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Replicating polished metal on 1930s biplanes?


MigModeller

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Hi all

 

Recommendations welcome on  the two finishes on interwar biplanes, notably polished metal and silver dope.

 

Thanks in anticipation.

 

Oh I have both types of airbrush, gravity feed and external mix

Edited by MigModeller
fedeing grey matter
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Silever dope:  mixed humbrol 191 (~75%) with white 34 (~25%) (EDIT: less of white then I wrote here)

Polished metal: Humbrol 191

Edited by JWM
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I've only built one so far, a matchbox Fury. I used Tamiya Flat Aluminium and metal foil - but my source of that was a Kit Kat wrapper and they no longer wrap those in foil. I got a very good polished aluminium effect once with Alclad so I'll probably try that on my next biplane.

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5 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Ive just gotten an Airfix Bristol Bulldog in the white box. Not sure what era of Airfix it is, but I'm looking to do a 29 Squadron Bulldog. I will follow this thread to get tips to do the plane correct. 
 

Dennis

Hi Dennis

Do you intend to correct the propellor as well?

 

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/KORAD72160

 

There was an article in Airfix Model World about it some time ago

 

Good luck

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15 minutes ago, MigModeller said:

Hi Dennis

Do you intend to correct the propellor as well?

 

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/KORAD72160

 

There was an article in Airfix Model World about it some time ago

 

Good luck

Hmmm ... Wasn't aware it needed correcting ? If i can get a chance to order the prop yes. If not then maybe no. Its a build that will be done just not quite sure when ? 

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IIRC, Dennis, the kit prop was molded with the pitch the wrong way around, so wrong rotation for the Bulldog, but hopefully somebody can confirm, as it was so long ago, I'm kinda fuzzy on this little detail....too  much modeling trivia for this old Mk 1a brain/memory bank to retain! (Maybe a reworked Watts Gladiator/Hurricane/Spitfire prop might work?) @Graham Boak will know, I betcha!

Mike

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21 minutes ago, 72modeler said:

IIRC, Dennis, the kit prop was molded with the pitch the wrong way around, so wrong rotation for the Bulldog, but hopefully somebody can confirm, as it was so long ago, I'm kinda fuzzy on this little detail....too  much modeling trivia for this old Mk 1a brain/memory bank to retain! (Maybe a reworked Watts Gladiator/Hurricane/Spitfire prop might work?) @Graham Boak will know, I betcha!

Mike

 

The prop on my Bulldog seems to be moulded properly.

 

49055770642_8121ded5ca_c.jpg

 

 

when compared to this photo:

 

49055583051_b9db78d917_o.jpg

 

 

 

Chris

 

 

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7 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

 

The prop on my Bulldog seems to be moulded properly.

 

 

 

 

when compared to this photo:

 

49055583051_b9db78d917_o.jpg

 

 

 

Chris

 

 

I'm not convinced that is a Bulldog with those V struts angled out - more Grebe/Gamecock ???

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But still a Bristol engine so should still go the same way round?  Back to  the references...  Looking in Putnam's Bristol Aircraft, I'd say the kit is right.

 

Looking in Putnam's Gloster Aircraft, those V-struts appear on an experimental Gamecock used to test the Hele-Shaw propeller, but the photo of that shows a different nose.   The exhausts suggest a Gamecock II.  

 

Added after the following post:  The Grebe had a different engine but the prop went the same way round.

Edited by Graham Boak
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3 minutes ago, rossm said:

I'm not convinced that is a Bulldog with those V struts angled out - more Grebe/Gamecock ???

I was of the same idea, but prop depends on handedness of the engine - Grebe had AS engine

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It's not the direction of rotation that's the problem with the Airfix Bulldog prop, it's that the blade aerofoil section is the wrong way round: the forward-facing surface is concave rather than convex, as can be seen in the photo in post #10.

 

It can be fixed by filling the forward face and hollowing the rear face, with the observation that it's a fiddly job with a fair chance of breaking the prop.

 

It can also be ignored, but it's one of those things that, once seen, will draw the eye every time...

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23 minutes ago, Graham Boak said:

But still a Bristol engine so should still go the same way round?  Back to  the references...  Looking in Putnam's Bristol Aircraft, I'd say the kit is right.

 

Looking in Putnam's Gloster Aircraft, those V-struts appear on an experimental Gamecock used to test the Hele-Shaw propeller, but the photo of that shows a different nose.   The exhausts suggest a Gamecock II.  

 

Added after the following post:  The Grebe had a different engine but the prop went the same way round.

Thanks, Graham, for the correction- I was afraid I might be wrong. 

Mike

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8 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

As for the Airfix Bulldog prop, I now see what KevinK is talking about.

Yes! I KNEW I had read somewhere there was something wrong with the Airfix prop- thank you so much for the photos and clarification, Chris!

Mike

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13 hours ago, KevinK said:

It can be fixed by filling the forward face and hollowing the rear face, with the observation that it's a fiddly job with a fair chance of breaking the prop.

 

There is another risk with filling front surface - with time the normal putty drying all  the time shrank, so with time  it will bound prop. It works (eveporates thinner) for years - I know it from experience,  it happend to me.  So you have to use chemical fixed putty (resin) for this filling, it is stable after fixation.

 

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10 hours ago, 72modeler said:

Yes! I KNEW I had read somewhere there was something wrong with the Airfix prop- thank you so much for the photos and clarification, Chris!

BTW - The same failure is in Airfix Ford Trimotor! I replaced in my Trimotor by copying and resin casting of Northrop Gamma props by Williams Bros.

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On 11/10/2019 at 11:01 PM, MigModeller said:

Recommendations welcome on  the two finishes on interwar biplanes, notably polished metal and silver dope.

 

Hi Mig,

 

I have used Tamiya's TS-17 for silver dope in the past quite a bit and it gives an excellent rendition of the finish. TS-17 is a spray can paint and idiot-proof to use. It cures rock hard and is highly durable. For polished metal cowlings and the like the easiest I used was on my Fury (which is still on the go) and was an automotive chrome paint, the make of which escapes me now. This was also a rattle can paint and was a doddle to use and gives a excellent shiny, sheet metal finish.

 

Here's the Fury as she stands. The decals weren't made for this kit so there's a lot of touching up to do which is why it's stalled a bit, although the dope and polished metal finishes will give you a good idea of how it's turned out.

 

HTH,

 

Tim

 

cCgA1h5.jpg

 

MtNf6ME.jpg

 

 

Edited by Smithy
Typo
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Thanks Smithy for pics and returning to theme of thread.

 

Have you any tips for making the Revell Fury?  It looks grand so far.  I must admit to laziness into staying with Modeldecal's 1 squadron markings.

Matchbox produced some questionable kits, but excelled themselves now and again and this was such a winner.

 

If you remember which  automotive chrome paint you used, do let us know because you have solved the problem of getting two distinctive finishes.

 

 

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