Pocher 1/8 Rolls Royce Sedanca - New Build & Member

[detailjunkie]

Give it a try Ian!

im still trying to get pictures on here.

 

[brian davey]

Greetings All,

 

I made a trip to my local Hobby Store today, picked up rods in brass, copper and aluminum in sizes 1, 1.5 & 2mm. Found several Tamiya paint cans for the engine. And, I could not find the 3 small wire that go to the generator, said Hobby Estab. had a couple of options..

1) Digitraxx makes a bag of very small wires in all sorts of colors, great I thought until I saw the price of $18 for the bag. Nope.

2) Spektrum offers a little bag of: 3” Ultra Micro Y-Harness, in the right colors for $7, much better, they went home with me.

 

QUESTION: what is Mr. Surfacer used for, I have seen it mentioned in threads, I purchased anyway.

 

QUESTION: Can an IPad be used to download pictures to this site, I’m still having trouble posting them.

 

I appreciate your comments and assistance, this Pocher is a time eater, however I do have the time to dedicate to this build and am grateful for Codger’s help.

 

Have a great evening.

BWmD

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jo NZ]

If you need thin coloured wire try stripping down a used USB cable. Phone wire (if you still have a land line) is also good. Actually it's better if your land line has been disconnected as you can rip it out of the wall....

[Codger]

Jo has given you good advice. However in this case, if you buy the MMC yellow plug wire you will need no more than that. Nothing else has wire detailing on the car you chose to model. Only if you make the functional lights will you need fine gauge wires.

Mr Surfacer is a skim-coat type thin filler for very small gaps. A more suitable filler for the large gaps encountered on Pochers is 2 part Bondo automotive putty.

I will show that and much more when I complete my old thread. I have been working steadily to do that.

Have you contacted David Cox?

Edited January 8, 2020 by Codger

[detailjunkie]

Finally got a picture to go.

[brian davey]

Detailjunkie,

Your engine looks fantastic, you are a little bit further along than I am, but, tomorrow is a new day!

 

Codger,

I have 4 packages of MMC yellow wires, and I purchased Bondo a short time ago.

My package from MMC with fenders, all the lights plus a few other things should arrive any day now.

I will not go to bed tomorrow until I have pics posted (famous last words).

 

BWmD

[detailjunkie]

Finally got a picture to go

Thank you Brian!.

[JCH]

Detailjunkie - Codger et al - Forgive the newbieness of my question but are you using the Pocher's pre-painted parts as the starting point for detailing or assembling "out-of-the-box"?  The majority of my model building has been with Tamiya, Revell, Monogram, and AMT (available in the US).  With those kits painting is as important, if not more so, than assembly.  Don't get me wrong Detailjunkie, that engine is gorgeous!  (I love the jig.)  Pocher is new to me (States remember), so I'm curious (and interested).  Also, I see that Pocher was purchased by Hornby Hobbies and re-launched in 2012.  Has there been a noticeable change in quality with that change?   LOVE that engine!  Please continue posting.

JCH

[Codger]

6 minutes ago, JCH said:

Detailjunkie - Codger et al - Forgive the newbieness of my question but are you using the Pocher's pre-painted parts as the starting point for detailing or assembling "out-of-the-box"?  The majority of my model building has been with Tamiya, Revell, Monogram, and AMT (available in the US).  With those kits painting is as important, if not more so, than assembly.  Don't get me wrong Detailjunkie, that engine is gorgeous!  (I love the jig.)  Pocher is new to me (States remember), so I'm curious (and interested).  Also, I see that Pocher was purchased by Hornby Hobbies and re-launched in 2012.  Has there been a noticeable change in quality with that change?   LOVE that engine!  Please continue posting.

JCH

There are no pre-painted parts on the classic kits. Parts are generally molded in black or gray plastic. Metal parts are generally chemically coated in black.

Hornby did not make the classics anymore and started with the Aventador I believe. Quality was better than the early cars (largely due to condition) but problematic anyway with fit and lack of part detail. These came with pre-painted bodies.

The Rolls and other classics demand painting (and upholstering) virtually everything due to the size and that further demands real bits like metal hose clamps, rubber tubes, metal pipes, carpets and fabrics. You can't just paint the seats and flock the floors.

An advanced Pocher will tax all your skills and teach you new ones.

[Codger]

TO ANY INTERESTED PARTIES:

I am in the process of posting a new thread of my original Pocher Rolls build - updated with all construction photos. I am simultaneously joining the original text with the photos on my 3rd party host. So this will take some time to complete. I begin it today and it will appear on this forum page. The moderators have asked that no comments or questions be posed in the thread. The thread is here:

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235066099-a-big-rolls-royce-version-ii-1-7-2020/

My hope is that it will begin to answer the many questions already asked here.

