Jim Bates Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 So redone the first two shrouds again. You always need three hands when doing knots and found tieing dead eyes to the shroud and getting the right height is a bit of a bother. So I came up with a method that suits me. Not to put the dead eye in but hold the shroud as 1st picture then tie and loop as 2nd picture then insert the dead eye and adjust the shroud for height by pulling the shroud up or down. Hope that is clear. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 At last finished the main mast shrouds there is a little bit fine tuning still to be done but went well. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Its Not bad. My opinion is that the ropes that connect the dead eyes should be darker. The dead eyes were smeared with resin and tar, so that the rope and the wood itself would not rot, so the rope could not be so bright. If you decide, you can darken them with some oil paint and turpentine. The masts, on the other hand, you can use a little wash with dark oil paint and turpentine - to add volume to the protruding parts and emphasize the details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Moarein said: Its Not bad. My opinion is that the ropes that connect the dead eyes should be darker. The dead eyes were smeared with resin and tar, so that the rope and the wood itself would not rot, so the rope could not be so bright. If you decide, you can darken them with some oil paint and turpentine. The masts, on the other hand, you can use a little wash with dark oil paint and turpentine - to add volume to the protruding parts and emphasize the details. Thanks for the tips Moarein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 15 minutes ago, Jim Bates said: Thanks for the tips Moarein Do You know how to work with oil paint and turpentine ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 No I have not done anything like that. What colour paint to use? and what mixture with turpentine is it brushed on? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 I use double refined turpentine and dark brown oil paint. The brand of paint is not important. With the tip of a toothpick you take some of the paint - it is thick as a paste and put it on the part. Then, with a brush, apply turpentine as a paint spreader so that it fills the concave parts. The trick is to make the protruding parts lighter than the concave ones. Here I photographed how I emphasized the wooden texture of my Soleil Royal: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 You can use the same technique with other colors of oil paints to add volume to the detail. You can also make rain tracks, leaks, etc. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted July 2, 2020 Author Share Posted July 2, 2020 Thanks Moarein will try out on the masts later. Have now finished the lower shrouds but some will have to be tightened up its a bit of a guess how much lift you will get from the lower dead eye I have left adjustment for this eventuality. Found I was running out of room for the shrouds on the Fore Top but just got them all in see picture. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 Heller didnt get the anchor rest in the right place got in the way off the forward chains and wouldn't allow the anchor to rest properly, So using Daffi resin anchor rests quickly ground off the old rest and moved it to it's proper place one side done. Old position New position 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted July 19, 2020 Author Share Posted July 19, 2020 Got the bowsprit shrouds fitted. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 Seeing that the stays are fitted with a cone shape called a mouse finish dimensions I worked out to be .110 dia and .1 length the centre hole being the dia of thread used. Making this from spruce in the kit having a choice of colors I went for light tan. Working a hole in the stay that the mouse fits in is just under 3/32. All well and good until it came to doing the snaking can't seem to get it tied to the stays and looking as it should ? Any input would be appreciated. Straight from the lathe and ready for fettling. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 Getting on with the shrouds me thinking I had all blocks fitted to the masts but I had missed the mizzen shroud eyes on the main mast. Now a month or so ago I would not liked to attempt to tie the eyes to the mast but now no problem. 1st attempt at snaking rejected. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Thanks lads for your likes. I am now in clove hitch heaven having finished one lower side of the main mast. It wasn't so bad threading the ratlines a bit therapeutic getting lines done at odd moments and seeing it taking shape. So I will turn it around to do the other side. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 Before I started the ratlines I made a jig to keep the rat lines straight It was from Pbishop Victory blog in Model ship world It's made up of two lengths of 3mm x 6mm plastic strip with fine sand paper glued on one 3mm side using brass wire to close the ends – this traps the shrouds inside and the sandpaper keeps them from sliding around. The 3mm thickness translates to 12 inches 1/100 scale; this will end up being closer to about 14 inches when all is done which is about right for ratline spacing. The resulting ratline is nice and straight and this jig will also prevent the pulling in on the outside shrouds. It works very well thought I would pass on this tip for modellers that haven’t came across it. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 7, 2020 Author Share Posted August 7, 2020 Thanks lads for your likes. That's the main mast ratlines finished at last. I decided after a few goes at the snaking to just needle and thread it with just a touch of CU now and again to keep things in order. Just looking ahead to see what's coming up and I realised the main topmast and preventer stays didn't have rings on the deck to belay them to? Rings were put in plus holes for Trus pendant's 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 9, 2020 Author Share Posted August 9, 2020 Next is installing the main and mizzen topmast stays. That went well something that didn't quite go so well as I was swinging the ship around the bowsprit caught the wall and nearly tipped the ship over caught it just in time minimal damage done. But that got me into action making extra supports for the hull something I had been putting off for some time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 11, 2020 Author Share Posted August 11, 2020 Ratlines on the starboard foremast finished, As a diversion from ratlines I am installing the stays along the centre the back stays will come after the ratlines are finished. Fitting the mizzen topmast stay I realised because I copied the foremast blocks on the main mast the the block for the mizzen stay was to low!! There is a good drawing in longridge's book of what to do for the mizzen stay. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 Quite by chance I have left the mizzen ratlines to last pleased I did as I found the ratline jig on the mizzen mast was to far to long for the shrouds, So that got cut down to a more manageable size now having finished all the lower ratlines. I turned up a small eye on the lathe and tied it to the forward mast for the main royal stay. Ratlines in need of a haircut 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 (edited) Next to be added are the Fore topmast stay and preventer stay. Two mouse's fitted and as I had already fitted the blocks to the knighthead it was a simple matter to tie them up. Main topmast stay to starboard Mizzen to port these lines don't take a lot of time and a good distraction from ratlines. Edited August 28, 2020 by Jim Bates more information 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Continuing on with the build went into production fixing hooks to the futtock shrouds, Made a start on fitting them. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 Looking at my last picture I had uploaded had realised the last ratline should have been a thicker black shroud called a futtock stave. what is correct for ratlines black or natural? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 Should have left the main and foremast stays till I had fitted the topmast shrouds as they are now getting in the way? OK I can work around them. It will soon be back to ratline fitting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafi Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 On 9/3/2020 at 12:05 PM, Jim Bates said: Looking at my last picture I had uploaded had realised the last ratline should have been a thicker black shroud called a futtock stave. what is correct for ratlines black or natural? Depends on how long they were fixed. When first set, they had a litgher tarred tone, with every layer of more stockholm tar, color became darker 🙂 Nice to be seen on Hermione 🙂 Nice build!!! XXXDAn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 Thanks Dafi for clearing that up for me. Looking ahead of how I wanted to display the sails on the yards I am leaning towards having them furled as it shows more of the deck detail. But that's a long way off yet. Latest from my build Have strung up the main mast breast backstays Port side just to see how it looks starboard hanging around till after ratlines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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