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Bandai AT-AT (non-canon scheme!)😎


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1 hour ago, Bugle07 said:

Ahh, 'the game is afoo... no, I won't say it!  

 

Can I ask why you've got both the Glaze Medium and the Matt Varnish in the wash? Does it help it stick, as it were, or is there something else?

 

Looks great, just wondering tho. And the rusts coming along nicely. 

 

An impatient modeller? Isn't that ALL modellers? 

 

Geoff 

 

 

Sometimes the Vallejo Glaze Medium has a slight shine to it. Very slight though. However, I needed a very Matt surface for the pencils to get a grip to for some of the finer chips. (those pencils used are Faber - Castell Polychromos pencils that are a harder more durable pencil, not a water colour pencil. And are great for adding small chips. More on them later) So the Matt Varnish was to help with that. The wash  'formula' is still a work in progress, but I'm happy with it so far.

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Started adding shadows around some of the panels.............
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That white tide mark re-appeared after the Matisse drying retarder had dried! :frantic:
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I was going to have another go at getting rid of it, but I developed an eye strain headache, so that was the end of my modelling for today. :fraidnot:

I have a pretty good idea how to get rid of it..............................more tomorrow.

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13 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Who went for a paddle in the sea then?

This isn't a model of one of those AT-AT's on that sun, sand and beaches for pansy easy going types on Scarif! 🌴🏄‍♂️  This is a model of a hardened battle scarred AT-AT for hard core types💪, on the rocky jagered mountains and wadis of the Judland Wastes! 😜

 

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Managed to improve things a little. One lesson learned though, was not to use acrylic paint with the Glaze medium hoping to blend it like the Vallejo Model Washes! No no no no no! That didn't work the same at all! The Vallejo Model Wash must be an ink?? Not sure?

Used that mix in the offending area of the white tide mark, only to realise immediately after that it wouldn't blend-out like the Vallejo Model Wash does! 😵

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Much happier with the shadows emphasizing the paneling along the bottom edge around the foot. This was done with various darker AK Interactive pencils liquefied with water and then mixed with a little Matisse Drying Retarder. This mix was painted along the edge of the panel, then blended with another small brush and Matisse Drying Retarder. (⬅️ I love this stuff!!)

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Keep in mind looking at these photos that the foot is only 30mm across. 🧐

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Now.............................on with more weathering layers! :hobbyhorse:

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5 minutes ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Thinking about it, that could be a place where mud etc would tend to stick until washed off. Maybe some chunky brown gunge would hide the problem.

Actually I remember seeing somewhere??? :shrug: that that part of the foot depresses down into the base of the foot as weight is brought down on it. Wish I could recall where I saw that? So yeah, it would tend to be quite grungy around that area.

Oh and Happy Birthday Pete! :party: :cake:

Edited by Gekko_1
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3 minutes ago, Gekko_1 said:

Actually I remember seeing somewhere??? :shrug: that that part of the foot depresses down into the base of the foot as weight is brought down on it. Wish I could recall where I saw that?

Is it during the attack on Hoth?

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13 minutes ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Is it during the attack on Hoth?

No......................I think it was at the beginning of a YouTube Star Wars show?

However, I just watched the AT-AT attack on Hoth (as you suggested) on YouTube @ 4K ............................

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esdnOSo2-sY

.............................. and YES! One can quite clearly see the top of the foot depress down into the bottom of the foot! :clap: So that sorts out that little issue!

 

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OK, so now I'm trying to replicate the run-off of dust, dirt fluids etc from the center section. Using AK Interactive pencils dry for this first step.

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Next the pencil was blended with Matisse Drying Retarder. I let that dry for a day then sprayed Tamiya rattle can TS-80 Flat Clear. After letting that dry for about half a day I began chipping the toes and edges of the foot with Faber-Castell Pitt artist pen Cold Grey VI 235.

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After doing this step I discovered by accident that one can blend the Faber-Castell Pitt artist pen with Matisse Drying Retarder too! However this was NOT what I wanted to do at this stage as it was chipping, so I wanted a hard edge. HOWEVER! I will be experimenting with this serendipitous (yes that's a big word and yes I had to look it up!) discovery tomorrow! 😜

The Faber-Castell Pitt artist pen dries with a slightly semi gloss finish so I will be giving it another rattle can Matt coat later today.

The initial trial of run-off of dust, dirt fluids etc from the center section with pencil proved to be too faint this time around, so after the Matt coat has sufficiently dried I will be trying that again.

Oh, and before I forget, again, I've found the new AK Interactive 3rd generation paint and pencils to both be very very good and worth the investment!
 

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And we continue!

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Is this sort of thing useful? Am I presenting my theories/explanations and experiments in a way that is easy to understand? I would appreciate some feedback at this stage as I'm considering creating a book and wonder if people would like this sort of thing??

Cheers

Richard.

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1 hour ago, Gekko_1 said:

Is this sort of thing useful?

Richard, I think you're doing a great job in educating anyone who wanders past this thread. 

I did some simple pencil weathering on my Sternail build and liked what happened. Keep it coming, but keep it simple.

Pete

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The information you give is very valuable, so yeah - I like your presentation.

 

I don't think you need to specify every single streak and chip in all detail. This gets repetitive very fast. A general explanation of how to do a streak and blend it in and a list of materials that you used for that would be enough. Same goes for chipping. Maybe a explanation why specific colours / methods were used to take the reader into your path of thinking.

If you want to go into fine details just list the colours used for a single element in the pictures, making them simpler to use as reference for specific effects.

 

HTH

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3 hours ago, Gekko_1 said:

Is this sort of thing useful?

3 hours ago, Gekko_1 said:

I would appreciate some feedback at this stage as I'm considering creating a book and wonder if people would like this sort of thing?

The learning process is quite helpful, my deepest apologies for not writing much. Sometimes I don't want to write something short as it can come across as not sincere. I do read every post and try to absorb everything. Someday when I can actually afford the materials and a proper kit to try them on I will. Until then I can but dream.

 

Dennis

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The information and the way you're presenting the process is great Richard. 

 

Clear and simple pics and text make it easy to understand and see what you're working on. 

 

I think the flow of a book is completely different to the flow of a wip or build log. 

 

Thinking about this from a book point of view as opposed to a build point of view, you could go into each process in detail each time it's first used. But you don't need to repeat yourself the next time you use the technique, you can just reference the reader back to page x. (Unlike a build log, please keep posting all the info and work your doing on here!)

 

That would free up more time (for you, whilst writing it) and space for other things, like musings on camouflage or weathering products, and it would also keep the flow of the book moving forward.

 

Just my tuppence worth, (maybe pennysworth).

 

Keep it coming, loving the work.

 

Geoff 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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