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Faraway

To dip or not to dip ?

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First I apologise to admin if this in in the wrong place, but I’ve searched the forum and can find no where to post this question.

I’m currently building the Tamiya P38 Lightning (most excellent kit by the way, almost doesn’t need glue). When I get to the canopy, I’m hoping to dip it in a Klear like liquid, to give it a better shine. Also of course I’m going to have to paint the frame work, that won’t be too difficult, as I have a sheet of masking stickers. But, if I mask the canopy then paint the frame, then remove the masking and dip, all my matt paint will go glossy. Not good.

So, do you reckon I can dip before masking and painting ? Presumably, the ‘Klear’ will not interfere with the paint or masking material.

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Faraway,

To be honest, I've never dipped or clear coated my kit canopies. I've always buffed them out with a mild rubbing compound such as color back. It takes the imperfections out and gives a great shine. I've also used it on the kit to take out any sanding marks and helps at least for oil based paints to adhere. Just my thought, I'm very old school. Sorry this doesn't help on your question.

 

All The Best,

Ron VanDerwarker

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1 minute ago, f111guru said:

Faraway,

To be honest, I've never dipped or clear coated my kit canopies. I've always buffed them out with a mild rubbing compound such as color back. It takes the imperfections out and gives a great shine. I've also used it on the kit to take out any sanding marks and helps at least for oil based paints to adhere. Just my thought, I'm very old school. Sorry this doesn't help on your question.

 

All The Best,

Ron VanDerwarker

As you say, it doesn’t answer my question. But you have given me food for thought, in that, the canopy with the kit is of quite a high standard already. So maybe a polish will suffice. I might try the dip, mask and paint on a spare part and see what happens.

Many thanks for the answer.

Jon

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Clear coating shouldn’t interfere with painting. However, it is possible the masking would leave an impression on the clear portions upon removal. This would be a function of what you used for clear coating, how thoroughly it cured, and the adhesive masking. As you suggest, test first

Edited by Chuck1945
Fix typo

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35 minutes ago, Faraway said:

So, do you reckon I can dip before masking and painting ?

That's what I do when I can be bothered to dip, but it needs to dry for at least one day before you attempt to mask (preferably more). Also, I sometimes give it another quick dip after the masks are on, which helps reduce the paint bleeding underneath the masks. This does make it a little more difficult to get the masks off at the end.

When you say 'Klear like liquid' what do you mean?

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See if these help. You definitely need to cover the transparencies while they dry, as you don't want any dust falling on them and getting attached to the parts you are treating. You can mask and paint framework after the parts are completely dry- I have not had any issues with masking/Kabuki tape or masking sets pulling up paint that has been applied on canopies that have been coated.

Mike

 

https://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2005/09/stuff_eng_tech_canopies.htm

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRy23kThes8

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ooir8nyZqM4

 

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7 minutes ago, Gorby said:

That's what I do when I can be bothered to dip, but it needs to dry for at least one day before you attempt to mask (preferably more). Also, I sometimes give it another quick dip after the masks are on, which helps reduce the paint bleeding underneath the masks. This does make it a little more difficult to get the masks off at the end.

When you say 'Klear like liquid' what do you mean?

This stuff https://www.lakeland.co.uk/20286/Quick-Shine-Floor-Finish-800ml 

I’ve used it on an armoured car to stop the decals silvering and it worked well.

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My last build, a Tamiya 1/72 Zero was the first time I have had any success with dipping prior to painting.

I used this,

https://ak-interactive.com/product/gauzy-agent-glass-coat/

The critical part is to be patient and leave it a couple of days to harden before masking.

Once the masks were on I airbrushed a coat of Mr Hobby Gloss coat to seal them, again, I left it alone for a couple days to cure properly before applying the canopy interior colour. In my case being a bit more patient brought better results.

Hope this helps.

Roger. 

