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Danish Double Seater - 1/72 F-100F


reini

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Thats my first build up there, one I did a year a go - an Italeri Super Sabre. Was fun enough build to get me hooked again after a really long pause. I thought It would be fun to re-live that build with my current knowledge - but obviously with a twist, not gonna do the exact same build, but rather a Danish double seater.

 

 

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Here's the scheme. As far as I know, Danish Super Sabres were not NMF - but painted with aluminium paint, a rather dull and grey aluminium paint. Looking at the pics, first I thought they were painted ADC Grey as it was so grey. I can already imagine that bright red will look great against the aluminium and the heat stained rear end!

 

 

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Whats in the box. Simple stuff, only two sprues and the clear parts. Decals look still ok.

 

 

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Scheme and decals. This is the 1999 boxing of the kit.

 

 

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Details are okay, little bit soft maybe but considering this is a 1982 tooling, not bad at all.

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Rather simple clear parts. I had hoped to display the canopy open, but no luck.

 

 

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There are few things I'm hoping to do with this build - and one is scratchbuilding an intake tube. That is not a good look as it ends so sudden. Always a problem with these nose-intake planes. Not a big one - but still one that bugs me. No idea how I am gonna do it yet, but let's find out, shall we?

 

Other thing is that this build will be titled 'SPRING' and it will be displayed on a simple display base. Not a diorama but something to liven up the build a bit. This build will be followed by three other builds fitting the overall theme, but more about them once/if we get there! :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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29 minutes ago, Christer A said:

Tasty! I've seen pictures of all over green Danish Super Sabres that has the most worn finish this side of Greece :)

This will give a kick in the pants to finish my F-100F from the Specialist GB last year !

All green & worn scheme is great looking one too - that was applied later to these Super Sabres AFAIK.

 

Speaking of which, I'm on a subject here that I don't have very much knowledge or background material, so if anyone has those things and sees me doing something that I shouldn't be doing - please let me know! :D 

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welcome along Reini and a great choice, a lot of people have a soft spot for the F-100.

 

I for some reason thought the Danish F-100's were only that really faded green, but thinking about it now they would have been either NMF or paint aluminium when they first entered service.

 

The doesn't look too bad at all considering its age. You could always cheat and fit an intake cover?

 

Well good luck with her, I'm sure there'll be plenty of helpful advice available if you need it, looking forward to seeing her in the gallery.

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Yet another cool subject choice. This one will look great beside your USAF single seater in the dull oxidised alloy finish if you do go for that effect.

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Please, please, @reini, get a vac form canopy. You wont regret it.  The Italeri one is hopelessly in accurate. To do a Danish Twin Hun get the excellent DanMil publication too :). Also Reini - 1) get a nice resin jet pipe and fit in a cut out and sanded rear end, 2) check your time scale and wherher you subject had the wing fences removed, 3) cut out the intake and blank it out ahead of the cockpit, unless you want to build an internal duct, 4) get MB seats. For my F-100s I used wings from a Trumpeter so that you get the dropped LE slats. A fair bit of wrestling but it mskes it look great ;)

 

 

 

Martin

Edited by RidgeRunner
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On 15 January 2020 at 8:23 PM, Christer A said:

Tasty! I've seen pictures of all over green Danish Super Sabres that has the most worn finish this side of Greece :)

This will give a kick in the pants to finish my F-100F from the Specialist GB last year !

They werent all necessarily worn. Much of the panel line colouring was the result of overpainting with fresh paint. Certainly the earlier paints faded and got stained but after a while they got it "right" (one point of view ;) ) and it stayed shiney.

 

Martin

Edited by RidgeRunner
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@RidgeRunner Thanks for the helpful tips. Resin jet pipe already ordered! Also wheels & pitot. Have to check the seat if I have anything suitable.

 

What is the issue with the canopy - I was under the impression that the long double seater canopy would be OK, while the single seater was not? Have to check your thread and do more research! Thanks again :) 

 

I'm doing -63 plane as the Italeri decals suggest. When were the wing fences removed?

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Hi Reini @reini. I think the era that you are aiming for would still have had the wing fences. It also have been before the addition of the wing tip pods. Sorry - I forgot the wheels! The Italeri ones are very wrong! Regarding the canopy take a look yourself. If you are happy with it then go with it. The differences show, though, when you put the two side by side. As I recall, the Italeri is too shallow. Do you have a photo of your target aircraft?

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@RidgeRunner I'll have to closer look at the canopy, Hannants was out of stock.

 

Here is the plane in question: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/28/17/88/281788ac7a9557c52626e38a632dcaa5.jpg

 

Not sure about the date of that pic though. No wing fences as it seems. Italeri seems to be missing that emblem on tail.

 

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2 minutes ago, reini said:

@RidgeRunner I'll have to closer look at the canopy, Hannants was out of stock.

 

Here is the plane in question: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/28/17/88/281788ac7a9557c52626e38a632dcaa5.jpg

 

Not sure about the date of that pic though. No wing fences as it seems. Italeri seems to be missing that emblem on tail.

 

Okay, great, so ....

 

- it has wing fences

- you need MB Mk5 seats

- no wing tip pods

- original afterburner

 

Martin

 

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Yes, I'm sure. You can clearly see it. Co-incidentally it is at the same place as the tank fin so I understand your question. You might struggle to get the exact seats. I used as close as I could find - Mk4 (Mirage etc). The Aires jet pipe is good. The only negative is that is set on the open position whereas on the ground it would be closed. The detail is a vast improvement, though. 

