Andy350 Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 I've not really started yet, I'm having a look at how complex this will be and wanted to ask a very early question regarding the track build. The tracks seem to be live once fitted, so no glue is required but, they use locating pins, but these pins seems to eager to full out. Can I use some thin cement at the top to keep them in? What do others do? They will also require some clean up, with 91 each side will take time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelD Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 Glue on end should be fine. Don't use too much though as it could wick down the pin and glue the links together. Good luck with the clean up. It looks like 3 stubs on each link. Nigel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 25 minutes ago, NigelD said: Glue on end should be fine. Don't use too much though as it could wick down the pin and glue the links together. Good luck with the clean up. It looks like 3 stubs on each link. Nigel Thanks Nigel, I might as well continue with the tracks for now, wasn't supposed to start this until after Christmas, but it will take me a very long time anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 Hi Andy, I see you've decided to go for T55. I have never done a Miniart kit (I have in the stash some, but I don't know when I will be able to do a good job ...), but they seem to waste quality and detail on all four sides ... lol. Although nothing is free, I imagine that the kit will be somewhat overwhelming, with so many pieces and PEs (I imagine). If I can be of help, ask me, although surely there are more experienced mates than me. The topic of links can be very tedious and tiring, but it is worth the effort. I do not know how they will be in the sprues, but maybe if you choose the cutting tool well, you will save a lot of work after sanding, as there would be less residue in the piece ... I would like to see how it develops, you take your time, because it is certainly a great model / kit. Cheers Andy 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsman Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 (edited) I believe these are designed to be assembled dry with the pins being a friction fit. If you leave them dry then yes you risk some dropping out. But if you glue the pins and then break any you have a problem. Try a couple. If they work as a push-fit then leave them like that. Otherwise, a tiny touch of Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting on the tip as noted above should work. Just a note for anyone considering MiniArt T-54/55 kits. They don't all come with the workable links discussed above!! Some have glue-able non-workable links. In fact I didn't realise that any had the workable type and I've therefore just bought a couple of sets of their after-market workable tracks I don't need.................. Both glue-able and workable types are available separately. As of today, Creative Models have the workable type for the knock-down price of £5.98. Looking through my stash of these kits I found that the T-55 Model 1965 without interior has the workable links. However, I found that all of these have the glue-able links (but oddly have workable torsion bars!). I thought there might be a relationship between track type and interior / non-interior, but it seems not. Maybe its a release date thing. T54-2 non-interior T54B interior Tiran 4 Late non-interior Tiran 4 Early interior Tiran 4Sh interior Edited December 10, 2019 by Das Abteilung Bad spelling! 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald.b Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 thank you very much for this info Das Abteilung Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Das Abteilung said: I believe these are designed to be assembled dry with the pins being a friction fit. If you leave them dry then yes you risk some dropping out. But if you glue the pins and then break any you have a problem. Try a couple. If they work as a push-fit then leave them like that. Otherwise, a tiny touch of Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting on the tip as noted above should work. Just a note for anyone considering MiniArt T-54/55 kits. They don't all come with the workable links discussed above!! Some have glue-able non-workable links. In fact I didn't realise that any had the woirkable type and I've therefore just bought a couple of sets of their after-market workable tracks I don't need.................. Both glue-able and workable types are available separately. As of today, Creative Models have the workable type for the knock-down price of £5.98. Looking through my stash of these kits I found that the T-55 Model 1965 without interior has the workable links. However, I found that all of these have the glue-able links (but oddly have workable torsion bars!). I thought there might be a relationship between track type and interior / non-interior, but it seems not. Maybe its a release date thing. T54-2 non-interior T54B interior Tiran 4 Late non-interior Tiran 4 Early interior Tiran 4Sh interior Thanks for the information Das, very informative. I will see how I go with mine with a little glue on the end, I did try four sections earlier and they seem able to still stretch. If it wasn't for the interior section I would be more happy to make a start on it. I suppose I could see how that goes and if a problem just not include the interior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 2 hours ago, FrancisGL said: Hi Andy, I see you've decided to go for T55. I have never done a Miniart kit (I have in the stash some, but I don't know when I will be able to do a good job ...), but they seem to waste quality and detail on all four sides ... lol. Although nothing is free, I imagine that the kit will be somewhat overwhelming, with so many pieces and PEs (I imagine). If I can be of help, ask me, although surely there are more experienced mates than me. The topic of links can be very tedious and tiring, but it is worth the effort. I do not know how they will be in the sprues, but maybe if you choose the cutting tool well, you will save a lot of work after sanding, as there would be less residue in the piece ... I would like to see how it develops, you take your time, because it is certainly a great model / kit. Cheers Andy 👍 Thanks Francis, hopefully I will take my time and not rush this. Would like to make a good job. I did pick up some Top Cutter pro pliers today, might help with the cutting. I may come back with some advice when this all kicks off. https://anticsonline.uk/N1235_New-warehouse-stock-Antics/108273263_Expo-Mini-top-Cutter-Pro-Pliers-75604.html Many thanks Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 12, 2019 Author Share Posted December 12, 2019 I've been thinking about the build and what weathering I would like to apply. Initially I wanted to build the Soviet Army 70-80's scheme in a light brown. But, I cannot find any reference to a winter affect, probably because this was used in Africa and the Middle East. So, if I want a winter affect would I opt for the more classic Soviet scheme like the ones below. The