MigModeller Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 (edited) Hi all Recommendations welcome on the two finishes on interwar biplanes, notably polished metal and silver dope. Thanks in anticipation. Oh I have both types of airbrush, gravity feed and external mix Edited November 10, 2019 by MigModeller fedeing grey matter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWM Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) Silever dope: mixed humbrol 191 (~75%) with white 34 (~25%) (EDIT: less of white then I wrote here) Polished metal: Humbrol 191 Edited November 20, 2019 by JWM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossm Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 I've only built one so far, a matchbox Fury. I used Tamiya Flat Aluminium and metal foil - but my source of that was a Kit Kat wrapper and they no longer wrap those in foil. I got a very good polished aluminium effect once with Alclad so I'll probably try that on my next biplane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putty Animal Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 Mr Hobby's Mr Metal Color "Alminume" gives a very nice fine-grained rendition of 1930's aluminium dope if you add just a few drops of white to it. It's my go to for silver winged biplanes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MigModeller Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Thanks JWM But reading the reviews on Amazon, suggest it is not very mirror shiny. What about Hannants enamels? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Ive just gotten an Airfix Bristol Bulldog in the white box. Not sure what era of Airfix it is, but I'm looking to do a 29 Squadron Bulldog. I will follow this thread to get tips to do the plane correct. Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MigModeller Posted November 12, 2019 Author Share Posted November 12, 2019 5 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Ive just gotten an Airfix Bristol Bulldog in the white box. Not sure what era of Airfix it is, but I'm looking to do a 29 Squadron Bulldog. I will follow this thread to get tips to do the plane correct. Dennis Hi Dennis Do you intend to correct the propellor as well? https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/KORAD72160 There was an article in Airfix Model World about it some time ago Good luck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 15 minutes ago, MigModeller said: Hi Dennis Do you intend to correct the propellor as well? https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/KORAD72160 There was an article in Airfix Model World about it some time ago Good luck Hmmm ... Wasn't aware it needed correcting ? If i can get a chance to order the prop yes. If not then maybe no. Its a build that will be done just not quite sure when ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 IIRC, Dennis, the kit prop was molded with the pitch the wrong way around, so wrong rotation for the Bulldog, but hopefully somebody can confirm, as it was so long ago, I'm kinda fuzzy on this little detail....too much modeling trivia for this old Mk 1a brain/memory bank to retain! (Maybe a reworked Watts Gladiator/Hurricane/Spitfire prop might work?) @Graham Boak will know, I betcha! Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 21 minutes ago, 72modeler said: IIRC, Dennis, the kit prop was molded with the pitch the wrong way around, so wrong rotation for the Bulldog, but hopefully somebody can confirm, as it was so long ago, I'm kinda fuzzy on this little detail....too much modeling trivia for this old Mk 1a brain/memory bank to retain! (Maybe a reworked Watts Gladiator/Hurricane/Spitfire prop might work?) @Graham Boak will know, I betcha! Mike The prop on my Bulldog seems to be moulded properly. when compared to this photo: Chris 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 3 minutes ago, dogsbody said: The prop on my Bulldog seems to be moulded properly. I need to dig mine out and see if it is like yours. Thanks for the photo i can use that as a guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossm Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 7 minutes ago, dogsbody said: The prop on my Bulldog seems to be moulded properly. when compared to this photo: Chris I'm not convinced that is a Bulldog with those V struts angled out - more Grebe/Gamecock ??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Boak Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) But still a Bristol engine so should still go the same way round? Back to the references... Looking in Putnam's Bristol Aircraft, I'd say the kit is right. Looking in Putnam's Gloster Aircraft, those V-struts appear on an experimental Gamecock used to test the Hele-Shaw propeller, but the photo of that shows a different nose. The exhausts suggest a Gamecock II. Added after the following post: The Grebe had a different engine but the prop went the same way round. Edited November 12, 2019 by Graham Boak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malpaso Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 3 minutes ago, rossm said: I'm not convinced that is a Bulldog with those V struts angled out - more Grebe/Gamecock ??? I was of the same idea, but prop depends on handedness of the engine - Grebe had AS engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinK Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 It's not the direction of rotation that's the problem with the Airfix Bulldog prop, it's that the blade aerofoil section is the wrong way round: the forward-facing surface is concave rather than convex, as can be seen in the photo in post #10. It can be fixed by filling the forward face and hollowing the rear face, with the observation that it's a fiddly job with a fair chance of breaking the prop. It can also be ignored, but it's one of those things that, once seen, will draw the eye every time... