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OK already the once again enjoyable Bristle Bilvedere


perdu

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I confess


I have been putting this one off but at last a few of the tapered trailing edges have been started

P1010485.jpg

 

I did have an alarming moment when I discovered that a few of my blanks were over width but as there were several to choose from it was not a problem

 

The overwide ones on the left here

P1010486.jpg

 

Annoying isnt it?

 

Anyway I finally got my eight

And these have had their leading edges sanded to the required section

 

Phew

 

P1010487.jpg

 

Right this evening's little task make all these blanks the right length and begin the necessary shaping

 

 

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Masterful Alan, I have me doubts but at least there are eight of these now

P1010488.jpg

 

And separated for type/direction of rotation

 

P1010489.jpg

 

I can begin to work on these now as I re-engineer some parts of the rotor heads, plenty of work to do in there

 

Also (but with no pictures) I am trying to mask the nose bubble prior to getting it all done and filled with switchery and panels

 

 

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6 minutes ago, busnproplinerfan said:

How did you sand the airfoil int the rotors? I tried that before and I can't get them consistent. I need to learn for some future projects.

P1010487.jpg


It is all on there

 

The jig on the left side of the mouse mat maintains a fixed depth of plastic strip, in this case high enough to get the aerofoil section filed on each side of the strip

 

The depth is set by 0.030" rods, you can see  the one I used for this depth just poking its little nose out of the front of the jig in the picture


It was possible I might need a deeper taper which is why I left the depths able to be altered by adding rods

 

The blanks are 0.030" as is the gap between the sides

 

Any depth adjustment is done in 0.030" increments, this I found did exactly what I needed

 

As a one time, now retired toolmaker I often make jigs in order to enable frequent copies of a part I am working on to be produced

 

The white sanding strip by the jig was almost perfect for the job, a few wipes with a file and then take it to size with the sanding strip

 

 

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6 hours ago, perdu said:

P1010487.jpg


It is all on there

 

The jig on the left side of the mouse mat maintains a fixed depth of plastic strip, in this case high enough to get the aerofoil section filed on each side of the strip

 

The depth is set by 0.030" rods, you can see  the one I used for this depth just poking its little nose out of the front of the jig in the picture


It was possible I might need a deeper taper which is why I left the depths able to be altered by adding rods

 

The blanks are 0.030" as is the gap between the sides

 

Any depth adjustment is done in 0.030" increments, this I found did exactly what I needed

 

As a one time, now retired toolmaker I often make jigs in order to enable frequent copies of a part I am working on to be produced

 

The white sanding strip by the jig was almost perfect for the job, a few wipes with a file and then take it to size with the sanding strip

 

 

So you put the strip in the jig and file trailing edge then reverse it for the leading edge?

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7 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

How did you sand the airfoil int the rotors? I tried that before and I can't get them consistent. I need to learn for some future projects.

I've used some of my precious Contrail strut stock for rotor blades. I've also made them from styrene strip stock of a thickness slightly more than required. I attached the wide side of the styrene strip to a narrow balsa block and then shaped the blade with a sanding block. If you use a long enough strip, you can get more than one blade out of it. If that's not possible, then use more than one strip cut to length, each attached to its own balsa block holder. In this case, the trick to making them uniform is NOT to completely shape one blade and then try to make the others match, but to sand a strip with one swipe of the sanding block, then repeat on the others. Then go back to the first and repeat, trying to duplicate the pressure and angle of the sanding block each time as much as possible.

 

Another alternative is to make one rotor blade, then cast it in resin, but that's a whole 'nother skill set (and a whole 'nother kettle of fish!).

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8 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

So you put the strip in the jig and file trailing edge then reverse it for the leading edge?

The beauty of this method is that you csan too both sides without taking the blade out for 'side two', just file the edge on the other side

 

OK?

oops late night posting after watching Ozark, I meant 'you can taper both sides without...

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We have been here before, ish.

 

The nose bubble is on and black filled with PPP and Vallejo, you just have to try dont you

 

P1010491.jpg

 

P1010492.jpg

 

Let that dry/harden then finish it off

 

 

 

 

 

 

Breaking news

 

Bill is not happy with the windows

 

 

Something must be done...

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1 hour ago, perdu said:

Breaking news

 

Bill is not happy with the windows

A thorough micromeshing, followed by some vigorous polishing with some Novus Blue plastic polish is the way to go with the windows Bill. I put a buffing wheel on the Dremel for this.

 

Martian 👽

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This  is plan a

 

PETg hot draped round the fuselage so I can cut out thinner clear windows

spacer.png

 

I might try to save the old ones Martian's way first though now I have blanks I can work with

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29 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Toothpaste? You must be a disciple of the late Alan W Hall.  :rofl:

Nothing beats polishing clear plastic with toothpaste and denim

 

And Alan was definitely one of my heroes

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7 hours ago, perdu said:

Nothing beats polishing clear plastic with toothpaste and denim

 

And Alan was definitely one of my heroes

Mine, too, The man could do amazing things with balsa wood, perspex, and talcum powder!

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