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Great work so far Rob and some great reference materials coming out of the color discussions for future builds all very helpful  :book:

 

And I only ever thought that they were all painted grey fascinating stuff 

 

beefy

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4 hours ago, robgizlu said:

The etch on the stack was challenging to say the least - Madness in fact :rant:

 

:hmmm:Some would say you were the man for the job :whistle:

 

Coming together very quickly ....

 

Kev

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I would brighten up those colours if I were you. What's OK on 100 meter ship doesn't always work 12 cm model. The scale effect it's called it think... ;)

Edited by Michael M

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14 minutes ago, Michael M said:

I would brighten up those colours if I were you. What's OK on 100 meter ship doesn't always work 12 cm model. The scale effect it's called it think... ;)

Michael - I'm not sure if you're joking or whether there's not a twinkle in your eye ;)

When I put the Semtex on - I thought B...…… That's a bit garish!  I nearly redid it with a duller colour

I'm not an absolute fan of scale effect and the colours will definitely mute down with a filter and washes.  I've looked at your builds and you've really cracked the wash tones

I'll see how the MS3 contrasts (not a lot I suspect)

Rob

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The point is that if you use lets call them 'original colors' you may end up with dark lump. What will look OK on 1:200 or 1:350 will not be the same on 1:700. Washes will only make it darker again, you have to anticipate that as well. In general if its too bright, darkening isn't really a problem. Unfortunately it doesn't work the other way around.... Contrasts are one thing, general darkness is the other. 

Don't you worry about twinkles, when my eyes are getting red, that's the scene in which you run hahaha ;) 

Edited by Michael M

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20 hours ago, Our Ned said:

 

 

An undated photo showing part of her starboard side (with the same pattern as the photo taken in Malta) is at http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/download/file.php?id=118056&mode=view.

That is me/one of mine:  http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=42436&start=80#p784236

 

The photo is dated 16th November 1942

Edited by dickrd

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10 hours ago, Michael M said:

The point is that if you use lets call them 'original colors' you may end up with dark lump. What will look OK on 1:200 or 1:350 will not be the same on 1:700. Washes will only make it darker again, you have to anticipate that as well. In general if its too bright, darkening isn't really a problem. Unfortunately it doesn't work the other way around.... Contrasts are one thing, general darkness is the other. 

Don't you worry about twinkles, when my eyes are getting red, that's the scene in which you run hahaha ;) 

 

You know it's amusing how different people all advocate different scale effects and suggest polar opposite ways to deal with the perceived problem!

 

As it happens, most agree that as multi-coloured objects are viewed from greater distances, their colours lose their distinction and blend. Indeed many model makers advocate blending colours together or diluting with grey in pursuit of "scale effect".

 

Washes need only darken if using dark washes. Light washes are equally possible and have the opposite effect.

 

This is 1/700 scale and as yet completely unblended with any after effects (which I shall use):

resized_4c156a50-ec11-49d7-83d2-94b34ed1

 

Likewise, this is also 1/700 and uses several of the same shades which Rob is considering. Each to their own etc but in my honest opinion trying to "brighten up" the base shades would be a rather unusual approach.

resized_aef4d4e4-1adf-40d1-91df-e1ecbf9b

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I'm not going to fight that battle with you Jamie. The end result will show 😁 I knew I shouldn't open my mouth hahaha.

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That's a decision you'll need to make for you. Every way has it's advantages and disandvantages... maybe try it out on a testsubject (empy bottle or the like...) 

 

49136891508_d161f1c40c_b.jpg

 

Only thing missing is his radio control...

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So - using the pics suggested by @dickrd I kicked off the hull camo scheme using MS4 (lightest) with MS3 and 507A.  this is how I interpret the Starboard camo pattern

 

49195725781_341167a419_b.jpgDSCF8895 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr

 

The Colourcoats spray SO well :clap2:

The contrast between Ms4 and MS3 is pretty minimal.

The kit scheme would have you do both forward guns in 507A but careful examination of the port view IWM picture confirms that they were in 2 shades virtually divided down the middle.

 

49195922332_c566d40584_b.jpgDSCF8892 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr

 

49195224398_8ff65643de_b.jpgDSCF8891 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr

 

And with some superstructure - she's coming together

 

49195922532_ff905ed0d1_b.jpgDSCF8889 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr

 

49195224433_d7d81e0618_b.jpgDSCF8890 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr

 

The mast is quite nicely done but obviously overscale - I tried out one of the Master masts with somme 0.33mm nickel cross trees.  hopefully the metal will stand up to gently tensioned rigging better?

 

49195725961_c0941c78a5_b.jpgDSCF8893 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr

 

It's definitely feel your way along stuff.

 

I've sprayed up some elements on the fret which should reduce painting chores - anyone else do this?

 

49195922207_0560506d72_b.jpgDSCF8894 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr

 

I fear all the hard parts are drawing near :waiting:

Thanks for looking

Rob

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Very colourful for something the size of a match :hypnotised:

 

Metal in these scales has got to be the way to go . . . .

 

Now come the tiny tiny bits Good luck

 

Kev

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34 minutes ago, robgizlu said:

I've sprayed up some elements on the fret which should reduce painting chores - anyone else do this?

Yes I do and then touch in where you end up chipping bits off after folding this always seams to happen with the smaller bits :hmmm:

 

beefy

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