A Pair of Bulgarian Shchuka – R-2 and D-5 ***FINISHED***

[Ray_W]

@Niknak

 

Thanks Nick. Very useful clarification. Confirms the blade profile I have to achieve. Ray

[Ray_W]

As we know there is a huge challenge in replicating propellers accurately. I think the following photo (original from Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-655-5976-04,_Russland,_Sturzkampfbomber_Junkers_Ju_87_G and cropped) illustrates it nicely. That top blade looks like a different blade to that at bottom right. Of course they should be the same blade and it's just the camera angle.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

The work continues with a major milestone achieved, the finishing of the reshaping of the Italeri D-5 nose.

 

 

I reshaped the nose significantly including the oil cooler/air inductor, all to a shape more in keeping with the actual aircraft.  This involved some significant material removal and the need to place some filler (CA and talc) in the nose in areas that I knew I would break through. When this happened then I could keep going with no post patching work required. All blended in. You can see this at the top of the cowl at the spinner.

 

If you’re crazy enough to do the same as me, and not just get the Hasegawa kit, then my advice is plenty of reference photos and think Bf-109 and not Spitfire. The front end of the Italeri D-5 looks like something done by Hispano Aviación. Thinking about it, that really might have been interesting – Rolls Royce Merlin in a Stuka. The 1969 Battle of Britain film might have had Merlin Stukas to match the “Messerschmitt’s” and “Heinkel’s” rather than radio-controlled models.

 

I thinned the supercharger intake and reshaped it, blending it better into the cowl. I added the semi-circular indent for the supercharger intake gate. The intake worked out so well it seems a shame to close it with the intake gate typical of the parked aircraft. I have not decided, as yet, to fit it closed or open.

 

The exhaust fairing intakes, that I removed before shaping the nose, were thinned, glued back in place and some strip stock added. All was blended in using Mr Dissolved Putty. The cut-outs for the flame dampener tubes were not required and are not shown in photos of the Bulgarian D-5’s.

 

I had to replace some small intakes and other bits and pieces. All is now ready to fit to the fuselage once that part of the build is complete.

 

A couple of images of the current status follow shown in its undercoat for defect checks. You will note it is also fitted with a modified Airfix VS-11 propeller made to be more like the VS-111, a follow on from the earlier posts with @Niknak. Thanks Nick - very useful.  The thick spinner plate, typical of the D and G, still needs thinning a little and nothing is glued. All just sitting there for the photo opportunity.

 

 

 

I’ve added some images and pointers on how I went about modifying the Airfix prop.

 

 

 

 

A couple of additional pointers:

 

(a)    The prop blade needed to be widened with additional material on the trailing edge to reproduce the more curved pattern. I chose the cut line at positions that were easy to reproduce on all three blades. You can see I chose trailing edge of the round section to tip centre.

(b)    I use insulation tape as it holds, moulds to shape and I only need light pressure against it for the scribing. I show the dividers (one of my favourite tools). I can check I have replicated the width at various positions on all 3 blades.

(c)    The scribed line gives natural cut line for the razor saw to follow.

(d)     I used 1 mm styrene card for the spacer. Rough shaped, then glued (Tamiya thin) to the main portion, shaped down to the thickness of insulation tape and then it's ready to carefully align and glue on the trailing edge piece. The insulation tapes protects the piece and also leaves a small amount of material to remove once the trailing edge is fitted.  

(e)    It was then a matter of shaping based on references and duplicating the same shaping action on each blade.

 

Not a difficult job. Worth giving it a go.

 

Cheers,

Ray

 

[Troy Smith]

Great post Ray,  I really appreciate the details of how you did the prop blade modifications, very helpfully illustrated. Cowl look great too.

cheers

T

[Basilisk]

Some great efforts to correct the shapes of the power egg and props

Cheers, Peter

[Niknak]

Excellent work there Ray! Glade to be able to help. Nick

[Ray_W]

A welcome change of pace from cutting and shoving the Italeri D-5 to get it more D’ish and I’m into the cockpits. 

 

Having started with the Airfix B-1, which I was planning to modify to R-2 standard, I decided to cut myself a little slack and purchased the Airfx B-2/R-2 to substitute the only difference in the plastic, Fret H with Fret J, and thereby eliminate the need to modify the B-1 kit with the B-2/R-2 larger chin scoop.

 

 

 

Confident now I had the R-2 features sorted, and with everything else is in the B-1 box, I kept going with the Airfix B-1.

 

Not a lot of mods/enhancements to the cockpit other than scratching the pilot air cylinder, adding a few boxes and features, and making the used ammo drum bin more like canvas. Still some more to add and a little extra wiring.  Some Edward PE for a few extras and the Quickboost MG magazines.

 

 

 

I've used Eduard's solution for the instrument panel. It has the typical colourised PE ripple effect but does look OK in reality. It has already been toned down a little with a wash.

