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Last update focused on the guns.

 

Here they are all together in brass (plus one of the Vicker's turrets) ready for priming

 

DSCN1875

 

And after priming

 

DSCN1876

 

And lastly, here they are with the detail picked out and the final white 

 

DSCN1878

 

Note I've added the waist straps to the Oerlikons in copper foil and the shell case bag on the extreme right hand one (paper mache), the second bag is still drying.  The metallic paint still needs polishing.... I'm pleased wiht the 2pdr ammo trays, not so easy to see here but each shell is picked out, gun shield needs re-fitting to the 3-inch and a little light tidy up but these are done now bar some black and oil wash.

 

Steve

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1 hour ago, Jerry L said:

what primer and paint manufacturer are you using?

Thanks Jerry, I use Halfords car primer, white or grey, and Humbrol paints, well thinned.  All enamel so far on this model.  Some colours I've mixed myself (the white and the blue grey deck) as I couldn't find a colour I liked in their range

 

Cheers

 

Steve

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10 hours ago, Jerry L said:

trying to gather as much info on the mixing of paints, Humbrol mainly, by others before I start up on the Titanic in a few months

Please ask others, painting is the thing I am worst at!  My builds take so long, I don't get enough practice and I can't be bothered to clean airbrushes.  I know I can do much better in this area.  Good luck with the Titanic, post it here so we can watch

7 hours ago, steve5 said:

just caught up with build will have to get a long glass of something nice and go over this build slowly .

Thanks, I just do my own thing the best I can, enjoy the wine 🥂

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8 hours ago, Steve D said:

... I can't be bothered to clean airbrushes. ...

Me too!  I changed from enamels to primarily acrylics a few years ago for airbrushing.  Much easier airbrush clean-ups using water & Windex window cleaner. I still use enamels for brush painting small items & touch ups, though.

 

John

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OK, so one more gun post. 

 

She also carried 4 twin .303 Vicker's mounts, two on swivel mountings on the bridge wings and two firing over the torpedo tubes.  For the Fairmile build I've etched these guns and luckily, had a spare etch sheet with four spare guns

 

Here are the fire two soldered up and ready to paint.  The gun barrel is 0.8mm tube, super fine .  The mount is in one piece which folds in half at each side and then folds up to the middle.  It's one of more successful designs and only take 20 minutes or so of fiddling and dropping tiny pieces and searching on my knees for them etc etc.... to make

 

DSCN1879

 

The fold creates that strap round the barrel, note the barrel ends are cut at 45 deg sloping forward as you would expect...

 

Here they are painted on the two column mounts for the torpedo tube area.  The columns are too tall, I know.  First the gunner stands on the engine room roof, while the gun is mounted to the deck and secondly, I got the length wrong!  Still you can never lengthen brass tube, only shorten it and hope you don't over cut...

 

Here they are fitted and the right length, 3 inch gun and shield in the background and Orelikon with canvas shell bag close to the right colour, dirt will sort that out later

 

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And lastly the bridge wing mounts with swivel of course, unpainted in this shot

 

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Everything is still removable in case you wonder why some things are in one shot and not another, I've got to store all these pieces somewhere, it may as well be the deck

 

And that is absolutely my last gun post.  I count 17 barrels in mounts 9se excluding small arms) on this boat which had a compliment of 24!  They must all have been gunners

 

Steve 

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I know I'm nearing the end when I start making shackles.  Over the years, I've made dozens of these little things.  This time I'm using 1.2 mm OD brass tube and 0.7 mm wire.  The tube has a 0.65 mm ID which is perfect for 16BA bolts, they look better than wire.

 

The shackle body is bent and then silver soldered to the tube.  Then using a fine cutting disk, the end is trimmed and the opening cut away, then its parted off from the tube length, simple!  Assuming you don't drop it, ping it with tweezers, or watch it fly off when using a fine wire brush in the drill to clean it...

 

Here are two tidying up the ends of the wore rope reels

 

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And painted, ready to run out

 

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So, after 9 months of this build and staring at my 3 drawings on the wall of the workshop for ever, I just noticed a note on one that I'd not seen before.  To be fair, its on the bottom edge and sort of folded over, but even so, I should have seen it staring me in the face. 

 

The foredeck around the chart house and 2 pdr power mounting, breakwater area has a clear double line around it running on the inside of the stanchion line.  I'd thought this may be the outline of a coir mat as you see on the forcsle of some MGB pictures and was considering adding this.  The note that is folded over on the drawing says quite clearly, "This area covered with Semtex"...  So, logically, this would be a smooth surface bounded by a narrow raised edge.  It might have been good to see this earlier, but I can sort it as everything is removable.

 

Rework coming....

 

Out of interest, does anyone know if this would be totally smooth or have some surface finish I can attempt?

 

Steve

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After an hour of searching, I'm becoming increasingly convinced that the Semtex deck area should be a flat green (Vallejo 968 has been suggested by one reference) for mid to late war.  I'm certainly not going to go down the early war Ivory route..... 

 

Nonetheless, this is going to look quite interesting, if not startling, against my MS2 painted steel deck, certainly before weathering.  Before I make a total hash of this, can anybody offer some advice, it would be really appreciated! I'm assuming they didn't over-paint the Semtex which in wartime would be seen as a waste

 

Thanks

 

Steve

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