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brian davey

Pocher 1/8 Rolls Royce Sedanca - New Build & Member

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4 minutes ago, Codger said:

glaring inaccuracies

Thanks Codger , bearing in mind the size and cost of these cars , surely they can get very close , if not more or less spot on to the correct dimension with nowhere near as much difficulty as 1/24th or 1/72nd /HO/OO scales . 

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17 minutes ago, bzn20 said:

 

Thanks Codger , bearing in mind the size and cost of these cars , surely they can get very close , if not more or less spot on to the correct dimension with nowhere near as much difficulty as 1/24th or 1/72nd /HO/OO scales . 

You must bear in mind that these kits are 4 decades old and Pocher does not exist anymore.

They were groundbreaking and sensational in their day. I saw an assembled Sedanca in my hobby store's case in 1979 and it inspired me until 2014 when I finally bought and started this one.

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In the early seventies I wanted to purchase one of these kits, at the time my parents were not having any part of me spending if memory serves $200.00 on it.

Forgot about until I saw the Pocher RR site on EBay.

 

Mr. C, thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, I ‘ll try to keep them at a minimum in the future. Your ever expanding thread will be very helpful.

 

I should have waited awhile before purchasing a vast amount of upgrades, but I got a bit over enthusiastic.

BWmD

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9 minutes ago, brian davey said:

Mr. C, thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, I ‘ll try to keep them at a minimum in the future. Your ever expanding thread will be very helpful.

 

 

Ask anything you need. I'm just happy there's value in my experiences.

A ray of light in my thread; I've discovered a possible but time-consuming fix. Working to correct it now.

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C

Your experience is unmeasurable, while I’m not the least bit frustrated, I am keeping a log of what needs to be done and how to do it. Perfect for my OCD/ADD brain - organization is the key word.

 

This build is a blast, much easier so far than learning/memorizing a new piece of music, Ugh. I forgot to mention that I built 3, Jo-han 1/24 scale Cadillacs: Town Brougham, Phaeton, and Cabriolet, these models date to the 60’s and 70’s. They turned out rather well except I did not know you could stripe the chrome, as those parts look awful. 

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Actually, you were pretty smart to buy the upgrades now because you can plan ahead to install them during the build. I bought a lot as I went on and wound up having to redo a lot of things to incorporate the MMC upgrades after the fact. 

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Wayne,

I have been reading through your F40 build, it is truly remarkable, the amount of detail is far more than I thought possible. Amazing!

 

Brian

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Thanks Brian! I wouldn’t worry about bothering Codger with any question or advice that you might need, he has a wealth of knowledge and is more than happy to share. Being retired, I know that he likes to look at the forums, especially if it’s a Pocher build and “really especially if it’s a POCHER ROLLS-ROYCE!!” He has so much experience with this particular model he would love to help someone else build another high quality Roller! It almost makes me wish that I had one to build but, I still have a while to go with the F40. I have a started Pocher Alfa Monza and behind that is a crazy idea to modify another Pocher Mercedes K82 cabriolet roadster into the Mercedes Special Roadster using David Cox’s book for reference. This is my all time favorite Mercedes and I just hope that I live long enough to take it on. 

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Greetings All,

 

I love receiving a big package from MMC. I recently ordered the Sedanca fenders, they are enormous, reason that I spent the dough on them is that I don’t like the look of the Barker (or other builders) fenders.

The box also contained all the RR lights that are available (headlight, spot, driving, running and tail lights), and various rods and tubes of numerous dimensions.

 

On the construction side, modifications and additions to the engine, upper and lower parts are progressing.
I made a quick trip to the hoppy shop and picked up some Alcatel paint bottles, and Tamiya paint as used by Wayne on his F40, 1/8 Ferrari. Wayne and Mr.C are consummate builders par excellence.

For educational purposes, I have been reading all the builds in the ‘Works in Progress’, so many talented people!

 

Mr. C, I have NO experience whatsoever in using washes/weathering. What I am finding as the build progresses, finished and painted bits look sterile. The finish need some form of depth and dimension.

I want this Pocher to look as if I walked into HR Owens in 1932 an ordered a Sedanca, that is brand new,

So Mr. C. anything that you can offer in the washes department will be greatly appreciated 

 

Now the pictures, I am waiting to hear from ‘post image’ for assistance, the site is claiming that there are two email accounts with same address, I believe I caused this when I retyped my email address and new password for a second time. I really want to share my work for advice and comments.

 

I’ll take any advice from anyone who wants to share.

 

You guys/gals are amazing builders, tis’ very humbling.

Brian

 

 

 

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Brian, I fear you are suffering from an overload of parts and well-meaning information from all who have responded to you.

I hope you get a square and plumb chassis under you FIRST and then study details and finishes. Those things will be lost on a model that does not sit right.

Wish I could help you on the Postimg situation because I'd like to see your past work and what you're up to with this. But I too am held hostage by the server failure.

To see washes/distress and patina you need only look at my thread above (so far) and see the engine and firewall going together. Every 'running' portion of my car carries patina, leaks or distress. The cabin has wrinkles and crumples in the leather. The materials I used to create them are also revealed there.

