beefy66 Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Great work so far Rob and some great reference materials coming out of the color discussions for future builds all very helpful And I only ever thought that they were all painted grey fascinating stuff beefy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 great work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 4 hours ago, robgizlu said: The etch on the stack was challenging to say the least - Madness in fact Some would say you were the man for the job Coming together very quickly .... Kev 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael M Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 (edited) I would brighten up those colours if I were you. What's OK on 100 meter ship doesn't always work 12 cm model. The scale effect it's called it think... Edited December 3, 2019 by Michael M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 14 minutes ago, Michael M said: I would brighten up those colours if I were you. What's OK on 100 meter ship doesn't always work 12 cm model. The scale effect it's called it think... Michael - I'm not sure if you're joking or whether there's not a twinkle in your eye When I put the Semtex on - I thought B...…… That's a bit garish! I nearly redid it with a duller colour I'm not an absolute fan of scale effect and the colours will definitely mute down with a filter and washes. I've looked at your builds and you've really cracked the wash tones I'll see how the MS3 contrasts (not a lot I suspect) Rob 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael M Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 (edited) The point is that if you use lets call them 'original colors' you may end up with dark lump. What will look OK on 1:200 or 1:350 will not be the same on 1:700. Washes will only make it darker again, you have to anticipate that as well. In general if its too bright, darkening isn't really a problem. Unfortunately it doesn't work the other way around.... Contrasts are one thing, general darkness is the other. Don't you worry about twinkles, when my eyes are getting red, that's the scene in which you run hahaha Edited December 3, 2019 by Michael M 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickrd Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 (edited) 20 hours ago, Our Ned said: An undated photo showing part of her starboard side (with the same pattern as the photo taken in Malta) is at http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/download/file.php?id=118056&mode=view. That is me/one of mine: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=42436&start=80#p784236 The photo is dated 16th November 1942 Edited December 4, 2019 by dickrd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 10 hours ago, Michael M said: The point is that if you use lets call them 'original colors' you may end up with dark lump. What will look OK on 1:200 or 1:350 will not be the same on 1:700. Washes will only make it darker again, you have to anticipate that as well. In general if its too bright, darkening isn't really a problem. Unfortunately it doesn't work the other way around.... Contrasts are one thing, general darkness is the other. Don't you worry about twinkles, when my eyes are getting red, that's the scene in which you run hahaha You know it's amusing how different people all advocate different scale effects and suggest polar opposite ways to deal with the perceived problem! As it happens, most agree that as multi-coloured objects are viewed from greater distances, their colours lose their distinction and blend. Indeed many model makers advocate blending colours together or diluting with grey in pursuit of "scale effect". Washes need only darken if using dark washes. Light washes are equally possible and have the opposite effect. This is 1/700 scale and as yet completely unblended with any after effects (which I shall use): Likewise, this is also 1/700 and uses several of the same shades which Rob is considering. Each to their own etc but in my honest opinion trying to "brighten up" the base shades would be a rather unusual approach. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael M Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 I'm not going to fight that battle with you Jamie. The end result will show 😁 I knew I shouldn't open my mouth hahaha. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenoz Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 That's a decision you'll need to make for you. Every way has it's advantages and disandvantages... maybe try it out on a testsubject (empy bottle or the like...) Only thing missing is his radio control... 3 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 Ohhh don't Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 9, 2019 Author Share Posted December 9, 2019 So - using the pics suggested by @dickrd I kicked off the hull camo scheme using MS4 (lightest) with MS3 and 507A. this is how I interpret the Starboard camo pattern DSCF8895 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr The Colourcoats spray SO well The contrast between Ms4 and MS3 is pretty minimal. The kit scheme would have you do both forward guns in 507A but careful examination of the port view IWM picture confirms that they were in 2 shades virtually divided down the middle. DSCF8892 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr DSCF8891 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr And with some superstructure - she's coming together DSCF8889 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr DSCF8890 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr The mast is quite nicely done but obviously overscale - I tried out one of the Master masts with somme 0.33mm nickel cross trees. hopefully the metal will stand up to gently tensioned rigging better? DSCF8893 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr It's definitely feel your way along stuff. I've sprayed up some elements on the fret which should reduce