rob Lyttle Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 Hi, motor enthusiasts. And greetings from the BM aircraft section. I come in peace!! 😎 Well, I have done a few cars, but I have picked up this at a bit of a bargain price. It was really the 300SLR that caught my eye, but they both look very interesting for future builds. And I'm mightily inspired by the car builds that I see on here. My immediate question is this.... Looking through the instructions for the SLS, I got to the tyres /wheels section and found this.... For all 4 wheels it clearly shows the disc brakes being sandwiched between the inner and outer parts of the wheel. It's inside the structure of the wheel! Is this right? Or is it a Revell shortcut? Did Mercedes come up with a revolutionary way to get hydraulic fluid through the stub axle and into the brake caliper?? (it wouldn't surprise me if they did, but somehow it seems unlikely to the likes of me .... 🤔) Anyone built one of these? I can't find a WIP with the search box. Or anyone built the 300SLR? I'd be pleased to have a read through any build logs. Links?? Thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 I think Revell are doing a build cheat Instead of having a disc brake unit, two wheel parts with a centre for the stub axle it looks like the disc unit is the stub axle mounting so you can have rotating wheels 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 It’s definitely a cheat... I don’t know why, when other kit makers have mastered putting the wheel outboard of the brake... mind you, I don’t recall a kit I’ve built where the disc actually rotates with the wheel, through the calliper, so everyone cheats somehow. I just painted the inner spokes matt black, and you really don’t notice them. The 300SLR is a really cool kit, with a few fit issues around the doors. The chassis and engine are great. The pictures have all vanished, but my build thread has lengthy notes here: I don’t have time to repost them until the weekend, but maybe the text will help... best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 Great stuff @cmatthewbacon thanks for that link. I'll have a proper read through later. And if you do get the photos up at some point that'd be seriously beneficial!! Absolutely NO rush on that from my point of view. I've got plenty on the bench right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 25 minutes ago, Black Knight said: I think Revell are doing a build cheat You gotta watch these guys like a hawk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 On 12/16/2019 at 11:10 PM, cmatthewbacon said: I don’t recall a kit I’ve built where the disc actually rotates with the wheel, through the calliper, Hi Matthew, I know of one kit (only so far) where the disc rotates through the calliper. It's quite a humble kit actually. It's the Fujimi FIAT 500. Bit of a fiddle though... Cheers, Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlEmu Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 On 18/12/2019 at 13:20, Alan R said: Hi Matthew, I know of one kit (only so far) where the disc rotates through the calliper. It's quite a humble kit actually. It's the Fujimi FIAT 500. Bit of a fiddle though... Cheers, Alan. Also all of Aoshima's Nissan R35 GT-R have it. Although spring suspension is a little toyish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR2Don Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 (edited) There's always a bit of "build practicality". My 1/12 Lola T70 has rotating disks, but the fronts only have half a caliper, almost certainly because it would be difficult to get both halves built with the disk between. Haven't got to the back yet, but the instructions seem to show both halves of the caliper with the disk in between, and, of course, on the Lola they're inboard, so more obvious. Edited December 19, 2019 by MR2Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 The other thing that bugs me is wheel-retaining wingnuts. They're always stationary, glued to the stub axles. I mean I'm not one for vrooming a model around the floor.... 😁 And I don't know what the answer is for kit makers without getting into threaded metal parts. But it just seems wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 A method I've not used for years Careful modelling required 1. you need a two part wheel rim with a centre mounting tube 2. cut that centre tube short by about 1mm or less. It doesn't matter if the tube joins in the middle of the wheel 3. get an aluminium pop rivet, remove steel shaft. You are left with a T shaped tube 4. fit that T tube into the centre hole of the wheel mounting tube, with the T flange towards the outside of the wheel. Make sure the aluminium rivet is a slightly loose fit in that centre tube, but not too loose. Do NOT glue the rivet into the wheel centre tube hole. 5. Assemble the wheel and fit to the stub axle gluing, super glue works here, the aluminium rivet to the stub axle - glue only the rivet 6. you'll now see that the rivet holds the wheel on but the wheel can rotate. The T flange holds the wheel to the rivet 7. glue the spinner nut to the wheel 8. A rotating wheel with the spinner nut correctly attached to the wheel Some modelling work is required in getting that pop rivet to fit neatly into the wheel and then attach it in the right place on the stub axle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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