Codger

[brian davey]

Greetings All
 

Codger, thank you for your first installment of your build, it will be a wonderful help for me with my RR project.

It is like the Koo dvd, but expanded.

 

I was rummaging through my box of Pocher RR after market parts, and lo and behold I found a bag of very small wire that I purchased last summer, perfect for the generator. The wires I bought will go back to the Hobby Store.

 

Today arrived the bumpers that I purchased from an EBay Seller in Germany.

They are $25 plus shipping. I just checked and the seller has 5 more bumper sets available. When on the EBay site I type in ‘1/8 Pocher rolls Royce’.

 

Have a great evening,

Brian

[detailjunkie]

Finally got a picture to go.

[detailjunkie]

So glad to see your pictures coming through again Codger. 
it’s like a beautiful sunrise emerging on the horizon. Such a work of art!

Thank you all for comments on the engine.

[brian davey]

HelloI

 

I would like to thank Limeypilot, JoNz, silver912, Schwartz-Brot, PROPELLER, JCH, CrazyCrank, Harveyb258, Detailjunkie and Codger for responding to mine and other posts, offering suggestions and comments. Grateful!

 

Made a gig today out of old model wood from my Dad’s estate. He use to own an RC Model Airplane Co. until his passing.

 

CODGER - I took apart the engine to remove those pins holding the piston cover, I sanded and filed, never got it right.

Learned from you about toning down the BMF on the small straps.

I almost feel that I should wait until you load up more pictures of the engine before I continue.

Decided to use solder instead of brass for for the tubing on the oil pan, it has a much more realistic look.

 

This build is a blast, I have been building 1/359 ships: Titanic, Scharnhorst and Repulse with all sorts of PE from several makers, for these kits.

Looking forward to the 1/200 Titanic when it is released, for the mantle above the fireplace.

 

Regards,

Brian

 

 

 

[Codger]

LOL, small world - I built and flew R/C quarter scale from plans in late '70's - early '80's. Which company did your dad own?

Do not obsess about taking apart what you already built. That is the cylinder head that bolts to the crankcase halves. Just get things flush and square.

I'm loading as fast as I can and it's fatiguing after 7-8 hour days. We're talking 950 photos and 78 web pages of text...............

[detailjunkie]

I did get to see your inspirational build before it disappeared.

Really gave me a boost to challenge this kit.

[brian davey]

Codger,

My Dad owned DDS - Davey Design Systems: Gliders, Engine and Electric powered RC planes and supplies.

I have contacted David Cox, he even responded back already.

I very much appreciate your hard work resurrecting your your build, it has been helpful already!

Brian

 

[brian davey]

Codger,

Today’s information is a godsend, since I Just started the RR in late November making my progress To be at the beginning of the build.

I truly can capitalize on the path you took working your ideas into mine!

The pictures are fantastic, and reveal an incredible amount of detail.

 

I did remove some of my work, happily I might add to add your extras.

 

***Question*** - how do you make those “Endcaps” or Fasteners on the tubing located just behind the generator, I have seen them on countless finished Pochers, and I’m not sure how to fabricate them.

 

I am truly grateful for your resurrected build and pictures.

 Brian

[Codger]

37 minutes ago, brian davey said:

**Question*** - how do you make those “Endcaps” or Fasteners on the tubing located just behind the generator, I have seen them on countless finished Pochers, and I’m not sure how to fabricate them.

 

 

On the P -II Rolls engines, this was a modification to increase the oiling to the upper piston ring area to reduce friction. The block was drilled at each cylinder and a fitting called a 'banjo fitting' carries the tubing and lets oil into the block.  Many were done this way. Although this is the other side of the block, the line seen here starts at the oil pump, feeds this side of the cylinders and goes around the front of the engine to the line you reference on the generator side. Which then feeds that side of the cylinders. The dip in the line you see is to give access to the hose clamps above.

The 'tubes' are solder, the unions are aluminum tubes, the fittings on the block are plastic tubing (drilled for the solder lines) with an 0-80 hex bolt through. This is very accurate to the look of the original.

[larchiefeng]

Well it looks like you guys are off to a rousing start here and Brian you couldn’t find a more knowledgeable person on the forum for building your Rolls. I “met” Mr. C somewhere around the beginning of this build and it’s good to see it coming back. I also met and became friends with Paul Koo around then too. Paul’s DVD’s are important when first building various sections of the car. Pay close attention to all of his recommendations on modifying parts and pieces especially with regard to fitting the body. There’s a lot of things that need to be done before you go too far. As you have already experienced with having to take something apart that you have already put together; there’s a lot of that unfortunately. The other thing about Paul is that he only builds strictly from the box other than the MMC stuff. He also has done almost all of the MMC instructions for them. For everything else, Mr.C is your guy. I see that you are talking about lighting up “everything”. I have a little bit of experience there; I added SMD LEDs to my Mercedes including the dash gauges. 

