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1:48 Eduard Tempest Mk.V


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2 hours ago, RadMax8 said:

Coming along rather nicely. That’s irritating that Eduard left out such a prominent piece, only to include it as an aftermarket item. Oh well, what’s another couple bucks?

 

Your forays with masking are interesting. I probably would have just brushed the black details in the cockpit, however I am pretty new to the liquid mask game...

Thanks RadMax

 

As this is a ProfiPACK I'm surprised that Eduard didn't include it with the kit, it did only cost under £4 however when you have to post & pack the cost increases, as far as I know there are no model shops that stock Eduard "extras" anywhere close to where I live. Eduard don't even include it in the "Royal" class version and that sells for around £70, you do get two kits including some resin to make a "tug".

 

This was the first time that I tried using the liquid mask for this sort of thing, I normally use it for canopies and I have used it for "chipping" previously.

it was just an experiment and although it worked I'm not sure that I'll do it again, like you I normally hand-paint and I think I'll probably revert to a brush next time. The main "issue" with the mask fluid is application, you have to be very carful and as its not a "paint" it can be tricky to get it go where you want it and also removing it from the non-mask area. Also removing the mask once the paint has dried has to be done carefully, I started by using tweezers but they scratched off some of the paint I was trying to protect and had to brush paint them anyway. Using a tooth pick/cocktail stick was the easiest way to remove the mask as it didn't effect the underling paint.

 

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49394124202_0fe0af3f98.jpg

 

After watching Paul Budzik’s Tempest Review Pt-2...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi1Kh0lFLdw

 

...I first glued the “outsides” of the wheel wells to ensure their correct alignment.

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Then I added the braces.

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Clothes-pegs were used as clamps to apply light pressure to the wing halves.

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The fit of the wings to the fuselage is a bit fiddly but ends up really nice.

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For anyone building this kit in the future I would recommend omitting both E79 parts as they stand proud of the underwing and I’m sure that they’ll get either bent or snapped off during the rest of the build or painting process.

49403425361_3023a8fe70_c.jpg

 

 

 

Next I’ll be adding the rear stabilisers, ailerons, rudder and the top of the cockpit .

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49403450126_af455eb0ab.jpg

 

Ailerons, rear stabilisers and rudder attached, she’s really beginning to look like a Tempest now.

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Eduard have made a very cleaver way to fix the to of the cockpit to the fuselage.

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I couldn’t fit the very, very tiny machine gun barrels, they are meant to slide in from the back but the holes weren’t anywhere big enough do I’ve left them off

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Next I’ll be applying some primer to check the seams and prepare for paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Pointlessly repeated images removed 

 

 

John,

 

I had exactly the same seepage on my seat. I feel better now! 🤣

 

Best regards,

 

Roger

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12 hours ago, Dunny said:

John,

 

I had exactly the same seepage on my seat. I feel better now! 🤣

 

Best regards,

 

Roger

ha ha

 

what's the old saying "great minds think alike" or is it "fools seldom differ"

 

I was sure that I'd pressed the masking tape down

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49403786513_09bc38c674.jpg

 

So after spending most of the morning masking in preparation for paint here’s where she currently stands.

49408511723_97b16252ea_c.jpg

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This gave me an excuse to breakout my new INFINI cutting mat…

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…in order to cut some thin strips of Tamiya tape to mask the runner/guides for the canopy.

 

Spare “packing sponge” was used to cover the wheel wells and chin intake.

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Eduard provide tape masks for the windscreen and canopy.

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Mr Masking SOL was also used to cover the canopy.

 

Once the masking was completed I gave everything an initial coat of my favourite UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

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The kit supplies drop-tanks in clear plastic, the fixings/mounts to the wing were clear on the “real” thing so Eduard have provided both the tanks and fixings on one sprue.

49409424092_48aa8bcaa2_c.jpg

 

The “after-market” resin exhausts look fantastic.

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When the primer fully cures I’ll check the seams for any repairs that are needed, that show up far better with the primer.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49413796337_d459428ac1.jpg

 

The primer showed that there are a couple of places that need some attention.

49413796362_31958ef81a_c.jpg

 

The wing root looks far worse than it really is.

