Andy350 Posted December 1, 2019 Author Share Posted December 1, 2019 (edited) Due to me sorting out the tracks I've knocked some of the PE parts off, what is the best glue for PE? Thanks? Edited December 1, 2019 by Andy350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 Hi, I don't know if I expressed myself badly, when I said "vinyl", I meant "flexible" (rubber?), And if there are spare parts for many models, this, specifically, is a bit weird and not very popular, but I don't strange that even the tracks of a Matilda would serve it ... Cheers Andy 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris B Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 (edited) Andy Having a slightly longer track made using single links happens to me quite a lot. It's just now happened on the Tamiya Archer I'm making.when I've had to shorten a link and try and find somewhere where it will not be obvious. If you'e lucky with the type of AFV it can be hidden behind a track guard or skirt. It the gap is say half a link I might very slightly shorten up to half a dozen individual links. Another possibility if the gap is small is to remove a section of the top or bottom run, brush on some mek, leave for 10 or so minutes and it's sometimes possible to very slightly stretch the spacing between the links. Edited December 1, 2019 by Chris B word change 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 1, 2019 Author Share Posted December 1, 2019 15 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi, I don't know if I expressed myself badly, when I said "vinyl", I meant "flexible" (rubber?), And if there are spare parts for many models, this, specifically, is a bit weird and not very popular, but I don't strange that even the tracks of a Matilda would serve it ... Cheers Andy 👍 Thanks Francis, I will carry on and assemble and fit the other side, another lesson learnt on this build. I have another tank build which looks to use tracks that link together and give a more natural sag, so hopefully this is a bit less fidley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 24 minutes ago, Andy350 said: Due to me sorting out the tracks I've knocked some of the PE parts off, what is the best glue for PE? Thanks? Hi, I have seen this, I bought a jar a few days ago, I do not know if it will be as good as they say, but it looks good ... https://www.migjimenez.com/en/accessories/1935-ultra-glue-for-etch-clear-parts-more-.html Cheers Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 1, 2019 Author Share Posted December 1, 2019 3 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi, I have seen this, I bought a jar a few days ago, I do not know if it will be as good as they say, but it looks good ... https://www.migjimenez.com/en/accessories/1935-ultra-glue-for-etch-clear-parts-more-.html Cheers Andy Thanks Francis, I will pick some up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 Second side...relax and breath. This time I left the section a lot longer to set. finding that time is crucial to being able to bend and not fall apart. I laid the complete section on the mat and glued this bit first, after 10 mins I used to small rule to bend the two end section before dropping down the top long section and joining. This method was about 10x quicker and with a better result. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 Who needs the correct tools when you have a blade and metal ruler 👍 Picking up some glue for the PE, then prime and paint. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 Aye up Andy, Nice save on the track. I always have trouble with one side of indy links then the other side goes on easier. The law of sod no doubt! Look forward to seeing more progress. Regards, Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 Hi, I see that this one has been better for you, in my opinion, and it is that practice makes perfect, as Steve comments, it also happens to me the same, and that is that each track has its method and complexity, in addition to the way address the problem personally ... I like how it looked .. Cheers Andy 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 23 minutes ago, fatfingers said: Aye up Andy, Nice save on the track. I always have trouble with one side of indy links then the other side goes on easier. The law of sod no doubt! Look forward to seeing more progress. Regards, Steve It was very touch and go. Cheers Steve. I might stay away from this style it I can in the future. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 8 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi, I see that this one has been better for you, in my opinion, and it is that practice makes perfect, as Steve comments, it also happens to me the same, and that is that each track has its method and complexity, in addition to the way address the problem personally ... I like how it looked .. Cheers Andy 👍 Yes, completely different to the previous side. Letting the glue set a bit more made all the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 I'm hoping these look better when dry, painted and weathered. They were very very difficult to fit, and I've got four to go. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 Ps the one on the back has just fallen off. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 Pe done, doesn't look very good I know, some of the parts would sit right on the rivets, in some of the places I just removed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 Ready for primer and painting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenoz Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 What kind of glue did you use to fix this? Otherwise a nice build. Also feels like these are upside down (recesses I think are supposed to be pushed through to the other side to make some raised detail) What I tend to do with such brackets is using two kinds of superglue, gel and thin. I do a bit (a drop from both, stays usable for approx 20-30minutes)on some aluminium foil, and from there with a wire I take some gel and apply this to the horizontal surface of the PE part. Then I align the part with the sidewall and move it down vertically till it is fixed to the fender. Next I use a thin wire (0.1mm) and take some of the thin superglue (doesn't have to be much) and strike it against the connecting borders for final fixation. Repeat with the wire till all is set (seems like for strokes for 1 bracket). Why like this? Due to the tiny amounts, the glue sets faster, and you have almost no cleaning up to do afterwards... