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Walter

looking for ideas on how to make the base for the fug 217j antennae

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I'm looking to the best job I can at replicating these antenna but I haven't got any ideas on how to recreate the base. I already have the wire and the pe base, but rather than do what everyone else does (which is stick the wire or rod to the pe) I wanted to test my skills. One idea just come to mind as I type is to dip the end of the wire in pva glue and build up the layers after each dip has dried. I don't think I will need to dip it more than twice but I'll see what happens.

 

What ideas to you have? Oh this is 1/72 scale!

 

48994324698_c9266132d0_b.jpg

 

Edited by Walter

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If you manage these, Walter, we will come visit you at the Home for Criminally Insane Modellers! :drunk: I would think using the PVA method would work, but would be very hard to get all of the faired bases the same....good luck, though! It looks like the smaller diameter tips to each aerial rod would be pretty hard, too. Is that an external fuel tank I see under the wing?

Mike

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What about stretching some small sprue to get that cone shaped base, then drilling small holes to glue the wire in. The bottom of the base could be sanded flat to sit on the wing.

 

 

 

Chris

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11 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

What about stretching some small sprue to get that cone shaped base, then drilling small holes to glue the wire in. The bottom of the base could be sanded flat to sit on the wing.

Trying to stretch sprue to get that many tiny matching cones would be like herding cats. I'd suggest stretching sprue until you get ONE that looks right, then casting it in resin. If you have a motor tool, you can also chuck some sprue in it and use files/sandpaper to shape it to create your master. The antenna itself could be made from small diameter hypodermic tubing with a nylon brush bristle for the extreme tip. A disc from sheet plastic could serve as the base.

 

Or maybe the good folks at Master Models will see this and produce the entire antenna in lathe-turned brass.

Edited by Space Ranger

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1/72. Okaayy..

There are many other ways to go about this, but here's my suggestion;

Get some mini tubing (eg Albion Alloys) like .3mm outer / .1mm inner diameter.
Insert some thinly stretched sprue or .1mm fishing wire to get the thin tips.
Add PVA/Mr Surfacer/CA glue to create the wider base.

Edit; Looks like Space Ranger came up with a similar idea a bit earlier while my reply window was still open. I think you'll get the idea

Edited by Luka
similar suggestion

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Similar to Luka's idea with slide-fit brass or aluminum tubing.   The antenna section would be 0.1mm and fit into 0.3mm sleeve.  The base would have to be made of 0.5mm  followed by 0.7mm.   You would have to add some liquid putty to eliminate the step created by the different diameter, and finish off with a sanding stick to get the streamlined tapered look. 

 

Not drawn to scale, but in the diagram below, yellow represents putty, while red lines show angle of sanding;

7Hlp6g5.jpg

 

 

regards,

Jack

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@JackG's idea is similar to things I've done. A couple seconds with each in your moto tool as suggested by @Space Ranger would finish them up nicely. Do run the tool at the slowest possible speed.

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thanks for the suggestions, i don't have a mto tool or resin I'm not as advanced as you guys. I do like JackG's idea will experiment, it really shouldn't take too long as the scale is so small so it virtually a pin head size for the base of the antenna, the trick will be making them look the same as I have 17 to make and I'm doing 2 planes. I guess I can chalk this down to my first scrach build, if it works that is!

 

Interesting in my search for a ready made solution the best kit is made by AML for a complete assembly of the antenna but they only make it for 1/32.

Edited by Walter

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Hallo!

 

You could try to stretch plastic tube (Q-tip or somesuch) over a metal needle? The plastic shrinks around hard shape which you can pull out afterwards. Insert thin constant diameter wire through later.

I have made pitot tubes that way (leaving the metal insert in place, though). No idea if this would work. At least the core needle would need tip curved the other way round than from the factory.

 

Cheers,
Kari

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I suggest a thin metallic wire as a core, thickened by paint or glue  where necessary. The base could be made by a very short ending ring of tube or syringe needle, with some white glue to make the cone. 

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What about stretching spruce and using the end nearest the outstretched piece where it begins to thicken again ( hope my explanation is undstandable).

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5 hours ago, Massimo Tessitori said:

I suggest a thin metallic wire as a core, thickened by paint or glue  where necessary. The base could be made by a very short ending ring of tube or syringe needle, with some white glue to make the cone. 

Massimo I'm trying this out with paint,  this may be the best option. I've got to restrain myself from over painting the wires trying to keep it to scale😜. I then have to measure correctly as there are 4 different lengths and then attach it to the pe base.

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10 hours ago, mackem01 said:

What about stretching spruce and using the end nearest the outstretched piece where it begins to thicken again ( hope my explanation is undstandable).

 

That's what I said in Post #3.

 

 

Chris

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4 hours ago, dogsbody said:

 

That's what I said in Post #3.

 

 

Chris

Agreed to a point Chris. I was proposing the use of sprue only though, but both coming at it from the same angle.

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35 minutes ago, mackem01 said:

Agreed to a point Chris. I was proposing the use of sprue only though, but both coming at it from the same angle.

 

Oh! I see. Yeah, that might do it, too.

 

 

 

Chris

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this is my attempt so far black is paint and white part is putty...hmm! The lengths needed will vary between 4.5mm and 6.5mm approximately.

 

49026731233_42dae03eca_b.jpg

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