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Dansk

3 eduard mustangs #####finished#####

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22 hours ago, srkirad said:

Green one looks fantastic - faded OD suits it very well!

Metallic one is also nice - looking forward to see them decaled both!

 

6 hours ago, Hewy said:

Yes thats a very well applied covering of od,👍the preshade has saved tons of work with weathering,superb

thanks mate. I also gave it a touch of lightened OD with a tough of white and tan in it in some panels to give it another layer.  But 90% of the effect IS that preshading.

2 hours ago, Johnson said:

Excellent work! Gonna look good.

Good evening everyone

Thanks for the good vibes above Guys 👍☺️

 

Tonight rovin’ rhoda got a coat of future after removing the putty worms.

I like the edge softness between the upper and lower colours, not too hard or soft I think. 

All is well in that corner. Im enjoying it! 🤗

 

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The shiny plane had a different turn of events today.

Because i was conscious of the paint lifting I masked very carefully and softly the areas that would not get the new polished aluminium coat. I wanted hue differences between painted wings, and various metal parts to give depth.

 

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Well the hue differences are just great i realy like the subtlty. Its hard to photograph though but you get the idea.

 

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Then a very bad thing happened.... 😳🤭😶😟😢

 

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The OD / NG boundary is really excellent, I'll be following you in a few days at 1/72... I hope!

 

Very sorry about the metal finish coming away. I've had exactly the same thing happen with Alclad on a gloss surface, it can lift. It seems to adhere better to a matt surface, but the NMF result is better on gloss black... a tricky problem. But I have found that as Alclad is so thin, refinishing it, applying more of the same on damaged Alclad finish, works OK.

 

Best of luck with it, I'm sure it will look fine.

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Yeah, OD demarkation lines turned out just balanced, not so soft neither so hard.

 

Regarding to NMF one, I rerolled a bit back to see your process of priming before NMF.

I see you've polished black with polishing compound - could it be that compound is not compatible with metalizers i.e. causing lifting of NMF layers? 🙄

 

 

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24 minutes ago, Johnson said:

The OD / NG boundary is really excellent, I'll be following you in a few days at 1/72... I hope!

 

Very sorry about the metal finish coming away. I've had exactly the same thing happen with Alclad on a gloss surface, it can lift. It seems to adhere better to a matt surface, but the NMF result is better on gloss black... a tricky problem. But I have found that as Alclad is so thin, refinishing it, applying more of the same on damaged Alclad finish, works OK.

 

Best of luck with it, I'm sure it will look fine.

Thanks i’ll try recovering and see how we go (maybe i’ll cover it all in future to help protect it?) of course this means masking over the new parts - maybe i’ll just hold card in place for that.

first time i’ve used alclad, previous builds I have used ak xtreme metal and that seems a lot more robust.

3 minutes ago, srkirad said:

Yeah, OD demarkation lines turned out just balanced, not so soft neither so hard.

 

Regarding to NMF one, I rerolled a bit back to see your process of priming before NMF.

I see you've polished black with polishing compound - could it be that compound is not compatible with metalizers i.e. causing lifting of NMF layers? 🙄

 

 

I only polished the fuselage. But there was lifting there and on the wings too.

Also fuselage and wings both had different primers and different black bases on top, so i think its down to alclads fragility? And the tape being a little tooo sticky maybe?

 

so with aircraft #3 am i still continuing with the planned Miss Steve scheme with NMF
noooooo ☺️

 

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On 12/7/2019 at 10:10 PM, Dansk said:

 

49184458897_98eea3e8e6_h.jpg
 

 

 

 

Erm... so that leaves me with the option of Master mike as the only non NMF with a fillet for aircraft #3.

 

Or the shark mouthed british one (but I’ve specced the build to discount that aircraft now with the build parts choices so far (and I think the US schemes just suit it better) and I’m not keen on buying new decals with the sheer number above, it seems ridiculous.)

 

but @Joss is doing Master Mike. Joss do you mind if I do that scheme too?? 
 

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I didn't do many NMF kits so far, but those I did, I've used only Gunze Mr. Color Metalizers - bufing ones, and after drying I gave them a few thin coats of Tamiya X-22 Gloss Clear.