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 14 minutes ago, Silenoz said: What kind of glue did you use to fix this? Otherwise a nice build. Also feels like these are upside down (recesses I think are supposed to be pushed through to the other side to make some raised detail) What I tend to do with such brackets is using two kinds of superglue, gel and thin. I do a bit (a drop from both, stays usable for approx 20-30minutes)on some aluminium foil, and from there with a wire I take some gel and apply this to the horizontal surface of the PE part. Then I align the part with the sidewall and move it down vertically till it is fixed to the fender. Next I use a thin wire (0.1mm) and take some of the thin superglue (doesn't have to be much) and strike it against the connecting borders for final fixation. Repeat with the wire till all is set (seems like for strokes for 1 bracket). Why like this? Due to the tiny amounts, the glue sets faster, and you have almost no cleaning up to do afterwards... Thanks for the advice Silenoz, I followed the instructions as best I could, from some of the pics of the other builds it looks similar. I was using mig ammo ultra glue. It's a strange glue, not very sticky but does set hard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Hi Andy, I see that you have progressed a lot, and that you have used the Ultra-Glue, with good results ?, I have not tried it yet ... A little tip, if you let me, some PEs seem to have traces of glue, or maybe, it's the primer. It happens to me, and when you take close photos, you can see ... Maybe before continuing with the paint, you can sand to make it look cleaner. Good progress ...🍿 Cheers Andy 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 43 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi Andy, I see that you have progressed a lot, and that you have used the Ultra-Glue, with good results ?, I have not tried it yet ... A little tip, if you let me, some PEs seem to have traces of glue, or maybe, it's the primer. It happens to me, and when you take close photos, you can see ... Maybe before continuing with the paint, you can sand to make it look cleaner. Good progress ...🍿 Cheers Andy 👍 Thanks Francis, I take your point. Next time I will make it look a bit better. painting does hide some of the issues as well, which is lucky. I need to paint the tracks a darker colour and then gloss before apply decals, before weathering a little. Exhaust not fitted yet. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 is it usually at least 12 hours before applying the gloss to the decal areas?? 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Hi Andy, You got a very good color, IMHO. As a general rule, the layers of paint that we apply should be very dry, since any subsequent work on them, without a consistent grip, will undoubtedly give problems. Each paint (acrylic, enamel, etc ...) and different brand, has a minimum drying time, and depending on the ambient temperature and relative humidity of place, will influence. To complicate everything a little more, there are products that should not be mixed (too many to remember), because they dilute what was already underneath. In short, rush is not a good travel companion in modeling. If you think you should wait some more time, patience, maybe you can continue with other parts of the pending kit, to take advantage of the time. Cheers Andy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 6 minutes ago, FrancisGL said: Hi Andy, You got a very good color, IMHO. As a general rule, the layers of paint that we apply should be very dry, since any subsequent work on them, without a consistent grip, will undoubtedly give problems. Each paint (acrylic, enamel, etc ...) and different brand, has a minimum drying time, and depending on the ambient temperature and relative humidity of place, will influence. To complicate everything a little more, there are products that should not be mixed (too many to remember), because they dilute what was already underneath. In short, rush is not a good travel companion in modeling. If you think you should wait some more time, patience, maybe you can continue with other parts of the pending kit, to take advantage of the time. Cheers Andy. Cheers, I quite like the colour too. I will leave this for now just to make sure the paint has cured. I've started a 1991 Series III Land rover from the Gulf War so that will keep me going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris B Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Andy I always leave paint at least 24 hours before either glossing for decals or more usually applying a coat of my old bottle of 'future' (a type of acrylic floor polish that alas is no longer available under that name) to the decal area. As regards applying superglue I've a large (cheap) pack of 1.5 inch long pins that have a small plastic ball on the blunt end that I use instead of wire. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy350 Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 I did try and replicate some sand effect the best I could. The weathering mags I have are very good but I don't think I've got the skills just yet to attempt them. I've used some rust effect and now finished off with the Flory models dark dirt. Flory seems to be easier for me because I can start again if it looks terrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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