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Hasegawa 1:24 Lamborghini Miura


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Taking a little break from the F1 cars and building something from my dream garage. This is the Hasegawa 1:24 Lamborghini Miura SV. It's the original red molded kit that I primed and changed to metallic green. I really liked this kit - proportions look great and the wheels are beautifully detailed. Foil transfer emblems also do a great job of enhancing the exterior of the kit. The only issues with the kit were some light sink marks around the headlights that I was able to level with some Tamiya Liquid Primer. Built box stock.

 

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The colour is Mr. Color Metallic Green #77 which was then clearcoated with GX100 Super Clear. It has a bit of a pearl in it which changes the colour depending on the light source - it can get very turquoise in some light and very green in natural light. I was trying to match one of the first factory restorations that Lamborghini's Polo Storico did. I think the metallic pigment is a good size for this scale, but my primer base could have been sanded smoother - the roughness of the primer showed up a bit more than I thought it would in the metallic.

 

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I stripped the chrome off the wheels and knockoffs, painted the wheels aluminum and used Alclad polished aluminum for the knockoffs. I love the wheel design and Hasegawa did a fantastic job replicating them.

 

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Window trim was all done in Bare Metal Foil with a Molotow Liquid Chrome pen for some of the chrome details like washer nozzles and door handles.

 

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There's half an engine in the kit, but it's all but invisible once you put the body on - you can just barely see the white air filters through the louvers and the glass at the back of the interior.

 

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Here's the interior before it went behind the glass.

 

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Interior was painted with Vallejo Air Golden Brown and Sand Beige. I used embossing powder for the carpet which was then painted but I feel it looks a bit too 'sandy' as opposed to fluffy. It looks okay through the glass. Some nice touches from the Hasegawa kit here including the foil transfer for the shift gate.

 

I've been doing the grey background studio style shots for my builds so far but thought I would try some photographic backdrops to see how the model would look on 'location'. I found a few hi-res photo backgrounds online and then went to the 5 storey parkade next to my office and took photos of the pavement and sidewalk from above. I printed them out, mounted them on some foamcore and set them up as ground and background. I'm enjoying the photography as much as the build - I think my favourite part is seeing the reflection of the environment in the gloss of the body.

 

Downtown location:

 

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At the parkade:

 

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Some back street in France maybe:

 

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And a shot of my elaborate outdoor studio: 😉

 

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Thanks for looking, comments, questions and critiques always welcome.

 

Martin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Martin, that's a fantastic build. I'm not very much into the supercar thing and I usually couldn't tell what's what if my life depended on it so from the title I didn't know what to expect, but it's a gorgeous car. The colour you've chosen is really beautiful and the interior is lovely. I can understand your remarks about the primer finish and the interior floor, but it does not subtract from the build in any way in my opinion. And your photo's look absolutely amazing, what a nice idea. I'm making a mental note of that one... 

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This is probably the best 1/24 scale car I've ever seen. Just wow. Beautiful car, perfect execution. Can't believe it is a model.

 

Would you mind telling some more about your photography setup? And what do you do to the clear parts to get them so glossy?

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Thanks to all for the great comments - really appreciated.

 

1 hour ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

Would you mind telling some more about your photography setup? And what do you do to the clear parts to get them so glossy?

The last shot of the post there shows how simple the backgrounds are - a printout for the ground and one for the backdrop - mounted on foamcore to keep them flat. If you look at the first location shot of the downtown building, you can see that I printed out extra sidewalk and folded it around a piece of 1/8" foamcore so that the sidewalk has dimension. The trick for the backgrounds is that they really can't contain any perspective - they need to be almost completely flat so that when you're moving the camera to different angles, the perspective still works. You also need to make sure the photo you're using behind has all the horizontal lines completely horizontal and the verticals vertical.

 

As for camera, I'm using my 8 year old Canon T3i. All of the 'location' shots are just using overcast daylight in my backyard. The studio shots are on a piece of grey paper and I'm using a Canon Speedlight flash bounced of the white ceiling of the room to give a nice softbox effect. 

 

The clear parts were polished with Tamiya Finish Compound but I didn't wet sand them or coat them with anything.

 

Martin.

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As others have said, superb photography and a fantastic and very creative setup. And I don’t need to go into how fabulous that build is.....

