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Saunders Roe SR-177 by Freight Dog


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I have sprayed a coat of Vallejo Surface Primer on there was a slight problem I overdid it on a couple of spots and ended up with a couple of small runs, I still cant get the hang of the airbrush. It didnt help that the primer is almost exactly the same colour when wet as the resin so its hard to see where I have sprayed.

 

I have ordered 4 x Eduard 1/72 AIM-9J Sidewinders which I will stick 2 on the wingtips and 2 under the wings outboard of the tanks I will have to make racks for them out of spare plasticard. I am not going to use the Red Tops this is going to be a dog fighter I just need to make or buy some ADEN cannon pods maybe from a Harrier or Hawk kit. I am not using the rocket motor so I have blanked it off and extended the rear fuselage above the jet pipe slightly.

 

I have decided on my paint scheme its going to be dark green topside with a dull aluminium underside and use 92 Sqdn markings though I was very tempted by a Luftwaffe Starfighter scheme. I am enjoying whatiffery no one can tell me I have missed a bit 😀

 

49042456678_04917750e8_c.jpgIMG_20191110_132819484 by Stuart, on Flickr

 

49042454033_f2714b75a1_c.jpgIMG_20191110_132800431 by Stuart, on Flickr

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3 hours ago, AltcarBoB said:

I still cant get the hang of the airbrush. It didnt help that the primer is almost exactly the same colour when wet as the resin so its hard to see where I have sprayed.

Next time add a few drops of color to the primer like black. It should change the tone enough to help see it. 

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3 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Next time add a few drops of color to the primer like black. It should change the tone enough to help see it. 

Thanks for the tip. Like all the best tips so simple even an idiot could have thought of it, one day I aspire to be an idiot but I keep failing the exam.

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Following Corsairfoxuncles    suggestion I am going to paint the SR177 in a copy of 92 squadrons Lightning colours when based at Gutersloh in the mid 70s. Can anyone tell me the paint codes. I would match it by eye but the photos I have seen vary so much from a light bronze green to a dark green with a bluish tint. Colour film wasnt brilliant in those days unless it was transparencies stored at low temperature and even then it depended if it was Kodachrome, Agfacolour or fujicolor as to what shades you got.

 

I am assuming unless information to the contrary its just standard RAF Dark Green Tamiya XF-81 or Vallejo 71.324 for the topsides and for the undersides Vallejo Dark Silver 71.053 and the nearest Tamiya coour I can find XF-56 Metallic Grey.

 

 

 

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https://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/lightning/profiles.php

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54 minutes ago, AltcarBoB said:

Following Corsairfoxuncles    suggestion I am going to paint the SR177 in a copy of 92 squadrons Lightning colours when based at Gutersloh in the mid 70s. Can anyone tell me the paint codes. I would match it by eye but the photos I have seen vary so much from a light bronze green to a dark green with a bluish tint. Colour film wasnt brilliant in those days unless it was transparencies stored at low temperature and even then it depended if it was Kodachrome, Agfacolour or fujicolor as to what shades you got.

 

I am assuming unless information to the contrary its just standard RAF Dark Green Tamiya XF-81 or Vallejo 71.324 for the topsides and for the undersides Vallejo Dark Silver 71.053 and the nearest Tamiya coour I can find XF-56 Metallic Grey.

 

 

 

spacer.png

 

https://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/lightning/profiles.php

From various sources that I have, the Green is standard RAF upper camouflage Dark Green. The changes in colour that you have seen can be due to the angle of the light and the time of day which can cause the paint appear different. It's all to do with difraction and wavelengths which I don't know enough about to explain it properly.

Hope this helps

Gondor

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I have added wing pylons for the Sidewinders and the drop tanks plus Canards all made from scrap plasticard, crude but I am learning a lot. I have also added a pair of ADEN cannon pods from Plava models but I am not sure about them I didnt realise how big the pods are and how small the SR177 is. Also to clear the undercarriage doors I had to mount them further forward than I wanted I am coming to the conclusion I might have boobed.

 

I cant prevaricate anymore its come to the point of painting always my weakest point. I am really not happy to use the H&S airbrush I bought I just can not get the hang of it I get splotches and uneven patches I have run out of A4 printer paper doing test runs so I think its back to the old fashioned brushes.

 

49075003081_5076917278_c.jpgIMG_20191116_130821991[1] by Stuart, on Flickr

49074465688_d5b3d86f56_c.jpgIMG_20191116_130802679[1] by Stuart, on Flickr

49074485998_18883f4936_c.jpgIMG_20191116_172922408 by Stuart, on Flickr

49075221302_fc57dfe18c_c.jpgIMG_20191116_130915022 by Stuart, on Flickr

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1 hour ago, AltcarBoB said:

I am really not happy to use the H&S airbrush I bought I just can not get the hang of it I get splotches and uneven patches I have run out of A4 printer paper doing test runs so I think its back to the old fashioned brushes.

