Brandy Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) Go ahead Ced, just do it! By the way, I had the same problem with the colours on my HE111. They look fine in person, but when photographed look totally different, sometimes green/brown, sometimes green/green with very little difference. Either way, she's looking good, even the Barbie, sorry, barbette. (a small barbie?) Ian Edited January 15, 2020 by limeypilot 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kay Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 At the risk of muddying the colour conundrum further... I painted this Italeri Ju88 with Xtracrylix RLM 70 and 71. I am assured the lack of contrast between the shades is pretty accurate. I found the same contrast using Humbrol 241 and 242. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Impeccable decals posing, Ced! Ciao 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Another one just about to land there Ced. As for those little decals, don`t you love/hate them , a right royal pita. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 4 hours ago, (ex)Sgtrafman said: Looking very good there Ced, really nice clean work, well done buddy. Iain Thanks Iain 1 hour ago, limeypilot said: Go ahead Ced, just do it! [snip video] By the way, I had the same problem with the colours on my HE111. They look fine in person, but when photographed look totally different, sometimes green/brown, sometimes green/green with very little difference. Either way, she's looking good, even the Barbie, sorry, barbette. (a small barbie?) Ian Thanks Ian I'm not too bothered about the camo to be honest - my Luftwaffe 'collection' is quite small and in the corner of the ceiling. At least it's consistently wrong! 1 hour ago, Heather Kay said: At the risk of muddying the colour conundrum further... [snip pic] I painted this Italeri Ju88 with Xtracrylix RLM 70 and 71. I am assured the lack of contrast between the shades is pretty accurate. I found the same contrast using Humbrol 241 and 242. Thanks Heather My colours, or should I say Vallejo's, are nowhere near that to be honest - see below. 53 minutes ago, giemme said: Impeccable decals posing, Ced! Ciao Thanks Giorgio 46 minutes ago, Spookytooth said: Another one just about to land there Ced. As for those little decals, don`t you love/hate them , a right royal pita. Simon. Thanks Simon Sometime I love them (these went on really well) and sometimes I don't! Matt coat on, dry and then my favourite bit: Nowhere near Heather's but it is quite like the box: 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kay Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 That looks splendid whether the colours are right or not. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Superb finish Ced a nice addition to your air force Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Lovely finish and model, Ced! Can you please tell what you are using as matt varnish? TIA Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) 54 minutes ago, CedB said: Nowhere near Heather's but it is quite like the box: Ced, I like it. As I said somhwere, somtime ago it looks more like a Bundeswehr Norm 62/72 scheme (F-4/F104 etc.). And yes, the old Humbrol 91 enamel matches the colour the best imho. But remember, that these colours also differed a bit from time to time, circumstances and occasion then. It was war more and more and the production and the service had also to improve more and more. So, you should be a happy bunny with it, except of fixing the very tiny decals But you should also be lucky it was not a Phantom then. Cheers PS.: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airfixtributeforum/airfix-1-72-dornier-do17z-a05010-t45038-s30.html Edited January 15, 2020 by bbudde 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 10 hours ago, stevehnz said: the instructions tell you to use "brack green" dig around & find some of that, you'll soon spot the difference. I'm guessing Ced will also need to find some RLM65 Hellbrau! 😜 Mike 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Heather Kay said: That looks splendid whether the colours are right or not. Thanks Heather! 1 hour ago, Hamden said: Superb finish Ced a nice addition to your air force Roger Cheers Roger, kind of you 1 hour ago, giemme said: Lovely finish and model, Ced! Can you please tell what you are using as matt varnish? TIA Ciao Thanks Giorgio I use Winsor & Newton Galeria acrylic varnishes for all my final coats, thinned about 50/50. Great stuff IMHO. 1 hour ago, bbudde said: Ced, I like it. As I said somhwere, somtime ago it looks more like a Bundeswehr Norm 62/72 scheme (F-4/F104 etc.). And yes, the old Humbrol 91 enamel matches the colour the best imho. [snip pic] But remember, that these colours also differed a bit from time to time, circumstances and occasion then. It was war more and more and the production and the service had also to improve more and more. So, you should be a happy bunny with it, except of fixing the very tiny decals But you should also be lucky it was not a Phantom then. Cheers PS.: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airfixtributeforum/airfix-1-72-dornier-do17z-a05010-t45038-s30.html Thanks Ben - useful info I think I've used H91 for the green on bombs and props in the past. 55 minutes ago, 72modeler said: I'm guessing Ced will also need to find some RLM65 Hellbrau! 😜 Mike Thanks Mike You know I wanted to show the bombs dropping from the bay, just like on the box? Out with the bits: I'm using 'invisible thread' - very strong and, er, invisible, which makes it hard to work with. Four lengths CA'd in to the rack: … keeping the thread as upright as possible. Then cut to length and affix the bombs. Did it work?: That's a no then. The thread is stronger than I thought and the bombs aren't heavy enough to straighten it out. Rats. Back to the drawing board… If I can't think of a solution I'll just glue the bombs in the bay, hiding all that nice detail 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 3 minutes ago, CedB said: If I can't think of a solution I've never tried it, but maybe some Future, Erdal gänzer or so to get it more strong and stiff. It schould dry clear (and maybe invisible again?). Cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 29 minutes ago, CedB said: ... If I can't think of a solution I'll just glue the bombs in the bay, hiding all that nice detail In an attempt to give some "constructive" input (and avoiding any further RLM color question): - try to straighten the thread with a little heat and tension (before mounting it) - replace thread with stretched sprue or wire (thin flexible copper wire or straight hard wire) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kay Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 3 minutes ago, Jochen Barett said: replace thread with stretched sprue or wire (thin flexible copper wire or straight hard wire) That would be my vote, too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, CedB said: Thanks Giorgio I use Winsor & Newton Galeria acrylic varnishes for all my final coats, thinned about 50/50. Great stuff IMHO. It really looks great, a very even finish. One more question - well, two actually: what do you thin it with? And have you ever tried mixing the matt varnish with anything gloss to get a satin finish? TIA PS I hope you find a solution for those bombs, it would look very effective and dynamic - alas, I can't think of anything better than what others suggested... Ciao Edited January 15, 2020 by giemme 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 That's looking rather tasty Ced. Martian 👽 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beard Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Regarding the bombs (and in the usual way blokes have of giving advice on doing things they've never done), I'd try using clear stretched sprue. