and spoke to said the technician is one of their most experienced.

An old man with a gammy leg.

(No sympathy from me)

Apparently he's gone home now but the bloke and his manager want to talk to him tomorrow before they decide what to do.

Watch this space…

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1 hour ago, keefr22 said:

 

I thought that was 'illegal' now as manufacturers are supposed to make their electronic diagnostics available to independents?

The problem was initially intermittent, with windows, central locking and BLIS temporarily not functioning - but when it got worse, with the window stuck partially open, wing mirror not unfolding and an airbag warning light on, I took it to the garage where it gets serviced and MoT'ed...

....their diagnostic kit wouldn't/couldn't talk to that door, so they said it would have to go the dealer for them to investigate with their 'all-singing, all-dancing' equipment - and they specifically said once Volvo had diagnosed the problem, to bring it back to them to fix unless it was something which would require 'coding', which they wouldn't be able to do. Presumably, the module having failed is why their kit couldn't connect to it...

....from what I gather, 'coding' parts to specific cars is becoming more common, in an effort to stop people buying cheaper alternatives or secondhand replacements - the Volvo guy cited a recent instance of someone who'd bought a simple door switch on eBay, which didn't work when they fitted it. Because it was coded to the car it had come off, and couldn't be re-programmed, they had to buy a brand-new OEM one for the dealer to fit and 'code'...

Edited by andyf117
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2 hours ago, andyf117 said:

rom what I gather, 'coding' parts to specific cars is becoming more common, in an effort to stop people buying cheaper alternatives or secondhand replacements - the Volvo guy cited a recent instance of someone who'd bought a simple door switch on eBay, which didn't work when they fitted it. Because it was coded to the car it had come off, and couldn't be re-programmed, they had to buy a brand-new OEM one for the dealer to fit and 'code'...

 

If that's not anti-competitive I don't know what is!

 

Got us over a barrel haven't they?! And it's only going to get worse with so many totally unnecessary gizmos manufacturers are insisting on fitting.

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7 hours ago, CedB said:

Charged me £82.62 for 30 minutes labour for their 'Experienced Senior Technician'.

Yikes! That's the equivalent of $215.00 US! The last time I had any work done on one of my automobiles, it cost only about half that. Granted, it was money well spent, and it was an independent shop (not a dealer), but still …

 

You are quite justified to be miffed.

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5 hours ago, bbudde said:

Hello Ced ,sad to hear about these problems with your car and VW. Hope you get your money back for the bad service. As we say here "Auto fängt mit au an" ! (directly: Car begins with ouch!).

Cheers

Thanks Ben :D 

5 hours ago, andyf117 said:

The problem was initially intermittent, with windows, central locking and BLIS temporarily not functioning - but when it got worse, with the window stuck partially open, wing mirror not unfolding and an airbag warning light on, I took it to the garage where it gets serviced and MoT'ed...

....their diagnostic kit wouldn't/couldn't talk to that door, so they said it would have to go the dealer for them to investigate with their 'all-singing, all-dancing' equipment - and they specifically said once Volvo had diagnosed the problem, to bring it back to them to fix unless it was something which would require 'coding', which they wouldn't be able to do. Presumably, the module having failed is why their kit couldn't connect to it...

....from what I gather, 'coding' parts to specific cars is becoming more common, in an effort to stop people buying cheaper alternatives or secondhand replacements - the Volvo guy cited a recent instance of someone who'd bought a simple door switch on eBay, which didn't work when they fitted it. Because it was coded to the car it had come off, and couldn't be re-programmed, they had to buy a brand-new OEM one for the dealer to fit and 'code'...

4 hours ago, andyf117 said:

I paid as much for this car as for the preceding half-dozen combined...

2 hours ago, keefr22 said:

 

If that's not anti-competitive I don't know what is!

 

Got us over a barrel haven't they?! And it's only going to get worse with so many totally unnecessary gizmos manufacturers are insisting on fitting.

Thanks Andy and Keith :)

Hmmm.

It's tricky this, commercially, isn't it?

Years ago I had a Scimitar GTE and all the Reliant spares were expensive.

A friend found a friend at a motor factors and she drew up list of the parts and where they could be had cheaper. Reliant went bust, I think.

Now we all know that manufacturers buy their bits (especially electrical and hydraulics) from specialist manufacturers like Bosch. Used to be Lucas when I were a lad.

Dealers are having their margins squeezed so I can imagine that there is an 'arrangement' that protects their margins.

