Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: Could we just go back to that gorse bush? How do you “accidentally” burn down an entire bush? Careless disposal of cigarette on unwontedly dry Scottish afternoon? Test of survivalist flammenwerfer that went a little too well? Collateral damage of arson attack on rival paint company? It’s a concern... Some things are easier to show than describe in words. It's May 2014. I have just moved from a town to the countryside. I have 24 hours experience of living rurally. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 Right, I have been finishing the Australian order and starting the new American order. Woohoo. The new Royal Navy paints heading to Oz and the USA at last! On the flip side, I have absolutely not been in the mood for modelling at all due to work and various personal downers (not looking for sympathy - just expressing that sometimes when you have to be there for friends going through something terrible (e.g. a suicide) it's a bit emotionally draining and attention-demanding hobbies take a back seat). Come to think of it, January was an awful month. Anyway, my thumb has healed up and using a bigger saw I've cut new bits of acrylic for a second try at this watery malarkey. I also remembered I had this which I bought and used when heavily in to radio control flying model making and crafting my own fibreglass parts. I had to hunt through boxes that have sat undisturbed in the outbuilding since we moved here in May 2014. Keen to avoid another schoolboy error, I read the instructions on the back of the can. They recommend 3-5 coats of the wax for a new tool. We are currently on coat 2. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 8, 2020 Author Share Posted February 8, 2020 I've picked up a cold from my daughter. 4 coats of release wax has done the trick, but I have a new problem... As before we started with 250ml of polyester resin: In to that went 1 drop of green pigment, 1 drop of dark blue pigment and 3 drops of light blue pigment, thus: I share this because I want to show how far this stuff goes. It's easy to add more, but if you start from a position of incredulity and add a lot of pigment from the beginning, you'll ruin a lot of expensive resin! Once I have the colour I want, I add the hardener. If using epoxy in 50/50 ratios you can't do this, so you'll have to work relatively quickly with the pigmenting. This time I used a piece of hardwood as the base. In hindsight this was a mistake: We pour in the resin And this time the acrylic moulds pop off nicely, but the hardwood has allowed the entire thing to bow like a banana. This could be another expensive failure, but I'm using some thermonuclear clamps as the resin hardens up and cools. If this doesn't straighten it, I'll clamp it down onto a block of Iroko hardwood. Once I have a flat base, I'll reattach the moulds, install the submarine and finish the pour. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 8, 2020 Author Share Posted February 8, 2020 I think I'm happy to move forward. Concerned about keeping the boat secure, as well as with air bubbles under the keel, I have stuck the boat to the current surface of the resin using Humbrol Clearfix the full length of the keel. It only needs to be held in place until the resin surrounds the boat and cures, so I just need to be careful until then. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out I presume that you won't get a visible layer line between the first application of resin and the later one? Cheers, Stew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 14 hours ago, Stew Dapple said: I presume that you won't get a visible layer line between the first application of resin and the later one? Honestly I hope not but as yet can't be sure. What I am fairly confident of having felt this one during the day is that a bigger single pour would likely have overheated and melted the submarine / burned itself in the middle. I hope that by getting the same dose of pigments a second layer should not reveal itself, or at least not too obviously? We'll maybe find out today! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Looking very promising Jamie, can't wait to see the rest. Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 We can't yet call this a successful technique. It started off ok-ish. To answer Stew's question, the layer IS visible. The polyester resin has reacted with the paint a bit though. I don't know if it was a chemical reaction or a thermal one, but it's blistered the paint on the stern of the boat. Drat. I'll be able to disguise it from above alright when I add the surface texture from acrylic medium and add some wake, but I won't be able to pull the cotton-wool over anyones' eyes from the side I think we can safely say this isn't the way to do this. It needs to be done in a single pour, and that pour needs to be done with a resin that doesn't eat paint (which has now had plenty time to cure) and doesn't get too hot. I'll research some cold-cure epoxies next time around. 3 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard E Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Bahh, sorry to see that it hasn't worked as you hoped Jamie, I've been following this with some interest. It may be what you're already intending to do but would you be able to display the boat so it appears to be running on the surface and box in the sides of the resin to conceal the reaction damage ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 15 minutes ago, Richard E said: Bahh, sorry to see that it hasn't worked as you hoped Jamie, I've been following this with some interest. It may be what you're already intending to do but would you be able to display the boat so it appears to be running on the surface and box in the sides of the resin to conceal the reaction damage ? I might make a brass plaque bearing a brief insight into P311's story and place it strategically over that face 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stelangton Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Gutted for you, ive been looking into resin but after some reading it is far from simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 That is a damned shame mate. I had hoped the new resin might 'soften' the top surface of the previous layer and so blend invisibly. Cheers, Stew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