So far it didn't lift metallic layers - it seems X-22 keeps them safe from lifting and they don't lose their shine 🤨

Edited by srkirad

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1 minute ago, srkirad said:

I didn't do many NMF kits so far, but those I did, I've used only Gunze Mr. Color Metalizers - bufing ones, and after drying I gave them a few thin coats of Tamiya X-22 Gloss Clear.

So far it didn't lift metallic layers - it seems X-22 keeps them safe from lifting and they don't loose their shine 🤨

Sounds like a good combination. I’ll have to give that stuff a try.


Good thing about building 3 aircraft is I can afford to completely muck up 2 builds and still hopefully end up with 1 good one :)

thats a 300% better chance of a good result than my usual odds 😁

 

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Those buffing metalizers are really good products - you allow them some 10-15min to rest, and then take some soft cloth (best is some old cotton t-shirt) to polish it.

Aluminium gives very nice shine, Dark Iron is actually Gunmetal/Blackmetal, Stainless is Steel - good for some exhausts, while Chrome Silver is high shine polished metal.

They are not on par with Alclad, but they are afordable and have solid performance, plus on smaller parts you can even brush paint with them!

 

On the other hand, you can try Gunze Super Metalizers, but they have higher price, are NOT buffable, and they don't guarantee so much better final look then regular ones (MC series).

 

NMF is really wide open area for experimenting - there are a lot of different producst on market, but only if we had 2 more lives to waste on experimenting... 😄

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As the wings of ‘ silver ‘ Mustangs were not NMF but covered with silver lacquer, I would suggest that you don’t need to use metallic paint on them, reducing the risk of lifting it when de-masking. I use a suitable enamel paint or Tamiya AS12 Bare Metal Silver, which has worked well for me in the past.

 

John

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14 hours ago, srkirad said:

They are not on par with Alclad

This is the problem I've found, Alclad really does seem to give the best NMF (and other metal effects) finish. The metal contents, the fine grained powder that they add to give that metal finish, just seems much finer, and it shows. But Alclad can be fragile and prone to lifting. The only better NMF finish I ever found was SnJ polishing powder but it was a bit tricky to apply and is no longer available.

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Thanks for the good advice and sharing your experiences chaps 🙏

I guess I should also have refered to my test mule, the one i used earlier in the build thinking about it...

 

On a positive note mustang #3 is now developing too way back at the sanding and filling and scribing stage (while #1 and #2 are curing after another coat of future.)

 

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Edited by Dansk

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On 16/01/2020 at 22:05, Dansk said:

but @Joss is doing Master Mike. Joss do you mind if I do that scheme too?? 

 

No problem at all its your build!!

Sorry to hear the painting didn't turn out right!

The other OD turned out great!!

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On 1/18/2020 at 9:05 AM, Joss said:

No problem at all its your build!!

Sorry to hear the painting didn't turn out right!

The other OD turned out great!!

Thanks Joss, didnt want to step on your toes 👍

 

ok, 

The state of play this evening here at casa mustang...

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#3 (centre) is without doubt the best one. All the lessons learnt from the previous 2 are implemented hence its lagging behind the other two

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‘Rhoda has been half-decaled - that’s really coming together now. 
Those chequers around the nose are a right pain though. 
 

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And the silver one’s paint is now rock solid after a couple of coats of future.

 

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I should have done that to start with. A few bits peeled off again prior to heavy future coats. i’ve kinda lost interest in that one though, its kinda lost its magic for me. i’ve been sanding it back a lot and might weather it a loaddds for fun, (You can see a bit of this in the ensemble shot above), but my focus is #2 and #3 right now because they are more fun to work on 😁
 

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They’re looking really good a Paul.

 

AW

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22 hours ago, Andwil said:

They’re looking really good a Paul.

 

AW

Thanks a lot 👍🙏

 

ok todays update:


Aircraft #3 I’m quite excited about.
Everything is going well on it. Now she has a cockpit in place and front glazing and all the gaps are proving to be the better lot so far.

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Really excited about working in it 🤗

On the other hand Aircraft #1; I was really unhappy with the paint overall, So I’m stripping it all off and starting afresh no less!

 

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And wouldn’t you know it, now its got a coat of future on it It’s rock solid and difficult to get the paint off!

Hold on, I’ve learn’t something here! 💡 

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Just catching up again Paul, sorry to see you have had some setbacks with the NMF finish but it looks like it is back on  track now.

