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A pair of Eduard FW190 A8-R2 1/48 scale


cger

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Hi all,

 

here are some pics of two 1/48 scale Eduard kits I completed lately. Originally I got my hands on  the Reichsverteidigung special boxing, which allows  to build  one FW 190 A8-R2 and one Bf 109 G14, with plenty of nice marking options.  After building one FW 190, I really wanted to make another with the extra glass armor plates on the side of the canopy, so I purchased an extra Overtree kit. The build went very easily (much easier than the earlier FW190 A8 release, which was tricky to assemble). 

 

As usual I painted the kits with Gunze Aqueous Hobby colors. I used H 317 and H 68 for the RLM 76 and RLM 74. To add variety I used the recommended H 69 for the Grauviolet RLM 75 on one kit and H 305 on the other. The H 305 has a less violet and more gray shade.

 

The weathering was done with oil washes, acrylic ink pencils, pigments, and chipping done with  foam.

 

have a nice day,

 

Christian.

 

 

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Edited by cger
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Both are superb. I’m going to try 305 on my next Wurger, I like the additional contrast. Did you actually use 317 for RLM76, or was it a typo for 417. I’m not picking fault, just admiring your work and if you used 317, I may well try that too.

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These are very good! How did you do/what did you use for the oil streaking underneath? It looks amazingly convincing, was it all of the above or just the oil washes?

Edited by OutcastJoel
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Beautifully built and finished pair of Würger Christian. Very nice weathering and detailing. In all, very convincing. I too am interested in your use of the different colours and will experiment further myself.

 

Cheers

 

Malcolm

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thanks to all for the kind words, I am glad you like these two builds, the recent Eduard releases are very nice kits for reasonable prices.

 

I stand corrected for the RLM 76, it is H 417 of course, this was a typo. The streaks on the underside are done in several steps.

 

First an oil wash is applied with a fine brush to panel lines  (I use Mig Ammo products, but home made oil washes are just as good). It is good to use several different colors at this step.

 

Then  I airbrush very diluted coats of earth tones, like Tamiya  XF-52 flat earth,  XF -57 buff or XF-79 Deck brown.  This goes in recesses or whereever dust and dirt is likely to accumulate. On panel lines I  also airbrush thin coats of Tamiya Smoke, or Prince August Game inks, diluted in Gunze flat varnish. 

 

To do small streaks, I use Faber-Castell Pitt artist pens (size B).

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The streaks can be erased or blended with water, using a small flat brush. Finally the chipping is done with a small block of foam, dipped in Prince August paint. You have to remove most of the paint by dabbing the foam on some paper towel, until very little remains ( a bit like when you do a drybrush). Then lightly dab the foam (held in interlocking tweezers) where you want paint chips to appear.

 

The key is to do this slowly, in several steps. There is no need to hurry, since (at least for me), this is one of the most satisfactory moments of modelling !

 

have a nice day,

 

Christian.

 

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They both look superb and a great testament to your ability at final finishing of a model. I get too impatient and just want to get it on the shelf and start another but these show what patience can get you. 

 

Pete

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