[Codger]

With apologies to Brian, I may have mistook what you were asking about. I showed you the oil connections. I think now you meant the magneto advance rod (black rod) seen here above and behind the generator:

If I remember (6 years ago) the rod is .0625 brass, the stop nut is 2mm and the fitting was made from 3/32 ally tubing, crimped and drilled for 0-80 stud and nut.

The other end shows the connection to springs and levers (brass and plastic) which connect to the magneto. This is all as original.

Here's a very similar connector (just different proportion) on my race car:

 

 

[brian davey]

Mr. C.

Thank you for both explanations.

 

I am not sure how to fabricate the ‘magneto advance rod’, I might be able to guess.

 

I just ordered a piece of Curly Maple’ for the interior ‘also have Burl Walnut’, do you have any thoughts. The Veneer site has a multitude of options.

 

I have to confess this is my first ‘Car Model’ in 30-40 years, building 1/350 ships, including Titanic, Repulse and Scharnhorst complete with all the super detailing I could fit on them. I never ever have done any weathering, etc.

 

I’ll be getting in some Clevis, Hex Nuts, Rods and Nuts on Monday. I have purchased 75 aftermarket detailing parts and extra RR Pocher parts in case something goes terribly wrong.

 

Finally you wrote about taming down the BMF, it sticks out like a sore thumb, might you explain.

You might be sorry offering to help me!

 

Gratefully,

BWmD

[bzn20]

These Pochers are something else . So judging by whats been said the model is wrong dimension wise ? Are all the photos of cars , models or real , the white ish one ? I can't tell the difference . Is it possible for posters to say if it's a model or real ?

 

Great looking models and the work required on another planet .

Edited January 11, 2020 by bzn20

[Codger]

12 minutes ago, brian davey said:

Mr. C.

Thank you for both explanations.

 

I am not sure how to fabricate the ‘magneto advance rod’, I might be able to guess.

 

I just ordered a piece of Curly Maple’ for the interior ‘also have Burl Walnut’, do you have any thoughts. The Veneer site has a multitude of options.

 

I have to confess this is my first ‘Car Model’ in 30-40 years, building 1/350 ships, including Titanic, Repulse and Scharnhorst complete with all the super detailing I could fit on them. I never ever have done any weathering, etc.

 

I’ll be getting in some Clevis, Hex Nuts, Rods and Nuts on Monday. I have purchased 75 aftermarket detailing parts and extra RR Pocher parts in case something goes terribly wrong.

 

Finally you wrote about taming down the BMF, it sticks out like a sore thumb, might you explain.

You might be sorry offering to help me!

 

Gratefully,

BWmD

Whew, a lot to help with. Will try:

The rod itself is simplicity, just start with a straight solid rod. The end fittings are easily fabbed as I describe. Epoxy on the dissimilar nut and fitting end.

Your past building experience is impressive. Those ships have crazy-small PE detail parts. However, there's a unique skill set (and mind set) needed when dealing with these large scale projects.

You choice of aesthetics for the veneer should be all yours, not mine. Properly done, they all look amazing. Consult Dave Cox when you get to that stage. His interiors are the benchmark.

If I had 'gotten to' you earlier in your adventure I'd have advised you go very slowly spending on the expensive parts until certain you have all the understanding you need to accomplish so advanced a build. I know of too many classic Pochers relegated back to the attic  (or eBay) because of the realization of the complexity one could easily get into. I'm hoping you find the advice of the experts here beneficial to that end.

About BMF - remember that applied to the type of build I was doing - not museum restoration but well used but cared-for. There are many places bright chrome or polished ally are appropriate for a restored look. I'll also advise that Molotow chrome pens are excellent for small very bright areas and the refill bottle can be sprayed by airbrush.

[Codger]

29 minutes ago, bzn20 said:

These Pochers are something else . So judging by whats been said the model is wrong dimension wise ? Are all the photos of cars , models or real , the white ish one ? I can't tell the difference . Is it possible for posters to say if it's a model or real ?

 

Great looking models and the work required on another planet .

There are several glaring inaccuracies to the Pocher Rolls, Alfas and Bugattis. On the Rolls, the chief among them are the firewall, cowl, roof and body height. These substantially alter the proportions of the coachbuilders of the originals. The wheelbase and track are reasonably close to the Rolls chassis.

All my photos in my thread and this one are my build, The few reference photos are marked as such.

Thanks for your kind words.

C