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Me410 A-1 - FineMolds 1/72


CedB

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Go ahead Ced, just do it!

 

By the way, I had the same problem with the colours on my HE111. They look fine in person, but when photographed look totally different, sometimes green/brown, sometimes green/green with very little difference.

Either way, she's looking good, even the Barbie, sorry, barbette. (a small barbie?)

 

Ian

 

Edited by limeypilot
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At the risk of muddying the colour conundrum further...

 

42357296775_160bcaef88_b.jpg

 

I painted this Italeri Ju88 with Xtracrylix RLM 70 and 71. I am assured the lack of contrast between the shades is pretty accurate. I found the same contrast using Humbrol 241 and 242. 

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4 hours ago, (ex)Sgtrafman said:

Looking very good there Ced, really nice clean work, well done buddy.

 

Iain

Thanks Iain :) 

1 hour ago, limeypilot said:

Go ahead Ced, just do it!

[snip video]

 

By the way, I had the same problem with the colours on my HE111. They look fine in person, but when photographed look totally different, sometimes green/brown, sometimes green/green with very little difference.

Either way, she's looking good, even the Barbie, sorry, barbette. (a small barbie?)

 

Ian

 

Thanks Ian :) I'm not too bothered about the camo to be honest - my Luftwaffe 'collection' is quite small and in the corner of the ceiling.

At least it's consistently wrong!

1 hour ago, Heather Kay said:

At the risk of muddying the colour conundrum further...

[snip pic]

 

I painted this Italeri Ju88 with Xtracrylix RLM 70 and 71. I am assured the lack of contrast between the shades is pretty accurate. I found the same contrast using Humbrol 241 and 242. 

Thanks Heather :) My colours, or should I say Vallejo's, are nowhere near that to be honest - see below.

53 minutes ago, giemme said:

Impeccable decals posing, Ced! :clap: 

 

Ciao

Thanks Giorgio :) 

46 minutes ago, Spookytooth said:

Another one just about to land there Ced.

As for those little decals, don`t you love/hate them , a right royal pita.

 

Simon.

 

Thanks Simon :) Sometime I love them (these went on really well) and sometimes I don't!

 

 

Matt coat on, dry and then my favourite bit:

 

49390435082_b7fcf99784_z.jpg

 

Nowhere near Heather's but it is quite like the box:

 

49322623722_ee309076e6_z.jpg

 

:shrug:

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54 minutes ago, CedB said:

Nowhere near Heather's but it is quite like the box:

Ced, I like it. As I said somhwere, somtime ago it looks more like a Bundeswehr Norm 62/72 scheme (F-4/F104 etc.). And yes, the old Humbrol 91 enamel matches the colour the best imho.

400x377.jpg

But remember, that these colours also differed a bit from time to time, circumstances  and occasion then. It was war more and more and the production and the service had also to improve more and more. So, you should be a happy bunny with it, except of fixing the very tiny decals But you should also be lucky it was not a Phantom then.

Cheers

PS.: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airfixtributeforum/airfix-1-72-dornier-do17z-a05010-t45038-s30.html

Edited by bbudde
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10 hours ago, stevehnz said:

the instructions tell you to use "brack green" dig around & find some of that, you'll soon spot the difference.

I'm guessing Ced will also need to find some RLM65 Hellbrau! 😜

Mike

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1 hour ago, Heather Kay said:

That looks splendid whether the colours are right or not. :like:

Thanks Heather! :) 

1 hour ago, Hamden said:

 

Superb finish Ced a nice addition to your air force

 

         Roger

Cheers Roger, kind of you :) 

1 hour ago, giemme said:

Lovely finish and model, Ced! :clap:

 

Can you please tell what you are using as matt varnish? TIA

 

Ciao

Thanks Giorgio :) 

I use Winsor & Newton Galeria acrylic varnishes for all my final coats, thinned about 50/50. Great stuff IMHO.

