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11 hours ago, Bullbasket said:

....and that's why I don't do interiors. It's not like a cockpit where everything can be seen. But, that said, you've made a great job of it Darryl.

 

John.

 

 

8 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

Hi Darryl,

as the mates comment, it is a pity that almost nothing can be seen later, but the work done is certainly good, and what you see will give a touch of quality to the model ...:popcorn:

Cheers Darryl 👍

 

8 hours ago, robgizlu said:

But...….you know it's there!

Looking good

Rob

Thanks chaps, not being entirely sure how much would be visible once assembled and planning on having the doors open I thought I'd give it a once over. Just between you and I it actually looks better in the photos than in reality, but don't tell anyone!

 

Already managed to knock off a seat back and the interior light in the last 12hrs!  I suppose it wouldn't be beyond someone to remake the seat frame out of wire dispensing with the fragile nature of the kit supplied ones.

 

Or just be less clumsy...

 

Cheers 

Darryl 

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9 hours ago, Roger Newsome said:

Looking good Darryl. Glad I'm able to see some photos at last, it's been worth the wait.

This is a bit odd though. I've not commented since I've been at sea, nor posted any wip photos of what I'm working on, because  the pictures aren't showing in the thread and I can't access flikr to upload my own. Because I'm following your Otter build I get an email notification and I can see the photos in the email. 

Roger. 

 

Hi Roger, thought you'd been quiet, not that I was waiting to see how your masking experiment had worked....:whistle:

 

Not being a computer person I've no idea, could it be the notification email has the picture in it whilst the forum only has links to the picture hosting site??

 

(Keep in mind I've no idea and could be/probably will be talking bull...)

 

Thanks for looking in.

 

Cheers 

Darryl 

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8 hours ago, Das Abteilung said:

Interior looking good.  Like Bullbasket I don't favour interiors - in fact I avoid them and open-top vehicles like the plague! - but Otters were most commonly seen with the large side doors open and there's nowhere to hide a big empty void.

 

You've got a Bren spare barrel on the left side which would be gun-coloured with wooden handle.  I wonder what the round objects on the floor along the left edge are meant to be?  Too small for 100rd Bren drums, too large for 4" smoke bomb tubes.  Probably meant to be the latter, in which case mid brown.

 

On the subject of Brens, I'm struggling to see any magazine stowage in the kit.  I think the object above and behind the radio is supposed to be a full rack of Bren mags but doesn't look much like one.  Likewise I think the object on the left side behind the door is supposed to be an empty Bren mag rack.  There would possibly be boxes of Bren mags and probably boxes of loose .303 stowed inside.  Panzer Art do Bren mag boxes and wood and steel 303 boxes.  Add On Parts do Boys mag boxes if you plan to mount the Boys rifle.  But again, how much of that would be seen inside  for an outlay of probably £20+?

That was the problem,  most pics showed open side doors so..

 

Thanks for pointing out the various bits and pieces,  I hadn't realised it was a spare barrel (thought it had a passing resemblance to a jack). Might be a bit late now as I've just fitted the opposite sidewall, I'll see how much is visible through the open door. There is a variety of parts that I've no idea about, I miss some of the instructions that would point out what was what, some colour call outs wouldn't go amiss either.

 

I suspect you could add quite a bit of kit inside and some external stowage. However I think £20 is probably a bit steep for what I have in mind, thanks for the suggestion all the same.

 

Now just need to see how all the external panels line up.

 

Thanks again

Darryl 

 

 

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37 minutes ago, Jasper dog said:

Hi Roger, thought you'd been quiet, not that I was waiting to see how your masking experiment had worked....:whistle:

 

Not being a computer person I've no idea, could it be the notification email has the picture in it whilst the forum only has links to the picture hosting site??

 

(Keep in mind I've no idea and could be/probably will be talking bull...)

 

Thanks for looking in.

 

Cheers 

Darryl 

I've no idea either Darryl, at least I can see what your up to. 😁 You'll have to wait till after Christmas, 27th-ish, to see my efforts.

Roger. 

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Roger you little tease.....

 

I'd been hoping to see how you got on with hard edge camo on you littleJapaneseType 95, planning on trying a hard edge camo on the Otter and hoping to avoid an awkward masking job.

 

Have a good trip.

Darryl 

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Puts me in mind of a cut and shut Ford Capri after wrapping it around a tree!

 

Enough of excuses, the sides of the body mated with the floor without any issues, possibly putting me off guard. It was only when I came to fit the top panels that I realised an alignment issue somewhere....

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After a bit of fettling and starting again with the back panels I found it best to start from the top and work down. I initially tried starting from the bottom and working up but by the time it reached the roof the mismatch was almost a trip hazard. 

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Still not perfect, see gap between roof and upper back panel. The other tricky bit is the turret and its basket, like a lot of the rest it's rather fragile. Dont want to cement it in position but might yet have to, just to stop it rattling around and falling apart!

