Jump to content

Eduard Fokker DrI in 1/48 (Finished)


Recommended Posts

Modelling seems to be quite a nostalgic thing, and I might be one of the worst in this. I've grown an habit out of building models, that I did as a small kid, like the Swordfish recently, and some others. But I want to stick only to the topic and model, not the specific kit - so I secretely dream of Special Hobby doing a Westland Scout, but shying away from the old, yet original Airfix kit from the 70ies, which I remember having build not only once, in it's blister bag. I  loved it. 

 

And here's another of these all time favourites, which I build on sunday mornings with my dad, before having lunch with family and therefore moving the kit aside for our traditional Wiener Schnitzel - but still having an eye on the kit while eating - I'm talking about the bagged Fokker Dreidecker from Airfix, in 72 scale, molded in red, when detailled accuracy was only secondary to easy fun.

 

So, it struck me some weeks ago and finally bought Eduards Dr.1 in 48, the Profipack to have all the niceties coming along. I'm a bit in an undecided state of mind; I definitely want to do a good looking model,, but on the other hand I feel like building one, that looks like the old Airfix model, with all of it's historic inaccuracies.

So, what I found on some of builds of this specific model, the final result looking a bit, say, "blunt". Not that it lacks any detail, but it just, I don't now, as if the layer of colour on it is a bit to thick. Do you know what i mean?

Might be just like that, too many layers of colour, or might also be the red to bright and shiny, looking like a Ferrari and not like a weathered WWI bird. 

 

So, what IS decided so far ist the colour, being a red - I used Revell Karminrot matte - added a drop of black, macking it slightly brownish and darker. Also I think of doing some chipping on the cowling, which I painted in Alclad steel yet.  Also, I think of painting it semi-matte or even glossy, to make a difference in painted linen and metal.

 

First idea from the workbench:

 

37433674qa.jpg

 

But, then, should I go for one of the historic correct versions, then it will be the all red earlier bird? Or should I take the freedom to mix, my idea is the white tail of the later, but still wearing the croix pattée, instead of the latter (but correct) solid cross. I even think of the white square around, just as depicted on the cover art of the Airfix model.

 

Until continuing, what do you think? Would you opt for accuracy, or allow some freedom for the sake of nostalgia?

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I'm a bit of a detail freak, but I think the best approach for all modellers is probably to make each project an enjoyable build that produces what's a pleasing outcome for each modeller. It's meant to be fun after all. I'm in the middle of building Eduard's Dreidecker kit aimed at the early versions of this iconic a/c, specifically F1 102/18 and F1 103/17, which were combat evaluated by Mafred von Richthofen and Werner Voss. The Eduard kit for this probably differs only in minor detail from the one you're building, as these earlier 2 did by comparison with the production models that followed. This comment is probably already too detailed for what you're aiming at, but leads to my main point which is that, even in 1/48 scale, a lot of the detail that the  Eduard kits offer (relative to the old Airfix 1/72 kits) becomes virtually invisible once you've closed up the fuselage. With the Dr. 1 being uncluttered by the rigging necessary with the biplanes of the time, it's mainly through the surface finish  (camo) that one can judge the quality and therefore the pleasing appearance of the finished product. With the Triplane, there are many different varietiies of finish, many very colourful following to the Jasta colours and individual pilot's tastes, with either Iron or Balkenkreuz markings. Whatever the decals included in the Eduard Profipack edition, there are many references both on the internet and in book form (Paul Leaman's is one of the best books IMO), and the internet offers many after market decal options so, you should be ale to find something that fits your ideas without becoming too bogged down with the detail that I enjoy. Good luck with the build. I'm sure it'll turn out to be a good model. Paul

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a bit the dilemma I'm on, and on which I can't decide - historical accuracy vs. some nostalgic remembrance of childhood sundays, sitting on the kitchen table while dad was cooking, and building the Airfix DR1. Which I definitely don't want to go though again, when I google that specific model, drifting away into some kind of What-If. Well, simply I havent decided yet, at this point the all red early 425/17 looks good. Bit of both.

 

The 102/17 was the one with the curved edge? This would be a interesting build as well, and I'm pretty sure that I will make another, more exotic finish as well, as this Eduard kit really starts of well - will post some more pictures a bit later. Question right now is, should I upgrade the intreiour with the rudder rigging, maybe with some turnbuckles, or should I stay on the lazy route?

Hmmm...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Chief Cohiba changed the title to The Snoopy Project, Pt.1... ( Fokker DrI in 1/48)

Here for some detail pictures of the interiour bits...