weathering mag I have shows the scheme below, but I cannot help think that this is overkill for this type of tank?? I will be picking up some oils to create a pin wash as well. Another big learning curve I think on this one. All opinions welcomed. Did manage to create some more track sections. Cheers Andy 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miketheexrock Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 I drilled all mine and use vaping wire Finger hurt like hell , but is was still workable. Didn't like the fact that if you sneezed on the OOb links the track snapped just throw my tuppence worth out there 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 12, 2019 Author Share Posted December 12, 2019 45 minutes ago, Miketheexrock said: I drilled all mine and use vaping wire Finger hurt like hell , but is was still workable. Didn't like the fact that if you sneezed on the OOb links the track snapped just throw my tuppence worth out there Wow, how long did that all take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miketheexrock Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 About 6 episodes of the expanse ,😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 12, 2019 Author Share Posted December 12, 2019 For those that have built an inside kit, how much of the engine is seen, I'm not sure whether to paint post engine build, or paint the individual parts and then build? I know what I would rather do, and that's paint at the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 Made some progress, tactics are, little and often rather than hours and hours at a time. When I was looking at all the sprues I was getting overwhelmed, I even thought about not starting at all. Never seen so many small parts for something this size. Once the controls and linkages are in place I will prime and pain this section. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 (edited) It seemed that the base plate didn't fix in too well, not sure why but they have you fix this in so that it can swivel, but nothing seems to be fixed to it that required it to spin?? Edited December 18, 2019 by Andy350 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsman Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 Soviet and Warsaw Pact units using winter camouflage seem to have used a permanent paint with broad patterns of white over the green and it seems to have been confined to areas of fairly permanent winter conditions. They didn't routinely camouflage for winter in other areas. I don't think there's much scope for a WW2-style temporary winter finish on any Cold War Soviet tank. Perhaps in Afghanistan at a stretch: look for photos. The brown Soviet scheme would probably have been for a unit based in one of the Central Asian republics (one of the Stans) where the landscape is largely arid. Possibly in Afghanistan. Over on the Cold War discussion section there is a discussion about Russian green, where this photo came up.........!! Any shade you like! Which begs the question whether MiniArt's "brown" is in fact one of the browner greens that can be seen at the right and left of the photo. The dark green in the centre of the 2nd row is perhaps more like the colour we might typically use. There is a winter-camouflaged one on the far left, 7 rows up. I thought the appearance of 2 greens on that vehicle might be a photo aberration, but the one 3 rows up on the far left also has 2 greens with white or light grey patches. 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 Hi Andy, I see that you have been brave and have made progress, you just have to see the thickness of the box to realize what it may contain ... tremors ... I don't know what your degree of skill / experience is, but I think these kits are complex and therefore, desperate for anyone like me, because they can pose a challenge beyond what I can do. I just trust that what should go in a specific place, go there without problem, because if not, that is an extra point of difficulty, very annoying ... Nice progress for now mate ... Cheers Andy and Merry Xmas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 (edited) 51 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi Andy, I see that you have been brave and have made progress, you just have to see the thickness of the box to realize what it may contain ... tremors ... I don't know what your degree of skill / experience is, but I think these kits are complex and therefore, desperate for anyone like me, because they can pose a challenge beyond what I can do. I just trust that what should go in a specific place, go there without problem, because if not, that is an extra point of difficulty, very annoying ... Nice progress for now mate ... Cheers Andy and Merry Xmas Hi Francis, They are certainly an advanced kit and didn't really appreciate the work involved. I probably should have picked something easier that I could have spent more time on painting and weathering. Which is what I will try and do for this. I think I need to get hold of some mud and look at creating a snowy effect. Merry Xmas to you Francis. Edited December 18, 2019 by Andy350 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 Small progress made. Each step is taking a long while, but I'm doing this in short intervals. The tricky part was the seat, could get that aligned that well with the PE. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Hi Andy, Good work, without a doubt this kit, needs time, patience and ability to tame it, but if you continue with the "modules" as you indicate, when you realize it, you will have it ...🍿 Cheers Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 8 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi Andy, Good work, without a doubt this kit, needs time, patience and ability to tame it, but if you continue with the "modules" as you indicate, when you realize it, you will have it ...🍿 Cheers Andy Thanks Francis. This will take some time indeed. Painted the shells today, need yo tidy up a bit. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 More progress made. Cannot wait for this internal build bit to be done and dusted. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 (edited) Hi Andy, Looks nice, when everything is in place, I think the result will surprise you (for good ... of course), ... Cheers Andy 👍 Edited January 3, 2020 by FrancisGL 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 9 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi Andy, Looks nice, when everything is in place, I think the result will surprise you (for good ... of course), ... Cheers Andy 👍 Thanks Francis. It is coming along, there seems no way of speeding his up, waiting for painted parts to dry etc. Still not too sure if I will be painting wheels and tracks and then painting or painting and fittings, I want these to be weathered (have a jar of mud that I would like to apply) as the finished model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 (edited) Interior now complete as I can get it, wasn't too bad getting panels square with the help of some super glue. Edited January 5, 2020 by Andy350 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now