To do that in depth you need a whole pallet of materials (not just one jar of paint) and I'll list the main ones here again:

Craft acrylics, (browns, blacks, grays, white, khaki, yellows, coral), enamels, (and both their thinners) pencil graphite, Rub n'Buff (2 golds and silver, thin with mineral spirits) and --I'll think of the rest sooner or later. Most all of this is applied by brush.

If you attempt advanced features you must be a capable hand with silver solder, aluminum and brass. The iron is also a good tool for heating small parts in place. Taps and dies as well. You'll see that a bit later in my thread. You will cut veneer and Lexan so be prepared for that.

And remember that for the car you hope to build, Dave Cox will be a far more valuable resource than I.

C

 

 

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Patience grasshopper! One quick tip on the headlight lenses from MMC. The pattern is printed on the surface of the plastic and will come off if handled too much with your bare hands. I'm assuming that, the process is the same as they used on the Mercedes and I found that out the hard way. Fortunately Marvin replaced the one I rubbed off the pattern on. I used SMD LED's in place of the bulbs supplied and thinner gauge wire than MMC gives you. However you are quite a ways off from that yet. On a side note, Dave Cox gave me the miniature toggle switch that turns my lights on. I mounted it inside the transmission and the gear shift lever turns the lights on/off when shifted. When you add lighting space becomes a premium and the smaller the wire the easier it is to run. This is one of those things that, you want to plan ahead for.

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Hello,

I forgot to mention that the MMC package contained the Landau Bars, Front Bronze Axle, Shift and Brake Levers and screws & nuts.

 

As I think ahead I write all the contributed comments down, and my construction  plans present and future, it all goes in my builder book.

 

I might add I suffered a severe head injury in a fall back in 2006, and due to my families financial situation I was able to retire early. Wonderful!

This situation leaves me free to model, paint and practice my instruments,

although famous last words, I fully intend on finishing this Pocher, and maybe another one as well.

 

Wayne - Thank you for your words, I would like to lighten the Roller like a Xmas tree

(kidding),. I know that M.Cox does stunning things w/ lighting (into my build box for the future) and perhaps he might assist me in my desire.

 

Sir Codger - It is my hearts desire to have you help facilitate this build with me, it is asking a lot, but I truly admire your breathtaking work and like Wayne you are incredibly articulate.

 

Thank you all for offering advice, it seems that I might have to open another email to end this stalemate with Postimage, to load my pictures.

 

 

 

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Wayne-

Really like reading about your Merc double build, much to learn.

Thank you

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18 minutes ago, brian davey said:

 

Thank you all for offering advice, it seems that I might have to open another email to end this stalemate with Postimage, to load my pictures.

 

 

 

Postimage is now fully operational. I've been uploading to my thread since 9AM - at least 100 photos.

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I’ll try and find the company that I bought the lights from but, it should probably all be mentioned in my Mercedes thread. I started doing the light towards the end of the thread. I know that it’s a model trains accessories supplier I just can’t think of the name right now. I actually saw the receipt on Sunday when I was looking for the Plastistruct invoice to order the missing bend pieces. I’m just holding off working on the Ferrari until Friday at the moment. 
On the SMD LED’s I don’t know if Dave Cox has used them or not, possibly but we never had a conversation about that. I found some very small ones when I was looking at fiber optic to try and get light through the curved tail light stalks, try drilling a 1mm hole through a curve in a piece that was not meant to have a wire run through it. Anyway, the only way I was get lighted tail lights was using a pico SMD LED with 32 gauge wire. This is what I meant about going small when space is at a premium. I’ll try and get you the contact info later.

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15 minutes ago, larchiefeng said:

 I know that it’s a model trains accessories supplier I just can’t think of the name right now.

Walthers or Tichy????

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Sentences are not a construction - so I have another email account, imported pictures to Postimage, but I could not get them to Britmodeller.

Occurred to me that I should use my computer not IPad, is that correct?

Help if you can.

 

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1 hour ago, brian davey said:

Sentences are not a construction - so I have another email account, imported pictures to Postimage, but I could not get them to Britmodeller.

Occurred to me that I should use my computer not IPad, is that correct?

Help if you can.

 

Think you should try that.

C

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If you are trying to attach pictures from your computer pictures folder the forum will not accept it because it doesn’t know if anyone’s pc is compromised. All pictures have to be resized first, to a smaller thumbnail size like on Postimage and then the link copied from there and pasted into the url box in your post. 
I kinda forgot about that LED supplier but, I will find it today and post it. 😔

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OK, guys. I found the website for the miniature SMD LED's. Here is the link to the website https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/collections/hobby-leds .

It will probably come up as Evan Designs , Hobby LED's for model trains. They come in colors, color renditions from warm white to cool white and various sizes all the way down to pico size. For instance, I used the pico size in the front fender marker lights and tail lights on the Mercedes. The pico size is 0.8mm x 1mm in size with a total height of 0.7mm. I think the wire gauge is 30 gauge which is very thin. Anyway, check out the website, I'm sure that you will find everything that you need to light up your Rolls.

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Wayne,

Thank you for this most valuable information, it will be added to Sedanca build journal. You are a treasure trove of helpful information.

Brian

 

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