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Now to the front, so far so good.

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Oooops, dash and blast, gluey print!

Another iffy joint on n/s/f corner of roof and side panel.

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Bonnet on, fit not great but best I could do, needed to put a blue tac stopper beneath bonnet to give a little something to press against.

Should be able to fit the Boys A/T rifle once completed and painted.

Couple of pieces of tape to hold turret in situ.

The slats for the radiator grill seam to be a shade to narrow, only by a hairs breadth but enough to bit awkward. 

Assembled and painted chassis ready to go once body painted and finished, just needs weathering. 

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Whilst some of the joints dont look to bad in the pics, most would benefit from a smear of Vallejo filler and a damp cotton bud. Dont want to risk anything as harsh as sanding if I can help. (Fragile seats, turret and of course dust).

 

Should point out I suspect most of the issues are my doing rather than the kit. Yes definite locating points would have been handy but think I made a mistake somewhere mating the floor to the sides and not getting everything aligned just so.

 

Thanks for looking.

Darryl

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Thanks Rob, it's just a slow build after saying that it this hobby isn't generally a race. Sometimes it's nice to build something from Tamiya that almost falls together whilst the challenge (to me at least,) of something like this can be rewarding in its own way.

 

Cheers

Darryl 

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Hi Darryl,
It is a headache those "mistakes" that we make involuntarily in the assembly, because "they face", much later, when the damage is greater ... curse.
In spite of everything, it seems that in the end it will look pretty good ...

Cheers mate :santa:

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Thanks Francis, I shall press on, sure with a bit of luck it'll turn out fine....:whistle:

 

Cheers

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A late Merry Christmas to all!

 

After hoping to have had plenty of time to play with the plastic over Christmas very little has happened alas.

 

Iffy seams filled with Vallejo putty.

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Excess removed with a damp cotton bud and against my earlier idea wheel arches added.

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Doors, hatches etc fitted, secured with clear fix, this way I can easily remove once painted.

 

The original idea had been to paint without wheel arches making for an easier masking job, however. The chances of matching up the paint (faded) and the demarcation lines in the camo (hard edge) without resorting to a brush I decided was a touch optimistic. 

Therefore I've added the arches and storage boxes but left off all the smaller delicate bits, footstep etc until paintwork done.

 

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Otter in primer, looking better already!

 

Next job base colour,  think I'm going scc2 first, mask, followed by light mud.

 

Happy new year everyone, all the best for 2020.

 

Thanks for looking.

Darryl 

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Quick paintjob with Scc2 and lightened versions of.

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Once fully dry will attempt to mask and apply camouflage.

Ordered some masking putty, there illustrations show a hard edge achieved so will give it a shot.

 

Cheers

Darryl 

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That's looking very nice Darryl.

Looking forward to seeing how you get on with the putty as I bought some and haven't used it yet. 

Roger. 

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Hi Darryl,

after a "hard road" with putty-filled gaps, and
glue spots, with its layer primer, and already with its base color, somewhat modulated, has changed a lot (for the better), without a doubt.
I think it will look great ...🍿

Cheers mate :xmasparty:

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17 hours ago, Roger Newsome said:

That's looking very nice Darryl.

Looking forward to seeing how you get on with the putty as I bought some and haven't used it yet. 

Roger. 

Thanks Roger, was going to try with masking tape but really....... 

 

I'd assumed it would be similar to blue tac, fine for soft /feathered edge but going off the illustrations on the web site it appears to do what I want so will have to try. 

 

Cheers, all the best for 2020.

 

14 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

Hi Darryl,

after a "hard road" with putty-filled gaps, and
glue spots, with its layer primer, and already with its base color, somewhat modulated, has changed a lot (for the better), without a doubt.
I think it will look great ...🍿

Cheers mate :xmasparty:

Thanks Francis, any of the "iffy" joins I think could be hidden under a tarp or similar if necessary. 

 

Now it's progressed a little, over the modelling hump, starting to look like what it should I've a little more confidence in the outcome. 🤞

 

Cheers and all the best for 2020.

 

 

My next issue is going to be the contrast between the Scc2 and the light mud. Going off b&w pics the contrast looks quite stark, both Vallejo and AK light mud looks closer in tone to Scc2 than I'd hoped. Will try them both on a little scrap and see how they look.

 

Darryl

 

 

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Camo masking putty has arrived!

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And some weathering pencils too.

 

Masking putty couldn't have been easier to use, comes as large squishy blob just needs kneading to soften, tear bits off and away you go.....

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With hindsight might be best to use smaller bits next time, gravity takes hold and the piece over o/s/r wheel arch started to sag over time. (Probably because half of it wasn't hanging onto any bodywork).

 

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Painting done, Vallejo Light Mud. Again with hindsight probably shouldn't have played around with the SCC2 as the finish of light mud doesn't match that of the faded SCC2 however sure with a bit of tweaking it'll come together. 

