Courageous Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 1 hour ago, Pak75 said: Even scale of 1/87 seems to have its limitations. Indeed it does but at least you're giving it go. Happy Christmas to you and yours, see you in the New Year. Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pak75 Posted December 25, 2019 Author Share Posted December 25, 2019 (edited) HI The more i look at my last photo of cannon, the more disappointed i am... It's hard to tell from Tilley's photograph but he may have left off blocks and rear tackle on cannons altogether. I have found on-line some photo etch 1mm eyes from Caldercraft which i have ordered from UK. Will remove Artesania 4mm cannon wheels and substitute for simple smaller wheels from 2mm dowel or rod. Got lots of goodies in my Christmas stocking - thread, parrals, etc. for rigging. Will try to make my own blocks from 2mm x 1mm plastic strip which will be interesting. Currently marooned in a tropical resort in Queensland until New Year, should have brought some tools... how much can a koala bear? Cheers Edited December 25, 2019 by Pak75 Add photo 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhouse Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 3 hours ago, Pak75 said: some photo etch 1mm eyes from Caldercraft Just a thought - would Gaspatch Models single-ended turnbuckles be of use? They do resin or plastic at 1/32 and 1/48. The Bounty is looking splendid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelD Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 Bob's buckles make something similar and they are really good. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmaquette Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 (edited) Hello Pak, I have just come across your thread and have interest in how you are progressing. I am at about the same stage with my build of the Airfix Revenge and have had similar problems with the brittle plastic. I painted the windows on the transom..... I will be interested in your experience of assembly sequence of masts, yards, sails, rigging, deck details, etc. My plan is to start from the bow and work to the stern, working from deck upwards at each mast. I think it will be difficult to detail the deck once all the rigging is done, hence will add as I go. I will also leave painting the hull sides for as long as I can, but probably that will also need to be done soon. I plan to make something to allow the model to be handled without having go put my fingers over the paintwork. Glad to see you are enjoying your build as I am enjoying mine. I have also learnt a lot from the folks on this site, so it has been very worthwhile. Good luck and I will watch with interest, Pat Edited December 25, 2019 by patmaquette 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pak75 Posted December 26, 2019 Author Share Posted December 26, 2019 (edited) Hi Pat, Nigel and Bhouse -thanks for input. Had a look at the Gaspatch fittings but it is difficult to tell what size they are. I hasten to add photo in post 27 is Prof Tilley's model and not mine! Good idea, Pat, to wrap painted hull in bubble wrap. You have a WIP? I have got some ideas about rigging from Frank Mastini's Ship Modelling Simplified which can be found here in parts or as an E-pub. http://www.woodenboats.lt/Knygos public/Modeliavimas/Ship Modeling Simplified Part 3.pdf Some good stuff on this site that many ship modellers of every period might found useful. Mastini suggests an order of assembly on p78. I haven't started rigging yet but am already thinking about it. I read some advice about starting at deck level and working upwards and outwards which makes sense, doing it mast by mast. I have not fixed any of deck fittings in case i need the wriggle room. There are some elements of standing and running rigging that will clearly get in the way of other work, such as cross stays between masts and yard braces so these will have to be done last. I propose to start with yards, fix blocks etc, and bend sails before fixing yards to stepped masts. Running rigging for sail clew and bunt lines will come down to pin rails and i think these will have to be done first. Seems to me shrouds would be done almost last.... The bowsprit in particular seems to get in the way easily and the whole model can end up on the floor in an instant. Cheers Edited December 27, 2019 by Pak75 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pak75 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 (edited) I appreciate that there is a debate between ship models as to whether to show models with or without sails (clothed or nude?) but I am of opinion that a model sailing ship without sails is a bit like building a model Spitfire without an engine. Sails will hide details, yes but i think their incorporation is justified. Will follow variation of methods by JerseyCity Frankie on Nautical Research Guild site https://modelshipworld.com/topic/9359-hmsvictory-by-jerseycity-frankie-–-heller-–-plastic-1100-–-mostly-rigging-and-sails/page/2/ Had a brain wave regarding much-maligned vac formed sails in kit. While these do not look good, the full sails are at least the correct size and shape. It should be possible to stretch sail material over these as a template and then stiffen them. Will let you know how i get on next week. Cheers Edited January 1, 2020 by Pak75 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
europapete Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 There is also Aviattic's fabric decals that we use for the clear doped linen on WW1 aircraft. Mabe these could be applied to the vac sails to represent cloth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 19 hours ago, Pak75 said: I am of opinion that a model sailing ship without sails is a bit like building a model Spitfire without an engine. I don't think that you can use that as an analogy Mr P. Although the Spitfire does have an engine, it is all hidden by engine cowlings. Back to the sails and it's all down to the individual whether they are want furled sails or not. I like putting my boats/ subs onto sea bases, so when I get round to my Bounty, it'll be going on a sea base and it'll be under sail if at sea or furled it at anchor...to be decided. All the best for 2020. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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