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brian davey

Pocher 1/8 Rolls Royce Sedanca - New Build & Member

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A New Glue Applicator...

The little black wire sticks are used for knotting Pearls and Beads.
They are very flexible and you can put the smallest amount of glue on either end.

Available at Bead and Beading Stores

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My Hobby Room...

It is a large room with a spot for modeling and a spot for painting. Behind the far wall is a room for storing paint, supplies and models.

 

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I am guessing that you have over 300 plus models, I tried counting but it is impossible to do.

But you have it very well organized, and I’ll bet you know where everything is.

I ordered a digital caliper, and a friend gave me his older dial caliper to test drive.

In regards to your multitude collection of tools, I am not able to figure out what you have, major bucks invested for sure.

Thank you for the pictures!

 

I also ordered an Molotow chrome pen, I had not heard of this device until I read about it on this site. I assume one uses it like a mini paint brush.

 

Codger...

Your finished “Book” is nothing short of miraculous. The amount of labor that went into it’s construction is unimaginable. I refer to it daily, and am not even close to finishing it. It would be an outstanding actual book, I could only guess at the cost to

print a 450 page book with all those pictures.

I speak for myself, that I am grateful for your hard work.

 

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20 hours ago, larchiefeng said:

My room is not quite as neat as yours, lol :oops:

That's not a room that's a model shop!

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LOL :rofl:Thanks guys! Just like with the tools, I accumulated the models over the course of the last 20 years or so thinking that, when I retired I would have the time to build them. I started picking up things that interested me and that, I thought were cool and sometimes different subjects. But, it got way out of hand and it became a case of “my eyes were bigger than my stomach”! I think that, there’s slightly over 500 models there. What you don’t see is all the models underneath the workbench counter and in the build up etc. Here’s where the irony comes into play; now having just officially re-retired yesterday and now having nothing to keep me off the bench like, a pesky job, my wife has a new list for me. However, that’s not the ironic part, it’s that now my interest is pretty much just models like the Pochers and more specifically the F-40 I’m working on. So, besides looking at my “wallpaper” what do I do with all these models that will never get built? I think that I’m slightly over stocked! I don’t want my wife and kids to just throw it all away when I die and I’m not crazy about selling everything on eBay and giving them and PayPal 13%-15% of the proceeds essentially taking any and all of my profits while I do all the work! Anyway, I really do need to start thinning the collection down to just the few kits that, I would like to keep. Which, when you think about how long it takes to build one, isn’t many. So, if any of you guys have any ideas, I’m open for suggestions.

Real quick, on the Molotow pens, they are like a smaller marker pen tip and they come in different tip sizes. They are pretty easy to use and, yes, I have a couple in one of the paint drawers. The one tool that I am going to get out and start experimenting with and trying to use is the mini lathe. I was looking at a couple of pictures of the waste gates on the F-40 and, there’s a picture of a polished aluminum one. And, I thought that the lathe would probably be a good idea to make one with more detail than the plastic kit piece. So, that is on my agenda. 
Anyway, Brian, I didn’t mean to hijack your thread but, if you have any questions about a specific tool, just ask; I probably have it -_-

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Thanks for stopping by...243-FFA7-D-DB38-414-D-96-C0-8-B806-DFC74Well, I spent the last couple of weeks deciding on my construction game plan.

Before I add the rest of the engine parts I wanted to get these various lines installed. I am sure that doing them later would be rather difficult, they were very trying to install. Some of the lines are sitting in place so I can decide if I like them or not, I can see that the fuel gauge is a bit wonky.

Thanks for looking!

 

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71923-BCA-9-BFB-4269-A757-4-ACB005-F88-AThanks for stopping by...02-F6-ABAC-4-E0-C-4-BF4-B5-D0-9-C5-CF160243-FFA7-D-DB38-414-D-96-C0-8-B806-DFC74CF0-C7-DC1-51-DD-4311-9479-ACF465-FEA3-AE78-B6-F8-C-97-CF-4121-AC57-675-C6417968A few more pictures of the engine, the MMC carburetor, gaskets for the timing case and engine. I have no idea what colour the gaskets should be, any ideas?

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The head gaskets were copper, .040" thick. There are 2 cylinder cases with 3 barrels each. The valve cover gasket was dark cork brown.

head07-Custom.jpg

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Hey Brian, looking pretty good.

Make sure you have those parts available as you go along so you are sure they don’t interfere with each other.

Im at about the same point as you but I will be delayed somewhat. House is going on the market.

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Codger,

I have been unsuccessful in finding pictures like the one above,  an you please direct me to your site.

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There is no one site. Keep searching for Phantom II information and restorations. Search 1:1 auction sites and other international model sites for Pocher Rolls builds.

Well-meaning advice; do not add details unless you have a thorough automotive mechanical understanding. Many things other modelers do can be 'wrong'.

Concentrate on the basics of a sound build and less on details.

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Greetings All!,

This is my first car model since I constructed a 1/16 Rolls Royce many years ago, primarily I had been focusing on 1/350 WWII battleships.

 

I have been primarily  following the Koo DVD, I am not so sure that I have the skills to do the “extreme” building techniques as others have shown so beautifully.

I also feel that attempting some modifications as the build progresses is a good thing, if they turn out poorly I can always remove said ‘extremes’.

This build is a journey for me, and not an easy one, but is truly a way to learn and grow without losing my mind.

 

As always, thank you for looking and leaving comments good and not so good.

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Hello,

I just placed an order for the Rolls Royce “Leaf Springs” and Clevises, plus a few bolts, screws and nuts.

I’m pleased, and am very happy with how all the various fluid lines turned out. I used as my inspiration Codgers iconic RR build, of course, within reason! 

