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Short S23 Empire


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On 1/11/2020 at 8:34 AM, Beard said:

A smear of PPP will sort that.

“Smear of filler” is one of those great, vague modelling magazine phrases that suggest it’s all terribly easy.... but can actually cover anything from a hairline crack to a 5mm trench.  See also “swipe with a sanding stick”.  

Edited by Ex-FAAWAFU
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2 hours ago, JOCKNEY said:

when you started this that if was going to result in so much work !

Er, neither did I! Still, now I’ve got everything plugged together it’s kinda like a kit now. A kit that needs a lot of work, but a kit nonetheless.

 

[Edit - I’m going to think of it as a larger version of the FROG Oxford kit that I did in the Trainers GB last year - very similar work scheme with new interior, new canopy, Milliputted and reshaped wings, fabric effect tail, and engine/propeller mods]

 

Regards,

Adrian

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Hi Adrian,

 

I'm late to the party as usual but what a fascinating build so far!

 

Will be following and enjoying this

 

Geoff

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4 hours ago, Kitsticker said:

Will be following and enjoying this

Thanks Geoff! I am on a work trip and stuck in a hotel this weekend. I was thinking about bringing it with me to do something over the weekend but decided I had too much work to catch up on. When I saw the state of my case on the luggage carousel I was rather glad I didn't!

 

Regards,

Adrian

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  • 2 weeks later...

By ‘eck it’s hard to get your mojo back after a bit of time away from the bench.

 

Anyhow, I’ve cut away the coupe and vac formed a canopy today, so I’m back on the case:

7-B1-B4126-3-DAE-4-C7-F-BE06-C4-D04806475-D0-A087-F-DAE2-4-D07-A8-ED-3061-B380-E
01-C23675-A0-D7-4711-9-C5-D-FD4-A10-B399


the canopy mould isn’t made out of chocolate; when I smeared superglue all over the balsa I protected my fingertip with a sweet wrapper and the printing ink dissolved.

 

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There was a Short Seaford too, looked just like the Sunderland, known as the S23 and initially ordered as the Sunderland IV. And the Short Shetland.  This is a cracking project! well done!😀👍 Interesting to see vac form being done at home like this! Gotta admit i kinda like the injection kits! I did do a vac form of TSR 2, took me weeks but turned out to be a cracking model; had to make the landing gear from scratch and made a cockpit, jet pipes etc and sprays it white! all turning tail empennage! Looked great; at some point i'd like to get the TSR 2 Airfix kit!

 

Great work!

 

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I need to learn the art of this vac-forming lark - that canopy is lovely. Certainly a skill well worth having up one's sleeve...

 

Tom

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Thanks gents!
 

Today’s mission is to produce a 1936 patented Shorts reclining chair in the one true scale:

37-FC2-EB7-E89-C-4-D71-AE69-24-BFCBA7097
 

The sides, seat and back have just been tacked together with cockpit glue. I am going to disassemble them and try to get some moulding done, because I don’t fancy scratch building another 14!

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

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15 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

Thanks gents!
 

Today’s mission is to produce a 1936 patented Shorts reclining chair in the one true scale:

37-FC2-EB7-E89-C-4-D71-AE69-24-BFCBA7097
 

The sides, seat and back have just been tacked together with cockpit glue. I am going to disassemble them and try to get some moulding done, because I don’t fancy scratch building another 14!

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

(Sorry for captioning a picture, my phone won’t let me remove it) that seat looks comfy enough to sit on! Good idea re the moulding, the novelty would soon wear thin making another 141 from scratch! I asked my local model shop for some scratch but he didn’t have any!😂😂

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I wanted to try it out before I go to the gym (closes at 6) so here are a couple of Oyumaru moulds and the first two really quick and careless casts with using car body filler:

31103-D93-A9-C9-497-F-9-E7-C-8-FD1-A4-AC

99-C37-CFA-D7-BC-4-F08-BC4-E-6-A6-B35346

 

“Production”ones will be better because I will take more care!

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1 hour ago, AdrianMF said:

The sides, seat and back have just been tacked together with cockpit glue. I am going to disassemble them and try to get some moulding done, because I don’t fancy scratch building another 14!

 

Regards,

Adrian

I wish I could do the same many times, Adrian, I am not friendly with resin and molds, and am stuck with the repetitious work.