 

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I always use Future (or Klear) on my canopies - I use Zap-a-gap to attach, and it prevents fogging.  I have found that if I cut the future 10-20% with water, I get a much better finish, and leave them dry for 2-4 days to harden, and the masking material leaves no marks at all. If you mask sooner than that, you will end up stripping them and starting over! (ask me how I know!)

 

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38 minutes ago, Tail-Dragon said:

I always use Future (or Klear) on my canopies - I use Zap-a-gap to attach, and it prevents fogging.  I have found that if I cut the future 10-20% with water, I get a much better finish, and leave them dry for 2-4 days to harden, and the masking material leaves no marks at all. If you mask sooner than that, you will end up stripping them and starting over! (ask me how I know!)

 

As far as I can figure out, we can’t get Future/Klear in the UK. Or at least I can’t find it.

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I dip in Future, allow to dry/cure overnight, mask and paint separately from the model, then attach with white/pva glue as it dries clear. It works every time.

 

This pic is my 1/72 Arma Hurricane with the canopies masked and painted with the interior colour and attached to the paint brush handle.

bTi8TUnl.jpg

 

And done.

pXnDuRfl.jpg

Edited by MarkH206

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4 hours ago, Faraway said:

As far as I can figure out, we can’t get Future/Klear in the UK. Or at least I can’t find it.

Can you get this where you are?

Mike

 

https://www.modelfix.co.uk/product/pledge-revive-it-finish-klear-magic-wash/

Edited by 72modeler
added link

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I always dip my clear parts in Klear and then leave them to dry in a lettuce saver for a few days and then apply masking before airbrushing. But make sure that you wick off as much Klear as possible otherwise it looks bad, I recently had a disaster doing this.

 

spacer.png

 

Here's another thread on the subject, it seems that Quick Shine floor polish from Lakeland is a replacement

Cheers

 

Dennis

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I dip canopies. Leave to dry on paper towel in a tupperware box, before masking and painting.

 

Back home I used Klear/Future. When I moved here I didn't bring it with me and subsequently had to use Scandinavia's equivalent of Pledge Multi Surface which is called Pledge Extra Protection. Recently though I stumbled upon some stuff here called Reflex Floor Protector and which I thought I'd try out and very pleased I am too. It gives easily as good a finish as original Klear and if truth be told I'm actually inclined to think it gives an even better finish and appearance. It's made by a Norwegian company and I have no idea where else it's available but if you stumble across it and you're a canopy dipper definitely pick some up, brilliant stuff.

 

spacer.png

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I'd be interested to know if all the various acrylic floor shine finishes are chemically similar. It's been a long time since Johnson & Johnson first started selling this in North America. Were they the first? Have others since then copied their formula and made their own?

 

 

 

Chris

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2 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

I'd be interested to know if all the various acrylic floor shine finishes are chemically similar. It's been a long time since Johnson & Johnson first started selling this in North America. Were they the first? Have others since then copied their formula and made their own?

 

 

 

Chris

 

That's an interesting question Chris. I think the most important thing initially is that is it an acrylic floor polish. The bits and bobs that are added afterwards to the mix probably make the difference between whether it's OK or excellent.

 

In that Norwegian Reflex one I posted above it's acrylic based with:

 

2- (2- butoksyetoksy) etanol 1-5% = (butoxyethoxy) ethanol

Ammoniakklosning <0,5 % = Ammonia solution

Sinkoksid <0,5 % = Zinc oxide

 

I have no idea how that stacks up against old Klear or some of the others but I've been playing around with it and if you twisted my arm I reckon it's better than the original stuff which I used for years.

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I just took a look at my old bottle of Future, to check the ingredients. It's so old they aren't listed!

 

48174323466_fb44e2b5bf_c.jpg

 

 

 

Chris

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9 hours ago, Faraway said:

So, do you reckon I can dip before masking and painting ? Presumably, the ‘Klear’ will not interfere with the paint or masking material.

I always dip before painting canopies, I've never had an issue in the many years I've done it. I use Future if that helps ? 

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle

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