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Revell 1/48 Tornado F.3 ADV nose cone error?


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Hi mates

 

I'm planning to build my Eduard rebox version of the titled kit.

Before starting I searched several finished kit pictures online, but found the Revell F.3 nose looks very weird.

My first assumtion is, the nose cone is too long compared with real life pictures.

Just curious if any one else has any research result to prove my observation? Or any real life measurement to evaluate the Revell kit nosecone?

 

Thanks all in advance.

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The nose although not perfect  is probably the best of all the ADV kits. Are you sure that you are not comparing the nose with a GR version which is very different?

 

Selwyn

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2 hours ago, Selwyn said:

The nose although not perfect  is probably the best of all the ADV kits. Are you sure that you are not comparing the nose with a GR version which is very different?

 

Selwyn

I have made quite a number of aircraft models so I'm very confident not mixing ADV with GR...

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/profile/2443-haneto/content/&type=forums_topic&change_section=1

 

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I think the nose is the correct length BUT on many models I don't thing the transition between the structural elements and the radome are depicted correctly. the radome is not the whole of the new nose, the rear portions are a structural transition between the radome and the original IDS fuselage, but I've seen a few  models where the whole of that part is painted as the radome, which makes it look really long

 

See here for a good pic showing that https://www.airliners.net/photo/UK-Air-Force/Panavia-Tornado-F3/1209667

 

 

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The Revell Tornado kits in 1/48 are definitely delicate to put together.  The transition from radome to fuselage is definitely something to watch.  

 

-On the GR or IDS kits, the dome shape of the radome should extend to the next panel line (the physical line between the kit radome part and the fuselage needs to be blended in completely). On the kit built as such there is one panel line too many. The first molded panel line should be the base of the radome. The overall kit length seems correct, but the radome part too short and the actual fuselage too long.  This is however easily fixed.

 

-On the F.3, comparing the picture Dave Fleming posted and the actual kit, I would conclude the following: Between the radome and the windshield, there are 2 distinct vertical panel lines. The kit and the real aircraft match here. However looking more closely how the radome shape transitions to the fuselage, I do see a difference. On the real aircraft, the radome shape is kept till the first panel line.  On the kit, the transition starts more forward, right at the base of the radome itself.  To me this gives the Revell kit that pinched look. A bit of filler could solve this (I plan to do just that).  It will be a little bit more tricky than on the GR, as the radome separation will need  to be rescribed.

 

I hope my words make sense because it's not always easy to describe

 

On a sidenote, other things (easily cured) that might make the Revell kits look a bit odd at times are:  base of the windshield needs to be completely blended in, wings need to have some anhedral (completely straight when oob), the speedbrakes when positioned open need to spread out a bit (on most ones I've seen they are glued on too vertically), not enough forward wing sweep, tip of the fin should not be diamond shaped... Well the list is quite long...

 

G

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1 hour ago, guillaume320 said:

The Revell Tornado kits in 1/48 are definitely delicate to put together.  The transition from radome to fuselage is definitely something to watch.  

 

 

 

-On the F.3, comparing the picture Dave Fleming posted and the actual kit, I would conclude the following: Between the radome and the windshield, there are 2 distinct vertical panel lines. The kit and the real aircraft match here. However looking more closely how the radome shape transitions to the fuselage, I do see a difference. On the real aircraft, the radome shape is kept till the first panel line.  On the kit, the transition starts more forward, right at the base of the radome itself.  To me this gives the Revell kit that pinched look. A bit of filler could solve this (I plan to do just that).  It will be a little bit more tricky than on the GR, as the radome separation will need  to be rescribed.

 

 

It's a complex shape that looks different with different angles - in plan and side elevations it's a smooth transition, it's only when the aircrat is banked you realise there are a lot of angles there!

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45 minutes ago, Robert said:

Is that a wooden nose cone ?

 

Regards

Robert

It looks like a nice bit of Walnut Robert but it's glass fibreglass. I think the days of Warton using wood were long gone by then.

 

John

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The Revel IDS/GR4 nose is ok, the mistake most people make thinking the cone to fuselarge join is demarcation but infact you have to fill that joint line and come back to next panel line and  then paint your nose cone from there..a Resin replament would be more work than filling and sanding  this joint.

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On ‎30‎/‎01‎/‎2020 at 11:42, canberra kid said:

It looks like a nice bit of Walnut Robert but it's glass fibreglass. I think the days of Warton using wood were long gone by then.

 

John

Ive seen wood on a prototype GR,1

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On 1/30/2020 at 11:42 AM, canberra kid said:

It looks like a nice bit of Walnut Robert but it's glass fibreglass. I think the days of Warton using wood were long gone by then.

 

John

Some unpainted RAF Phantom nose cones looked like this as well..

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On 2/1/2020 at 3:48 PM, Shaun said:

The Revel IDS/GR4 nose is ok, the mistake most people make thinking the cone to fuselarge join is demarcation but infact you have to fill that joint line and come back to next panel line and  then paint your nose cone from there..

That’s what I was trying to explain, but English isn’t my first language haha 😅

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