 

37514142yx.jpg

 

Body halves:

 

37514121hg.jpg

 

Here's the seat (and for me this is a first, for I managed for the first time to let this PE-belts look ok-ish)

 

37514144tw.jpg

 

Here's the Floorboard with compass, rudder pedals and steering column attached. My macro lens didn't support mw well on this, so please forgive the poor quality. Only non-OOB I've mounted so far were the additional turnbuckles on the rudder column, which can slightly be seen)


37514309rp.jpg

 

Next part then will be closing the halves. Dryfitting looks promising, but let's see...

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a few last impressions before closing the body. Early dry fit looked a bit better than with all the bits mounted, but I hope for not any mayor troubles, or at least nothing our good friend C'n'A can't help about...

 

37518051gd.jpg

 

37518052xl.jpg

 

37518053xi.jpg

 

May I lead your eyes to one little part that not comes with the (quite stuffed) kit - it's the little silvery box under the seat:

 

37518101cs.png

 

It is a little magnet that I glue in a midsection of most of my WWI kits - I found it an easy way of mounting the model on a stand, or just fixing it for transport, e.g. It holds the weight of the kit quite easily:

 

37518113ny.jpg
 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After the christmas nostalgia has passed (at least most of it), I decided to go far a real plane, so this will be the early all red Richthofen Plane, 425/17,

 

What I did the last days was mainly smaller bits, like opening the eyelets for the rigging on the tail:

 

Before:

 

37535302ii.jpg

 

After:

 

37535304vz.jpg

 

This will definitely be lesser rigging as with many other biplanes, but this tail rigging might be quite a bit fiddly.

 

Yesterday I finally did manage to close the body (which required some considerable force), and cleaned the joint between the two halves (which also took me a second round).

 

Also I did some considerable amount of grinding and polishing (of which I took no pictures) and painted it in the custom red, I mixed:

 

37534699vn.jpg

 

The red is Revell Carmine Red #36, which is matte, with about 5% black in it, wich makes a weathered brick red. I think this colour is more suitable than the usual bright red seen on most of the Richthofen Fokkers, and which just don't seem right to me, at least given the idea that this plane was really used in combat.

 

For the Cowling and the upper fuselage, which is supposed to be made of metal, I used a different paint, a mix of Revell Fiery Red (who invents those names?) #31, gloss, which is a bit brighter (and glossy, of course), which I also darkened with black as well, to have approx. the same shade as the body.

 

37534776ki.jpg

 

It still is a bit brighter than the body, but with the chipping and the washing (still to come, of course, after a layer of Alclad), this might be be just the right effect I wanted to achieve. Doesn't look to bad in dryfitting, at least to my eyes...

 

37535273qy.jpg

 

Next I think I will complete the body, with the eyelets finished (the usual dark grey base with steel/silver drybrushing) and probably even finish with decals, before mounting the wings. Will see...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Chief Cohiba changed the title to Eduard Fokker DrI in 1/48

Had a little break on this due to other projects, the usual amount of work, and simple amounts of laziness, but got a bit further the last few days. I managed to mount the wings together, put the decals on and gave it a clear coat with Alclad:

 

37935971nc.jpg

 

37935949iy.jpg

 

and started the rigging for the upper wings

 

37935973ge.jpg

 

as well as on the tail (not glued in yet):

 

37935982oo.jpg

 

To be honest, I've underestimated the rigging on this, as the tail might get a bit tricky. Also, while the quality on this kit is very high, I've noticed a mistake in the (pretty coarse) rigging diagram. It shows only two crossed wires running between the front struts from middle to upper wings, while the pictures on the WNW show also some straight wires running after the struts.

 

So much for the lazy build that I've planned... 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I completely can comprehend your dilemma Nostalghia vs. Accuracy/High detailed model and would say the good news are that nowadays we modellers have the choice to take a trip down memory lane building a vintage model painted with these familiar smelling enamel paints or try to finish a modern tooled kit with some aftermarket stuff if your more in an ambitious mood.

Your little Dr.1 looks great so far, concerning the Red colour-there is a Richthofen Red from Mr. Paint (MRP-250) which looks pretty promising to my eyes.

Btw it's good to see that you have a profound historical book reference on hand...... 😄

 

Hans 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/24/2020 at 2:53 PM, supersonic said:

I completely can comprehend your dilemma Nostalghia vs. Accuracy/High detailed model and would say the good news are that nowadays we modellers have the choice to take a trip down memory lane building a vintage model painted with these familiar smelling enamel paints or try to finish a modern tooled kit with some aftermarket stuff if your more in an ambitious mood.

 

I've found that I'm pretty prone to builds of specific models I've did in my youth, but not so much wanting to build the old kits again. Like; I wouldn't do an Airfix DR1 once again, but did this Eduard one (which really is very nice), thinking of sundays spending doing the Airfix one. Also, I just bought the Tarangus/Special Hobby Viggen, including paint masks, Resin cockpit and stuff, but wouldn't want to build the Matchbox Kit, which I did when I was a small kid, once more.

