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Desert B-25 1/72


rob85

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19 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Thanks... Ive been eyeing it up for awhile particularly the C/D version, as I want to do a “Pappy” Gunn strafer. 

Cool, I really like the strafer, especially the field modded ones! Any particular on in mind? 

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Oh and the below little jobs were done last night...

 

just more paint on the undersides, painting of the little bits left to go on. Next will be polish and possibly gloss before decals.

 

uy0jnlU.jpg

TuwyGX3.jpg

those two are for Chris  @dogsbody just so you know it’s there, I’ve seen your feedback in other threads 😃 I’ll also make sure to tag you when I paint a Bristol aircrafts engine gear casing! Alway informative 👍🏻.

 

Rob

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5 hours ago, rob85 said:

Cool, I really like the strafer, especially the field modded ones! Any particular on in mind? 

If i can find decals for them or get them made, Im looking at either “Pappy’s” plane “Pappy’s Folly” or “Margaret” i have good photo’s of each nose-art. I also have a complete listing of all of the tail numbers in the original modded aircraft. 

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3 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

If i can find decals for them or get them made, Im looking at either “Pappy’s” plane “Pappy’s Folly” or “Margaret” i have good photo’s of each nose-art. I also have a complete listing of all of the tail numbers in the original modded aircraft. 

I like the look of pappy’s folly, let me know if you sort out any nose art 😃

3 hours ago, giemme said:

Agreed 100%, as smooth as any airbrush finish! :worthy: 

 

Ciao

5 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

Wow Rob, you've managed a perfect finish there, many leesons learned from your techniques on this build, thank you sir!

 

5 hours ago, dogsbody said:

That's looking great! And all brush painted, too.

 

 

 

Chris

Cheers all but far too kind, I am proud of the finish achieved but it’s got room for improvement as I can see areas where there’s slightly thicker paint a bits that needed better prep. Thank you though!

 

Rob

 

p.s. I really hope I don’t screw it up with the next stages!!

Edited by rob85
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Well you can count me in!

 

so some more work done, and as you can see at the end I’m not happy.

 

first off some light panel wash first thing this morning 

 

pUaZaaX.jpg

went down rather nicely. Then a gloss cote!

 

xHVhjku.jpg

that’s two cotes then left it to dry. After that I started to take the mask of... I will not buy vinyl masks again

 

UkYIumZ.jpg

first one got me worried 

 

AtItSQ8.jpg

then the top masking is off and there is still this sticky residue all over it, it’s just not crisp, I wouldn’t have minded if it was just seepage from paint I can clear that up with a tooth pick!

 

and to add insult to injury the upper nose glazing came off with the mask! They are really sticky and are a real pain to remove. 
 

PbmrsAP.jpg

front nose glazing

 

Z9Pbk8r.jpgand upper nose, probably came out the best.

 

I’m gutted... any tips on how to clear the sticky marks?? 
 

Rob

 

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Argh, sorry to see that Rob :( 

 

I would try IPA, on a small cotton bud in the middle (worth investing in some Tamiya ones as you’ve come this far - pointy ones) and on a toothpick (chewed if required) at the edges to avoid taking off the paint.

 

Carefully does it - you don’t want to spoil that lovely paint job. 

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Similar as above: I use Tamiya acryllic thinner X-20 for cleaning clear parts for my diecasts with a cotton swab or a cocktail stick and sometimes just car polish on a cotton bud, when the paint has dried; but not longer than 24h.

Cheers

Edited by bbudde
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I agree with the above comments. I'll just add that, once cleaned, you should go over the clear parts with your preferred gloss medium: Klear/Future or Alclad Aqua Gloss, ideally.

 

Ciao

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16 minutes ago, rob85 said:

o IPA to get the sticky stuff off then gloss?

Yes! And if not Aqua Gloss then Johnsons' clear/future or Erdal Glänzer or any floorwax, I guess. Your choice, For me, I would like to use that Aqua Gloss anyway for a try. So as above.