 

 

I decided to replace the Airfix joystick (centre) by scratching a new one from brass tube and styrene. The only part I re-used was the Airfix boot. The Italeri D-5 joystick is also shown - better than the skinny Airfix representation. 

 

 

Once I finish the Airfix cockpit detail I'll switch back to Italeri. Both interiors will be finished in RLM 66. My idea is that the R-2, being supplied in the second half of 1943, was probably late production and/or a reconditioned aircraft so the 66 is probably more likely than the early war 02. 

 

[Basilisk]

Great effort on the control stick as the Airfix representation is a bit of a choke. Looking forward seeing your cockpits completed.

 

Cheers, Peter

[Ray_W]

At last a bit of colour in the R-2 pit. Tamiya XF-63 base coat straight out of the bottle and then I add a little off-white and spray a mist coat from above just to give it a little highlight. Hard to pick in these photos.

 

 

Now, at last, into the fun part, picking out some colors, add some PE, gloss coat, wash, extra wiring, subdue it all with a finish coat and then a bit of weathering. Yes, it really is the fun part.  At least in a Stuka cockpit you do see something. 

 

Question for the Luftwaffe interior colour experten - those air reservoirs and piping, what colour light blue?

 

 

[Basilisk]

26 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

Question for the Luftwaffe interior colour experten - those air reservoirs and piping, what colour light blue?

Not that I am an expert, but this may help.

As far as I know, only the instruments are in blue which is the case on the Eduard coloured PE.

 

Cheers, Peter

[Ray_W]

@Basilisk

Peter,

Thanks for the rapid and very helpful response. It's the first time I have seen a closeup of the internal "breather bag". I now know that it is not a reservoir but, I suppose, had a function similar to the bag on the passenger emergency cabin air - some self-regulation.  Hence the reason it has the perforated shield to protect it. I have seen a number of builds where it looks like it is a blue bottle, which is probably not correct.  I'll go with the "shield" in 66. Possibly some brass fittings (artistic license) and limited blue. Thanks again.

Ray

[Ray_W]

We're getting there. My 1/48 Airfix R-2 with gloss coat and wash done. I use acrylics for the main colours, lacquer gloss coat, then Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color Black and Brown where needed.  

 

The wonders of the photography, better than my eyes, I can see some wash still to remove. I'll then put it aside for 24 hours before its flat and satin coat and then some detail painting. The brown shades in the starboard half are a trick from the lighting.

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

I'm calling the Airfix R-2 Cockpit done … for now. 

 

 

 

 

I decided to do the spent ammo magazine bin with an appearance of rubberised fabric similar to the German motorcycle riders kradmantel. The photography above, taken under bright lights, came out a little too green with no definition.  It's more like this:

 

 

 

I can now put this aside and focus on the Italeri D-5. The Italeri side wall detail is not too bad. Seems largely complete although it does not have the depth of the separate detail as achieved by Airfix's latest iteration. I'll add a little PE and it should turn out all right. I could not help myself and started some mods. I'll redo the gunner's seat as a scissor lift. 

 

 

I prefer seats more to scale. I am sure every pilot would like to sit in a seat with side walls and back equivalent to 20 mm boiler plate, sorry my guy will have to sit in something with 4 and 8 mm plating.

 

I also removed the seat squab. My Bulgarian pilots can sit on their parachute with a little back comfort retained. I used a bit of CA in the inside to give a more rounded prototypical seat shape and thinned accordingly. Rear armour and headrest I'll replace.

 

 

Italeri has no internal representation of the pilot's floor window or framing. Airfix provide two versions, one to be used with open motor (Part A27) and one without (Part A26). I think I can do something with part A27 (not required for my B-2) and scratch the framing around the rudder pedals. I might even open up that Italeri flooring a little. In the dim dark RLM 66 pit it may be hard to see although it will add a little more interest to the build. 

 

 

Cheers for now,

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Niknak]

There coming on nicely. That's what I'm planing to do with the cockpit of my airfix conversion to a d-1/3. Using bits of the airfix with an Aires cockpit. Nick

[Ray_W]

Hi Nick, Nice choice. Look forward to seeing it. Ray

[Niknak]

3 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Hi Nick, Nice choice. Look forward to seeing it. Ray

Hi Ray should be posting a update soon. I hit a issue with the build. The kagero drawing aren't 1/48 t. If you measure the dimensions of the drawings they measure 38 " so I'll be using the 1/72 drawings in classic publications ju 87 book and scaling them up using my 1/72 and 1/48 scale rules. Nick

[Ray_W]

I am into the build of the Italeri D-5 cockpit and will post some pictures soon. In the mean time I was hoping BM members, who happen to come by this build, might have an answer to a question.

 

I posted previously how I have modified the Italeri pilot seat to be more prototypical by thinning down and reshaping. I will now fit the pilot's head armour by replacing the Italeri piece with one scratch built from 0.20 mm card. The supplied one is just over 1 mm in thickness, close to a 1:1 50 mm (2 "). I am certain the pilot would like this behind his head but the actual armour thickness was more like, I think, 8 mm a 1:48 scale 0.17 mm.

