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Another Victory Build


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So redone the first two shrouds again. You always need three hands when doing knots and found tieing dead eyes to the shroud and getting the right height is a bit of a bother.

So I came up with a method that suits me.

Not to put the dead eye in but hold the shroud as 1st picture then tie and loop as 2nd picture then insert the dead eye and adjust the shroud for height by pulling the shroud up or down.

Hope that is clear.

_MG_4560 _MG_4561 _MG_4567

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Its Not bad.
My opinion is that the ropes that connect the dead eyes should be darker.
The dead eyes were smeared with resin and tar, so that the rope and the wood itself would not rot, so the rope could not be so bright.
If you decide, you can darken them with some oil paint and turpentine.

The masts, on the other hand, you can use a little wash with dark oil paint and turpentine - to add volume to the protruding parts and emphasize the details.

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1 hour ago, Moarein said:

Its Not bad.
My opinion is that the ropes that connect the dead eyes should be darker.
The dead eyes were smeared with resin and tar, so that the rope and the wood itself would not rot, so the rope could not be so bright.
If you decide, you can darken them with some oil paint and turpentine.

The masts, on the other hand, you can use a little wash with dark oil paint and turpentine - to add volume to the protruding parts and emphasize the details.

Thanks for the tips Moarein 

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I use double refined turpentine and dark brown oil paint. The brand of paint is not important.
With the tip of a toothpick you take some of the paint - it is thick as a paste and put it on the part.
Then, with a brush, apply turpentine as a paint spreader so that it fills the concave parts.
The trick is to make the protruding parts lighter than the concave ones.

Here I photographed how I emphasized the wooden texture of my Soleil Royal:

 

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1960023_10201557296483144_2138547557_n.j

 

1891124_10201557296643148_2125647473_n.j

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Thanks Moarein will try out on the masts later.

 Have now finished the lower shrouds but some will have to be tightened up its a bit of a guess how much lift you will get from the lower dead eye I have left adjustment for this eventuality.

  Found I was running out of room for the shrouds on the Fore Top but just got them all in see picture.

_MG_4578 _MG_4583 _MG_4582

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heller didnt get the anchor rest in the right place got in the way off the forward chains and wouldn't allow the anchor to rest properly, So using Daffi resin anchor rests quickly ground off the old rest and moved it to it's proper place one side done.

 

Old position

_MG_4591 _MG_4593

New position

_MG_4612

 

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Seeing that the stays are fitted with a cone shape called a mouse finish dimensions I worked out to be .110  dia and  .1 length the centre hole being the dia of thread used.  Making this from spruce in the kit having a choice of colors I went for light tan.

Working a hole in the stay that the mouse fits in is just under 3/32. All well and good until it came to doing the snaking can't seem to get it tied to the stays and looking as it should ? Any input would be appreciated. 

 

Straight from the lathe and ready for fettling.

_MG_4639 _MG_4642 _MG_4644

 

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Getting on with the shrouds  me thinking I had all blocks fitted to the masts but I had missed the mizzen shroud eyes on the main mast.

 Now a month or so ago I would not liked to attempt to tie the eyes to the mast but now no problem.

1st attempt at snaking rejected.

 

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Thanks lads for your likes.

I am now in clove hitch heaven having finished one lower side of the main mast. It wasn't so bad threading the ratlines a bit therapeutic getting  lines done at odd moments and seeing it taking shape. So I will turn it around to do the other side.

 

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_MG_4658

 

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_MG_4663

 

Before I started the ratlines I made a jig to keep the rat lines straight It was from Pbishop Victory blog in Model ship world

 It's made up of two lengths of 3mm x 6mm plastic strip with fine sand paper glued on one 3mm side using brass wire to close the ends – this traps the shrouds inside and the sandpaper keeps them from sliding around.

 

The 3mm thickness translates to 12 inches 1/100 scale; this will end up being closer to about 14 inches when all is done which is about right for ratline spacing. The resulting ratline is nice and straight and this jig will also prevent the pulling in on the outside shrouds.

 

It works very well thought I would pass on this tip for modellers that haven’t came across it.

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Thanks lads for your likes.

That's the main mast ratlines finished at last. I decided after a few goes at the snaking to just needle  and thread it with just a touch of CU now and again to keep things in order.

Just looking ahead to see what's coming up and I realised the main topmast  and preventer stays didn't have rings on the deck to belay them to? Rings were put in plus holes for Trus pendant's

 

_MG_4674

 

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Next is installing the main and mizzen topmast stays.

That went well something that didn't quite go so well as I was swinging the ship around the bowsprit caught the wall

and nearly tipped the ship over caught it just in time minimal damage done.

But that got me into action making extra supports for the hull something I had been putting off for some time.

 

_MG_4689

 

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  • Mike changed the title to Another Victory Build

Ratlines on the starboard foremast finished,

As a diversion from ratlines I am installing the stays along the centre the back stays will come after the ratlines are finished.

Fitting the mizzen topmast stay I realised because I copied the foremast blocks on the main mast the the block for the mizzen stay was to low!!

There is a good drawing in longridge's book of what to do for the mizzen stay.

_MG_4695 _MG_4701 _MG_4709

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quite by chance I have left the mizzen ratlines to last pleased I did as I found the ratline jig on the mizzen mast was to far to long for the shrouds, So that got cut down to a more manageable size now having finished all the lower ratlines. I turned up a small eye on the lathe and tied it to the forward mast for the main royal stay.

 

_MG_4712

 

_MG_4718

Ratlines in need of a haircut

_MG_4725

 

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Next to be added are the Fore topmast stay and preventer stay.

Two mouse's fitted and as I had already fitted the blocks to the knighthead it was a simple matter to tie them up.

Main topmast stay to starboard Mizzen to port these lines don't take a lot of time and a good distraction from ratlines. 

_MG_4726 _MG_4729

 

Edited by Jim Bates
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On 9/3/2020 at 12:05 PM, Jim Bates said:

Looking at my last picture I had uploaded had realised the last ratline should have been a thicker black shroud called a futtock stave.

what is correct for ratlines black or natural?

Depends on how long they were fixed. When first set, they had a litgher tarred tone, with every layer of more stockholm tar, color became darker 🙂

 

Nice to be seen on Hermione 🙂

 

Nice build!!!

 

XXXDAn

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Thanks Dafi for clearing that up for me. 

Looking ahead of how I wanted to display the sails on the yards I am leaning towards having them furled as it shows more of the deck detail. But that's a long way  off yet.

Latest from my build Have strung up the main mast breast backstays Port side just to see how it looks starboard hanging around till after ratlines.

 

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_MG_4772

 

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