1/48 Eduard Tempest - Not the New One - FINISHED

[Ray_W]

First post of my work and apologies in advance if I stuff up posting the pics.

 

Thanks for the great group build and the incentive to finish this project - my old Eduard Tempest sitting on the shelf for 6 years, must be a 10 year project now! 

 

I've shown great strength in not bowing to temptation and just grabbing the new Eduard version. There has been too much of life been put in to this and frankly, there is great satisfaction in bashing it into something a little more acceptable.

 

 

The kit was the old Clostermann Series 2 that I decided to backdate to Series 1. I dropped the main wings for a more accurate profile, extended the fuselage, rebuilt the tail, scratched a new rudder, thinned trailing edges, some touches to the gear wells, ready to add extended cannons and wing root bulges and then stalled on the undercarriage.

 

 

 

I looked to enhance the plastic and was ready to scratch build the undercarriage (Paul Budzik inspiration) then I was give the chance to cheat. Eduard Brassin bronze undercarriage legs to the rescue. My effort as shelved on the left.

 

 

Mmmm - should I rivet? Let's see if I can finish in time.

 

Edited January 5, 2020 by Ray_W
Included photos

[Jinxman]

All sounds good - photos aren't loading for me though?

[Ray_W]

Thanks for letting me know the problem with the pics. First posts. Something wrong and will investigate.

[Ray_W]

Well let's try again. Reinstated an old Flickr account and trust this works. I've been wading through the BM FAQ's and hopefully it as simple as it seems. Let me know. Finger's crossed.

 

 

 

 

 

[Jinxman]

Looking good! Agree it would be a shame to put this to one side given all the attention it looks as if it has received.

 

Looking forward to seeing more,

 

cheers

[Ray_W]

 Well there's no excuse to not finish now. The road block removed. Belly landings no more. On its undercarriage and without glue. These Eduard bronze undercarriage legs are gorgeous. 

 

 

 

Simple fix for a square peg in a round hole - the humble file.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

 Now the real work starts. Patching up any old marks and scratches - CA and Mr Surfacer 500 to the rescue. Actually, its not too bad. The major fettling and patching was done by me in a prior life.

 

When I'm happy I'll hit it with some Mr Surfacer 1500 for a final check before re-scribing where needed.

 

I've decided not to rivet (it's a lovely smooth skinned Tempest after all) and this is about finishing "Shelf of Doom" projects but, maybe, worth enhancing those Dzus fasteners and restoring some limited but significant riveting. 

 

 

And we have to finish and get this aircraft in the air quickly. There is a Dora 9 lurking in the background.

 

 

[Ray_W]

Time to try a quick experiment before I undercoat. How should I do those rear navigation lights? Cut-outs are ready. Should I use some very small pieces of clear sprue and blend them in (need to do now) or use another solution preferably what can be done at the end?

 

By the way, ignore those two spots on the rudder where I have filled some pinholes which are waiting on final sanding. Mmmm … they look like perfect cover plates. Could this be a possible solution for the tail strengthening fish plates as fitted to the Series 1 Tempest? Mask and paint? This challenge can wait.

 

 

 

 

 

Simple fix - Toothpick and Gel CA - can be done after final painting and very controllable.

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Defects repaired and a nice coat of undercoat to check. All looking good.

 

 

 

 

Even though my go to undercoat (Gunze's Mr Finisher 1500) is touch dry almost immediately, I will still put this away for 48 hours so I have a nice tough base coat for the next step - rescribing and some "enhancements". 

 

Did I mention "enhancements". I'm trying to resist riveting but photos like the following and my huge mistake of looking at the subtle textures in Eduard's latest Tempests are tempting me. Careful, don't want this to slip back into the box and disappear into the plastic crate of stalled projects. Mmmm ,.... yes, there's still plenty of time to finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Doccur]

I have one of these along with an MDC tempest II conversion, so i shall be following with interest...

 

Cheers

 

Ash

[Ray_W]

Hi Ash,

 

I hope you get into your Tempest II soon. I would also follow with great interest.

 

I hope there is some value in my posts. Shame I came in with the big work largely done, those "fatal flaws" - thick wings, fuselage length (is it still a debate?) and fin. As they say, I am standing "on the shoulders of giants".  I remember some articles on the net where people cut and dropped the upper wing halves to get a better profile. I did this and was happy with the result. I did not use the Alley Cat conversion for the fuselage, rather, I made my own fuselage extension from laminated styrene and cut the fin and filled the fin using a plasticard insert  and Tamiya Polyester filler to fill and profile.  The combination of different materials (Eduard styrene, CA, Tamiya fillers of different types, Gunze fillers and finishers of different types.) is one reason why I am using an undercoat for scribing and riveting - another experiment.  

