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brian davey

Pocher 1/8 Rolls Royce Sedanca - New Build & Member

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😜 Well, I got it to work!

Pictures one and three are just before I took the engine apart.

Picture two, the cables for the generator.

Titanic by Academy.

Wires on the generator, I know they are located incorrectly, but at the moment I will leave well enough alone.

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Well I see you've mastered photos-excellent.

Beautiful Titanic and case - a favorite of mine.

Now make regular updates to WIP. There's already plenty of reference here.

C

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Some kind of maple for the interior of the Roller.

And, the bumpers I purchased on EBay from Germany. 

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Recent update, with the extra oil line, just about everything is removable pending comments.

My sad little engine stand, however, it works, be kind!

42-E822-AE-88-C7-4093-A402-64-A88252-B0-

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Go into my thread above and find the engine pix taken outdoors on the wooden stand.

You have the following errors in yours. Depending on how accurate you wish to be, here are the errors:

The rag joints on the magneto drive are wrong - they should be at each end of the shaft.

The oil feed line on the block must be fed by additional line (at the front) which traverses the front of the block and runs on carburetor side, starting at the oil pump. Haddock's plans will show you this too.

The pipe you added to the oil pan must have a fitting on it where it screws into the pan. I think it was either a 2mm nut or 0-80 nut-depending on the size of your pipe.

Put more bracing on that wood stand or it will collapse as the engine gets heavier.

C

 

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Codger,

I have looked at JRH: Super Detailing of the RR, on pages 17, 18, and 19. I can not see where the extra fuel line wraps around to the carburetor side.

- In regards to the line that I added, I will plan to do as you suggest be having it wrap around.

- I’ll add the nuts to the lines on the oil pan.

And beef up my sad stand!

As always, thank you.

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Mr C,

 

1) Should I install the engine oil lines first before I place the extra oil line?

 

2) I have been using 2mm aluminum tubes, and 1mm solder for the lines, and 1mm hex nuts that are cut off. Am I on the right track, I would prefer to do this assembly once, for removing glued on lines makes a mess of the paint. Just about everything in my pictures can be removed, except the oil line.

 

I sent an email to David Cox enquiring about how they lowered the blue and cream RR in their Building the Sedanca digital book.

I am troubled by how complicated that whole procedure of lowering the body is, luckily I have a spare set of body parts.

 

Your resurrection of the RR build is very inspiring, but very daunting. I have been carefully reading and note taking of your work.


I apologize for taking so long in sorting out the picture situation. In reality it is 4 simple steps, I spent two weeks attempting to make it happen.

B

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