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 23 minutes ago, Graham Boak said: But still a Bristol engine so should still go the same way round? Back to the references... Looking in Putnam's Bristol Aircraft, I'd say the kit is right. Looking in Putnam's Gloster Aircraft, those V-struts appear on an experimental Gamecock used to test the Hele-Shaw propeller, but the photo of that shows a different nose. The exhausts suggest a Gamecock II. Added after the following post: The Grebe had a different engine but the prop went the same way round. Thanks, Graham, for the correction- I was afraid I might be wrong. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 More Bulldogs: Sorry about that first picture I posted. Got the wrong one. This is a Bulldog. https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205182160 Chris 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 As for the Airfix Bulldog prop, I now see what KevinK is talking about. Chris 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 8 minutes ago, dogsbody said: As for the Airfix Bulldog prop, I now see what KevinK is talking about. Yes! I KNEW I had read somewhere there was something wrong with the Airfix prop- thank you so much for the photos and clarification, Chris! Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Puff Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Take it from one who's tried - correcting the kit prop is a pain, and fraught with risk. The Kora option is a LOT easier, and much less grief. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWM Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 13 hours ago, KevinK said: It can be fixed by filling the forward face and hollowing the rear face, with the observation that it's a fiddly job with a fair chance of breaking the prop. There is another risk with filling front surface - with time the normal putty drying all the time shrank, so with time it will bound prop. It works (eveporates thinner) for years - I know it from experience, it happend to me. So you have to use chemical fixed putty (resin) for this filling, it is stable after fixation. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWM Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 10 hours ago, 72modeler said: Yes! I KNEW I had read somewhere there was something wrong with the Airfix prop- thank you so much for the photos and clarification, Chris! BTW - The same failure is in Airfix Ford Trimotor! I replaced in my Trimotor by copying and resin casting of Northrop Gamma props by Williams Bros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 (edited) On 11/10/2019 at 11:01 PM, MigModeller said: Recommendations welcome on the two finishes on interwar biplanes, notably polished metal and silver dope. Hi Mig, I have used Tamiya's TS-17 for silver dope in the past quite a bit and it gives an excellent rendition of the finish. TS-17 is a spray can paint and idiot-proof to use. It cures rock hard and is highly durable. For polished metal cowlings and the like the easiest I used was on my Fury (which is still on the go) and was an automotive chrome paint, the make of which escapes me now. This was also a rattle can paint and was a doddle to use and gives a excellent shiny, sheet metal finish. Here's the Fury as she stands. The decals weren't made for this kit so there's a lot of touching up to do which is why it's stalled a bit, although the dope and polished metal finishes will give you a good idea of how it's turned out. HTH, Tim Edited November 13, 2019 by Smithy Typo 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MigModeller Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 Thanks Smithy for pics and returning to theme of thread. Have you any tips for making the Revell Fury? It looks grand so far. I must admit to laziness into staying with Modeldecal's 1 squadron markings. Matchbox produced some questionable kits, but excelled themselves now and again and this was such a winner. If you remember which automotive chrome paint you used, do let us know because you have solved the problem of getting two distinctive finishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossm Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 Humbrol also do a chrome silver aerosol which I have seen looking shiny on someone else's model so bought a can for myself but haven't used it yet. https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/191-chrome-silver-metallic-150ml-acrylic-spray-paint.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now