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HobbyBoss Vickers Tank MK1 1/35


Andy350

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  • 2 weeks later...

Aye up Andy,

 

I built the MkII* version last year. Nice kit. The running gear is very fiddly but looks good when done. The indie tracks were proper scary so i used the rubber tracks from the Tamiya Matilda kit. If i recall they fitted without having to nip any links off and they look ok. Really need to finish it off as its currently in weathering limbo....

 

Look forward to seeing what you do with yours.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

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3 minutes ago, fatfingers said:

Aye up Andy,

 

I built the MkII* version last year. Nice kit. The running gear is very fiddly but looks good when done. The indie tracks were proper scary so i used the rubber tracks from the Tamiya Matilda kit. If i recall they fitted without having to nip any links off and they look ok. Really need to finish it off as its currently in weathering limbo....

 

Look forward to seeing what you do with yours.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Hi Steve,

 

Excellent someone else has built this.  I'm currently at this stage.....

 

49136888588_23de5ec330.jpg

 

I thought it was a bit that that the parts that support the tracks are not in alignment, seems to be the way it is in the pictures.  Can I ask how you did the painting, did you, build and then prime and paint at the end, or primed and painted and glued from sections?

 

Looking forward to seeing yours, was there a work in progress for you build?

 

Cheers

Andy

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11 minutes ago, Andy350 said:

Hi Steve,

 

Excellent someone else has built this.  I'm currently at this stage.....

 

Can I ask how you did the painting, did you, build and then prime and paint at the end, or primed and painted and glued from sections?

 

Looking forward to seeing yours, was there a work in progress for you build?

 

Cheers

Andy

Aye up Andy.

 

No WIP unfortunately. As regards the painting - I completed the build then primed and painted the kit complete with tracks on. I really do need to finish it! Nice work with the funning gear. Be wary when fitting the drive sprokets as i found them VERY fiddly and six pairs of hands are needed! If i recall it was quite a fragile sub assembly too unless it was due to my ham fists and fatfingers! 

 

Regards,

 

Steve

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20 minutes ago, fatfingers said:

Aye up Andy.

 

No WIP unfortunately. As regards the painting - I completed the build then primed and painted the kit complete with tracks on. I really do need to finish it! Nice work with the funning gear. Be wary when fitting the drive sprokets as i found them VERY fiddly and six pairs of hands are needed! If i recall it was quite a fragile sub assembly too unless it was due to my ham fists and fatfingers! 

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Great thanks Steve, I was going to weather the tracks before fitting, but I don't think this will be possible with this kit.  No, I'm the same, I have to be extra careful when building as I am very clumsy. 

 

Did you airbrush or brush paint?

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That looks to be coming along nicely.  I made both a Mk1 and  mk2 a couple of years ago when they first came out.  I remember finding a few things a it fiddly including working out the exact angle on the etch bits that  fit over the top run of the tracks at the front . Looking at Google pics  helped.

 

I thought the tracks looked a pain and left them until late in the build. When it came to it they were  not too bad using my usual method of using mek to join several pairs of links against a straight edge, leaving them for 5 minutes, join the pairs into 4s, leaving for 5 minutes, 4s into 8s and so on until I had the required length.  Then a light brush of mek along the length, leave for 10 - 15 minutes and then whilst together but still bendable, onto the model. 

 

I painted the tracks when on using a fine brush having airbrushed the rest of the model

 

If you're going to use etch again I'd strongly recommend a tool such as 'hold and fold' (other makes are available). Not cheap but it'll probably last forever and has made working with etch much easier.

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27 minutes ago, Chris B said:

That looks to be coming along nicely.  I made both a Mk1 and  mk2 a couple of years ago when they first came out.  I remember finding a few things a it fiddly including working out the exact angle on the etch bits that  fit over the top run of the tracks at the front . Looking at Google pics  helped.

 

I thought the tracks looked a pain and left them until late in the build. When it came to it they were  not too bad using my usual method of using mek to join several pairs of links against a straight edge, leaving them for 5 minutes, join the pairs into 4s, leaving for 5 minutes, 4s into 8s and so on until I had the required length.  Then a light brush of mek along the length, leave for 10 - 15 minutes and then whilst together but still bendable, onto the model. 