1 hour ago, bbudde said:

Ced, I like it. As I said somhwere, somtime ago it looks more like a Bundeswehr Norm 62/72 scheme (F-4/F104 etc.). And yes, the old Humbrol 91 enamel matches the colour the best imho.

[snip pic]

 

But remember, that these colours also differed a bit from time to time, circumstances  and occasion then. It was war more and more and the production and the service had also to improve more and more. So, you should be a happy bunny with it, except of fixing the very tiny decals But you should also be lucky it was not a Phantom then.

Cheers

PS.: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airfixtributeforum/airfix-1-72-dornier-do17z-a05010-t45038-s30.html

Thanks Ben - useful info :) I think I've used H91 for the green on bombs and props in the past.

55 minutes ago, 72modeler said:

I'm guessing Ced will also need to find some RLM65 Hellbrau! 😜

Mike

Thanks Mike :D 

 

 

You know I wanted to show the bombs dropping from the bay, just like on the box?

Out with the bits:

 

49390609641_7142316b1e_z.jpg

 

I'm using 'invisible thread' - very strong and, er, invisible, which makes it hard to work with.

Four lengths CA'd in to the rack:

 

49390174233_e80cd113c5_z.jpg

 

… keeping the thread as upright as possible.

Then cut to length and affix the bombs.

Did it work?:

 

49390894202_e0d88d29b3_z.jpg

 

49390220248_940eff6570_z.jpg

 

That's a no then.

The thread is stronger than I thought and the bombs aren't heavy enough to straighten it out.

Rats.

 

Back to the drawing board…

 

If I can't think of a solution I'll just glue the bombs in the bay, hiding all that nice detail :( 

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3 minutes ago, CedB said:

If I can't think of a solution

I've never tried it, but maybe some Future, Erdal gänzer or so to get it more strong and stiff. It schould dry clear (and maybe invisible again?). Cheers

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29 minutes ago, CedB said:

...

If I can't think of a solution I'll just glue the bombs in the bay, hiding all that nice detail :( 

In an attempt to give some "constructive" input (and avoiding any further RLM color question):

- try to straighten the thread with a little heat and tension (before mounting it)

- replace thread with stretched sprue or wire (thin flexible copper wire or straight hard wire)

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1 hour ago, CedB said:

Thanks Giorgio :) 

I use Winsor & Newton Galeria acrylic varnishes for all my final coats, thinned about 50/50. Great stuff IMHO.

It really looks great, a very even finish. One more question - well, two actually: what do you thin it with? And have you ever tried mixing the matt varnish with anything gloss to get a satin finish? TIA

 

PS I hope you find a solution for those bombs, it would look very effective and dynamic - alas, I can't think of anything better than what others suggested... :shrug:

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme
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1 hour ago, Jochen Barett said:

- try to straighten the thread with a little heat and tension (before mounting it)

You might try brushing very thin CA on the thread to make it stiff like wire.

Mike

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3 hours ago, CedB said:

Did it work?:

 

49390894202_e0d88d29b3_z.jpg

 

The only time I've actually seen bombs drop is in old b&w ww2 films, and from what I recall they don't always drop in neat straight lines.... they look good to me like that - as Giorgio said, very dynamic! :)

 

But if you wanted to straighten the wayward bomb up a bit, how about sticking another line of thread to one of the upper fins?

 

K

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34 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

The only time I've actually seen bombs drop is in old b&w ww2 films, and from what I recall they don't always drop in neat straight lines....

Hello Keith. They dropped off everytime in the way they liked and wanted to do  Only Newton & friends were their headmasters then!  German, English, American, Russiian, Japanese, Italian, French ones. Did I missed one for that time? That was the reason, why they always had a back fuze then (And today, when they are more fiddly!!). Cheers

Edited by bbudde
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38 minutes ago, bbudde said:

They dropped off everytime in the way they liked and wanted to do 

I agree! If you look at footage of Luftwaffe, British, and American bombs being dropped, especially from bombers in level flight, you can see them wobble and point in different directions until such time as they cleared the turbulent air around the open bay and doors- then they settled down into a stable descent. The lighter bombs were especially wild and crazy upon release~! I think yours look pretty good to me, Ced, FWIW!