painting chores - anyone else do this? DSCF8894 by Rob Matthews, on Flickr I fear all the hard parts are drawing near Thanks for looking Rob 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted December 9, 2019 Share Posted December 9, 2019 Very colourful for something the size of a match Metal in these scales has got to be the way to go . . . . Now come the tiny tiny bits Good luck Kev 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 9, 2019 Share Posted December 9, 2019 34 minutes ago, robgizlu said: I've sprayed up some elements on the fret which should reduce painting chores - anyone else do this? Yes I do and then touch in where you end up chipping bits off after folding this always seams to happen with the smaller bits beefy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 23, 2019 Author Share Posted December 23, 2019 Thanks for looking And Happy Christmas to one and all! Rob 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWS Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 Those are really tiny Oerlikons. Happy Christmas to you Rob. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 🔭 Ah yes now I can see them !! Happy Christmas to you and yours Kev 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 17 hours ago, JohnWS said: Those are really tiny Oerlikons. 10 hours ago, longshanks said: Ah yes now I can see them !! Ah the joy of 700 scale nearly as relaxing as 350 PE beefy Merry Christmas Rob and best wishes for the new year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 On 12/24/2019 at 1:08 AM, JohnWS said: Those are really tiny Oerlikons. Happy Christmas to you Rob. Thanks John - and you are absolutley right - they are miniscule On 12/24/2019 at 8:04 AM, longshanks said: 🔭 Ah yes now I can see them !! Happy Christmas to you and yours Kev Thanks Kev On 12/24/2019 at 6:31 PM, beefy66 said: Ah the joy of 700 scale nearly as relaxing as 350 PE beefy Merry Christmas Rob and best wishes for the new year I'm dreaming about 1/350 Beefy!!! And thanks - With all the Football and Rugby - there have been a few beers. Anfd vital tools for CA Gel Glue placement!!! Accupuncture needles - available on Ebay - these are 0.25 x 40mm. And nearly 90% done..... Final touch up painting and adding the Carley rafts and we are done! And if you hadn't already seen this from Jamie Duff then can I just say if you have any interest in Royal Naval WW2 paint schemes - it's a great buy for £10 - https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/sovereign-hobbies/products/cb3098-1943 A Very Happy new Year to you all. Rob 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Lovely work Rob. With a small pile of 1/700 destroyers , it's nice to see what can be done using a magnifier. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Fantastic crisp and clean modelling Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWS Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Nice looking build, Rob. Great detail for its size. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Great work Rob and with rigging well impressed and is that another build in the background in the photo with the acupuncture needles beefy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Ned Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 A neat build - thank you for your postings. Whilst the kit has many good points and seems reasonably accurate in most areas, there are some details which IBG appear to have omitted, that you might wish to consider: The kit's bridge is almost devoid of fittings, apart from the director and rangefinder (Parts G9 and G22); in fact there were compasses, sights and other items here. All the photos of the ship which I have seen, eg https://www.flickr.com/photos/ww2images/6854959786, showed splinter shields at the deck edge outboard of "A" and "Y" mountings. All the photos of the ship which I have seen also showed TSDS winches outboard of the after shelter deck where the instructions show two depth charge loading racks should be fitted (Parts G25, PE29 and PE30) - also (just) visible in the above photo. ITHURIEL's ready-use depth charges were stowed on their arbors, and are represented by Parts A8 and G24. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 13 hours ago, beefy66 said: Great work Rob and with rigging well impressed and is that another build in the background in the photo with the acupuncture needles beefy Well spotted Beefy! I'm limbering up for this.... 2 hours ago, Our Ned said: A neat build - thank you for your postings. Whilst the kit has many good points and seems reasonably accurate in most areas, there are some details which IBG appear to have omitted, that you might wish to consider: The kit's bridge is almost devoid of fittings, apart from the director and rangefinder (Parts G9 and G22); in fact there were compasses, sights and other items here. All the photos of the ship which I have seen, eg https://www.flickr.com/photos/ww2images/6854959786, showed splinter shields at the deck edge outboard of "A" and "Y" mountings. All the photos of the ship which I have seen also showed TSDS winches outboard of the after shelter deck where the instructions show two depth charge loading racks should be fitted (Parts G25, PE29 and PE30) - also (just) visible in the above photo. ITHURIEL's ready-use depth charges were stowed on their arbors, and are represented by Parts A8 and G24. Thanks Ned - That's helpful. I completely get the bridge issue. I've just gone through Starling, White Ensign, Sovereign and L'arsenal and can't source any "Bridge fittings". Do you know of any? People scratch them?. The splinter shields are available and I'll get some. I appreciate the winches issue - too late to change now but if i buid Glowworm - I'll try to see about that. In many ways this was a atrial "proof of concept" build for me - Was it do-able and enjoyable ? The answer to both being yes. Rob 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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