I am afraid you will have to do the same with the cutlery, the sandwiches and the scones for the tea service.

Looking good.

Cheers

 

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7 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

before I go to the gym

It's not enough for you all the sanding and the squatting looking for lost parts?

I don't even remember what a gym looks like. But the muscles in my eyes -after strenuously looking at all those small parts- are highly developed. It makes heads turn at the beach, I tell you.

 

Mr. Charles Atlas (1/72 developed)

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17 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

I wanted to try it out before I go to the gym (closes at 6) so here are a couple of Oyumaru moulds and the first two really quick and careless casts with using car body filler:

31103-D93-A9-C9-497-F-9-E7-C-8-FD1-A4-AC

99-C37-CFA-D7-BC-4-F08-BC4-E-6-A6-B35346

 

“Production”ones will be better because I will take more care!

I just watched a video on this mold rubber, looks like it works pretty easy. How soft does it get it you get warmer than warm water. Just thinking it might press onto a part better without breaking it, or is this not a problem? It can be reused right?

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I use Oyumaru regularly and the method I use is to heat up water in a pan and keep it on the simmer throughout my mouldings.  I tend to do about 10 items at a time and usually do two-part mould, for a better 3D effect.  I prepare the piece to be moulded and put a piece of Oyumaru into the hot water and leave it for about 3-5 minutes.  That way, it gets really soft and gooey.  There are two ways that I make my moulds: 1. leave the part on the bench and press down the Oyumaru onto it, this helps to push the mould into deep recesses on the part.  2. place the hot Oyumaru on the bench and push the part into it.  The benefit of second method is that the bench helps keep the mould level which is ideal when pouring resin into the open one-part mould.

The mould sets fairly quickly, usually about 10 minutes or so and sets quite solid. If I am making a two-part mould, then I usually put the first mould (with the part still attached) into the fridge to speed up the cooling/settling whilst I am warming up the second piece of mould.  If using the two-part method then it is advisable to spray the first mould with a releasing agent once cooled.

A word of caution,  Oyumaru sets to rigid mould once cooled and won't bend easily.  This means that it would be very difficult to remove form any undercuts on the part being copied.

If can post some images, next time I am doing some moulding, if you are interested.

The major benefit of Oyumaru, for me, is when I have cast enough of the parts I want, I can then pop the mould back into hot water and it becomes soft, ready to re-use on something else. That makes this a very economical method of mould making.

 

cheers,


Mike

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Very nice vacu canopy!

For copying part I am using silicon rubber (general use) and resin slow-fixation glue (24 hours). Works... One day I have to try this Oyomaru stuff, I naver heard before on it. In net I found that talc is a perfect separator for polymer resin from Oyumaru form.

Cheers

J-W

 

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5 hours ago, Moa said:

you will have to do the same with the cutlery, the sandwiches and the scones for the tea service

Well it does have a rather well-equipped galley with glass and plate racks...

 

5 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

It can be reused right?

Yes. My approach is to put the Oyumaru into a small bowl and then pour boiling water from a kettle over them. After a minute or so I take it out and knead it into a flat ball, then put it back in the water to heat some more. I’ve never done a two parter with it. I squish the Oyumaru down and inwards over the parts and leave it a minute or two before lifting it and taking the parts out. I stuck the chair parts to some decorators masking tape that was folded at the ends to keep it all still on the kitchen worktop. I find you can get a little bit of undercut, which is enough to mould a radial engine that will only be seen from the front. I don’t do two part moulds or separators and I usually cast with Milliput. 
 

@bootneck Mike you are an Oyumaru artiste! Sounds like proper casting whereas mine is just simple relief moulding. I originally got it to reproduce some twiddly plaster bits on an old mirror I was restoring.

 

@JWM I need to get back to “proper” casting but I didn’t spot any resin suppliers at SMW last year, so Oyumaru is my fallback.

 

So I have come to the conclusion that although car body filler dries satisfyingly quickly, it is far too brittle (and prone to bubbles, strangely enough) to mould the chair sides. After making eight chair mouldings I have enough sides for two chairs after breakages while removing from the mould or cleaning up the parts:

11-AF0808-1173-41-C5-92-C1-404-EBAFD0658

EEC4-DBF7-D84-A-4592-B9-F2-07-F7-C43-D4-

 

I still have to fill some bubbles on the built chairs too. Hopefully Milliput will make me a lot more productive!

 

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