Trouble is, if they price themselves out of the market, they'll go bust too and then where will we buy our bits?

I think something needs to happen but, capitalism what it is, I'm not sure what.

Trabant anyone?

 

1 hour ago, Space Ranger said:

Yikes! That's the equivalent of $215.00 US! The last time I had any work done on one of my automobiles, it cost only about half that. Granted, it was money well spent, and it was an independent shop (not a dealer), but still …

 

You are quite justified to be miffed.

Thanks Michael. I haven't checked the exchange rate recently but I wonder if you'd be prepared to swap some currency? Just as soon as my Kenyan Prince transfers that money he promised me :D 

 

 

Remember this, kindly posted by Steve ( @worm ) in Melchie's thread?

 

FireproofBulkheads_zpsd9300834.jpg

 

(Is that still fuzzy? Well, if so, blow you PB; I can see the original, sorry)

 

I've had a revelation (might be the wine)

i've been pondering how I can get the length of the gearbox supports right if I do a 'downward 'V'. Scary.

This evening I realised that they join at the bottom too (cheeky!) so I can solder some 'V' shapes (same to you fella) and cut the tops off.

Genius.

Not.

 

I've also realised that you'll be able to see the rear frame.

Rats.

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4 hours ago, CedB said:

Thanks Michael. I haven't checked the exchange rate recently but I wonder if you'd be prepared to swap some currency? Just as soon as my Kenyan Prince transfers that money he promised me :D 

 

Hey! He promised me that money!

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9 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:
9 hours ago, CedB said:

I've also realised that you'll be able to see the rear frame.

Fnarr

Thanks Crisp :D That said, it's so tiny and when painted black inside I think very little will be seen so I'm bowing out of the bottom bit - snurf snurf.

 

5 hours ago, Space Ranger said:

Hey! He promised me that money!

Ah, well we'll see who his best friend is, won't we Michael :D 

 

 

Right, take it easy.

If I'm going to make the frame then the gearbox will have to be stuck in. What have I got that will let me wiggle (titter) and then fix?

 

49551422616_2a7384be54_z.jpg

 

Cleaned everything with IPA on cotton buds, positioned the gearbox with the shaft dry fitted, adjusted then ZAP!

 

49551424256_f6e15cf845_z.jpg

 

My references of XL812 show that, with the boom almost level, the shaft is almost vertical so I think that's almost right.

 

Here's some 0.3mm rod stuck in the back:

 

49551719537_2a79441d6e_z.jpg

 

I did have a silly idea that I could bend up and down and make the frame from one piece, but not possible - how do you get this bent in the right place:

 

49551492056_20d46336b8_z.jpg

 

By the way, I'm bending with my wire cutters to get a sharp bend:

 

49551531696_f65fcbf784_z.jpg

 

Just don't grip too hard!

 

The first couple are in, glued to the top with a dot of CA:

 

49551767837_5ac842533b_z.jpg

 

Now I need to fit the shaft box at the back and the drive shaft at the side. I used plastic tube sanded (and sanded) to shape:

 

49551584296_838b0bdcf2_z.jpg

 

For the drive shaft I put some rod in the tube to get the right(ish) shape. Hard as this is tiny:

 

49551647246_f8ab2acdf6_z.jpg

 

There are the bits in the mitre block. See 'em? Told you it was tiny.

I'm using the micro-divider far more than I thought I would when they arrived - handy.

 

Both bits in now:

 

49551896412_e97ac1d02e_z.jpg

 

I think I need to paint now before everything gets too crowded and I can't reach the bottom (nasty).

 

A shot for some perspective:

 

49551897507_ba55ce161c_z.jpg

 

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A level of audacious awesomeness has emerged in your work of late Ced - three weeks tops and you'll be fixing the car yourself.

15 hours ago, CedB said:

The guy I saw and spoke to said the technician is one of their most experienced.

An old man with a gammy leg.

- as the result of being kicked by customers....

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∆∆∆∆∆    He ain't wrong is he?

 

We are definitely in at a beginning

 

The framework and gearbox look proper Saunders-Roe to me Ced, exemplary work

 

Don't come here pretending not to be a master of our craft, won't wash chum

 

👍

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20 minutes ago, CedB said:

A shot for some perspective:

 

49551897507_ba55ce161c_z.jpg

Holy cr.p! I mean, that thing is tiny, and you are doing an excellent detailing job, Ced! :worthy:  :clap: Raising the bar higher and higher! :clap: 

 

Ciao

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