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Jochen Barett said: - try to straighten the thread with a little heat and tension (before mounting it) You might try brushing very thin CA on the thread to make it stiff like wire. Mike 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 3 hours ago, CedB said: Did it work?: The only time I've actually seen bombs drop is in old b&w ww2 films, and from what I recall they don't always drop in neat straight lines.... they look good to me like that - as Giorgio said, very dynamic! But if you wanted to straighten the wayward bomb up a bit, how about sticking another line of thread to one of the upper fins? K 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 2 hours ago, Jochen Barett said: - replace thread with stretched sprue Clear stretched sprue...! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) 34 minutes ago, keefr22 said: The only time I've actually seen bombs drop is in old b&w ww2 films, and from what I recall they don't always drop in neat straight lines.... Hello Keith. They dropped off everytime in the way they liked and wanted to do Only Newton & friends were their headmasters then! German, English, American, Russiian, Japanese, Italian, French ones. Did I missed one for that time? That was the reason, why they always had a back fuze then (And today, when they are more fiddly!!). Cheers Edited January 15, 2020 by bbudde 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 4 hours ago, CedB said: bombs. Did it work?: Wow!!!! What a pic. See if you can get the wire thing working because that just ace. paintwork and decals are amazing too. 👌👌👌 Johnny. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 38 minutes ago, bbudde said: They dropped off everytime in the way they liked and wanted to do I agree! If you look at footage of Luftwaffe, British, and American bombs being dropped, especially from bombers in level flight, you can see them wobble and point in different directions until such time as they cleared the turbulent air around the open bay and doors- then they settled down into a stable descent. The lighter bombs were especially wild and crazy upon release~! I think yours look pretty good to me, Ced, FWIW! Mike 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 3 hours ago, bbudde said: I've never tried it, but maybe some Future, Erdal gänzer or so to get it more strong and stiff. It schould dry clear (and maybe invisible again?). Cheers Thanks Ben I'm not sure the thread will take that 3 hours ago, Jochen Barett said: In an attempt to give some "constructive" input (and avoiding any further RLM color question): - try to straighten the thread with a little heat and tension (before mounting it) - replace thread with stretched sprue or wire (thin flexible copper wire or straight hard wire) 3 hours ago, Heather Kay said: That would be my vote, too. Thanks Jochen and Heather Experiments! I like experiments… I think I'll try several methods and see which is best. 2 hours ago, giemme said: It really looks great, a very even finish. One more question - well, two actually: what do you thin it with? And have you ever tried mixing the matt varnish with anything gloss to get a satin finish? TIA PS I hope you find a solution for those bombs, it would look very effective and dynamic - alas, I can't think of anything better than what others suggested... Ciao Thanks Giorgio I thin the varnish with water from the condensing dryer but any water would do I guess. I don't need to mix as I have three of their varnishes; matt, satin and gloss (they're pretty cheap - 250ml for about £10 here if you shop around). You'll have seen the first two in my previous builds but the gloss varnish doesn't get used much. Oh, wait, I could use that pre-transfers! 2 hours ago, Martian Hale said: That's looking rather tasty Ced. Martian 👽 Thanks Martian, really appreciated 2 hours ago, Beard said: Regarding the bombs (and in the usual way blokes have of giving advice on doing things they've never done), I'd try using clear stretched sprue. Thanks Simon - it will be tried! 1 hour ago, 72modeler said: You might try brushing very thin CA on the thread to make it stiff like wire. Mike Now that's an idea, thanks Mike. I'm not sure it'll take the twist out though 1 hour ago, keefr22 said: The only time I've actually seen bombs drop is in old b&w ww2 films, and from what I recall they don't always drop in neat straight lines.... they look good to me like that - as Giorgio said, very dynamic! But if you wanted to straighten the wayward bomb up a bit, how about sticking another line of thread to one of the upper fins? K Thanks Keith - another good idea 43 minutes ago, Uncle Uncool said: Clear stretched sprue...! It will be tried! Thanks UU 1 minute ago, The Spadgent said: Wow!!!! What a pic. See if you can get the wire thing working because that just ace. paintwork and decals are amazing too. 👌👌👌 Johnny. Thanks Johnny OK, some experiments to be done - yeeeesss! I've thought about trying sprue stretching before and Matt ( @bombernut ), who'd done it for his marvellous Gladiator, kindly outlined the steps when I asked here. I also found a good video on YouTube here. He's using a lighter rather than a candle and says NOT to let the sprue catch fire, which makes more sense than another video that says you have to do it outdoors to avoid the fumes; not in this weather matey! So, things I'll try; wire (if I can find some) but definitely stretched sprue and clear sprue. Should be fun! If it fails I'll go back to Keith's extra thread and Ben's 'they always drop wobbly Tomorrow! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) 19 minutes ago, CedB said: I'm not sure the thread will take that No Ced; No discussion from me of that, what you might have thought. It was just a hint, that all did the same, what they were built for. Pyhsically and irrelevant of what country! Cheers Benedikt Edited January 15, 2020 by bbudde 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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