europapete Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 A new US paint order!!!! whoo hoo!! is that going to HB hobbies perchance?? hhmmm....??? I need the new NARN colors for my Hood. Regards, Pete in RI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 On 2/9/2020 at 6:23 PM, europapete said: A new US paint order!!!! whoo hoo!! is that going to HB hobbies perchance?? hhmmm....??? I need the new NARN colors for my Hood. Regards, Pete in RI It's not H&B Hobbies - it's a new dealer. Not a new company though I'm keeping their identity quiet until the owner is ready to announce, but there is a healthy quantity of the new NARNxxs in there. This week I became an expert in helicopter crashes, life jackets and life rafts. I now have my BOSIET or "offshore survival" ticket, so the boss can send me to do management visits. The course was good fun. I found 20 minutes to slap some artists heavy gel medium on the surface of the water. This stuff goes on opaque white but dries clear. I was pretty liberal with it so the bow wave is still white after about 48 hours. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
europapete Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Nice! thanks Jamie, will await the news with interest. Regards, Pete in RI. ps, that sub is rather nice too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 Nice recovery Jamie, that looks excellent Cheers, Stew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 That surface definitely hides the 'blemish' aft and below the water line. Looks great. Just got to get round the heating effect of the liquid resin. Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 14, 2020 Author Share Posted March 14, 2020 Motivation in general has been very low. I just added some cotton white water though I also used some elbow grease and began sanding down the 4 sides of the cast to see if flatting them would somewhat disguise the tide mark. It is reduced, but some angles still refract the light and show the layers clearly. Lesson learned : this wasn't the way to do it! It needs a bit more polishing up. I'd like to get it good enough to put at the back of the shelf. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 11 minutes ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said: It is reduced, but some angles still refract the light and show the layers clearly. Lesson learned : this wasn't the way to do it! It does look better though, maybe it's a cunning camera angle* but from the picture I wouldn't have seen the layers if I wasn't looking. Cheers, Stew * The same camera angle on which all of my models' photo's depend 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandsaw Steve Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 Thanks for posting those photos and showing the damage. A bit of a disappointment for you but a useful warning for the rest of us. I’m very interested in anything you might learn about low-temp resins. FWIW I would suggest blanking the sides of the resin off with an MDF or wooden frame to prevent people looking directly at the damaged sides. Force them to view the diorama from above. It looks great from above. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 14, 2020 Author Share Posted March 14, 2020 5 hours ago, Stew Dapple said: It does look better though, maybe it's a cunning camera angle* but from the picture I wouldn't have seen the layers if I wasn't looking. Cheers, Stew * The same camera angle on which all of my models' photo's depend Likewise I live and die on modelling forums by sympathetic camera angles! 4 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said: Thanks for posting those photos and showing the damage. A bit of a disappointment for you but a useful warning for the rest of us. I’m very interested in anything you might learn about low-temp resins. FWIW I would suggest blanking the sides of the resin off with an MDF or wooden frame to prevent people looking directly at the damaged sides. Force them to view the diorama from above. It looks great from above. Not all experiments are successful, but I figure it need not be in vain if keeping a record helps avoid the mistakes being repeated! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelholic Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 (edited) I've thought about clear bases to view the underwater parts of a model. Never tried it as I've never had the resources and motivation (and the heat issue). But I thought (if it ever got that far): Like you, make (or buy?) an upside down display case out of clear acrylic sheet and detail a seabed. At each vertical edge fix a clear insert to the required waterline to support another sheet of acrylic to represent the water's surface. Mix and colour resin. Pour resin into case and gently tilt the whole thing from side to side and back and forth so the resin climbs all the sides and eventually covers all the interior faces (rather like alcohol (booze) will cling to the side of a glass until the resin sets (this is one of the things I'm not certain about. Could someone twist the case until the resin had cured enough to adhere?) gotta think about the amount of resin needed Remove the top, cut hole for model's waterline, fix model in hole. Detail water surface as you want then fix surface (with model) to the rest of the case. Maybe chamfer bottom edges so they're not as noticeable from outside Have a think and feel free to pick holes. Tom Edited March 14, 2020 by Modelholic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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