White Paint

[paul1234]

Hi Everyone

 

I seem to have a problem when it comes to air brushing white paint, I'm left with a rough almost gritty finish.

 

I've tried different brands of paint, Tamiya, Mr Colour etc along with the thinners they recomend, and used a primer.                                                                                                                                                           I've increased and decreased the pressure and distance I spray from but still end up with a bad finish.

White is the only colour I have a problem with, I have used a spray can for larger areas and that is fine but for smaller and hard to get at areas air brushing is the only way.

 

Someone did say to use a retardant but not sure how much to add to the mix.

 

Thank you 

[dogsbody]

I am not an airbrush user so I'm not speaking from experience, but I have read here and on other forums about this problem.

It could be caused by spraying from too far away from the surface, allowing the paint to partially dry mid-flight, causing the pebbling.

Another reason could be that the paint hasn't been thinned enough.

Another could be you are using too high a pressure when spraying.

 

Other than that, I haven't a clue. Hopefully, others with much more knowledge on the subject will be by soon to assist you.

 

Also, I heard any white paint can be a P.I.T.A. to use.

 

 

 

Chris

[Roger Newsome]

I use Tamiya and Mr Hobby/ Color paints and the best results I've had is by spraying the lightest grey you've got as an undercoat and then spraying extremely thinned white on top of that when it's dry.

Roger. 

[paul1234]

9 hours ago, dogsbody said:

I am not an airbrush user so I'm not speaking from experience, but I have read here and on other forums about this problem.

It could be caused by spraying from too far away from the surface, allowing the paint to partially dry mid-flight, causing the pebbling.

Another reason could be that the paint hasn't been thinned enough.

Another could be you are using too high a pressure when spraying.

 

Other than that, I haven't a clue. Hopefully, others with much more knowledge on the subject will be by soon to assist you.

 

Also, I heard any white paint can be a P.I.T.A. to use.

 

 

 

Chris

Thanks Chris

I have tried all the above but I’m thinking it’s more luck than anything else and as you said I have been told white is a pain to work with.

thanks for your reply 

[Vingtor]

I don't have problems air brushing white paint. But, especially gloss paint, has to be applied "wet". I always apply a coat of matt white first, as it covers better than gloss white.

 

I find the Tamiya rattle can white primer and TS-26 Pure White nice to work with. I decant the paint through a straw into a small cup, wait for some 15 minutes to let the air bubble out, and then straight into the airbrush cup. Also the new Tamiya lacquers are easy to work with.

 

Nils

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

I always airbrush white straight onto whatever I'm covering; often a solid black base which I use to check my fit. Solvent dispersible paints behave very differently (i.e. they can go on thinner and wetter and not pool up under their own surface tension) but nice and thin with lots of mist coats one after the other is the way I do it. The mist coats flash off so fast that this doesn't end up taking a long time overall - you just keep moving and come back to the beginning for another pass when you reach the end.

 

No complaints about rough finishes here either...

 

 

 

 

 

I spray these paints at around 15psi, thinned 50/50 with naptha (cellulose works fine too if you don't mind the smell which anyone using lacquer acrylics is by default ok with - just avoid white spirit or household turpentine substitute unless you like combining strong smells with drying times only a geologist would consider "quick") based thinner, and through a 0.2 or 0.3mm nozzle. Dual action, internal mix airbrush also. Typical temperatures where I work are around 21deg C.  The nozzle is typically between 1/2" and 3" from the model, and the needle valve just cracked open. Don't flood the paint on, be patient, and he colour density will build up nice and solid before you know it.

[paul1234]

8 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

I always airbrush white straight onto whatever I'm covering; often a solid black base which I use to check my fit. Solvent dispersible paints behave very differently (i.e. they can go on thinner and wetter and not pool up under their own surface tension) but nice and thin with lots of mist coats one after the other is the way I do it. The mist coats flash off so fast that this doesn't end up taking a long time overall - you just keep moving and come back to the beginning for another pass when you reach the end.

 

No complaints about rough finishes here either...

