Pete in Lincs Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 Now that is a shame. The engine and interior looked great, as did the paint. You could always put it in the display cabinet facing the wrong way? Nothing wrong with the back end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted February 8, 2020 Author Share Posted February 8, 2020 I was kinda hoping to present it to my boss so it will probably end its days in the box(cant bin it it was a present) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Shame! it was starting to look real nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooper645 Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Could you not simply remove the upper portion of the wheel arches with a dremel to get the buggers up in there? They’re unlikely to be seen when the bottom of the wheel arch is in the correct position and the wheels are fitted surely. its worth a try I would think to get a great looking model finished, if all it is otherwise going to do is occupy space in the stash where a future model could sit? just my 2 pence on a possible solution. coops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR2Don Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 I had the same basic problem with my 1/12 910. Luckily the "chassis" moulding was quite thick, so I managed to scrape away enough material to get inner and outer to match. So, how thick is the moulding of your inner arches? Would that work, or Dremmel it as Cooper645 suggests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 In order to close the bonnet properly, you have to remove the tabs (U-shaped with a hole near the round part of the U) that are on the left and right side of the bonnet opening. But I agree with Cooper645, remove the body from the chassis and cut away the parts that prevent the body from fitting over the chassis. I recommend sending an E-mail to Revell department X, with the photos of the warped body. They might still replace your faulty kit with a new one. It's worth a try. Sincerely Pascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbostream Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 I understand your frustration. I hope my kit doesn't have these issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 It was the locating tabs at the front which were the problem I cut both the female and Male parts off of the front 4 and its sorted the problem, the problem, with the bonnet I added some plasticard under the hinges which lowered the bonnet so it's now a flush fit. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Great save! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted February 20, 2020 Author Share Posted February 20, 2020 Hi all well theres no detail underneath, no brake lines, no shock absorbers, no back panel to the brakes, no calipers on the front after a lot of deliberation (is this kit really worth all this effort) I've decided it is, so here are pics of what the kit supplies. Hopefully I can improve on this. Unfortunately the car i was basing this on is no longer in the workshop but we have a coupe in and our engineers assure me the brakes and suspension are the same so more measures and research (I've bought a vernier for the measurements) I must say I'm very disappointed with this kit even without the moulding problems they really dropped the ball with this kit all the other German produced kits I've done were amazing (I would have put them up with Tamiya) this kit I would say is below Frog standards, which is a shame, I hope this is not a glimps of things to come, considering this is a 2018 new moulding. I will certainly think very carefully before buying another revell kit and I certainly wont be recommending revell kits in the near future. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted February 27, 2020 Author Share Posted February 27, 2020 Well I've added some more to the body (will sort the missing chassis detail at another time) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 Looking good. I know you put a lot of effort into those seats (and I can't deny that they look excellent), however it's that hood cover which stand out to me as being superb. Well done with the whole thing, especially given all the challenges it presented to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 Hi all I've done what I can to the rear suspension, cant do much with the front as the way they've moulded it I would have to cut it all out and start again (its moulded all on one plane when in fact it is not) also the tie rod is moulded where the front calipers should be, I cant move it to the back as I would have to cut a channel in the back wall for it to run in. On the rear brakes there is no backing plate for the handbrake cable or hydraulic pipes to go. It just so happens a tap washer fits the bill perfectly Drilled the holes for the cables and pipes to go through. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 I like the detailing you're adding. First time I've seen a tap washer used on a kit too! I seem to have missed the interior pictures before. Like the seats, but that hood cover is really good. Keep at it, it'll be a silk purse before very long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 Thanks mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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