Mike

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3 hours ago, bbudde said:

I've never tried it, but maybe some Future, Erdal gänzer or so to get it more strong and stiff. It schould dry clear (and maybe invisible again?). Cheers

Thanks Ben :) I'm not sure the thread will take that :( 

3 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

In an attempt to give some "constructive" input (and avoiding any further RLM color question):

- try to straighten the thread with a little heat and tension (before mounting it)

- replace thread with stretched sprue or wire (thin flexible copper wire or straight hard wire)

3 hours ago, Heather Kay said:

That would be my vote, too.

Thanks Jochen and Heather :) 

Experiments! I like experiments… I think I'll try several methods and see which is best.

 

2 hours ago, giemme said:

It really looks great, a very even finish. One more question - well, two actually: what do you thin it with? And have you ever tried mixing the matt varnish with anything gloss to get a satin finish? TIA

 

PS I hope you find a solution for those bombs, it would look very effective and dynamic - alas, I can't think of anything better than what others suggested... :shrug:

 

Ciao

Thanks Giorgio :) 

I thin the varnish with water from the condensing dryer but any water would do I guess.

I don't need to mix as I have three of their varnishes; matt, satin and gloss (they're pretty cheap - 250ml for about £10 here if you shop around).

You'll have seen the first two in my previous builds but the gloss varnish doesn't get used much. Oh, wait, I could use that pre-transfers! 

 

2 hours ago, Martian Hale said:

That's looking rather tasty Ced.

 

Martian 👽

Thanks Martian, really appreciated :) 

 

2 hours ago, Beard said:

Regarding the bombs (and in the usual way blokes have of giving advice on doing things they've never done), I'd try using clear stretched sprue. 

Thanks Simon - it will be tried! :)

 

1 hour ago, 72modeler said:

You might try brushing very thin CA on the thread to make it stiff like wire.

Mike

Now that's an idea, thanks Mike. I'm not sure it'll take the twist out though :)

 

1 hour ago, keefr22 said:

 

The only time I've actually seen bombs drop is in old b&w ww2 films, and from what I recall they don't always drop in neat straight lines.... they look good to me like that - as Giorgio said, very dynamic! :)

 

But if you wanted to straighten the wayward bomb up a bit, how about sticking another line of thread to one of the upper fins?

 

K

Thanks Keith - another good idea :)

 

43 minutes ago, Uncle Uncool said:

:idea:Clear stretched sprue...!

It will be tried! Thanks UU :) 

 

1 minute ago, The Spadgent said:

Wow!!!! What a pic. See if you can get the wire thing working because that just ace.

paintwork and decals are amazing too. 👌👌👌

 

Johnny.

Thanks Johnny :)

 

OK, some experiments to be done - yeeeesss!

I've thought about trying sprue stretching before and Matt ( @bombernut ), who'd done it for his marvellous Gladiator, kindly outlined the steps when I asked here.

I also found a good video on YouTube here. He's using a lighter rather than a candle and says NOT to let the sprue catch fire, which makes more sense than another video that says you have to do it outdoors to avoid the fumes; not in this weather matey!

 

So, things I'll try; wire (if I can find some) but definitely stretched sprue and clear sprue.

Should be fun!

 

If it fails I'll go back to Keith's extra thread and Ben's 'they always drop wobbly :) 

Tomorrow!

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19 minutes ago, CedB said:

I'm not sure the thread will take that :( 

No Ced; No discussion from me of that, what you might have thought. It  was just a hint, that all did the same, what they were built for.  Pyhsically and irrelevant of what country!

Cheers Benedikt

Edited by bbudde
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