 

I painted the tracks when on using a fine brush having airbrushed the rest of the model

 

If you're going to use etch again I'd strongly recommend a tool such as 'hold and fold' (other makes are available). Not cheap but it'll probably last forever and has made working with etch much easier.

Thanks for the advice Chris.  The info about the tracks was very useful as this was something that I was really going to struggle with.  I'm not sure what mek is?

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Yes that's the sort of tool that makes folding etch MUCH easier and more precise. Mine's  an early version of the 4 inch 'Hold and Fold' (strictly speaking a 'H and F' is made by 'The Small Shop' https://thesmallshop.com  but has become a generic description of the type of tool).  I see that the current 4 inch H and F costs around £50 in the UK.  H and F are made in the USA and the pound/dollar  exchange rate was a great deal better when I bought it.

 

Mek is short for Slater's Mek-Pak  . https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/mekpak.php.  I've  used it instead of something like Plastic Weld for the last 20 years or so (I'm a creature of habit), although I also use Revell Contacta for some things.  I buy a couple  of the 50 ml bottles direct from Slaters every year or so  when supply is getting low.   So far I've had no problem with postage..

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1 hour ago, Chris B said:

Yes that's the sort of tool that makes folding etch MUCH easier and more precise. Mine's  an early version of the 4 inch 'Hold and Fold' (strictly speaking a 'H and F' is made by 'The Small Shop' https://thesmallshop.com  but has become a generic description of the type of tool).  I see that the current 4 inch H and F costs around £50 in the UK.  H and F are made in the USA and the pound/dollar  exchange rate was a great deal better when I bought it.

 

Mek is short for Slater's Mek-Pak  . https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/mekpak.php.  I've  used it instead of something like Plastic Weld for the last 20 years or so (I'm a creature of habit), although I also use Revell Contacta for some things.  I buy a couple  of the 50 ml bottles direct from Slaters every year or so  when supply is getting low.   So far I've had no problem with postage..

Thanks Chris.  I've got the cement as well, also the extra thin Tamiya, but that might not be up to the jb.

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Afraid I've never tried the Tamiya extra thin so can't say how that would work in the way I assemble individual track links.  Being very much a creature of habit,  mek has always worked for me so better the devil you know 

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1 hour ago, Chris B said:

Afraid I've never tried the Tamiya extra thin so can't say how that would work in the way I assemble individual track links.  Being very much a creature of habit,  mek has always worked for me so better the devil you know 

It's like all things I am doing on my builds, trial and error, but I've had some great advice as well.

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4 hours ago, Carius said:

Great progress Andy. I have one of these :popcorn:

Thanks Carius.  Made a right pigs ear of this.  I either have a gap or leave it like this, if it's the latter this is in the bin.

 

49152615706_eb820bbd5b_c.jpg

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Hi Andy,

It seems to have been a "real headache", finishing the track ...
If I am not mistaken, I was not very satisfied with the result, and it would be a shame not to continue with it, because I really like how it takes shape.
There is a small space in the back of the track, that has happened to me sometimes, and you can try to fix it with a "shortened" link, so that it fits exactly, or use some vinyl tracks, and save a lot of work, well, some are really good ...:popcorn:
Cheers Andy.👍

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1 minute ago, FrancisGL said:

Hi Andy,

It seems to have been a "real headache", finishing the track ...
If I am not mistaken, I was not very satisfied with the result, and it would be a shame not to continue with it, because I really like how it takes shape.
There is a small space in the back of the track, that has happened to me sometimes, and you can try to fix it with a "shortened" link, so that it fits exactly, or use some vinyl tracks, and save a lot of work, well, some are really good ...:popcorn:
Cheers Andy.👍

Hi Francis, thanks.  I've made it look a bit better, pulled some of them off before they had set and it seems to fit a bit better.  I've never seen vinyl tracks before, are they available for most builds?

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