Mr Hobby paints & clear coat compatability question

[Filler]

I've been reading a few threads on here, looking on the retailers sites, GSI's site and even YouTube, but I am still not certain on which clear coats I can use.

 

So I use largely Mr Hobby Aqueous paints that I thin using Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner. I have previously brushed Klear onto my models before and after decaling.

 

I'd like to start using my airbrush to do this and I'd like to know for sure what clear gloss coat to use. I had all but decided on the Mr Hobby Mr Color Super Clear III GX-100, but I now have read something that makes me think that it might attack/dissolve the Mr Hobby Aqueous paint underneath.

 

Could also do with knowing the appropriate flat coat as well. Again I was thinking of GX-114 Super Smooth Clear Flat, but again, is this non compatible with Mr Hobby Aqueous paint?

 

I'm planning on going to the Bolton model show on Sunday and would quite like to get some of the correct products whilst there (if available).

 

PS. I am getting the impression that Mr Hobby Aqueous paint is now out of fashion and has been superseded in popularity by the Mr Color lacquer paints now. I'm a bit reluctant to make that change due to both the health related reasons and already having a local hobby shops quantity of Mr Hobby Aqueous paints.

[ckw]

59 minutes ago, Filler said:

I am getting the impression that Mr Hobby Aqueous paint is now out of fashion and has been superseded in popularity by the Mr Color lacquer paints now.

I think you can spend a lot of time and money chasing after the best paint! As far as I know, the lacquer paints preceded the aqueous paint, and considered by many to be easier and healthier to use. This does not mean they are 'better' though. I think a case could be made that lacquer paints (Mr Color & MRP/Mr Paint for example) give a. the best possible finish and b. allow the finest control when airbrushing.

 

But remember, the best is the enemy of the good.

 

Personally, after returning to the hobby after many years and trying a number of the many new paints available, I returned to enamels (Xtracolor and Colorcoats)  as for me these provide the best combination of accuracy, control and perhaps most importantly, reproducibility (if that's a word!).

 

As for your original question - you can use a lacquer over Mr Hobby, but only if the paint is thoroughly cured and only with the lightest of coats (e.g. mist it on). Clearly you will need several coats to get the desired gloss (same would apply to Flat finish). If you spray to heavily, or the clear coat is too wet, it will eat at the underlying paint.

 

But there is no reason why you can't continue to use Klear with your airbrush. You can use it straight, but I prefer to thin it with IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) in a 50/50 mix. For final finish, I often use the same Klear/IPA mix with the addition of varying amounts of flatting agent to get a variety of finishes from not quite gloss to full matt.

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

 

 

[bmwh548]

Well since you're already using cellulose thinner (which is basically what Mr. Leveling Thinner is) the whole health issue can be removed from the discussion. 

You can use GX100 over their waterbased paints but (as Colin already said) you will need to do mist coats at first, building up the varnish. And always make sure the paint is fully cured (especially the Aqueous gloss paints take forever to dry sometimes). 

[dnl42]

I've had wonderful results putting Mr Color C46 over all paint types, including enamels and water-soluble acrylics such as The Army Painter Warpaints and Vallejo. I always apply light coats of well-thinned (like 1% milk or thinner) paint. Mist coats first to build coverage. Always wet when they hit the surface. I apply a final "wet" gloss coat after building coverage. These are usually within one painting session because of Mr Color's and Alclad's fast drying times. I'm a huge fan of the Mr Color range, and I've learned I don't need a clear coat prior to decals atop their gloss and semi-gloss paints. I apply decals directly on those paints (also with Alclad).  I assume Gunze's Aqueous line are similarly wonderful paint, so they may also not always need a gloss coat.

 

Having written that, Gunze offers two types of clears for their Aqueous line: Aqueous Hobby Color Premium Clear Gloss H101, Semi-Gloss H102, and Flat H103, (all bottle) and Mr Premium Topcoat Gloss, Semi-Gloss, and Flat (all rattle can).

 

BTW, I use Mr Color Gloss Clear C46 for gloss coats, but Microscale Industries Micro Satin and Micro Flat for semi-gloss and flat clears, respectively.

 

Finally, I've never had luck airbrushing Future. Not sure why as many have written of their wonderful results. If you are going to airbrush Future, test it out first before committing it to your model.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

[Filler]

Thanks @ckw. I do still have 3 or 4 bottles on the original Klear (I'd just taken up the hobby at the time it was discontinued and panic bought 6 bottles of it in ASDA). I've always been afraid to airbrush it due to the fear of not cleaning the brush properly afterwords and it drying hard - plus all the talk of Windowlene and amonia (or is it acetone?) put me off. It's one of the trickiest parts of this hobby (and there are many), knowing what stinky liquids thin or clean what other stinky liquids without melting decals, paint or plastic.

 

Anyway, thanks again for your advice and I will maybe try the Mr Color Super Clear III GX-100 and also try spraying the Klear mixed with IPA.

 

(I'd typed that reply at lunchtime but got distracted and never submitted it)

 

@bmwh548, Thanks for your response too. I guess it's a common misconception that Mr Levelling Thinners are not 'safe' from a breathing in perspective. I myself assumed that whilst not good for you, they were less potent that whatever is used in/with lacquers and enamels. Mr Levelling Thinner has an odor, but the Humbrol cellulose jar I have smells on a whole other level. I do have a use both a Graphic Air 300S extractor and a 3M respirator, so should be quite well protected whatever I use.

 

@dnl42 I can't keep up with the replies now! Thank you for your thoughts. I must confess, whilst I have plenty of clear answers now, I am a bit flummoxed as to what best to use. The temptation is to just start using the Mr Color range as it is so highly thought of. But then, I have a mountain of Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya acrylic paints and am a bit loathe to ditch them.

 

Hmm, what to do?

[ckw]

13 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

Finally, I've never had luck airbrushing Future.

Neither had I - or at least it was very hit and miss - but someone on this forum (sorry, I forget who but thanks whoever you are) mentioned using a 50/50 IPA mix, and its been plain (or maybe plane) sailing ever since.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[bmwh548]

When I first started airbrushing I had a bunch of waterbased paints. Slowly, as I was using them up, I replaced them with Mr. Color ones. They dry up a lot faster (typically the paint is fully cured by the time I'm done cleaning the airbrush) and are more resilient to maneuvering. And since you already have a spray booth you don't need to worry. The Mr. Color "C" range smells slightly "less" than the Leveling thinner. The lacquer range (GX) is a bit worse, but nowhere near as bad as old school enamels (Humbrol, Revell).

[ckw]

2 minutes ago, Filler said:

But then, I have a mountain of Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya acrylic paints and am a bit loathe to ditch them.

I think if you have found a paint you are happy with why change? I wasted a lot of time and money going full circle from enamels through various lacquers and acrylics back to enamels. To be fair, the time wasn't really wasted as I learnt a lot about the strengths and weaknesses of various products, and indeed I do still use acrylics where quick drying time is important.

 

As to airbrush cleaning Klear - I find the IPA I use to thin the Klear works fine, though I also use cellulose thinner when I need to deep clean my airbrush. I suspect anything that will work on acrylic paints (which can really clog up an airbrush) will do fine for Klear.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Space Ranger]

I would use nothing but a water-based clear coat or a clear coat that is known to be compatible with water-based paints over such paints, and the only one I am personally familiar with is Future/Klear.