Pre Shading???

[Ranger I Pct 4]

I have pushed the B-17G to the side for a moment ever since I got an Eduard Focke — Wulf Fw 190A -8 1/48. This has proved to be a really fun build. My dilemma is; I do not understand pre shading if the lines will eventually be covered up by paint it just seems like this might be an unnecessary step. I have watched so many videos about this process and each video shows the lines being covered. So, if I were to understand the purpose and tried using it on a stealth like a 117, would it be a waste to apply it on a black fuselage? I don’t want to come off sounding like a jerk, I am confused about this topic and looking for the benefits on why and how this works when the lines get covered up.

Thanks!

[Rabbit Leader]

I believe the idea is to apply your top coat paint thinly enough so that the under surface pre-shade is still visible. If your top coat is too heavy, then you will obliterate the pre-shade and it'll all end up a waste of time. This technique obviously works for many modellers, however there is also the post-shade approach where a lighter colour is applied to various panels to hopefully achieve a similar affect. You may find one method works better for you than the other. 

 

Cheers.. Dave 

[Greenshirt]

As Dave says, the process usually involves an even base coat to make the underlying Color as even and consistent as possible. Usually a final primer coat is sufficient. 
 

Then using a fine line, low psi, and highly thinned paint (10:1 or more) preshade each panel line. Make many passes to slowly build up the preshade. Once happy with that, then also using highly thinned color coats, spraying in an uneven manner to slowly build up the color until the color is both obvious but translucent enough to still just barely see the preshaded panel lines. If you go too far, represhade, then restart the color. 
 

It takes lots of practice to be able to do it easily, but it always takes too long for me personally so I just apply color coats as I always have. I did try it once and it did look nice, but a 5 minute paint job took hours. 
 

Tim

[NorthBayKid]

It requires some finesse in applying both the "pre-shading" and the top coat.  I tend to do too much touching up of the final coat to make it worth bothering with, and I find it to look very unrealistic in most cases anyway.  I find that going back and subtly fading certain areas with a lighter shade (randomly, not evenly along every single panel line), added to subtle panel shading with an oil wash and even more subtle paint chipping, tends to yield a more realistic look.  Pre-shading seems to be a fad in the past few years.

[Seawinder]

I think pre-shading works okay if the main color is light, but I tend to use what I guess is called post-shading: I apply the main paint coat, then I apply black (or whatever) along the panel lines with a fine tip airbrush (Paasche VJR-1), then I go back with the main color and cover as much of the black as I wish.

 

Actually, I've been using the technique less often lately as I've been getting acquainted with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color. I find I can get nearly the same results by applying the Accent Color and then going over it with cotton swabs dipped in mineral spirits. Depending on how much thinner you put on the swab, which direction you wipe relative to the panel line, and how long you use the swab (which absorbs and then spreads the Accent Color) before replacing it, you can get more or less grunge both in the line and on each side of it.

[Ranger I Pct 4]

Thanks, guys. It does seem to be tedious and requires a lot of practice. I might give it a try on some extra styrene, but then again, possibly use post shading techniques to not mess up. Y'all helped me out a lot. Thank you!

[Duncan B]

I use pre and post shading on my builds. I don't faff about though, the pre-shading goes on in one pass over the primer. It doesn't have to be particularly neat either as all you are looking for once the top colours are on is the very faintest of hints that it is there otherwise it looks too contrived and unatural. I post shade with lighter and darker tones of the top colours, this does take more time and effort though or else you run the risk of ruining the whole thing. I use very thin mixes of each and the idea here is to break up the interior of the panels (whereas the pre-shading has been applied around the edges of the panels). 

The new kid on the block with regards to pre-shading is 'black basing' where the primer is a solid black and then you 'fill in' the panels with your colours. I have only tried it once and it worked well enough. It is easier to work than the above methods as you don't have to be so precise with your top colours so if you are a beginner or less experienced with an airbrush you can still get reasonable shading without the faffing.

Each to their own is the the thing as not every technique is required or even necessary depending on the individual's taste. Give them all a go and see how you get on.

I hope that helps.

 

Duncan B