 

The putty went on no problem and was quite malleable when it came to creating the shapes I wanted. As it is self levelling, for want of a better phrase, it provides a hard edge finish, unlike bluetac for example. 

 

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The putty came away from the model with no problems at all, peeled away even when placed over the shackle and tow hook.

 

Once it's off, roll it all together and it returns to its previous state, brilliant!

 

Once fully dry gloss coat and decals before further weathering and blending.

 

Cheers

Darryl 

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The putty worked well Darryl, that looks very nice.

Hope my putty works as well as that 'cause being a cheapskate I bought the budget version. 🤣 Time will tell. 

One tip though don't store it upside down or on it's side. The self levelling effect you describe allows it to seep under the lid and it's a  devil to open. Most normal people wouldn't think of leaving it any other way than flat on the bottom but mine was in my bag on a packed train.😄

Roger. 

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Hi Rodger

 

Good point, about the storage, I've left it in its inner bag anyway but worth keeping in mind.

 

Sure with a practice/experience more intricate shapes could be achieved, found it helpful to push it around with a brush handle. Could even be used for masking out wheel hubs too I suspect....

 

I thought, less than £10, can't really complain.

 

You would imagine they'd all do the same thing, pretty much, good luck.

 

Darryl

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Jasper dog said:

I've left it in its inner bag anyway but worth keeping in mind.

Inner bag? I need to get one of those. 😄

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Yep, inner plastic bag! 

 

That's what I pay the big bucks for!:winkgrin:

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12 hours ago, Jasper dog said:

Once it's off, roll it all together and it returns to its previous state, brilliant!

That was going to be my question as I've never used this material. So you just knead it all together again after use, paint and all. Does the old paint not affect it in any way?

 

John.

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Hi Darryl,

the result with the putty looks very good, I have a box of putty but MIG, and it is like "frozen", that is to say in a single piece, with rather hard texture, I imagine that by the cold, and when you take it a piece, it seems that it is better to "warm it up" a little with your fingers before applying it ...
I have tried it but not very seriously, and as it is the 1st time, I did not very well what I did, so I do not know "to blame" ... lol

Cheers Darryl 👍

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10 hours ago, Bullbasket said:

That was going to be my question as I've never used this material. So you just knead it all together again after use, paint and all. Does the old paint not affect it in any way?

 

John.

Hi John

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First pic is how it looks after being sprayed over, very very slight specs/flecks of paint but mostly all disappears. That's been in the plastic bag over night, goes a bit stiff in the cold of the garage, few seconds in the hand to soften and it's ready to go.

 

Haven't tried painting over it again but I can see no reason why it should be an issue, as of yet obviously. If it's been sprayed over 20-30-40 times etc I couldn't say yet, but worth a punt!

 

Tried masking the wheels, didn't get very far before out for the day.....spacer.png

 

Didn't think of gravity!🤣  (no probs, lifts from paper as it does plastic).

Cheers

 

 

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9 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

Hi Darryl,

the result with the putty looks very good, I have a box of putty but MIG, and it is like "frozen", that is to say in a single piece, with rather hard texture, I imagine that by the cold, and when you take it a piece, it seems that it is better to "warm it up" a little with your fingers before applying it ...
I have tried it but not very seriously, and as it is the 1st time, I did not very well what I did, so I do not know "to blame" ... lol

Cheers Darryl 👍

Hi Francis,  if it's like this stuff it does go stiff, roll it around to warm it up and you're good to go, tear bits off etc.

 

I do like the self levelling aspect of it, good for giving a hard edge. Might take a little practice but I only spent a few minutes playing with it before trying on the Otter so I suspect more intricate shapes could be achieved. 

 

Cheers

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Gloss coat on, halfords rattle can as per usual. 

Followed once dry by decals, all of which went down perfectly, never had a decal release so quickly though! Splash of Microsol, probably didn't need it but habit. 

 

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Don't you hate dropping a model, mid gloss coat to seal in decals it fell. Thankfully not far, only from the tamiya stand i was holding into the box lid beneath 10-12" however it now rattles. Haven't been brave enough to open it up to check but I suspect the fragile turret cage might have come adrift, if so doubt I'll be able to resecure it without removing the roof....(No,  I won't be taking the roof off again, if curious).

 

And then...

 

Just about to start a little weathering, going old school, tamiya smoke and buff in relevant places. However the airbrush starts playing up, stripped and cleaned several times, no joy so replacing nozzle. (Did something like this a year last Nov and replaced nozzle then so fingers crossed). 

 

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New nozzle (0.35) arrived, compare the tips, top one new (obviously)!

Whilst it's an iwata airbrush (neo) apparently Sparmax is the same just cheaper.

 

Apparently these things come in threes......

 

Cheers

Darryl 

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