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Due to “life” getting in the way I’ve not been able to get any bench-time since last October so to ease myself back in I decided to build a kit that I picked up at Telford, Eduard’s 1:48 Tempest Mk.V series 2.

 

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Being a ProfiPACK the kit comes with paint masks and photoetch, however I prefer to paint the “big” markings, roundels and aircraft id’s so I’ve purchased a Montex mask set.

 

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The only other aftermarket will be the excellent Yahu instrument panel

 

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I’ll probably be going with EJ558 SD R as I like the V1 kills and the lighter spinner, this aircraft was flown by F/O B.F. Miller Bradwell Bay October 1944.

 

 

Next, as normal, I’ll be starting the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Many thanks to Sturmovik for “tipping me the wink” about the fragile cockpit tubing, I’m sure I’ll manage to snap it at some time but for-warned is for-armed, now I’ll only have myself to blame for any breakages.

 

So the first task was identifying which parts make up the cockpit and what could be assembled before paint and then to give everything a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

The cockpit interior and some detail.

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I added pedals and PE to the cockpit floor.

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These are the delicate side tubing/framework that Sturmovik mentioned.

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Here’s the seat.

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Most of the parts on this sprue were given a coat of primer.

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The undercarriage compartment will be the same colour at the cockpit, I've also painted the area where the shell ejection ports are, I'll leave this area black.

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Some detail(s) from the kit, this really is excellent.

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I remembered that Paul Budzik had done a 4 part video ‘build review’ of this kit, mainly on the series 1 version, and he has some good tips and recommendations for building it, I’ll be referring to videos throughout my build.

Heres a link to the first part…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRZZykgNNaA

 

 

Next I’ll be adding colour to the interior.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Looking good so far. I think you’re making the right choice as far as markings are concerned. 
 

I’ve got one of the old original Eduard Tempest kits in the stash... such a unique, brute of an aircraft. Same can be said of that kit 😄
 

Looking forward to seeing you work through this one. 

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Nice to see you back at work. I always liked the Tempest, and this kit looks to have some nice detail.

I passed by yesterday, From Colston Basset (Martin Arms) on the way into Nottingham.

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Tidy start and there looks to be plenty detail being brought out already :thumbsup:

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On 10/01/2020 at 16:20, RadMax8 said:

Looking good so far. I think you’re making the right choice as far as markings are concerned. 
 

I’ve got one of the old original Eduard Tempest kits in the stash... such a unique, brute of an aircraft. Same can be said of that kit 😄
 

Looking forward to seeing you work through this one. 

I really like the idea of the v1 scores, I may use some "artistic licence" and add some fuselage invasion stripes

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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On 10/01/2020 at 17:54, Sturmovik said:

How were you able to remove the cockpit tubing from the sprues without breaking them? 

Hi Sturmovik

 

I bought some (quite) expensive sprue cutters, they cost around £30...

 

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...these are 'anvil' single blade type so they don't twist either the sprue-gate or the part, they just cut cleanly

 

plus I was lucky

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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14 hours ago, Col. said:

Tidy start and there looks to be plenty detail being brought out already :thumbsup:

its a very nice kit, Eduard Spitfires have always been my favourite kits to build, I've still got 3 of them in the stash, but so far this kit is as good as, if not better, the riveting detail is first class.

 

I'm hoping that the build will continue as smoothly as it has so far, Paul Budzik's videos have some good pointers

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Some of the cockpit detail needed masking, Eduard says that they need to be flat black, before I gave them a coat of Alkan BS:283 grey/green.

I had intended to use Humbrol maskol, applied with a disposable micro brush, but when I opened the pot I found this…

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I’m a little miffed as this pot is only a year or so old, and the top was securely on! I had to revert to my old faithful Mr Masking Sol neo.

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This pot is, at least, 4-5 years old. The reason I swapped to the Humbrol version was application, neo has a brush attached to the cap and I’ve always found it a bit cumbersome as the brush, in my opinion, is too large. Then I had a “you’re an idiot” moment, why not use the disposable micro brush instead of the supplied applicator, so simple when you think about it! shame I didn’t before I wasted my money on the Humbrol, also the Humbrol really, really smells, reminds me of used cat litter so I’m not going to miss that!

 

Masking fluid and grey/green applied…

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Masking fluid removed..

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I’m not too worried about where I managed to scrape off the primer as I’m going to give this a coat of black anyway.

Rather than flat black, I’ve used Tamiya XF-69 NATO black.

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Talking of seepage, the Tamiya tape I applied obviously wasn’t burnished enough.

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The top part of the cockpit also needs to be black.

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I’m hoping that the saw tooth ‘end” won’t be seen once the fuselage is closed.

 

Behind the seat the headrest and upper part of the bulkhead are also black.

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The joystick also has a black hand grip.

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Next I’ll be adding the detail colours and cockpit PE.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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The panel was dry-brushed with both Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminium and XF-63 German grey, one of the switches was picked out with red.

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Dry-brushed with both XF-63 and XF-16.