Rovin Rhoda looks great, I do like a Mustang in camo and I can imagine how much of a pain those chequers were to get to conform to the nose and you have done a great job on them. Build No.3 looks really good, have you decided on a scheme yet?

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19 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

Just catching up again Paul, sorry to see you have had some setbacks with the NMF finish but it looks like it is back on  track now.

Rovin Rhoda looks great, I do like a Mustang in camo and I can imagine how much of a pain those chequers were to get to conform to the nose and you have done a great job on them. Build No.3 looks really good, have you decided on a scheme yet?

Thanks for the good vibes Craig 👍

I think I’ll go for ‘Master Mike’ as aircraft #3 scheme.

it should be interesting next to ‘rovin’ rhoda’ too as both are from 357 fighter group, so stablemates.

of course that means more nose chequers 😳

 

Aircraft #1 I am gonna drop I decided this evening, and focus on the fun builds, so it’s been assigned to the shelf of doom until further notice. 
I found it tiresome stripping it for a build I’d lost mojo on. Better to have fun right? That’s what this is all about ☺️
 

 

 

 

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I think you’ve made the right choice, but I hope we’ll see more of #1 in the near future.

 

John

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18 hours ago, Dansk said:

Better to have fun right? That’s what this is all about ☺️

Absolutely spot on! That's why I dumped my Revell Tornado last year.

You have definitely made the right decision, this is a hobby after all :) .

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Moving onwards and upwards

#3 has been primed and preshaded ready for paint 🤗

 

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The bottom’s painted on #3, 

 

49431619297_f730b88662_h.jpg

 

Note the bit of yellow at the nose - the theory being to ease decal placement precision the red yellow chequer decals where they meet the very edge.

 

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(Mmmmm the smell of new cutting mat)

The top was masked...

 

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...And painted too.

 

49431619472_f3ecd257c3_h.jpg

 

On both this and rovin rhoda, its not actually Olive Drab but ‘Dark Green’ ; Eduards call out gives a choice on that. I used my new (well it’s been in a drawer for a year but its unused) airbrush for this. Its an exact duplicate of my current airbrush, but the difference is huge. The old one needs a service and new needle and nozzle, it was near unusable compared to the new one. 
The worm demarkation lines match rovin rhoda luckily.
 

49431014003_0017eb07ad_h.jpg

 

Anyway I needed to achieve a nice clean edged red cone at the foreword end of the spinner.

This cannot fail! Paul, you’re a genius. This is the best idea since.. well... Since ever! 🤓

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...err hold on... that didn’t work 🤨 ...need to rethink this. 🤔

 

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Looks a bit like a tequila sunrise. Not the new airbrushes fault, more it’s owners stupid idea 🤪

Edited by Dansk

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I was going to use the same technique... :huh: not sure now! It seems such a good idea in theory. Maybe a bead of blu tack under the template to seal the edges?

 

That aside, all looking very good Paul. I've just bought the 1/48 Eduard P-51D-5, looks great. So rushing through the rest of my 1/72 P-51Bs so I can try to fit it in!

 

Cheers,

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12 minutes ago, Johnson said:

I was going to use the same technique... :huh: not sure now! It seems such a good idea in theory. Maybe a bead of blu tack under the template to seal the edges?

 

That aside, all looking very good Paul. I've just bought the 1/48 Eduard P-51D-5, looks great. So rushing through the rest of my 1/72 P-51Bs so I can try to fit it in!

 

Cheers,

Yeah some really nice details with the eduard kit isn’t there?

I need a new cunning plan for the cone. I think blu tack under  the stencil would Possibly be soft edged in places.

Maybe sticking or dipping the now red tip into something (masking fluid??) like candle dipping and then painting yellow again on the exposed spinner rear? Theres probably a better idea out there.

 

edit: now i’ve thought about you idea it could be great right? If the tack keeps the stencil in place tight on the cone and the stencil is not removed until the paint is dry. So the template is the edge pressed firm but the tack just keeps it there.

Edited by Dansk

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33 minutes ago, Johnson said:

was going to use the same technique... :huh: not sure now! It seems such a good idea in theory. Maybe a bead of blu tack under the template to seal the edges?

Yes that and tape over the closest holes on the circle gauge. Or use the correct size hole on the gauge to make a circle in card stock or index card ? 

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