 

 

 

 

 

I spray these paints at around 15psi, thinned 50/50 with naptha (cellulose works fine too if you don't mind the smell which anyone using lacquer acrylics is by default ok with - just avoid white spirit or household turpentine substitute unless you like combining strong smells with drying times only a geologist would consider "quick") based thinner, and through a 0.2 or 0.3mm nozzle. Dual action, internal mix airbrush also. Typical temperatures where I work are around 21deg C.  The nozzle is typically between 1/2" and 3" from the model, and the needle valve just cracked open. Don't flood the paint on, be patient, and he colour density will build up nice and solid before you know it.

Hi Jamie

Thank you for the advice, as I’m using Tamiya acrylic white I’m also using Tamiya thinners, would you recommend their thinners ?

I am using a 0.2 needle with a pressure of 15 psi 

 

Thank again 

[paul1234]

9 hours ago, Vingtor said:

I don't have problems air brushing white paint. But, especially gloss paint, has to be applied "wet". I always apply a coat of matt white first, as it covers better than gloss white.

 

I find the Tamiya rattle can white primer and TS-26 Pure White nice to work with. I decant the paint through a straw into a small cup, wait for some 15 minutes to let the air bubble out, and then straight into the airbrush cup. Also the new Tamiya lacquers are easy to work with.

 

Nils

Thank you Nils 

I have tried the white rattle can over a light grey primer, but it didn’t seem to cover that well on some of the raised detail, I think now it was because I may have not put the white on with lighter coats.

[dnl42]

Gritty finish and white paint coverage are two different topics. 

 

In my experience, gritty airbrushed paint is a technique issue. I use Mr Color. I thin to the consistency of 1% milk or a little thinner. I spray at 15 psi, ~1 atm. Distance is 0.25in to 2in. Paint should hit the surface slightly wet. Mr Color is a lacquer so it dries immediately. If the paint doesn't hit the surface wet, you're going to get an orange peel or gritty finish. Way too far and you get a poorly adhering powdery finish. 

 

Gloss white and yellow coverage is a different technique issue. You first need to build full color coverage before you apply a final wet coat to get that glossy finish. I first apply thin coats to build full coverage. Using a flat white to build coverage before switching to a final wet gloss coat is easier than using gloss paint for the whole gloss white or yellow finish. 

 

I always apply paint in thin layers regardless of sheen. 

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

1 hour ago, paul1234 said:

Hi Jamie

Thank you for the advice, as I’m using Tamiya acrylic white I’m also using Tamiya thinners, would you recommend their thinners ?

I am using a 0.2 needle with a pressure of 15 psi 

 

Thank again 

 

Yeah stick with their own thinners which is always a good practise - but maybe try spraying closer to the subject with less needle valve opening?

[paul1234]

2 hours ago, dnl42 said:

Gritty finish and white paint coverage are two different topics. 

 

In my experience, gritty airbrushed paint is a technique issue. I use Mr Color. I thin to the consistency of 1% milk or a little thinner. I spray at 15 psi, ~1 atm. Distance is 0.25in to 2in. Paint should hit the surface slightly wet. Mr Color is a lacquer so it dries immediately. If the paint doesn't hit the surface wet, you're going to get an orange peel or gritty finish. Way too far and you get a poorly adhering powdery finish. 

 

Gloss white and yellow coverage is a different technique issue. You first need to build full color coverage before you apply a final wet coat to get that glossy finish. I first apply thin coats to build full coverage. Using a flat white to build coverage before switching to a final wet gloss coat is easier than using gloss paint for the whole gloss white or yellow finish. 

 

I always apply paint in thin layers regardless of sheen. 

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

Thank you for the interesting information most helpful 

[paul1234]

2 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

 

Yeah stick with their own thinners which is always a good practise - but maybe try spraying closer to the subject with less needle valve opening?

Thanks again 

As you say build up with very fine coats and a little closer.

one last question would a retardant help ? And if so how much would you add 

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

On 1/21/2020 at 8:19 PM, paul1234 said:

Thanks again 

As you say build up with very fine coats and a little closer.

one last question would a retardant help ? And if so how much would you add 

 

It could do, but I cannot help there with any specific advice. I gave up on acrylics some years ago.

 

Others would be better placed to advise on how to get consistent results from them.