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Focke Wulf FW 44J Stieglitz, Finland early '44, Huma 1/72


JWM

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Hi,

My second for 2020, the Focke Wulf FW 44 Stieglitz by Huma in 1/72/ Buiild is almost OOB, I added only some structure inside.  I was inspired by recent show in RFI of FW 44  in 1/32 by @galgos (thanks :) ) and started build right in New Year day. I realized that from few years I have already chosen the scheme and I have everything to go on with it. The scheme followas one given by Kora in a decal set, however I hav used decals from drawer. It is FW 44 of Finnish AF during spring 1944.

Her she is: 

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As you can see there was a disaster of decay of "11" on bottom of wing, one day I will correct it....

 

Comments welcome

Regards

J-W

 

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56 minutes ago, Doc72 said:

A cute little biplane in an attractive paint scheme. Good work on the rigging. What did you use for the wires?

Huma was quite an interesting company and made some nice kits.

Thank you. Huma had a wide range of German subjects indeed. Now some of them are released with new mould by new companies like AZ, RS etc... But I still have some of them in stash.

Since some few years I am using for riging fine EZ line (by Berkshire Junction).  Yesterday I have just finished second 100 feet roll... :) So you see, a lot of biplane done recently. This is very nice stuff. One hint from me - sometimes it is very useful is to glue (CA) a 1 cm long piece of stretched sprue which act as needle.

Cheers

J0W  

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Love your colourful Stieglitz J-W, I feel honoured that my Silver Wings Fw44 helped you to start your build. It’s so refreshing to see something different, though how you made that fine model and rigged it in 1/72 scale is way beyond me, far too small for my eyesight and capabilities! Well done and congratulations. 

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1 hour ago, galgos said:

Love your colourful Stieglitz J-W, I feel honoured that my Silver Wings Fw44 helped you to start your build. It’s so refreshing to see something different, though how you made that fine model and rigged it in 1/72 scale is way beyond me, far too small for my eyesight and capabilities! Well done and congratulations. 

BTW the Silver Wings kits are being designed and manufactured just 8 miles from JWM's home.

And just ONE mile from my home :)

Cheers

Michael

 

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3 hours ago, KRK4m said:

BTW the Silver Wings kits are being designed and manufactured just 8 miles from JWM's home.

And just ONE mile from my home :)

Cheers

Michael

 

Oh you lucky people! For me, the SW kits are the best in the world for all the reasons: right scale (1/32), material and detail (resin quality mouldings) and subject matter (for me, biplanes of the 1930s). 

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6 hours ago, JWM said:

Thank you. Huma had a wide range of German subjects indeed. Now some of them are released with new mould by new companies like AZ, RS etc... But I still have some of them in stash.

Since some few years I am using for riging fine EZ line (by Berkshire Junction).  Yesterday I have just finished second 100 feet roll... :) So you see, a lot of biplane done recently. This is very nice stuff. One hint from me - sometimes it is very useful is to glue (CA) a 1 cm long piece of stretched sprue which act as needle.

Cheers

J0W  

That's a nice looking model. 

What type of CA do you use for your rigging.  Thin or gap filling. I found the thin CA was a nightmare to use  I destroyed two models rigging with it. Right at the end of my second build I discovered the gap filler CA worked much better.

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6 hours ago, Greg Law said:

That's a nice looking model. 

What type of CA do you use for your rigging.  Thin or gap filling. I found the thin CA was a nightmare to use  I destroyed two models rigging with it. Right at the end of my second build I discovered the gap filler CA worked much better.

Loctite control gel is the way to go Greg. A drop on the end of a pin etc can be placed exactly where you want it to go.

Max 

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7 hours ago, Greg Law said:

That's a nice looking model. 

What type of CA do you use for your rigging.  Thin or gap filling. I found the thin CA was a nightmare to use  I destroyed two models rigging with it. Right at the end of my second build I discovered the gap filler CA worked much better.

I have an experience with both. Currently I am using thin one with Polish name "kropelka"  (exactly it means "droplet" produced in Urugway. Interesting sign of globalization) .

Here is how exactly it goes. I drill opening with 0.4-0.6 mm drill, localize one end of fibre in it and apply a droplet of glue using a needle. I admit, this is a bit tricky, because  you should try to put the droplet inside the opening with fibre end inside but avoid direct touching fibre with needle. However if you already touch the fibre you have wait a moment (for fixation of glue around fibre) and then start to rotate needle. Ususlly the adhesion forces of fixed glue between fibre and plastic are stronger than between needle and  you can remove needle. Hoever, sometimes not, then you have to repeat... For the second end of fibre you have to have a drilled through opeing, that you can stretch fibre a bit, secure with a piece of Tamiya tape and glue. Then you strech the free end much stroger, cut excess (this makes that shrank fibre end  hide inside opening) put a filler on hole and finally sand it. Recently with build of Supermarine Sea Otter (not finished yet) I tried (and it went OK) to do riging before glueing together upper and lower parts of wings. So namely I glued together upper part of lower wing, struts and lower part of upper wing. The drilling was done prior to it. When the construction was already stiff I did riging. Then I glued lower part of bottow wing and upper part of upper wing. This makes the surfae of external parts of wings untouched and save some time. But in case of FW 44 the each wing is a single piece, so you have to drill it through in this technique.

Remember that soaking with acetic acid dissolves CA junction. So if you destroyed model by CA in some way you can put the kind of tampon soaked with acetic acid and (after few hours) remove any traces of CA

Thank you for comment on model :)

 

Regards

J-W

 

  

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