This said, of course I do have the old 1/32 Lysander in my stash, but somewhat shy away starting it. But if I do, I surely would go looking for an Resin Bristol Engine. Or, I have the Revell repackaging of the old Matchbox PK 401 He-115, and think of painting it in the Matchbox colours of the kit, maybe over a Alclad metallic surface, with some chipping and aging. Might look interesting, but another one most likely I'll never do! 😄

Btw; it seems I was kind of a Matchbox boy! 😉

Thanks for your hint towards the MRP colours, I've never tried these but heard great things about them. But the Krapplack looks good, that's true. The Revells I used where just on hand, and as I wanted to mix glossy colours for metal objects, and matte for fabric, (and had these at home), I used them. The MRP 250 looks pretty the same, maybe a bit lighter, which (the dark appearance) I did on purpose, more like staining. So, it was ok, I guess.

Right now I'm in the decision making process of building the guns provided with the kit or once more going for Gaspatch. Maybe I'll find some time to go on with this very hard decision when I'm back home at my workbench this evening.

Ok, on with work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Done with the Spandaus, and while this has been quite an interesting little build, I have only very limited pictures on the various steps. It was bit of a nightly build, and there was no useful lighting available, at least none that wouldn't wake up my wife and/or the cats. 

 

37975070jo.jpg

 

37975081bi.jpg

 

This was my first attempt with PE-cooling jackets and breech, but it was surprisingly easy and the result is ok enough for such a small piece. It definitely could turn out better with a bit more practive, but hey, I*m a lazy guy so I'm ok. And, it proves that the Eduard Profi Packs can be done Out of the box.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After the nocturnal adventures with the guns I continued a bit on the tail rigging, which usually is the part where I warn my wife that some strong language might be expected from my little cave, and this also occured today. But after some missattempts with putting the wire (I use EZ fine in 1/48) in the tiny holes, I opened them up a bit with the same drillbit I initially used and just removed the small excess of paint, that has closed the holes and it worked fine.

 

Btw. here's the drill I use, I once bought it for some 10,- € on a trade fair, and it's proven indispensable since then. No more fussing around with fixed chucks, that doesn't fit to the drill bits, just tighten it and drill. Like the big ones...

 

37975312lb.jpg

Ok, so here's how it looks with the threads attached:

37975365jt.jpg

 

The one I'm afraid of will be the upper wire, which leads through the tail wing, I haven't really figured out how I'll finally do this. We'll see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lovely work I have one of these in the stash ( let’s face it I probably have one if every fighter aircraft made between 1914 and 1930 in my stash :) ) I was going to do it  as Josef Jacobs all black scheme.

I was watching WWI apocalypse at the weekend and they actually had video footage of Richthofen in the triplane, of course it was false coloured red but you could see streaking kin places on the fuselage.

 

The straight wires would probably be the control cables, a lot if rigging diagrams omit these as I suppose technically they’re not rigging :) 

Edited by Marklo
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, Marklo said:

lovely work I have one of these in the stash ( let’s face it I probably have one if every fighter aircraft made between 1914 and 1930 in my stash :) ) I was going to do it  as Josef Jacobs all black scheme.

I was watching WWI apocalypse at the weekend and they actually had video footage of Richthofen in the triplane, of course it was false coloured red but you could see streaking kin places on the fuselage.

 

The straight wires would probably be the control cables, a lot if rigging diagrams omit these as I suppose technically they’re not rigging :) 

Funny, I bought the Eduard Nieuport 17 yesterday, as I plan to build the Nungesser bird, and came across the Nugesser and Jacobs story, looking for the decals right now. 😉 And yes, I can see the point with hording those kits, these addictively collectible...

Must see the WWI apocalypse series, 've seen it is available on youtube. Missed it on Prime, which is a bit more convenient to watch. One of these series I watch when my wife is sleeping.

I'm pretty sure the cables at the back are control cables, the upper two are controlling the tail flaps (the uppermost running through the tail wing), and the one at the bottom controlling the rudder. The middle and bottom one look quite straight forward, but the one at the top causing me a bit of headache. This is one of these moments when you definitely could need a third arm, one holding the plane, one for the tweezers, one for glue, and a fourth and fifth just in case, I'm sure I could use them...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm finished with the knitting at the tail! Was a bit fiddly but what does one expect in this scale on something, that has half the weight in real life than a Volkswagen Polo. 

 

37998686si.jpg

 

37998687rz.jpg

 

Also, did some work on the upper wing


37998690kx.jpg

And did the turnbuckles for the upper wing rigging (thanks to Gaspatch, once more)

 

37998719wy.jpg

Despite I wanted to build this OOB, as well as not to do turnbuckles in 1/48. I just can't see this stuff any more. Phhheeew...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And here's for some minor steps more. I've managed to get the guns installed and also the screen.