[Ray_W]

One trick that I think improves the look of the undercarriage bay is to glue small polystyrene square section to the inside of the wing opening for more scale appearance. Blend them back in with the wing and eliminate/hide the ugly thick wing join to the undercarriage bay. The opening size will be slightly under scale but the appearance is a marked improvement. To further enhance the thin skin appearance and also allow a more workable size of square section, I ground an old hacksaw blade to give a small edge to remove some material from the underside. Sorry no build photos but I hope the description make some sense.

 

Of course the best option is to do this this before gluing the wing halves together but I had already done that and was not happy with the appearance hence the post action necessary. 

 

 

[Doccur]

Hi @Ray_W,

 

it’s a testament to your fine workmanship that’s the kit has no visible signs of being heavily modified! I will have to search for some WIP to see how one would drop the wings.(edit, after further thought the wings may have to stay thick as changing the thickness would involve having to faff around sanding down the resin intakes... ) Regards the fuselage length, I may just cheat and purchase one of the aftermarket plugs. The fin will have to done In a similar fashion to yours! Many thanks for your advice and good luck with the build. 
 

Ash

Edited December 6, 2019 by Doccur

[Ray_W]

Back into my Tempest Project. The work for today (or is it therapy) is rescribing, dzus fasteners and riveting plus that touch up work that invariably, for me anyway, follows this activity. Top cowl and fuselage underway:

 

 

The original kit panel lines are not too bad, reasonably fine so it is mainly restoring lines rather than a complete rescribing job. I am also happy with some variation so it does not need to look like a chequer board. I'll show some pics and any advice is welcome.

 

My preferred technique is to use a razor saw. Some use a simple blade but I am happy with the handle attached. If a guide is needed I prefer electrician's tape. This holds adequately and forms well to the surface and provides sufficient guide for me. Cut some strips the size for what you need. As always, scribe lightly and let the tool do the work.

 

I like pushing away from the cutting teeth.

 

 

 

Then I finish with the Trumpeter scriber. I've had this for years and still works a charm.

 

 

 

Nice result and quick.

 

 

For the Dzus (or whatever brand Hawker used) fasteners I used a tool that I made from an old super fine paint brush. Just filed down the end and touch it up occasionally with some fine wet and dry paper. Certainly these are oversize. I'm sure someone from BM could chime in and let me know what was the actual diameter. 

 

 

 

Anyway, time to stop talking (typing) and get into it. Judging by those exhaust stains that Dora 9 has done engine tests! I am also assuming that late in the war they used whatever they could to support the aircraft while they did undercarriage tests. In this case a massive roll of insulation tape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

@Doccur

 

Ash, I here what you say about modifying MDC's resin intakes but I think it's worthwhile coming up with a work around. For me the defining feature of the Tempest was the thin elliptical wing and why I was prepared to give the mods a go. That was to make Eduard's first Tempest V look less like a Typhoon. Certainly on a Tempest II that big Centaurus radial will give a whole new look. 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Build current status with my iterative approach of work, error, correct and repeat. Scribing nearly complete. Not happy with those dzus fasteners. The Tempest had those smaller diameter slot head screws that disappear in most photos. But hey, I did capture that effect in this photo. Will redo as they do not stand up to close scrutiny.

 

 

 

 

The constant theme of this build is really how far do I take it. There is no chance to make it a late 2010's Eduard offering without spending another decade at my speed and capability so it's about knowing when to stop. Could be a 20 year project - should of built 1:1 scale.

 

But, I do love the subtle surface effects now being achieved by some kit makers. Time for a decision. Rescribing is nearing completion. On my Eduard rebox of the Hasegawa Typhoon I was happy with the subtle effect by doing my own riveting. As below.

 

The Tempest has a good surface to work with. Will take a soft pencil line well. Have good tools. Mostly free hand. Let's do it again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Regarding riveting maybe we change the saying "forewarned is forearmed" to "forearmed is forewarned"

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Not much to post this week due to work commitments but finally finished scribing and improvement of the surface. I decided to spend more time on this and re-scribe all panel lines for consistency adding some more work but happy with the result.

 

 

Undercoat where patched and I am happy. On this work I can always find another minor blemish and could go on for ever. Reality is with top coats, gloss coats, washes, decals, weathering, final coats, more weathering it will be hard to pick. Time to leave it alone and go onto the next step. 

 

 

Oh, and of course, just prior to the final coat I heard one of those noises that modeller's dread. The faintest "crack!". Yes the top cowl joint had opened up and had to be patched. Tamiya Extra Thin, light clamp and Gunze Mr. Dissolved Putty, and sand. Fixed. Note to self - some Evergreen strengthening on the inside next time.

 

I don't have any commercial affiliation with these brands just like to mention what I use because I like reading what others use. Always on the hunt for the next wonder product.