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Note to both; the fronts are 3mm too long and nothing can be done about it. Thankfully the shackles extend enough to allow the spring to clear the frame. See their installation in my thread. Also see my thread about shimming the axle to lower the car a bit in front. It is vital to have the wheels and tires assembled so ride height can be determined when the springs get installed.

I'll say it again - concentrate on these basics before concern for oil lines, clevises and the like.

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Greetings,

 

Codger, thank you for the gasket colour, I’ve already painted them.

I got the suggested lines from Koo’s dvd, I installed all but two of them, I think.

 

When I finish “Engine II” according to the dvd, I think I will skip to the ‘Wire Wheels’, since that was recommended by you and Wayne, but, I am not so sure why, could it be that builders falter and quit when tackling them?

 

This build is a lot of highly detailed work, certainly more than I thought.

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39 minutes ago, brian davey said:

When I finish “Engine II” according to the dvd, I think I will skip to the ‘Wire Wheels’, since that was recommended by you and Wayne, but, I am not so sure why, could it be that builders falter and quit when tackling them?

This build is a lot of highly detailed work, certainly more than I thought.

YES! There are 870 total parts in the 5 wheels ! They are neither concentric, symmetrical or warp-free. They are plastic and metal. They may have corrosion on them from being near 4 decades old.  All  the rim parts require close inspection and adjusting. They require a much more solid jig than Pocher gives you. I lay it all out in the very early part of my thread. Koo does not go to the lengths I did to get them right. Wayne and I have warned you of this for very good reason.

Clearly - 'more than you thought'. You should spend a week just checking every major part for symmetry and correcting- I have demonstrated there is much variance in the plastic moldings Pocher supplies - body, frame, interior . If you don't, nothing will fit right. Get familiar which fasteners must be changed for the repeated ability to assemble and remove parts for mock-ups.

These are the details you should concern yourself about first - not plumbing, wiring or decoration.

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Welcome to my Thread,

 

C - I am painting the engine gaskets copper per your suggestion. It appears that there are other colors. I can’t make out what you did, please share. I thought of putting a light wash of Vallejo brown to tone down the copper.

 

Did you paint all of the chrome like parts for the transmission and brakes black? I am doing painting tomorrow and would like to get them all painted.

 

As always, thank you for your advice and sage council.

 

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I don’t think that there’s a “standard” color for a lot of the pre-war classic car engine parts. I don’t know about the Rolls-Royce for sure but, I would imagine that, of any of the pre-war cars they might be the most likely to have had something of a standard color palate. When I was building the engine for my Alfa Monza and ,doing research on the colors of the engine, I found a wide variety of colors. I talked to David Cox about that and he told me that back then there was no such thing as a standard color for engine or transmission parts for the Alfa’s. They just used whatever color in a can of paint that they had on hand. I suspect that the Rolls-Royce factory might have been a little more discerning in that regard than, the Italians.
The point that I’m trying to make is, I wouldn’t get too hung up on whether or not you have the exact perfect color on a particular engine part. When the model is finished the bonnet/hood will likely either be closed or partially open and it’s likely to stay that way. It’s probably going to be inside of a case to be admired from a distance; you will not be handling it. Likewise the the chassis and undercarriage will probably never be seen unless you have a mirror under the model. These models are big and heavy and with lots of small detail, you will not be picking it up to show off the brakes or transmission. So, with that in mind I think that whatever looks right will probably be fine.

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Hello All,

No, I have not packed up the Sedanca and put it on a shelf, in a fit of frustration. I am committed to this incredible model, and will Never, EVER quit!

Famous last words...

 

What I have been doing is reading through many of the threads on this site. For the reason that I have learned a lot of building ideas which I am incorporating in my build. There is incredible model building on this site, I might say better than anywhere else on the Web.

 

Secondly, advice has been offered about my approach to this build, I am grateful for this advice. Should I build an OOB build or one with ‘extra’ ‘extreme’ detailing as offered by my resources.

 

The only way to learn is by doing, so after time looking at my options I have decided to learn, will the outcome be as good as some of the excellent builders, who knows. I have spent a considerable sum on aftermarket parts from MMC, for the most part, just about everything.

I have also purchased replacement Pocher Sedanca parts in case I have a disaster.

 

Please feel encouraged to leave a comment. This is my first automobile model in many years. I have been building WWII ships for years and wanted to try something new.

 

NOW.............HELP.......

If you look in the front of the engine in the picture, you will see a mangled piece of plastic.

That plastic lump was a distributor cap, somehow it fell off my modeling table,

my dog found and chewed it, of course it is now useless.

Does anyone have a spare?

The Dog Ate It!,,,,,,,

Thank you for looking, and much more to follow!

 

 

 

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If I may...first off...you really need to come to a solid decision about how far you are willing to push yourself on this build then...having done that...commit yourself to that decision.

Trust me on this...all the advice and after market bits and pieces available to you...will not make your build stand out...only personal commitment and dedication can lift it to another level.

I have entered several different arena's during my 45 year time in modelling and...no matter the subject...nothing truly worthwhile can be achieved without those two attributes above.

This much I can say with certainty...in choosing a Pocher 'classic'...you have entered one of the most demanding arena's there is in car modelling...even modern...so called Pocher kits...require a level of understanding and application few others can compare too.

My personal impression of yourself is of someone who wants to learn but...is still not confident in applying the advice of others to their own work/project...as evidenced by your asking if anyone has a spare for the chewed piece...when really...you should be trying to make one.

Please don't think I am criticising you for that...all I am trying to illustrate is your need to look at what you have in front of you right now...and realise how fortunate you are...just to be able to afford such a kit...plus all the extras bits...and simply enjoy yourself at your own level.

 

Kindest regards

 

Ron

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