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The rear wing join has a little step, once again its exaggerated in the photo? I’ll probably leave this as there is some very nice subtile detail that would get lost’

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A smidge of Mr Dissolved Putty fills the gaps nicely.

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For some reason the rear stabilisers didn’t fully close together.

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Once the putty had cured it was cleaned off…

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…and then given another coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer

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Next I’ll be applying the underside colour.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Looking good! What’s your thoughts on the infini cutting mat? I saw those pop up, but they’re a bit pricey. Would be better and more precise than my usual method though...

 

Keep up the good work!

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1 hour ago, RadMax8 said:

Looking good! What’s your thoughts on the infini cutting mat? I saw those pop up, but they’re a bit pricey. Would be better and more precise than my usual method though...

 

Keep up the good work!

Hi RadMax8

 

the infini cutting mat is a really good piece of kit and very easy to use as your knife-blade travels along the grooves with precision. Previously I've cut thin strips of tape with a steel ruler however using this mat you'll get the same width every time, it was a bit hit'n'miss before, depending on the scale this might not be an issue.

I'm now looking to use thin masks, I'll almost certainly use them to simulate ribs on material covered rudders and ailerons, I've a WWI biplane in the stash and it'll defiantly be used during that future build.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Pointlessly repeated images removed 

 

John,

 

It's quite nice having you working on the same kit but just ahead of me - almost like having a spirit guide 🤣

 

By the same token it does put some pressure on :lalala:. Good luck with the painting,

 

Best regards,

 

Roger

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11 hours ago, RadMax8 said:

Cheers, John. Thanks for the info. Don’t always need precise tape strips, but when you do... it’s a royal pain to make it happen!

the infant cutting mat makes it really easy, also it has different "widths" 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 and 1.0 so you should be able to accurately cut the width needed.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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12 hours ago, Dunny said:

John,

 

It's quite nice having you working on the same kit but just ahead of me - almost like having a spirit guide 🤣

 

By the same token it does put some pressure on :lalala:. Good luck with the painting,

 

Best regards,

 

Roger

ha ha, if I were you I wouldn't follow me 🤪

 

its a really good kit (so far) just be sure to use the fuselage sides as a template for the cockpit and intake sub assemblies as I recon it could be difficult to close the fuselage if their even slightly misaligned.

 

isn't the raised rivet detail on the fuselage a joy to behold?

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49418532878_815d607a45.jpg

 

I saw this 16 minute video of Jarek Rydzynski’s (JR Miniatures) marbling and weathering technique…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZehnXDtUdE

… I then got in touch with him via Facebook and purchased a set of his templates, 15 euro + 8 shipping, they took a little while to arrive but to be fair it was over Christmas and New Year.

 

49424055647_4a23f5623e_c.jpg

 

Here’s a 3 minute video of Jarek using and then cleaning one of the templates

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWA1vIo_8mg

 

Using Tamiya XF-83 medium sea gray 2 50/50 mixed with Mr Levelling thinner, I used one of the templates to create a marble layer…

49424055602_08eb3aceb4_c.jpg

…I normally do this “free hand” however using the templates is far quicker and easier. One of the things I try to create with the marbling is a “random” effect, doing it by hand its difficult to make it “random” as I naturally make the same movements with the airbrush. By rotating the mask I can almost guarantee that the marbling will be random.

I’m not too sure with the result, it’s a little too “hard-edged” for my licking, I’ll need to experiment holding the template off the surface.

 

To blend the marble layer I used thinned highly thinned 10/90 XF-83 built up in thin layers

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I’m reasonably happy with the result but I’m going to “free hand” the top camo’ and compare the results.

 

 

With that in mind next I’ll be masking off the underside and spray the grey and green camo’.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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John, looks pretty good. One thing you can do to break up the edges is to do multiple layers with the mask using lighter and darker shades of the base color, so it all sort of blends together. May be worth trying on some plastic card or a paint mule!

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10 hours ago, shortCummins said:

ha ha, if I were you I wouldn't follow me 🤪

 

its a really good kit (so far) just be sure to use the fuselage sides as a template for the cockpit and intake sub assemblies as I recon it could be difficult to close the fuselage if their even slightly misaligned.