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

I like the subtle effects from riveting and the texture variation it will ultimately give to the finished wing. Not to highlight too greatly but it's there. Some angles, like the real aircraft it will be hard to pick. It also means this old Tempest better matches the more recent kits and I trust will not feel out of place on the shelf - the ultimate goal. 

 

This is the start - port wing underside.

 

 

 

 

When riveting, I used to take care with guides and such like which made the task a real pain. Now I just free hand. Firstly I just lay out what I want on the surface using a soft pencil (6B). I can rub it out and play around with it till I am happy. I do a section at a time. On small panels I will just draw what I want usually without measure or ruler. I then follow the lines using the riveter. 

 

 

 

 

Rub out the pencil lines and I am done. I'll give a light sand when all is done with 2000 grit.

 

We have so many specialist tools and potions available to us today that really many of these processes are not difficult. The time commitment is also not excessive.

 

 

 

Looking good. Mmmm …. must fix that tip of the aileron … as I said this work never ends.

 

I prefer the small wheel riveters as I find it easier to see what I am doing. Here I have a z63 (single wheel) and a Rosie the Riveter (dual wheel) but I also have RB and I like them all.

 

 

The work continues.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Some good progress today with all underside rivet detail complete and just the tailplane upper side and a little on the fuselage to do. The decision to rivet was the correct one.

 

I am now very close to that job of adding some finishing detail which will be mostly Series 1 orientated.  I have been looking forward to that for some years. Sadly, now I have to pack it away for a few days with other matters to attend to.

 

A couple of pics of today's progress:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Series 1 corrections for this old kit - balloon 5 spoke hub wheels, de Havilland prop, anti-shimmy tail wheel, corrected intake for the early version before European dust started to play havoc, and extended cannon barrels (made my own then saw those lovely Master brass items). Will scratch the upper wing root bumps and have already removed the Series 2 bumps on the bottom of the wing and yes, last but not least, those Typhoonesque tail fishplates.

 

What have I missed?  

 

 

 

Edited December 14, 2019 by Ray_W
Error in wording

[Jinxman]

The fine detailing looks very neat - should really stand out with some colour on it.

[Ray_W]

Happy New Year to all and wishing you a great 2020.

 

Back into the Tempest. Spent some time in fitting those final details very much Series 1 orientated - extended barrels, wing root blisters and tail strengthening fishplates.

 

Barrels are Master and they look lovely. 

 

 

I experimented with the strengthening fishplates - decal sheet, masked paint and in the end decided on the old staple - Tamiya tape. I expect these will present some challenges when masking the rear mask for the sky band. I'll make sure I provide a good undercoat over these before masking to try to prevent them lifting when removing the top mask. Needs to be low tack.

 

 

 

Wing root blisters were just some reshaped sprue. The canopy seal is just styrene strip. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Some very nice resin doors were supplied with the Eduard bronze undercarriage legs. So nice, that I soon relegated my scratch built doors (shown top left) to the Ziploc spares bag. 

 

 

 

I was very happy with the Eduard internal door features and riveting and thought this will give some nice detail. But, I also thought the external riveting a little too pronounced for the effect that I was trying to achieve so decided to tone it down a little.

 

I did not want to remove them completely so used Gunze Mr Finishing Surfacer 500 and a quick sand while keeping the interior surfaces untouched.

 

 

 

The final result should paint up nicely preserving subtle depressions hopefully matching the riveting done on the rest of the aircraft.

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Well it has been a long wait to get to this stage. Finally ready for painting ….

 

 

… and base coating in black complete. 

 

 

Nice silky smooth finish. Gunze's Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 shot through the airbrush with Mr Color Levelling Thinner.  Time to leave this now for a good 48 hours before masking the next stage. It's touch dry in minutes but I like leaving it to really set. Just a habit I have got in to.

 

I like the colour. It's not a pure black so I find it a good black for tyres, prop blades etc. besides top coat marbling effects so I tend to hit everything with it.

 

I also like to use it for the invasion stripes. I prefer to not to paint the whole aircraft camo if I can get away from it. Rather, I do the black base coat, mask the stripes and then camo only where seen. Simplified masking. Well if nothing else it saves paint. You can then weather the black as needed. 

 

Whether to use the black base coat for invasion stripes is a case of horses for courses. Although, even this. my 453 Squadron Spit which I am also completing, where I wanted to duplicate the rough finish around the markings, was black first and white last - black base coat, camo, main decals, mask and then the white invasion stripes. Sheesh … masking over decals … not for the faint-hearted!! But by doing this way I only needed to mask where the white was an issue. No decals lifted and I am happy with the result.

 

 

 

 

By the way, the reason for the invasion stripes is that I intend to finish the Tempest as JN765 JF*K. The same aircraft included in the latest Eduard Tempest Series 1 offering although I'll be using the old Aeromaster "Storms" in the Sky" decal set.