Just do what works for you - brushing can give a good finish too. I’m just getting to grips with my first airbrush and it’s definitely a steep learning curve.

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33 minutes ago, Back in the Saddle said:

Just do what works for you - brushing can give a good finish too. I’m just getting to grips with my first airbrush and it’s definitely a steep learning curve.

So far it's been a vertical learning curve. So vertical it's been like walking into a brick wall

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1 minute ago, neil5208 said:

Why dont you do a single go for a single cannon on the centre line, then it could be further back similiar to the hawk

I did think of using one pod. I haven't painted the underside yet so it's still an option.

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13 minutes ago, AltcarBoB said:

So far it's been a vertical learning curve. So vertical it's been like walking into a brick wall

I know what you mean. I’ve been using an airbrush for about a year...my wife bought it for me last Christmas. (I managed to pursuade her to buy me a simple low cost one until I got the hang of it). I’m getting to grips with it now but it’s taken all this time. It’s worth persevering with! I know this goes against perceived wisdom, but why not get hold of a cheap single-action one and practice with that, then move on to your H & S as you get used to it?

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Well I have just put another well thinned coat of green on and I think I might have panicked unnecessarily. For the 2nd coat I put a couple of drops of Winsor & Newton acrylic flow improver into the thinning water and used a No8 flat brush the largest I have. A couple more thin coats tonight and I might have cracked it. I think the lesson is when painting on thin coats get it on quick with a big brush and dont overload the brush.

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1 hour ago, AltcarBoB said:

So far it's been a vertical learning curve. So vertical it's been like walking into a brick wall

I know what you mean. I’ve just used ‘clean spirit’ instead of ‘white spirit’ to thin my enamel on the Vulcan... I don’t think I’ve done any lasting damage (!) but I will leave it a few days for the solvent to flash off completely.

 

It’s not the first time I’ve picked up the wrong spirit from the shelf - the bottles are very similar. TBH, I bought the clean spirit in error, thinking it was white spirit - it seems I have history with this particular mistake!😕

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7 minutes ago, Back in the Saddle said:

It’s not the first time I’ve picked up the wrong spirit from the shelf - the bottles are very similar. TBH, I bought the clean spirit in error, thinking it was white spirit - it seems I have history with this particular mistake!😕

Color code the bottle/cap red for danger or super strong, and yellow for standard thinner or cleaner ? 

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Just now, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Color code the bottle/cap red for danger or super strong, and yellow for standard thinner or cleaner ? 

The simple ideas are the best ones - I’ll do that tomorrow, should prevent any more silly mistakes...👍

 

Apart from taking ages to harden, I don’t think it’s done any harm. It just means I’ll have to leave it a few days before resuming work on it.

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38 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Color code the bottle/cap red for danger or super strong, and yellow for standard thinner or cleaner ? 

You could also take a quick mouthfull of each to test. If you spend the next 5 hours vomiting its clean spirit, if the top of your head comes off its white spirit.

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This is 3 coats of Tamiya XF81. Thinned 2.5 paint to 1 distilled water containing 10% Winsor & Newton Acrylic flow improver, its come up better than I thought.  Theres a few spots that need buffing with 2500 grit and then a last coat to finish.

 

49075564818_9a918f9d3f_c.jpgIMG_20191116_234242259 by Stuart, on Flickr

Edited by AltcarBoB
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15 hours ago, neil5208 said:

Why dont you do a single go for a single cannon on the centre line, then it could be further back similiar to the hawk

I tried to remove the cannon pods but I remembered I fixed them on with epoxy they're not moving.

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Very good finish for brush work. I’m on my first airbrush (technically my second as I tried using one 40 odd years ago but failed  abysmally) and it going ok, I did read a few guide books and I think that made all the difference this time out.

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Started to paint the undersides and its noticeable how the Tamiya XF82 Sea Grey doesnt seem to flow as easily as the XF81 Dark Green even though I very carefully mixed the same thinner ratio. The XF81 went on very smoothly and lay down flat with very little obvious brush marking the XF82 seems gloopier yet has less pigment. Mind you I applied the green when it was bucketing down and the huidity must have been quite high today its been a good frost and the humidity is very low, that could make a difference.

 

I am concentrating on the wings, canards and tail at the moment I will do the fuselage in a few days when the wings have hardened off.

 

49089317516_0fb5450a35_c.jpgIMG_20191119_102444757 by Stuart, on Flickr

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I have got the underside painted and started on the little tiny touch ups you always miss when painting.

 

I will be slapping on the transfers soon and I was wondering do I need to give the whole plane a coat of gloss Humbrol Clear or just the areas where the transfers will go and dull coat the whole plane after.

 

49112114457_2ee674cf4b_c.jpgIMG_20191123_200444825 by Stuart, on Flickr

49112117012_2015b83832_c.jpgIMG_20191123_200603670 by Stuart, on Flickr

49111410758_f39c0d893a_c.jpgIMG_20191123_200549607 by Stuart, on Flickr

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