Jump to content

1/144 Airliners - how do you do your passenger windows?


Michael51

Recommended Posts

I seek the Forum's views on the best way to close windows up , obtain a smooth surface and then use decal windows.

 

There appear to be two broad options cited on the interweb:

 

1. fill them in with filler from the outside and sand

or

2. mask the outside of the fuselage and fill the spaces from the inside with a five minutes epoxy

 

The latter seems preferable but being new to the airline business, any advice would be appreciated,

 

Michael

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Michael51 said:

I seek the Forum's views on the best way to close windows up , obtain a smooth surface and then use decal windows.

 

There appear to be two broad options cited on the interweb:

 

1. fill them in with filler from the outside and sand

or

2. mask the outside of the fuselage and fill the spaces from the inside with a five minutes epoxy

 

The latter seems preferable but being new to the airline business, any advice would be appreciated,

 

Michael

 

 

Hi Michael,

Yes either method will work equally well. You could also fit the window glazing strips in place then fill and sand. You will have to use this method for the windscreen anyway.

Use of Milliput or a 5 minute epoxy will ensure the filler doesn't shrink and leave dimples where the windows were!

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Ian

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Eric Mc said:

I tend to fit the window as supplied in the kit, blend and sand them to fit, and paint over them and use decals.

Hi Eric,

Thank you for your advice.

 

Your message arrived as I was typing the reply to Ian.

 

What a marvelous forum this is,

 

Regards,

 

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Michael

 

Just a few comments to add to Ian's sound advice. 

 

If the kit comes with glazing strips it makes sense to use them - if nothing else it economises on filler. I suggest you use superglue to fix the glazing rather than plastic cement - the edges of the window openings can be quite thin and you don't want solvent eating away at the plastic under the paint. For the same reason I would always use Milliput or another epoxy filler even if I have used the glazing strips. Solvent based filler (Green Stuff. Revell Plasto etc) is best kept away from window openings.

 

If the kit doesn't have glazing (most Revell kits don't) I would use a thin "sausage" of Milliput or equivalent applied from the inside and pushed through the window openings. You can use a wet finger to smooth it down until it is just proud of the outer surface then sand it flush once it's set. I usually score the inside of the fuselage to give the Milliput a "key". 

 

Remember that you are going to have to locate your window decals after you have painted the model. I use a pin or a tiny twist drill to mark the front and rear windows in each cabin and the emergency exit(s). These marks show me where the decals go but become almost invisible once the decals are in place.

 

Hope that's some help.

 

Dave G

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I don't know if this would work in 1/144 scale, but when I built the Academy 1/72 Boeing Stratocruiser, I applied tape to the insides of the fuselages, then applied black paint into the window cavities. Afterward, I applied Krystal Klear into the cavities to fill them then let that dry. The affect is a clearer window than you typically get with the clear plastic strips and you get a better appearance of depth as well. Mind you, this works when the passenger window area isn't going to be striped over, although I suppose you could pre-paint the stripe and then create the windows. I bring it up because some modelers don't like painted on or decal passenger windows. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is very helpful advice and thank you.

 

What I have discovered is that I really like those decalled windows, especially the Authentic Airliner types: they're great, especially at 1/144 scale,

 

Michael

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I rarely build airliners but, on the rare occasion that I do, I usually fill in the windows ( if glazing strips are provided, I use them).

Then I putty over  and sand smooth.

In such a small scale as 1/144, I think decal windows are quite acceptable and, I prefer this option.

I will also use decals for the windscreens if provided.

 

Allan

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, armored76 said:

@SkodadriverMay I ask which of the several types you are using? My guess would be the yellow+grey but better be sure before ordering the wrong one :) Thank you!

The yellow-grey will work fine but personally I always use the Superfine white. It is a bit finer than the yellow-grey and I find it easier to feather when I'm filling a seam or something like that. It's purely a matter of personal choice.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Jet777 said:

I recently built the Tu-144 and a 787. I used PVA glue. Put the PVA into the empty window hole and let it dry. Looks great.

That's an old trick and a good one except for one point. The majority of modern airliners have a noticeable silver surround around the cabin windows. I have yet to find any way of replicating that apart from using decals. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Jet777 said:

I recently built the Tu-144 and a 787. I used PVA glue. Put the PVA into the empty window hole and let it dry. Looks great.

:post1: glad to have another airliner builder on board.

Now where were we, ah yes, photos of the 787 and Tu-144 are needed. I for one would like to see them. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Skodadriver said:

That's an old trick and a good one except for one point. The majority of modern airliners have a noticeable silver surround around the cabin windows. I have yet to find any way of replicating that apart from using decals. 

ATP used to produce decal sets depicting the metal surrounds of specific types such as the 707 and DC-8. In theory, they could be used in conjunction with Crystal Clear filled window apertures.

 

However, I also find straightforward window decals work best in 1/144.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Eric Mc said:

ATP used to produce decal sets depicting the metal surrounds of specific types such as the 707 and DC-8. In theory, they could be used in conjunction with Crystal Clear filled window apertures.

 

However, I also find straightforward window decals work best in 1/144.

Similar window frame decals are included in quite a few Revell kits. Without searching my stash I'm sure that the A319 and the Embraer E190 have them. I've seen it suggested that you can just put the frame decals over the window apertures and the film will replicate the glazing. It's not an idea that appeals to me and I've never tried it but it does prove my point that the only way to do the silver frames is to use decals. 

 

It's up to each individual modeller how he/she finishes a model but personally I'll stay with window decals, if possible the "photo real" variety from Authentic Airliners.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Skodadriver said:

Similar window frame decals are included in quite a few Revell kits. Without searching my stash I'm sure that the A319 and the Embraer E190 have them. I've seen it suggested that you can just put the frame decals over the window apertures and the film will replicate the glazing. It's not an idea that appeals to me and I've never tried it but it does prove my point that the only way to do the silver frames is to use decals. 

 

It's up to each individual modeller how he/she finishes a model but personally I'll stay with window decals, if possible the "photo real" variety from Authentic Airliners.

I've done this successfully with both plain clear decal where there's no window surround, and with kit silver surround decals. With these it's best to check spacing, and even if correct only apply short strips in case the decal stretches during application. The final finish gives a flat smooth window flush with the fuselage outer skin, unlike krystal klear etc which can dry with a recessed dimpled look if you're not careful. The finished windows are a little fragile if not handled with care, but are easily repairable by trimming the broken decal from the hole and reglazing with a small section of plain decal film. It's quick and easy to do with better, more consistent results than using Krystal Klear, but isonly really suitable for use with the smaller cabin windows in the smaller scales.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...