 

An obvious feature of F-100s on the ground with hydraulics bled off, are the dropped LE slats. You could try cutting and rebuilding the Italeri. I havent tried. My solution was to use a Trumpeter kit. It slipped almost perfectly in place. I know that is a more expense option but, I think, it makes a big difference to the completed model. 

 

Martin

 

correction: The LE slats were aerodynamic. I had a brain failure when I wrote the above! :(. Thanks for resetting my dials, Wez ;)

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I've started - but haven't got far. It seems I have my work cut out for this build, no shortage of alterations, new parts, modifying parts etc. :)

 

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Like the canopy, I was perfectly happy with it until @RidgeRunner mentioned it! :P But it is quite obvious that the middle support is way too forward. The more you know... oh well, just gotta hunt down a new canopy :)

 

 

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I had a look at the jump seat also, and thought if I could scratch build one. I managed to get the basic frame down somewhat - until I realised that I was doing the wrong version of MB seat! Oh, it was too wide anyway - good practice. I think I will use the kit seats as basic frame and see if I can do something about them. If not, then just order MB Mk.4 seats if no Mk.5 are available like @RidgeRunner suggested.

 

This is starting to become a challenging build but no matter, this is what modelling is about :) 

 

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40 minutes ago, reini said:

Like the canopy, I was perfectly happy with it until @RidgeRunner mentioned it! :P

Oops, sorry mate ;). As you can see, it is quite out of shape and that framing is wrong. To me - my eyes? - it slopes away too much at the front too. It is still better than the Trumpeter, which is too long and a difficult fix.

 

Have fun :). It will be great once done. I have an Esci (virtually an Italeri) and Trumper D-models ready for a French build at some point. I am wonder whether to try to get the Trumper wrestled in to a correct shape rather than a hybrid as I had intended. I have plenty of time to think ....... ;)

 

Martin

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On 18/01/2020 at 08:05, RidgeRunner said:

An obvious feature of F-100s on the ground with hydraulics bled off, are the dropped LE slats. You could try cutting and rebuilding the Italeri. I havent tried. My solution was to use a Trumpeter kit. It slipped almost perfectly in place. I know that is a more expense option but, I think, it makes a big differenve to the completed model. 

Martin, I thought the LE slats were aerodynamic i.e its the airflow that keeps them shut rather than being hydraulic, the flaps on the other hand were hydraulic and they drooped as pressure dropped off.  You're right though, they are a very prominent feature of the aircraft when its on the ground.  Given the other faults with the Trumpeter kit which you've documented elsewhere it seems the best use of the kit, I shall have to take a look at that when I want to do a Hun in the future.

 

Reini,

 

The Mk5 seats were also used on early Phantoms and look similar to the Mk7 seats used on later Phantoms, I think the 7's were an upgrade to the 5's.

 

Not only is that canopy brace in the wrong place you can see the canopy is too shallow.

 

Plenty for you to fix, I'll be interested to see how you do it.

 

Good luck.

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Oops.... My error, Wez @Wez, and with my SMB2 in mind. Yes, they are aerodynamic, of course.... Doh! The flaps are never shown as drooped when parked, like most other jets of the time.....

 

Martin

 

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3 minutes ago, RidgeRunner said:

The flaps are never shown as drooped when parked, like most other jets of the time.....

I'll have to take a look at that at some point (when I have some time - I'm supposed to be doing an assignment not spending time on BM)!

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It sounds like you have a great Sunday ahead of you, Wez. ;). All for the good, though :).

 

It often baffles me why builds of types like F-100, F-105s, etc have the flaps dropped as they generally didnt in real life; not until the systems were energised and that then needs a build that shows that activity (in my view). 

 

Martin

 

 

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About the intake tube - I think @RidgeRunner was correct with his idea of simply opening the nose and blocking it further down on the cockpit.

 

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There is no room for any more fancy stuff like that and I'm not sure if it's needed anyway. I think we can create good enough illusion with just deepening the intake. Certainly miles better than the standard kit option.

 

 

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Rough hole carved out.

 

 

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Yes, I think this will work! :) 

 

 

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Smoothing down. I have to do the final touch ups when I join the fuselages and nose ring.

 

 

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Then I can move to the cockpit. This is what I have to work with - it is quite basic to put it mildly. It's not awful but it certainly could be better. We will see if I can do something about it.

 

 

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These are the kit seats - which are wrong ones for this build as I found out earlier. I will have another go at scratch building new seats - using these as base - and failing that, just order new ones. I really don't need the seats yet at this point of the build, but I want to see if I can make them as it takes a while to stuff to arrive should I need to order anything.

 

About ordering stuff, I've been looking at the Rob Taurus F-100F canopy: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RBT72016?result-token=kQoXF 

 

Is it just me - but isn't the middle frame too forward, just like in the kit part?

 

 

 

 

 

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It isnt the perfect solution, Reini, but it works. Then airbrush black in the far back, with a lighter (grey) colur more forward until you reach the point where the natual metal will show. That will give it some depth.  

5 minutes ago, reini said:

About ordering stuff, I've been looking at the Rob Taurus F-100F canopy: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RBT72016?result-token=kQoXF 

Thats the one, Reini!

 

You can get a seat (a Mk4 that looks okay) quite cheaply online.

 

Slowly, slowly ..... carefully, carefully ......  My motto but not always what I do! :(

 

Martin

 

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17 minutes ago, reini said:

Is it just me - but isn't the middle frame too forward, just like in the kit part?

No, it is right :). The kit has a bad combination of wrong position (slightly) for the frame, the wrong angle for the forward section and a general shallowness. You've done the right thing. :) 

 

Martin

 

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