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A BIG Rolls-Royce Version II 1-7-2020


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It's an awesome backdrop Codger. Inspired by @gt6mkiii's builds I too have found the fun in using backdrops for my truck builds, they're A3 sized photos but I definitely plan on building an actual barn or workshop wall at some point. Your work here has given me some more pointers.

 

For now, I've built a tarmac base in which I can place the backdrops (glued on 5mm foamboard) so I can easily switch them out and add more. I have to have them printed at a shop but it's not expensive and certainly worth the effort. 

 

20200709204350-05066c54-me.jpg

 

 

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This really lovely. I agree that pictures taken with such a backdrop, make a lot of fun. 
The windows and the pictures behind it really make for a realistic setup.

Thanks for this mini tutorial. Much appreciated. 
 

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38 minutes ago, JeroenS said:

It's an awesome backdrop Codger. Inspired by @gt6mkiii's builds I too have found the fun in using backdrops for my truck builds, they're A3 sized photos but I definitely plan on building an actual barn or workshop wall at some point. Your work here has given me some more pointers.

Very glad to see enthusiasm for backdrops. You have a great start with what you've assembled so far.

Forgot to show the Dave Cox backdrop which is visually neat and simple, advertises his business and does not detract from models placed before it:

DSC06052-2.jpg

 

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1 minute ago, Pouln said:

This really lovely. I agree that pictures taken with such a backdrop, make a lot of fun. 
The windows and the pictures behind it really make for a realistic setup.

Thanks for this mini tutorial. Much appreciated. 
 

I had you specifically in mind when I posted this...:devil:

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  • 1 month later...

Hmmmm....

I am reliably informed that Mr Cox has a rather unique Rolls that has just had primer applied. That means, in his fashion, all the bits have been completed, dismantled and finish has begun. Since it is a model built for himself and not a client, expect the unexpected. Or outlandish. Or some combination of the two. But you will see it here.

At any rate, it will further demonstrate how far Pochers can be pushed. :rolleyes:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tip...!

In conversation in Dan's thread about his wonderful XK-E build I asked what carpet material he used. Turns out he used a type of cotton fabric covered with paint.

This reminded me of an old trick I used on my Rolls headliner.  There I used the seat leather and turned it around to its suede back side. This does two things; saves buying doll house carpet or other fabric and gives beautiful color co-ordination to your seat fabric. Needless to say, it works a treat as floor carpet:

IMG-0836.jpg

If you prefer, a bit of round leather piping makes great carpet binding/edging.

BIG HINT; You will be seeing much more of this cabin in the near future............:devil:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow gents (and ladies), beautiful beautiful work. Yikes! As a newbie I fear I am already up to my nose in the deep end of the pool. And all I have done is open the box and recover the loose pieces and categorize and organize them. I have not even dove in yet. I've got a Pocher k72 Rolls Sedanca unbuilt kit.

 

I have wanted one to build since I was a kid. Long ago...... So now it is too late for me.

 

I had a question if anyone would oblige. The windscreen on mine (upper rail) did not survive. I do have all the pieces.

 

Are the plastic panels polystyrene, or ABS if anyone knows or could comment? If so I will plan to repair perhaps with a wire gauge drill bit and pin it, and with a touch of Plastruct (or MEK / acetone lacquer thinner) or more likely perhaps some cyanoacrylate (CA). And then sand or fashion to suit and paint.

 

Thank you if anyone might know or comment. I tried searching a bit on the web to see what resins the Pocher earlier kits were cast with, but did not find anything useful.

 

Best regards.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Terryz said:

Thank you if anyone might know or comment. I tried searching a bit on the web to see what resins the Pocher earlier kits were cast with, but did not find anything useful.

 

Best regards.

 

After a three plus year build of one, I might know Terry.:rolleyes:

Welcome, fellow Yank and thanks for your first post being in my thread. The simple answer is that the kit is composed of good old (4 decade old) polystyrene plastic. It joins well with regular model cement (thin or tube glue), CA (thin and gel) MEK Weld On #4 and epoxy resin. My car and David Cox's cars seen here all employ these adhesives. Avoid acetone.

Your plan to mend the windscreen header is fine but probably overkill. Pinning probably not needed if the break parts fit together well. Use Tamiya thin cement (or Weld On) to wick into the join and hold a few minutes or jig. Also thin CA  (I like Bob Smith Industries or Pacer green bottle) will work as well. Sand the complete fix with 220 to 400 grit and finish for primer with 600. If you wade through my build you will see I cut the vertical A-pillars of mine 5mm  to chop or lower the windscreen and rejoined the top cross bar or header with CA and then dressed the join with Bondo 2 part filler to make it invisible.

Here's 3 shots from the build - it's all in there:

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Feel free to ask questions anytime and refer to this build - it's all here. I recommend you start your own build thread and show us as you progress. There are many great and helpful builders here.

Best / C

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Hello Codger,

 

Thank you so much for the quick answer and greeting. Yes this is perfect help and I appreciate it. Good old polystyrene (PS) as I had hoped. (Rivarossi / Italy also used PS and ABS on their N and HO scale train shells which I have done much with in my days. But as my eyes have aged I had to go bigger scale. And then still with a 3X loop for certain things.) In a pinch I have found that the old 3-1/2" computer floppy disk cases (also ABS I am convinced) make great straight pieces when cut or shaved for repairs or stabilizing or replacing thin pieces.

