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Revell’s Big Camel


DMC

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That's an outstanding fixture on the turtle deck. 

When I see you doing something like that, I sometimes wonder why you bother with a kit! 

I suppose you need a starting point to stick the improvements on 😅

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14 hours ago, pheonix said:

That is a very big improvement indeed

Yes, thanks for that.  Next one in the queue gets all these little fixes.  

10 hours ago, RichieW said:

Beautiful work Dennis

Thanks, Richie, all credit to Harry Woodman and his wonderful little book.

8 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

That's an outstanding fixture on the turtle deck

Thanks, Rob, as I said, I’ m pleased with the way it turned out.  I built the Macchi racers from a couple of sheets of styrene but they were simple shapes.  Scratching something  like the Camel would be a bit more involved.  I suppose “improving” old kits is my preferred modelling pastime.

 

Thanks again guys

 

Dennis

 

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The kit control arms for the elevators pretty small really of any use.  New arms, or bellcranks, can be made of 30 amp fuse wire. Bend the wire to the desired shape and hammer flat.  Pierce the end to be rigged just enough to be enlarged with a small drill bit.  I used a broach, a set of which I find very useful.   I’ll need four more singles for the wings and another for the rudder.

 

Thanks for dropping in

 

Dennis

 

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Scratch built Vickers:

 

I’ve two of the big Revell Camels, the one in this thread and another that I’ll convert to a 2F.1 Ship’s Camel.  So I’ve four Vickers available.  Two for this one, one for the 2F.1 and a spare. However, I was trying to get my head around Ken Foran’s account of how he made the fluted cooling barrel for his brass Vickers.  Got to thinking how I could make a fluted barrel in styrene and came up with this.  Found a bit of rod that looked about right and cemented .025 rod around it.  Checked the diameter against the Wylam  Vickers drawings and, surprise, it matched.  So I just went ahead and added a few more bits to complete it.  Looks okay and I might end up using instead of the kit one (BR) which I have detailed up a little.  The cocking leaver is 30 amp fuse wire.

 

Thanks for dropping in

 

Dennis

 

 

 

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That looks great. The foil from takeaway containers is also very useful for those kinds of jobs.

48572914221_ef0f792307_c.jpg
It’s thick enough to take an embossed shape butthin enough to be usable for fairly fine work.

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Used extensively on my 1/48 JI ( which is very nearly finished)

 

Edited by Marklo
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1 hour ago, RichieW said:

This is such an enjoyable thread to follow 

Thanks, Richie, really pleased you are enjoying it.  I should be farther along but I’m too easily distracted.  

 

Dennis

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1 hour ago, pheonix said:

Excellent demonstration of how to scratch a Vickers Dennis. That is the kind of idea which I really like.

 

P

Many thanks, P, happy to oblige.  

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Hi Dennis, hope you are well fella.  Great scratch building work on the Vickers gun that looks fab.  Also the control arms too, what a cracker of an idea, would never have thought of that, banked the idea in the brain mk 1.

 

Thanks for sharing.

Take care and stay safe

All the best

Chris

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12 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Hi Dennis, hope you are well fella.

Hi Chris,

 

Well enough, I think.  Being very careful, only been out and about five times and all medically related.  Madam does the shopping and I wipe everything down with a soap and bleach solution.  So far so good.

 

Thanks for your support, Chris.  Always a pick-me-up when I get one of your reply’s.

 

Stay safe

 

Dennis

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Back on the track of the camel but nothing too exciting. Took stock of my Vallejo greens to start thinking about the finish.....but still some way to go.  Hard to see in this photo but I favour .264 Brown Violet.  Somewhere in between brown and green and I think it fits the “sparrow” description the German’s had for the Camel.  Yet to decide on the linen colour.  

 

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A little paint (primer) to look for flaws.  Just a light mist on the turtledeck to keep the stringers in relief.  First experiment with wood effect.  Vallejo orange brown with a little burnt sienna rubbed in. More experiments necessary.

 

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Suggestions and critiques welcome

 

Thanks for dropping in 

 

Dennis

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It's so hard to tell viewing on a mobile phone but my preferred colour from the test swatch you made is brown violet too. I think it will be a very handsome camel in that outfit.

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A light coat of Vallejo Brown Violet Is sprayed on the turtledeck for effect as I haven’t used it before.  It is, I believe, an RLM colour and I remember using it on a 190D  those many years ago.  I prefer it to anything greener and will stick with it for the rest of the build.

 

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Only a subtle hint of wood grain is evident on this panel on a modern reproduction. I used Vallejo Brown Orange as a base with rubbing of burnt sienna which, when dry, will be lightly sanded and buffed to a sheen.  I’m experimenting on some scraps to achieve something like the panel in the photo but am not one for a heavy wood grain look.  Less is more.

 

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I’ll be trying for an end result that looks a bit like this one in Erik Ooms’ excellent painting.  All business.

 

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Thanks for dropping in.

 

Dennis

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I'm liking the brown violet very much Dennis. I got a bottle in a Luftwaffe camouflage set so it probably is an RLM colour.

 

The subtle wood grain effect is excellent. I agree with your less is more approach. I know the camel Ikanopit in the photograph very well from my visits to Old Warden.

 

Love that painting too!

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Thanks, Richie.  Thought I might get to Old Warden myself this year but doesn’t look like it’s going to happen now.  Pity.

 

Dennis

 

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The access panels on the kit are a little off in shape and location.  Probably down to the Wylam drawings which Revell seems to have copied.  I was just going to cement the panels in place and rescribe them in.  However, as is usually the case, the more thought about it the more the panels warranted a little more attention than a simple rescribe.  From the dozens of photos I’ve looked at, it is apparent that the panels fit into a slight recess but still still stand a little proud from the larger panel.  I used .010 styrene, .005 would have been better, and spru for the screws.  The spent shell chute is brass, very thin.  Looks much better , I think.

 

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This photo shows the panel removed and a somewhat runny paint job.   You can just make out the recess.  Panel shapes seem to vary depending on the manufacturer.  Most of them look oval to me.

 

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I follow the listings on eBay for these 1/28 kits.  They always seem to sell for tidy sums.  There’s one listed now with the bidding up to £20, with two days to go.  A couple of bidders are fighting it out over this kit.  

 

Thanks for dropping in 

 

Dennis

 

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Hi Dennis, yes that is much more accurate. Here is a photo I took of Ikanopit just before lockdown started, it shows quite nicely that you are quite right that the panel sits a little proud of the recess.

 

49735607597_31495069d3.jpg20200111_105752 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

It's a shame you can't visit Old Warden at the moment but if you visit my Flickr page you can have a virtual visit to the WW1 hangar. I have many (not particularly great) photos of the aircraft with lots of little details that might be useful for modelling purposes. Unfortunately lockdown started the day I was going to visit with a proper SLR camera.

 

Best wishes

Richie

Edited by RichieW
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I'm coming to this late but wow, just WOW!  I love what you are doing and I'm inspired to take a look at my long neglected efforts which stalled at trying to get the top wing to sit just right. I think my half built example has languished for about 7-8 years maybe more.  I am happily following along and look forward to how you handle that tricky step.  Meanwhile I'm very much enjoying the build and learning what I can from your wonderful example.  Thank you for taking the time and effort to share such fine craftsmanship.   
Dan

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