Edited by bbudde
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1 hour ago, giemme said:

I agree with the above comments. I'll just add that, once cleaned, you should go over the clear parts with your preferred gloss medium: Klear/Future or Alclad Aqua Gloss, ideally.

 

Ciao

 

7 minutes ago, bbudde said:

Yes! And if not Aqua Gloss then Johnsons' clear/future or Erdal Glänzer or any floorwax, I guess. Your choice, For me, I would like to use that Aqua Gloss anyway for a try. So as above.

Sorry just to check, are we talking Alclad II Aqua gloss??

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15 minutes ago, rob85 said:

are we talking Alclad II Aqua gloss??

Yes I guess, but ask Ced. He uses it,  I think. I have not used it so far, but I am very satisfied with my Erdal Glänzer for dipping things into it. Not sure for trying it that with a (air)brush. Maybe Aqua Gloss is better and finer then:shrug:

Cheers

Edited by bbudde
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33 minutes ago, rob85 said:

Sorry just to check, are we talking Alclad II Aqua gloss??

Yep, that's the stuff. 

 

It's great for canopy finishing - any little scratches get filled and it shines!

I don't dip at the start (as some do) 'cos I've had problems with tape residue sticking to it.

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26 minutes ago, bbudde said:

Yes I guess, but ask Ced. He uses it,  I think. I have not used it so far, but I am very satisfied with my Erdal Glänzer for dipping things into it. Not sure for trying it that with a (air)brush. Maybe Aqua Gloss is better and finer then:shrug:

Cheers

 

1 minute ago, CedB said:

Yep, that's the stuff. 

 

It's great for canopy finishing - any little scratches get filled and it shines!

I don't dip at the start (as some do) 'cos I've had problems with tape residue sticking to it.

Cheers both, I little bottle has been ordered! 

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That's the stuff, as Ced says. And I'm so glad he pointed me to that, because I only had postive results with it, even with dipping clear parts in it. :thumbsup:

 

One major plus is that you can re-apply it by brush on limited  areas of your transparency and it blends in and self levels perfectly

 

Ciao

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1 hour ago, giemme said:

That's the stuff, as Ced says. And I'm so glad he pointed me to that, because I only had postive results with it, even with dipping clear parts in it. :thumbsup:

 

One major plus is that you can re-apply it by brush on limited  areas of your transparency and it blends in and self levels perfectly

 

Ciao

This is music to my ears! IPA has been applied with tooth picks, it’s cleaned it up a bit but think I need them cotton bud thingys to clear the gunk that’s been dissolved by the IPA.... only issue is it smells like hops and has a brown tinge to it now....

 

more work to be done!

 

Rob 

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Good news!

 

'Standard' cotton buds are great for general work but, when you need to get precise or want that 'special' finish, the Tamiya ones are much better - they're harder (for scrubbing) and soak up stuff really well. They seem reasonably priced here but, if you want to try some, PM me and I'll stick some in the post :) 

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2 hours ago, rob85 said:

dissolved by the IPA.... only issue is it smells like hops and has a brown tinge to it now....

I see what you did there.

 

I've been dissolved by IPA meself, but my current solvents tend toward lagers.  😏

 

On a more serious note, use caution cleaning with alcohol around Tamiya paintwork.  Alcohol lifts Tamiya paint very easily even after curing, even when I've used cellulose thinners to reduce the paint for spraying.

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Thanks all for the hints and tips, all very helpful!

 

@CedB I managed to pick up a good set of shaped cotton buds while in Cardiff today (I had to go have lessons on how to product handle, colour manage and outfit build as I look after a Womenswear department for a very well know high street brand. It was actually rather helpful which cannot be said for all training!) but thank you for the offer of sending some.

 

so this is where we are at, last night was using toothpicks dipped in IPA and this loosed the the gunk. Tonight was re applying IPA and trying to wipe clean with cotton buds. I’m actually rather happy with how this has gone.

 

sV72ETM.jpg

 

IIwNt8P.jpg

 

Bq4iI3l.jpg

there has been paint rubbed away but nothing that can’t be touched up after I’ve given it another clean and cote of aqua gloss once it’s arrived. I think it will be ok!

 

Rob

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