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Eduard suggested that these switches should be gun metal however they’re far more noticeable in red.

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The footplates were hand-painted with vallejo 77.717 dull aluminium.

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Next I’ll be adding the PE and nailing the various parts together.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Great work so far 👍

 

Reference the Humbrol Maskol, I had the same problem recently with it. Everything Humbrol seem to be made as cheaply as possible now which is why I will not buy from them anymore. Last year I went to use some Clear Cote, which had gone very thick at the bottom of the bottle - it had been standing around for a couple of years so I had expected to have to mix it quite a bit anyway. When I sprayed it it did not go on as nice as this stuff used to, but I managed to get a reasonable look from it. Anyway about six hours later I looked at the bottle and it had already started to go thick at the bottom again. By the next morning it was just as bad as before I had mixed it the day before! 

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21 hours ago, The Crusty one said:

Looking good mate now I've finished the dirty I'm contemplating giving a proper kit a go...and I do have a Tempest in my stash🤔

"life" conspired to keep me away from the bench so I've put the Dragonfly on hold, too many ideas and I'm hoping that this will get me back in the swing so that I can get back to the kit-bashing malarky 😋

 

I've just had a look at the completed dirty and she's fantastic, great job!

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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19 hours ago, Tbolt said:

Great work so far 👍

 

Reference the Humbrol Maskol, I had the same problem recently with it. Everything Humbrol seem to be made as cheaply as possible now which is why I will not buy from them anymore. Last year I went to use some Clear Cote, which had gone very thick at the bottom of the bottle - it had been standing around for a couple of years so I had expected to have to mix it quite a bit anyway. When I sprayed it it did not go on as nice as this stuff used to, but I managed to get a reasonable look from it. Anyway about six hours later I looked at the bottle and it had already started to go thick at the bottom again. By the next morning it was just as bad as before I had mixed it the day before! 

thanks Tbolt

 

I was really disappointed that the maskol was useless so soon, I had used it for chipping but now I'll try the mr sol as its more or less the same thing

I'll no bother with any other Humbrol products.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Adding the harness to the seat and bulkhead.

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Additional straps will be added to the seat once I’ve fixed it in place.

 

Sidewall frames.

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Joystick added to the cockpit floor.

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This blurry image is part of the instruments that will be attached to the sidewall frame and main instrument panel.

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I gave everything a coat of Alclad aqua gloss and once it had cured, I left it overnight, used Tamiya panel line dark brown to give everything a slightly dirty look.

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Next I’ll be assembling the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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21 hours ago, (ex)Sgtrafman said:

Hiya

I have one of these in the stash and from the good job you’re making of yours it looks like a rather nice kit. 
keep up the good work mate.

cheers

Iain

thanks Sgtrafman

 

being a ProfiPACK there's plenty of PE to enhance the cockpit.

 

I'm sure you'll enjoy the kit when you get around to building it

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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After the Tamiya panel liner everything was given a coat of vallejo matt varnish and the cockpit frame assembled.

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Assembling the cockpit sub-assembly was rather tricky, there are seven parts that need nailing together, it was a bit of a juggling act but I started gluing from the back forward fixing the floor and sides, then the central bar that holds the IP and compass and finally the front/engine firewall.

 

I had bought a Yahu IP however the PE version supplied with the kit looked so good that I decided to use it and not the Yahu version.
The PE instrument panel is made up of 6 pieces fixed to a plastic part which will be glued to the central cross-piece.

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I still need to add the last couple of harness-straps and that’ll be the cockpit ready for installation into the fuselage.

 

 

 

Next I’ll be building the chin scoop and radiator so that I’ll be able to close the fuselage.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Originally I had thought that the only after market I would get for this build would be the Montex masks and Yahu instrument panel (which I decided not to use) however when I looked at the kit parts there was a couple of things that I thought could be improved. 

The first thing is the exhausts, whilst the kit supplied version are quite nice they are solid, Eduard’s brassin version appear to be hollowed out so I’ve opted to use the brassin ones.

One glaring admission is the very prominent intake ring that sits in front of the chin radiator, this is such an integral and iconic part I just don’t understand why its not included. As luck would have it Eduard brassin have produced a resin version.

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The brassin intake ring fitted to the front of the radiator and given a coat of vallejo 77.717 dull aluminium.

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This was then given a wash with Tamiya dark brown panel liner.

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The front of the “chin” intake was given a coat of Tamiya XF-83 sea grey2 and as suggested by Paul Budzik I found it easier to use the fuselage as a “jig” to align the various parts of the intake and radiator.

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Before joining the fuselage halves there are a few bits’n’pieces, ribs and instruments that need to be added to the sidewalls.

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Then the fuselage could be joined together.

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Next I’ll be starting work on the wheel wells and front wings.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Coming along rather nicely. That’s irritating that Eduard left out such a prominent piece, only to include it as an aftermarket item. Oh well, what’s another couple bucks?

 

Your forays with masking are interesting. I probably would have just brushed the black details in the cockpit, however I am pretty new to the liquid mask game...

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