 

And I agree with you on acetone; if I needed something more aggressive (like a bigger or thicker piece) I would try lacquer thinner. Otherwise as you caution, everything will turn to a blob of brown or black goo. Plastruct has also worked for me. I like your idea too of not overkill - i.e. try minimalist first. I'll have to look closely at it. I have three pieces. It broke top center of the top rail and from each of the side rail bottom posts where they meet the bottom rail or cowl.

 

I have also found that cyanoacrylate (CA; I used Zap-a-Gap - typically medium polymer as I recall) is good. But I have also found too that it does not always want to 'grab' the parts or hold a true repair. Sanding the mating edges first with say 150 or 220 grit or a fine file helps. Sometimes also PVC pipe glue compound can work, but it leaves a lot of residue. Dries quickly, although it too can be aggressive on small parts.

 

You and the other's work here with these kits is impeccable. Wow. I somehow just found your circa 2017 thread on the Rolls maroon drop head (I think) with covered wire sheels. I agree - the plates or pans on wheel covers look great.

 

ps. I figured with a moniker like you have and this British forum you must have been across the pond. I do miss Marty Feldman and his bits in those great Mel Brooks films.

 

And thanks for suggesting I start my own topic thread. Let me see where I get. Talk about minimalist. I will win that. Think of Aesop's fable "The Tortoise and the Hare". (I am the former....) For now I can show only an open vintage boxed kit circa 1970 untouched. And one where I had to tape a few of the little packets as the sharp little pieces and pokey rods (bags 8, 12, 61) had worked through and scissored and shaved their way loose to free themselves - to find a new location in the morass.

 

For now I will stew on where do I start, page 1 ----- or the wheels. It seems without the wheels I am no good for sure. Let it also looks like many give up after fretting them. I did peruse your build on the wire wheels with the white resin rings (I think) as well as the springs from the fellow modeler parts supplier. Good stuff there!

 

Cheers and thanks so much for the welcome!

Terry

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Apart from the excellent thread of Chas’ build, do make sure that you get the Paul Koo DVD. It will help you to go in the right direction. 

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2 hours ago, Terryz said:

For now I will stew on where do I start, page 1 ----- or the wheels. It seems without the wheels I am no good for sure. Let it also looks like many give up after fretting them. I did peruse your build on the wire wheels with the white resin rings (I think) as well as the springs from the fellow modeler parts supplier. Good stuff there!

 

Cheers and thanks so much for the welcome!

Terry

The wheels are a good start - get them right and you are well-equipped to deal with kit problems (warped and ill-fitting parts) that will surely arise later. Take care to get them concentric with no screw heads on tire mounting edges.

For the record the white resin rings are offered by ModelMotorcars and not kit parts. I wrestled with all stock kit parts. It's all in here.

Do start a thread - it's fun and you will get help if you need it. / C

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/1/2020 at 8:44 PM, Codger said:

Fully restored ! All photos back ! :phew:

Luckily your photo hosting server chose not to surrender to any Photobucket syndrome. Would have been very bad news if all photos were gone / taken ransom again.

 

Very helpful tips and tricks to be found in this topic, once more.

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59 minutes ago, Roy vd M. said:

Luckily your photo hosting server chose not to surrender to any Photobucket syndrome. Would have been very bad news if all photos were gone / taken ransom again.

 

Very helpful tips and tricks to be found in this topic, once more.

Thanks for the positive sentiment Roy. Yes Postimg has been a very good host with only occasional technical glitches. But the prospect of re-creating a whole thread again gives me a headache. :wall:

And I doubt the admins here will tolerate further horseplay by me. They have been marvelous in creating this one. :worthy:

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I love following this thread, your work is very very impressive.  I just very rarely have anything to add, its all a bit above my skill set.  But I can point out that you just hit your 3000th post ^^ :) 

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54 minutes ago, HoolioPaulio said:

I love following this thread, your work is very very impressive.  I just very rarely have anything to add, its all a bit above my skill set.  But I can point out that you just hit your 3000th post ^^ :) 

:D  I guess that means I talk to much ! Thank you HP, very kind. But my hope since 2014 when this began was to share my meandering journey and hopefully get others to be 'brave' about trying to push their envelop to build what their vision is. And I know these Pocher crocks are not everyone's cup of tea. But much of this can translate down in scale size and complexity.

I urge you and others to speak your mind, good or bad and not worry about 'adding anything'. Unless it's a better way than something I showed because I'm much more eager to learn rather than 'teach'.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Boy, I sure wonder what's taking Mr Cox so long to build yet another Rolls Royce?

What could he possibly do that's new and unique to one of those? To get an answer I had his trusty grandson sneak a snapshot on his workbench while Dave was on a cookie break.

Well, this looks like an ordinary Phantom II six cylinder engine which comes in every Pocher kit and ----but wait --let's count those sparky wires; one, two, three, four, five, six, SEVEN, EIGHT  ! :devil:

Now I see why we must wait...........but a good sign is that there's sanding dust everywhere .:frantic:

IMG-0563.jpg

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