 

38022968yd.jpg

 

https://up.picr.de/38022969gn.jpg[/img

 

I wasn't quite sure if the screen is correct, as I've noticed a lot of the earlier Fokkers didn't have, at least what I've seen on the WNW pictures. Next step is to mount the engine, I'll decide if I keep it before mounting the upper wing.

 

What's your oppinion, dear reader, on this?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks! This is really a fun little build (although I'm quite lazy on it, to be honest).

I remember building the Revell Fokker when I was a kid, and it had, well, I'd say, "challenges". A lot. But isn't this what we just sometimes need?

 

An alternative if you'd want to go for something bigger, yet less challenging (or maybe even more challenging, but intentionally, not based on the nature of a 60 years old kit) might be the soon to be released WNW DR1. Sure, it's much more expensive, but my guess is it will be worth the extra money...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/9/2020 at 2:20 PM, Chief Cohiba said:

Many thanks! This is really a fun little build (although I'm quite lazy on it, to be honest).

Did I really say that? "Fun little build"? Seriously? Pheeew...

 

As you might have noticed, I've struggled a bit in mounting the upper wing, but to be honest not on the design of the model, but on the procedure I've choosen.

 

I tried to first install the inner struts with CA, fix the rigging wire and then mount the upper wing, trying to gently push them in position. And that's where the things went wrong, it all ended with parts hanging from the kit in tiny wires, wings on the floor and a modeller on the edge of a nervous breakdown.

 

But fixing was easy, when I did the other way round; installing the upper wing (this will be pretty solid, as the outer struts fit nicely into the moulds) and then mount the inner struts - this was even easier, as the rigging wires were still attached to them. So, installing them first might help.

 

What I totally failed was to thread the rigging wires through the small holes of the turnbuckles (sorry, my dear wife for all the swearing) so finally just glued them on without going through the holes. Did I mention proper light and a very good set of tweezers is key. So, here is how it turns out, given this mess the quality of the kit must be good (while this modellers skills obviously aren't...)


38052566po.jpg

 

38052567vd.jpg

 

38052568sp.jpg

 

38052569ln.jpg

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And, another one I thought would be a bit easier, is mounting the landing gear.

 

Not only is this always a fiddly job, but here's not only that one has to cut the struts about 1,5mm, which I might not be 100%precise upon, so that the wing is a bit steep. Also, mounting it then is a matter of CA'n'tweezers acrobatics - but finally settled.

 

38075011xc.jpg

 

Also, the test if these can handle it's own weight, was passed successfully. Wheels are still covered with masks and only dryfitted, but her we go:

 

38075015ho.jpg

 

Still sits a bit high, but this is ok for me...

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the propeller I wanted to create a laminated look, and while I know there are tools for that, I didn't want to buy (and, even more so, wait for) one. So I went with some styrene and tried to make one my one. It took me a few attempts, and also the final result had some issues, but here's what I tinkered together: 

 

38088722mc.jpg

 

It's simply a few bits of styrene strips of Evergreen 4.0mm wide and ,4mm thick glued together, with distance pieces on each side. I did two versions, one with one strip-one empty pattern, and one with two strips-two empty pattern. That's what you can see above.

 

Sadly, both were not ideal, so I made a third one, with a  two strips-one empty pattern, which worked, not perfect, but it looked like this:

 

38088774jk.jpg

 

This already after the test drive with the other propeller provided with the kit, and here's the outcome:

 

38088776iy.jpg

 

The pattern is, well, just a first attempt and this definitely needs a lot of practise, but it's looking ok. As the stripes are only for the laminate look, I wanted to see how Uschi van der Rostens wood grain decals work, well, for the wood grain, and this is also attached. 

Here's look how the correct propeller looks without the decals:

 

38088793cj.jpg

Right now the decals on the final propeller are setting, let's see of how much of setting solution I need to throw at this, but these are very thin, so my guess not to much. Wish me luck! 😉

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And here's, well, sort of a few last impressions from the workbench for this.  As I've finished the propeller, did very little washing and mounted the last few bitsies, here's it.

 

38094360rl.jpg

 

38094362vd.jpg

 

I'll call it finished, more or less.

 

After all I'm quite fine with the outcome, the challenges in the last steps weren't overly bumpy, and I'm happy with the colour, being not too bright, and the very slight ageing. Also I'm happy with the first try on the laminated look. 

 

And, maybe most of all, this wasn't an overly long project, a reason why I love these WW1 fishnets in quarterscale.

Will do a RFI the next days...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...