 

 

This brings me to my question. I have found it difficult to source an image of what is actually going on behind that Ju-87 D or G seat. It seems aftermarket, kits and modellers all have different interpretations. The D Flight Manual show the pilots harness feeding through the armour plate. In lieu of better information I will go with this option, it being a primary source, but possibly somebody has a clear image or further information. It seems strange to provide such a weakness in the plate without some form of other shielding. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

 

[Troy Smith]

1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

It seems strange to provide such a weakness in the plate without some form of other shielding.

I think you maybe overthinking this Ray.  It's a small opening,  compared to the plate overall, so I'd think it's not really an issue, plus, how else are you going to run the straps? 

Hopefully other will know more,  but given armour was an add-on from experience after the basic planes were designed, I'd suggest the drawing is right.

[Basilisk]

The B cockpit looks very nice indeed and the detective work continues. This may help.

Cheers, Peter

[Ray_W]

@Troy Smith @Basilisk Thanks for the quick response. Answers it nicely. I'll bolt on my head armour (with Tamiya Thin 😀) with strap slots. 

[Ray_W]

I've spent a little more time on the D-5. 

 

I broke away from the Italeri build instructions and did the same as I did with the Airfix R-2 and glued the side walls onto the fuselage halves first, rather than building the tub then inserting it. I want to ensure those sills close up. I just glue the top edge, that is the sill edge, in case I need to adjust the bottom edge to close up on the fuselage floor.  If this was Tamiya then highly unlikely I would do this. I'd just build the tub and click it in. Italeri … 🤔… I'll try and get the "seen" edges right first.

 

 

 

I also opened up that cockpit floor around the pilot seat and in front of the joystick. Planning on fitting that Airfix Part A27 (RLM 66). Some cross members, spars  and the front former at the rudder pedals to add. I think this stuff is easy to do and improves the look considerably making the build more like 2020 kits. Also I am busy thinning bulkheads and other paraphernalia to a more scale thickness.

 

 

Hopefully I'll be able grab some more time this week to really get into the Italeri cockpit and have it ready for painting.

 

Cheers,

Ray

 

[Ray_W]

I continue to wrestle with my Italeri D-5.

 

Certainly the reworked Italeri seat is turning out OK. It's getting there.

 

 

I decided to use Eduard PE for the instrument panel and the Italeri PE combing. I was very unhappy with the panel location in relation to the cockpit. Nothing to do with the Eduard PE, the Italeri instrument panel will give the same result.

 

 

Compared to the Airfix R-2 (image follows), the Italeri sticks out a mile.

 

 

You can scrape the inside of the Italeri front canopy section to make it fit but it did not seem a true rendition of the actual Ju-87 D.

 

I decided to move the instrument panel 1.5 mm forward to produce a slight gap between the existing bulkhead that Italeri position the panel hard against. If you compare the Italeri and Airfix photos above you will see Airfix have a gap from panel to bulkhead. Comparing photos of the actual aircraft the gap does not seem as exaggerated as Airfix. The 1.5 mm chosen was a compromise to try and get the appearance better at the canopy, in my view a more critical requirement than a slightly oversize gap to an interior bulkhead. The pilot of my D-5 will have another benefit. He will be able to push the joystick forward without fouling the panel 😁

 

I had already decided to put in place a new forward bulkhead to better replicate the detail ahead of the instrument panel and include the missing pilot's floor window. The new bulkhead location became the panel stop. Side wall detail and floor was removed ahead of this position.

 

 

I also replaced (PE) and repositioned the rudder pedals dropping them down and pushing them back slightly.

 

Here you can see the instrument panel in the new location. You can see the old panel location hole that's been filled with CA. The main pieces are just tacked in place to check fit.

 

 

 

The final result looks much better and now that front canopy section mounts nicely. I can play around with the coaming and gunsight to my heart's content to better represent what is happening in there.

 

 

The fun 🥴 continues.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

[Basilisk]

Well done. Little correction like moving the IP do make a bid difference and are worthwhile the effort

Cheers, Peter

[Ray_W]

The D-5 cockpit is now, at last, ready for some paint.

 

 

The basic Italeri side wall detail is not bad. Just a little extra wiring, beefed up the morse key, made the Eduard radio PE a better fit with new shroud, replaced the Italeri gunners seat base with a scratch built scissor lift and of course that front cockpit work where I opened up the flooring. 

 

On the R-2, because I was using RLM 66, I thought I would skip my usual black undercoat phase even though I had recently completed some Bf-109's and FW-190's where I did use the black undercoat.  I was not happy with the result on the R-2 and will go back to a black undercoat before top colours. 

 

[Basilisk]

Another great effort Ray Is the wiring made from led wires and do you use CA glue to attach it to the fuselage?

 

Cheers, Peter