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The graceful Yokosuka Ginga Japanese twin engined bomber (Hasegawa 1/72)


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1. Folding the Eduard seatbelts prior to painting. 


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2. The result shown in the next image will prove to be wrong.. 


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3. If you're going to build this kit, di purchase the Eduard masking set. Six stickers for this part alone... 


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4. No jury awards for this kit, as the bomb bay will be shut. I thought there's already plenty of model planes with open bonnets / inspection covers / bay doors / gear doors etc. I'll instead focus on the beautiful lining of this plane.


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5. The pre-painted photo etch pieces have an unnatural shine to them. This will be corrected later using oil paint. 


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6. Coming back to #3, here are two of the six stickers in situ. 


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7. Some are not large.


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8. All six in place.. I thought.


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9. But blessed be macro photography! I changed my mind when I saw the above picture and corrected the position of one sticker. 

 

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10. As mentioned before, the 'side panels' are wrong as they interfere with the 'wing tabs' which will go here: 


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11. Dryfitting, marking and cutting with Xuron through the brass. 


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12. On the next photo the brass is cut to shape. 


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13. Mind the little desktop though, designed by Yokosuka engineers to enable pilots to solve sudokus and draw manga figures during calm flights. Next photo shows that the desktop straight versus the pilot's instruments as well as at the right height. 


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14. Eduard put this wrong in their instructions though. Photo hereunder shows (1) the actual situation; (2) how Eduard thinks it should be; (2) how I think it should be implemented into the kit (3). Some changes needed to be made. 


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Thanks for the likes fellows. 

 

15. The interior is ready to be washed, safe some belts, the instruments and some minor scratch work. 


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1. Panels with instruments for the pilot. 

2. Instrument panel to the right consists of four photo etched metal parts. The part alongside the instrument panel is detached (attachment point was almost absent). 

3. Belts for the pilot. Both other sets I'll leave for later, as I don't feel like bending them now ;)

4. This little thing remains from the instrument panel part included in the kit. It's what photo etch part 2. will be attached to. 

5. Belt for the rear seat. 

 


16. I wanted to get an impression of how well all interior detail would be visible with the glassworks in place. After a first dryfit session I dipped the three transparent parts into QuickShine. Here it shows what's necessary: glass jar to pour QuickShine into; some tape to hang the parts to dry; and a piece of absorbing paper to fetch that last drop of QuickShine. 


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17. Result before and after. 


Before:
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and after the dip:
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20. I'll only add a little bit of detail. Like the back of this instrument panel, which will be visible (you'd have to peek though) and would otherwise remain non-detailed. 

 

Used stuff: piece of plasticard, some pieces of Evergreen tube and some copper and lead wire. These are converted into wire harnesses by simply folding them a few times. 


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21. An hour and a half of work... tried to work quicker but failed :)  


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22. Compared to the front: 


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These parts will be eventually glued together. 

 

23. Four subassemblies, degreased, holes drilled, primed. 

 

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24. Fifty-five Eduard stickers... glad I got this piece of aftermarket aid! Masking fluid (or tape) yet has to be added on the insect-like 'glass eyes' that remain. In case I'll use Humbrol Maskol I'll apply it just before painting the canopies, because I'll try to leave the fluid on for a maximum of a few days (three at the most), to prevent the Maskol from damaging the transparant parts. 


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Six stickers remain, for the three wheels. Very attentive of Eduard! 


Spent time: 14,5 hours.

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Thanks for the likes gents. 

 

25. After sanding the primer and painting the cockpit (Tamiya XF71) I added dirt and shadows using three oil paints. The coloured photo etch parts now have almost the same tone as the rest of the interior. 

 

Left: dirty part; right: clean part. 

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26. When I saw the photo I decided to take off some of the dirt. Easy with oil paints. 

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Here the little screen before and after removal of the final masking sticker. 

 

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28. Here the belts and levers in situ. Eduard provided for twice the required amount of levers, in case tweezers would launch some. 

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Zoomed (see paragraph 31):

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29. Instrument panel in place, body halves joined. 

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31. By the way, all photos in this topic can be zoomed in. Click on them three times. For example the last photo then looks like this: 

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33. Wire harness is visible, when shining on it with a lamp. This makes for unnatural colours on this photo (for example the part left front is bare metal) but well you get the idea. 

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Spent time: 17,5 hours

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Hi Thom, glad to have a reply to my thread, welcome and hope you enjoy reading through it :) 

 

Yes in 1/48 this would be a great subject. It's a beautifully lined plane, that's for sure. 

 

Some thinning work... 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Nice progress. I agree with keeping things closed up to focus on the shape of the plane. Is this one of Hasegawa's more recent offerings?

 

J.

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Hi Jason, it's a newly issued kit but the moulds are from 1995. Excellent quality though... only thing wrong is the gear bases... one is not perfectly symmetrical to the other. That would make the plane sit slightly angled, as seen from the front:

 

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Solution is rather straightforward and easy: 

 

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Other than that, it's a jewel of a kit. 

 

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Milling the exhaust holes. 

 

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Making the oil cooler exhaust opening is especially rewarding. 

 

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The engines in full sight. 

 

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With cowlings on... reduced visibility of the engines. 

 

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Ok no comment haha

 

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But it was fun detailing the engines. Time for one more feel-good dryfit before the bonnets are glued on.

 

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I'm glad there's finally a start to some activity in this topic... a few posts here and there, likes and more views. Good! I understand this is not your everyday BF109 or Hurricane, so I appreciate the rising interest. 

 

Priming and sanding. 

 

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Night fighter clothing... 

 

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Sanding the black, as there were many dust particles drawn onto the highly sticky black paint. Left wing (=right on photo) sanded. 

 

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And the first phase of the oil canning. Tension rises! How would the final looks of this plane become? 

 

Atypical preshading cloud-style. 

 

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Next: after varnishing, applying green paint for the top half of the plane. 

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Just had a read through, loving your work here!  I don’t think we see enough Japanese subjects on here, I don’t want to speculate on why that might be.

 

AW

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Very nice! The PE makes a huge difference, well worth the extra expense in my opinion. As for the fact that it's not a Hurricane or ME109, that only makes it more interesting!

 

Ian

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Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments! They always work motivational for me :)

 

Taping... 

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Tamiya XF70.

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Starting the oil canning (OC).

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You'll really have to look close to notice: 

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Zoomed: 

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In action

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View in daylight.

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More contrast for the outer part (test). This looks better so I'll bring them in correspondence with one another, tending towards the outer part. 

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Zoom-in: 

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Meanwhile the final details are not forgotten. Tyres: Vallejo Model Air 57 (black) with some white, ratio 20:1. 

Propellers: Vallejo model Air 71.038 (camouflage brown with 71.003 (scarlet red), ratio 10:3. 

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Spent time thus far: 58 hours. 

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For reference: the oil canning effect on a Yokosuka Ginga. 

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Before the final step in the process (getting rid of the sharp edges and contrasts): 

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As well as the last step having taken place: 

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Before and after: 
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Symmetrical workflow: 

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Masking sharp 'corners', you can use a punch & die. Nacelle to the right already masked. 

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In front with, behind without OC. 84. 

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Propellers in dryfit. 

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But unless you look closely, you just can't see the effect (lol): 

 

 

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Several things yet to be done... but approaching the end of this build. 

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