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Lovely build Martin - you're an artist, photographer and modeler. Beautiful presentations all.

But too small.:whip:

Your skills should be put to the 1/8 scale level.

I too love photo presentations of good models. Here's how my Rolls found a coachbuilding shop. Scaled from a local old garage in town:

PORTRAIT-SET-UP.jpg

 

17-R.jpg

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Thanks again.

 

1 hour ago, Codger said:

Your skills should be put to the 1/8 scale level.

Don't tempt me, I have a 1/8 Pocher Mercedes 540K that's been sitting in my closet for a long time. That garage looks great by the way - nice to have that as a backdrop.

 

Martin.

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2 minutes ago, gt6mkiii said:

Thanks again.

 

Don't tempt me, I have a 1/8 Pocher Mercedes 540K that's been sitting in my closet for a long time. That garage looks great by the way - nice to have that as a backdrop.

 

Martin.

I AM tempting you. Please-get it out of cold storage and bring it to life. Plenty of Pocher Benz help on the site if you need it. Larchiefeng for one!

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19 hours ago, gt6mkiii said:

As for camera, I'm using my 8 year old Canon T3i. All of the 'location' shots are just using overcast daylight in my backyard. The studio shots are on a piece of grey paper and I'm using a Canon Speedlight flash bounced of the white ceiling of the room to give a nice softbox effect. 

The backdrops were clear to me from the picture, but thanks for elaborating. The equipment and technique of taking the pictures I was after. Sorry for not being clear about that. Equipment is defined now. Glad it's not the latest iPhone or equivalent.

 

What lens / apperture do you use? I have some nice equipment to play with, but while managing to take macro shots in nature easily I struggle to get figures and models just right. I use a diffusor for my flash usually, but using a reflector for bouncing of I didn't think of. It's just logical, when I think of it. Ah well..

 

I'd be glad to get some tips on that topic, If you don't mind.

 

Thank you!

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39 minutes ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

The equipment and technique of taking the pictures I was after. Sorry for not being clear about that.

No problem, it's always hard to guess how detailed people want to get.

 

30 minutes ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

What lens / apperture do you use?

 

I'm using a 18-55mm lens that came with my camera kit. One thing I do though is to use a smaller aperture to increase the depth of field. Most full-size car photography has the entire vehicle in focus unless it's a more 'arty' detail shot. I'm usually between f18 and f22 which extends the depth of field. It does however require a lot of light to keep the ISO at a reasonable level - I shot all of these photos handheld at 1/40 sec but the ISO was as high as 1600 so I'm getting more noise than I would like. I think for my next shoot, I'll probably switch to a tripod and a longer exposure and get the ISO back to 100. The other thing about the lens would be that I find being too wide-angle distorts the car too much - the shots that look the most convincing to me are usually in 35-45mm range - I haven't quite found the exact sweet spot yet. 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Martin.

 

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Thank you, Martin.

 

That helps a lot. My mistake is probably working with a too shallow depth of field from too far away. My goto is an 100mm macro, equals about 160mm with my camera (Konica-Minolta Dynax 7D). Since it's by far the best lens I own I rarely change it. This of course dictates a huge distance to the object. Maybe I should try and hunt down an equally nice shorter lens. The kit lenses are quite poor quality, and my other glasses are far more into the longer ranges.

 

I'm the guy for the "arty" detail shots - this is what I usually do and what I am comfortable with.

 

Again, thank you.

 

Jan

 

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59 minutes ago, gt6mkiii said:

 the shots that look the most convincing to me are usually in 35-45mm range - I haven't quite found the exact sweet spot yet.

That sounds about right -- on a "full frame" digital camera 45mm or so approximates the field of view of a human eye, and on the more standard APS-C digital sensor (which is smaller) you need around 35mm. I try to get the exposure to f/32, with ISO 200: I put the camera on a tripod, and use the 2 second timer setting instead of a remote release, to stop me jiggling the camera with a 1/2 second or longer exposure...

best,

M.

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3 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

I try to get the exposure to f/32, with ISO 200: I put the camera on a tripod, and use the 2 second timer setting instead of a remote release, to stop me jiggling the camera with a 1/2 second or longer exposure...

That's the way to go - low ISO numbers make such a difference on my camera.

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