 

isn't the raised rivet detail on the fuselage a joy to behold?

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

John,

 

Thanks for the tip - the limited dry-fitting I've done to date certainly indicated 'proceed with caution'. Love the marbling BTW,

 

R

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Looks like a great kit, and you're doing a lovely job with it. Thanks for the thorough documentation. I'd be tempted to buy one if I wasn't still wrestling with the 1/32 Special Hobby version.

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On 22/01/2020 at 13:22, RadMax8 said:

John, looks pretty good. One thing you can do to break up the edges is to do multiple layers with the mask using lighter and darker shades of the base color, so it all sort of blends together. May be worth trying on some plastic card or a paint mule!

thanks for the idea RadMax, I'll give that a go, as you suggest I'll try on a mule before letting loose on the model, I like the idea of 'dirtying-up' the undersides with this method as Jarek did in his video.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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6 hours ago, Christer A said:

Those marbling templates were a great shortcut!

it was so much quicker than "hand-marbling" and I'm sure that with practice I'll be able to get the "softer" edges I'm after and as RadMax suggested using lighter and darker shades should create a really nice effect.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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1 hour ago, TimT said:

Looks like a great kit, and you're doing a lovely job with it. Thanks for the thorough documentation. I'd be tempted to buy one if I wasn't still wrestling with the 1/32 Special Hobby version.

it is a really nice kit, the raised rivets on the fuselage are just something else, the only "tricky" part is making sure that the cockpit and radiator sub-assemblies are properly aligned as otherwise joining the fuselage halves would be very problematic, I'm not sure that I got the radiator properly seated.

My criteria for an excellent kit is "would I build it again", at this point I defiantly would, I do fancy making a "tug" version but unfortunately Eduard only sell the "specific" parts, different IP and tow cable set-up, in the Royal kit, and I don't really want to spend around £70 on that however if Eduard did a "conversion" or a weekend "TT.5" kit I'd get it in a heart beat.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Before starting on the topside camo’ the underside was masked.

49429764971_327834f42e_c.jpg

 

A very soft pencil was used to outline the camo’.

49429284583_349e567587_c.jpg

 

The outline was then confirmed with a 50/50 mix of levelling thinner and Tamiya XF-82 ocean gray 2 (RAF)

49429284533_9700132e6b_c.jpg

 

I reverted to hand-spraying the marble layer, rather than use the Jarek Rydzynski’s (JR Miniatures) masks.

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The marble layer was then blended with a heavily thinned 80/20 mix of XF-82.

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I don’t think that I thinned the paint enough, you can add extra layers of paint if you’ve “over-thinned” it, here the marble effect is not as pronounced as I’d like.

49429764516_a273475543_c.jpg

It’s not bad and I’m sure by the time I’ve faded and weathered the camo’ it’ll turn out OK.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be adding the green parts to the camo’.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49429764476_860a96832d.jpg

 

Once the grey had fully cured I used thin worms of white-tac and Tamiya tape to mask the grey in preparation of adding the green paint.

49434537027_fdc8f7b235_c.jpg

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The marble layer was applied with 50/50 levelling thinner and Tamiya XF-81 dark green 2 (RAF)

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This was then blended with a highly thinned 80/20 XF-81 (still wet when I took these photos).

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I’m happier with this layer, as opposed to the grey, I think that I didn’t thin the grey as mush as I normally would.

 

When the paint had dried I removed the white-tac and tape.

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Next I’ll be adding the Montex roundels and aircraft markings.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Looking really good. Really comes to life with the camo in place, and the painted roundels will keep all that lovely surface detail. How beaten up will you make? I know Typhoons could look pretty rough, but all the images of Tempests I've seen seem to be cleaner. 

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4 hours ago, TimT said:

Looking really good. Really comes to life with the camo in place, and the painted roundels will keep all that lovely surface detail. How beaten up will you make? I know Typhoons could look pretty rough, but all the images of Tempests I've seen seem to be cleaner. 

thanks TimT

 

my natural inclination is to make her daily well used however I've not seen any "well worn" Tempests, but my version is an "active duty" war-time bird so she will be far from spotless.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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