Faraway Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Simple question. How do I make decals loose their slight sheen on a matt surface ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army_Air_Force Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Apply them to a gloss finish and spray matt over everything afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Would add cut the clearfilm away aswell. And use setting solution and a hairdryer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don149 Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 You could just give the decals a light brush over with satin or matt varnish , or , as I do , give an overall light spray of matt khaki to give a dusty finish . That takes care of the gloss bits , remembering to cut small masks to cover the area of the windscreen swept by the wipers . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faraway Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 1 hour ago, Don149 said: You could just give the decals a light brush over with satin or matt varnish , or , as I do , give an overall light spray of matt khaki to give a dusty finish . That takes care of the gloss bits , remembering to cut small masks to cover the area of the windscreen swept by the wipers . An interesting idea, definitely worth a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faraway Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 2 hours ago, Army_Air_Force said: Apply them to a gloss finish and spray matt over everything afterwards. The matt colours I have, have no gloss equivalent. So would this method work, by painting the area where the decal is going to be applied with gloss varnish, apply the decal and then spray with matt ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army_Air_Force Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Most modellers these days paint the model in the correct matt colours, then coat the whole model in a gloss coat to give a smooth surface for the decals ( reducing the chance of "silvering" under the clear carrier film ), then add decals, add another gloss coat, add weathering and a final matt coat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 By reflective I assume you mean silvering - when the transfer film reflects in the light. For the best results that eliminate silvering, it is advisable that decals are applied to a glossy surface. Matt surfaces are rough and can capture air bubbles between the decal film and the matt surface: It is therefore advisable that any matt surface be changed to gloss. You may well have read that Klear is the recommended medium, another suitable product is Humbrol Gloss Cote and there are others. My weapon of choice is Klear. I have got away applying a single coat, but three coats are normally recommended to ensure that glossy surface. It may be applied with an airbrush, but I find a good, soft, wide brush adequate. Each coat of Klear takes approximately twenty minutes to dry, so progress on your build will not be delayed too long. Remember to rinse the bristles of the brush in warm, soapy water after applying the Klear. What tools and equipment? Scissors – you’ll need to cut the individual decals from the backing paper. Dish – most manufacturers recommend warm water to soak the decal in and loosen it from the backing paper. I’m not sure why; although I always start with warm water, after ten minutes or so in the dish, the water is less than tepid and yet the decals still slip off (eventually). Tweezers – to extract the decal (on the backing paper) from the dish and transfer it to the model. Paint brush – to apply Micro Set, position the decal on the model, and apply Micro Sol. Micro Set aids the adherence of the decal to the model and Micro Sol helps the decal conform to any curvature of the surface. Referring to the instruction sheet, identify the decal and the position on the model where it requires placing. Cut the decal from the sheet and place it in the dish of water. Apply Micro Set to the area on the model where the decal will be positioned. Check the decal for movement on the backing sheet: The backing paper should be thoroughly soaked (no dry spots), be careful not to damage the decal film, use a soft brush to test whether the decal is slippery on the backing sheet. You will find that the decals from some manufacturers loosen from the backing paper much quicker than those of other manufacturers. Indeed, some take an age to loosen; be patient, it will come off in the end! Extract the backing sheet from the dish with the tweezers. Use the brush to slide the decal from the backing sheet onto the model, and then use the bush to position the decal correctly. Repeat as necessary. When the decals have been positioned for approximately fifteen minutes, Micro Sol can be brushed over the decal(s) to ensure they conform to any curves (complex or simple) on the model. When thoroughly dry the decals should be sealed under a varnish of your choice (Matt, Satin or Gloss). This will protect the decals from damage. Its as simple as that. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/20/t/86551.aspx http://www.davesmodelworkshop.com/2017/07/decals-101-how-to-avoid-silvering-and.html https://dnmodels.com/all/decal_issues_silvering/ http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/287706-decal-silvering/ https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/37812 https://ww2aircraft.net/forum/threads/silvering.49624/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faraway Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 Pointlessly repeated pictures removed An excellent guide to decals, time to go shopping, where do you get Klear ?Very many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 33 minutes ago, Faraway said: An excellent guide to decals, time to go shopping, where do you get Klear ?Very many thanks. Klear is no more I'm afraid but there are several similar substances out there , subject to a lot of discussion here and elsewhere although the most recent mentioned on Britmodeller is Astonish Wood Floor Polish stocked by some branches of Home Bargains apparently but not one that I have been able to find yet although on mentioning my quest to a relative as I am half-way through my last bottle they suggested The Range as a possible stockist (she called to let me know as I was mid-way home from the nearest one in a hundred miles having just been shopping in two other shops in the same retail park). One comment I could add to Ratch's excellent tutorial is that rather than a proprietary varnish as such I use a mix of Klear (or presumably its substitutes) and Tamiya X-21 Flat Base to get whatever Satin/Matt final coat is required , touch dry in minutes but as I am a dedicated brush painter no idea if is suitable for spraying. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Any gloss finish will do. Klear/Future was simply most affordable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsman Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Klear (UK) or Future (US) was a floor "polish" and so needed to be cheap and come in large bottles. But its primary use was for types of flooring that no-one much uses these days like lino and hard vinyl tiles. And you had to keep on using it as it wore off, which was a pain in the bottom. Hence why you can't get it in the UK any more: no demand. The Russian model paint company Xoma still markets something they call Johnson's Klear in small bottles, and I believe it is still available in the USA. But yes, essentially any clear gloss varnish will do as a decal base coat. The trick is to find one that goes on thinly so that the finished model doesn't look varnished and detail like panel lines get filled in. You will need at least one coat of matt varnish over the top and you will need panel lines etc for weathering. I still like the old standard Microscale varnishes, although there is a lot more choice these days. You do have other options for some military markings. Dry transfers are available from the likes of Archer and a variety of stencils are available for painting markings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg B Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Moved to correct forum area as well as tidying up pointlessly repeated photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 On 01/01/2020 at 22:43, Des said: rather than a proprietary varnish as such I use a mix of Klear (or presumably its substitutes) and Tamiya X-21 Flat Base to get whatever Satin/Matt final coat is required , touch dry in minutes but as I am a dedicated brush painter no idea if is suitable for spraying. I mix Klear (I still have a stockpile) with Vallejo Matt for the same purposes, and yes it sprays well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iainpeden Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 On 1/3/2020 at 1:55 PM, Ratch said: I mix Klear (I still have a stockpile) with Vallejo Matt for the same purposes, and yes it sprays well Ratch, I am finding that my Klear is a bit less liquid than before; have you any advice on what to thin it with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 I've never thinned Klear - I'd try water, on a test piece Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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